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About Hawk454

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  1. The comparison that he supplied is between an X1800 GTO with 12 pipelines and X1800 XT with 16 pipelines. They use the same exact chip. The clock rate is gimped on the X1800 GTO slightly on the core but heavily on the memory. There should be a gap of atleast 700. Did you start this video card with a fresh install and format of the harddrive? Did you have an Nvidia card previous? Are you using supplied video card drivers or downloaded drivers? Did you install the full ATI Control suite or just the video card driver? Do you have the latest Microsoft.NET Framework? Do you have the latest Windows XP sp2? Or Win2k SP4 if you use that. Here is ATI's Catalyst 6.4 Windows XP - Driver Download: https://support.ati.com/ics/support/KBAnswe...?questionID=640 Since he has not searched for a 3dmark05 comparison still I figured I would search out a maximum posting. Here is a registered 3dmark05 score with an opty and X1800 XT both overclocked heavily hitting 11,215. http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm05=1660368
  2. Very good posts on testing and verifying your power supply. I highly recommend connecting a fan or two for a load condition as I have read about some power supplies have circuit protections for no load operation. If the PSU checks good then begin checking connections to the motherboard. Here are some good threads to follow for initial builds: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread...t=initial+build http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29190
  3. There are a few threads about the Scythe Ninja leaving a melted pad on the back of the motherboard and ripping some traces off if it is removed after being in use for some time. I would go Thermalright, Artic Cooling, Cooler Master, or Thermaltake before that specific cooler no matter the good reviews. Proprietary backplates supplied with some coolers are bad in my mind. http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread...ht=scythe+ninja If those flashy LED fans are cheap in price keep 'em else ditch them for quality quiet fans. I see you have changed ram sticks to something more useful (good job). The power supply is definitely in question but if you are needing a European supplier than I understand the issue. The Hiper brand has seen some bad reviews and some good reviews so perhaps a coin toss... Great choice on video card. I noticed you eliminated the WD raptor and opted for two raid only drives. Are you planning on raid 0 for performance or a slower setup for data integrity? If gaming then the raid 0 is your only choice. Raid setups can be tough to conduct initial installs with. I like your setup overall but would search some about that CPU coolers.
  4. Funny troubleshooting. If it is stable in the bios than how could it be a DFI issue? Heh. Silly, check your software.
  5. Both systems have similar setup. The CPU and system ram is not going to be a major factor in 3dmark tests since they are GPU tests. The video cards are both using the same chip so similar results should be expected. X1800 GTO = X1800 XT
  6. He got to the bios so the power supply worked. There seems to be a setting that is being adjusted by the user that is causing a black screen. Given the data that is. Are you sure you have all the power connections plugged into the board? Are you sure you have one stick of ram, one harddrive, one cd drive, and no sound card installed? What options are you setting when you go to the bios? Does the video card have a power connector that is not installed? Is the jumpers on the motherboard in the default positions? SLI? Double check the jumpers and case LED/POWER/RESET switches and CMOS reset jumper. Post details of what is occurring so we can give proper help. If you get to the bios, go to the temperature monitoring screen and sit there for some time. Monitor your temps to make sure things are seated correctly. Problems like this can be helpful if you build the computer without a case so you can make visual checks easier.
  7. Never seen nor heard of a sticker on the CPU. Sounds like some BS the store was telling you about the warranty. The hairdryer idea sounds like a viable method to keep the sticker intact for future problems. I read that the first week of use should include heavy burn-in to find out if the chip will fail or not. If it survives the burn-in then the chances are beyond small that the chip will fail without user abuse (voltage overclocking etc).
  8. Ok, you have the supplies and the motivation to make a ducting system. Let's conduct this as an experiment that is repeatable and think about the major factors that can contribute to the success or failure. You need an external thermal probe to take ambient room temperatures, case temperatures, CPU temps (internal probe for this step), and PSU exhaust temps. We know that the length of the ducting can be a factor as restriction and that the intake and exhaust holes can be a restriction. We also know that fan settings can be a factor if they are not the same in the before and after tests. We also know that the amount of time hot exhaust from GPU and CPU is dumped inside the case can play a factor. Step 1 is to know ambient room temperature and internal case temperature at idle and full burn. Make sure fan settings are setup and do not change during the experiment. Record idle and burn-in temps. Burn-in should be conducted for a fixed , generous amount of time (Maybe 30 mins or 1 hour for temperature stablization) Step 2 install ducting and redo step 1. Step 3 modify intake/exhaust and redo step 1. Step 4 organize and compare data. Formulate conclusion. If you only see 1~2` Clesius drop than I can postulate that your internal ambient case temperatures were already cool or that the CPU intake specifically was not receiving hot exhausted air from other components. However, without seeing all the data it would be hard to say that is true after 1 hour of burn-in since by then the internal case ambient temperatures could rise significantly which would adversely affect the CPU intake. I already had a side panel duct to route fresh air directly to my CPU but I then used ducting to route the exhausted CPU air over the system ram and PWMIC and then had an exhaust fan on the rear side of the case to pull the hot air out. Here is my sample data: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41049 Temperature readings before modification using Compu-Nurse probe running Prime95 after ten minutes using an 80mm PSU fan, 80mm case exhaust fan, and 92mm CPU intake fan (no other fans in my computer): PSU: 37` Celsius Ram: 39` Celsius CPU: 40` Celsius MOSFETs: 41` Celsius Case ambient temp: 31` Celsius Room ambient temp: 25` Celsius Temperature readings after modification using Compu-Nurse probe running Prime95 after ten minutes is: PSU: 36` Celsius Ram: 36` Celsius CPU: 40` Celsius MOSFETs: 32` Celsius Case ambient temp: 29` Celsius Room ambient temp: 26` Celsius
