Jump to content

General Septem

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by General Septem

  1. That's hillarious. What did he do, take the heat spreader off? Or didn't the CPU come with one?
  2. My old motherboard didn't have the floppy and molex connections, but it did have the 20-pin ATX and the 4-pin 12v. Five years that motherboard was in use (only by me for the last three), and the 4-pin was never plugged in. Ever. My old PSU didn't even have the connector. This plus the fact that the two case fans that it came with never worked until I replaced them (which did help with the crashing, a little, but by this point the CPU was probably fried), it's no wonder the thing constantly crashed and/or froze. We're talking several times a day here, and it did so since day 1. I don't know how much of the problem was the abscence of the 4-pin 12v and how much of it was overheating, but I'm almost positive the 4-pin would've made a difference. tl;dr: Never underestimate what four little pins can do. Plug them all in, and avoid headaches and bruised hands from banging them on the desk every time your system crashes.
  3. I see. Well, that's good to know. So what would you call the connector then, 8-pin EPS?
  4. They're marked. When you open your PSU, they'll be stuck together. Simply slide them apart and you'll be set. Keep in mind I'm going by the PowerStream. The ModStream (if you choose to get it) may be different.
  5. Not a BTX PSU, but for BTX boards. Or at least that's the impression I got from the OCZ forums. They said that the 8-pin plug is for BTX boards. http://www.bleedinedge.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5661 If you have an ATX board with a 4-pin 12v connector, then you just tuck the +P4 away somewhere.
  6. It's got a 20-pin ATX plug and a 4-pin "E" plug. Together these make up a 24-pin plug. They do that so you can use the PSU on a 20-pin or 24-pin board without having to use adapters. (20 to 24-pin adapters don't cut it, and 24 to 20-pin adapters just look unprofessional) Completely separate from the "E" plug are the P4 plug and the +P4 plug. Together these make up an 8-pin BTX plug, but the P4 plug (NOT the +P4) by itself is what you'd use in the 4-pin plug on ATX boards. But, the PowerStream is a better PSU than the ModStream. The ModStream is still formidable, and I'd imagine the quality is comparable, but the PowerStream has more power and longer cables. I ran one of the wires from my PowerStream to its limit so I can't imagine what I would've done if I'd gotten the ModStream.
  7. Thank you. :nod: I ended up using N4D623-3.exe. This is the version the DFI website will give you, so you know it'll work. The two below this in the menu I'm figuring are older versions of the same BIOS. But I'm going to take a stab in the dark and say they'll all work, since all the nF4 motherboards use the same chipset. If you're unsire like me, just go with N4D623-3.exe.
  8. If you go to the DFI home page, and go to your motherboard's BIOS download page, you'll be given "N4D623-3.exe". Since this is what the main site reccomends, that's what I used. But what ultimately solved the problem was fixing the jumpers. You may want to start there. Your sig says you're using a WD PATA, so just remove the jumper altogether. If you get another PATA HDD you'll want to put the jumper back in, but if you get a SATA, which I'd reccomend anyway, you must still leave it out. :nod:
  9. For some reason I can't see the BIMG tags. I mean it doesn't show up as a picture. It just shows up as a URL with the tags on either side. Is there something I need to enable?
  10. I designed the color scheme after the Titans' Gundam Mk-II from the anime series "Kidou Senshi Zeta Gundam". :nod: There may be a few things left to do. I want to paint the drawer fronts on the CD/DVD drives, but I don't want to cover up the logos, it would look weird just a plain solid color. Is there a way to put some kind of decal on there or a stencil or something? I feel inadequate next to most of the other case mods here. ;_;
  11. D: ...thank you. I'm not sure if my case can hold up to some of those :
  12. I've seen people mount their computer inside a cardboard box. In fact, pics of cardboard box computers are a dime a dozen on /g/. I've also seen people use PC cases as planters.
  13. I wouldn't make a fiddle out of plexiglass. It's been done, but plexi doesn't have good acoustic properties.
  14. I designed the color scheme after the Titans' Gundam Mk-II from the anime series "Kidou Senshi Zeta Gundam". :nod: (if this is in the wrong forum, just move it )
  15. Seconded. :nod: EDIT: and thanks to all the other mods and anyone else who gave me help as well! You saved me a great deal :nod:
  16. Well if it isn't fried, at the very least you'll glue the thing on and never be able to get it off :shake:
  17. This solved my problem Thank you so much =D The mods should give you some kind of promotion for this.
  18. I have it set to cable select. Should I change it? EDIT: It's set to cable select but the BIOS does recognize it as master. EDIT2: I posted this on my own computer :nod: (it will boot so long as I keep the Windows XP CD in. If that's what it takes it's no big loss.)
  19. Now that I've upgraded the BIOS I can't even get past the BIOS screen. I can hit delete and enter setup, but if I just leave it it does nothing. It's been like ten minutes. Also, I don't think it's the IDE ribbon since the HDD does work. I did finally manage to format the disk, fully install Windows, and I can even boot from the HDD as long as I leave the XP CD in. Possibly I don't have the right side of it plugged into the HDD. It's one of those IDE ribbons with two HDD connections. I know I've got the right one in the motherboard, and I've got the one on the other end (not the midde one) in the HDD. Should I switch to the middle one?
  20. :eek: *disables RAID again* OK, I flashed the BIOS. It doesn't look any different than what was there, so I hope it did something. I'm now clearing the CMOS for 20 minutes. We'll see what happens.
  21. Actually, yes, I did listen. I unplugged my SATA HDD before I reformatted my PATA again and then installed Windows. To clear things up here, I'm installing on my PATA. The SATA is for all my files and whatnot. The PATA contains Windows and programs only.
  22. Which of these do I want? Or will they all work? http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/akai-...ei/IMG_1390.jpg
  23. Don't applause just yet. : It still won't boot to the HDD. It will boot to the HDD if I keep the XP CD in and just don't "press any key". So I'm going to try flashing the BIOS. Which one out of these do I want? http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/akai-...ei/IMG_1390.jpg
  24. ....or you can just leave the CD in but not "press any key". I'm so stupid : Problem solved. Thanks for your help everyone. :nod:
  25. Well, let's take a look at something here: When you boot from the CD: An incredibly long process of loading drivers and such take place. Windows setup loads. At which point, you get a choice to install Windows, go into the recovery console, or quit. So then you press enter to install windows. It then asks which partition to install to. After you choose your partition, you get the option to format the partition. After you format the partition, windows setup copies files to your HDD and reboots your computer. If you leave the CD in and boot from it again, you'll go through the same process time and time again. So the natural conclusion is that at this point you remove the CD and boot from the HDD and continue installation from there, yes? That's where I'm stuck at. It won't boot from the HDD. :
  • Create New...