  9. Those pictures illustrate a great mind at work. Good job finding the thin copper inserts and getting that installation corrected. Looks great. Cheers,
  10. Heh, I recently sleeved my cheap power supply and built and acryllic container for it. While removiung the main 24 pin connector I jabbed myself really good in the thumb. Damned bandaid would not stick at all to the end of my finger so it took longer to heal. I used the tool offered from SVC.com that looks similar to a two prong fork. The main connector pins are square so removing was not quite as simple as the rest of the molex plugs. I did the whole job with the two tools below. here is the tool I used: All tools http://svc.com/sleeving-tools.html Molex tool $4.99 http://svc.com/tool4.html Main 24 pin connector tool $4.99 http://svc.com/tool5.html
  11. For three pin fan header connectors the following applies: The fan's red wire goes to the 12 volt source. The fan's black wire goes to the ground pin. The fan's yellow wire is the fans speed sensor. For four pin molex connectors the following applies: The fan's red wire goes to the yellow pin. The fan's black wire goes to the black pin. The fan's yellow wire is not connected to the 4 pin molex. Not all of the motherboard fan headers are capable of speed sensing. Only three are. The CPU, Chipset, and there is one header near the CPU plug typically used for rear case exhaust. The pin layout of the motherboards fan header is standard as follows: pin 1 is 12 volt source. pin 2 is ground source. pin 3 is speed sensor. If you get a rheobus fan controller then you can modify your cables so that the speed sensor is still plugged into your motherboard. The speed sensor has nothing to do with controlling the speed of the fan merely reporting the speed. The variable voltage control on the three aforementioned fan headers is temperature based and can be controlled via the bios or by software such as Smartguardian/MBM5. The percentage control that is offered by some softwares is telling the percentage of the maximum voltage and not the percentage of RPM. Although the RPM is directly related to the voltage this is an additional equation not considered by the motherboards voltage dividers. External rheobus fan controls have a higher wattage capacity which is often needed when employing 80~120mm fans with high current demands. By using the motherboard to vary the voltage you place demands on voltage dividing circuits that will generate heat. This reason alone is a very good idea to use external fan controllers. If you have low cfm, low current draw fans than the motherboard fan headers will suffice and not have to deal with excessive voltage drops along with the heat dissipation. Anytime a fan is controlled using variable voltage a trade off exists somewhere in the system. That trade off is watts being dissipated by a capable power resistor or transistor. So the final question is where do you want the heat to be generated? Hopefully this provides you with enough information about fan control.
  12. If the error is not the assignment of CD-rom being the boot drive, then it appears the system files are not being copied to the harddrive correctly. If the harddisk was used for a previous computer I would recommend Fdisk Utility to clear any registry and formatting options. Make sure your drive is formated in NTFS for the most up to date security features. This will make the drive function like new whereas a format alone will not. Assuming the bios drive assignment is not the problem, has anybody experienced system files not installing correctly to a hard drive?
  13. I run the firewall. I manually turn off the application during the bootup process when I play games so it does not "harass" my TCP/IP packets during gameplay. Otherwise I am very happy with it. Better than Norton in my opinion. Norton Internet security suite would alert me of an attack and promptly give me the IP address of my network printer sitting beside me... If you have no use of turning off internet traffic when certain detections occur than do not install. Useful for wives that seem to click on any ad that pops up and delivers viruses.
  14. Break out a multi-meter and test for the PS_On signal. If present then it is not the PSU. Power supplies have a simple on/off/stanby function that is controlled by the motherboard. The motherboard has the function of maintaining the status to tell the power supply. By checking the PS_On signal pin you can determine which assembly is causing the error for sure. The motherboard will allow the path to be connected to enable the PS_On signal to go high and within 1/2 second max the voltage rails should be at optimum. If this does not occur, then disable the PSU from the motherboard and try to jumper (paperclip or male pin works to short the green wire to a black wire) the connector to manually turn on the powersupply. Use a switch inline with the short created to turn on/off/on to verify the powersupply can recover after being shutdown. This error is far more likely to occur from the motherboard than the power supply. However if the powersupply does not send a power ok signal in time then the motherboard will not power up. Or if a voltage was over or under during operation the Power supply can apply protection that will stay in effect after a soft shutdown occurs. Some links: http://www.formfactors.org/developer%5Cspe...X12V_PS_1_1.pdf http://www.enermax.com.tw/english/upload/d...16334895923.pdf PS. IF you believe it to be the power supply, then use paragraph 3.3.7 of the ATX Power Supply form factor requirements guide as backup for an immediate RMA for repair or replacement.
  15. I really like everything on your list. I am not a Zalman fan but it functions decently. That video card in particular will suite your BF2 needs very well. The heat will be dumping onto the chipset fan and this is a particular common problem. I recommend spending $10 or so on the Evercool hsg. Check this useful sticky out for sure: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50820 Or for the adventurous: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showpost.p...8&postcount=171 Here is the picture of his results. He modified an Arctic Freezer to passively cool his chipset.
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