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Gigashadow

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  1. Uhm, I have a car stereo hooked up to an OLD PSU in my shop and it works great, the dc comming out of the PSU is preaty solid pure dc since computer components need a pure solid as possible dc current to operate properly.
  2. I painted a laptop with mirage paint and used polyurathane as the clear coat it's also got my wifes name ghosted into the paint. Anyway it doesn't look cheap and it also doesn't flake or chip. BUT and this is a big but, if you want it to look good and not look cheap you have to gut the whole thing and paint only the case parts other wise you'll screw up the drives.
  3. HOLY CRAP!!!! THat's the same case I just used in a mod I did for some one wish I had taken some finishing photos I was in such a rush I forgot. It was sweet though, nice dark forest green with a light gold metal fleck almost a mirage in the right light also dusted it with a purple, only a dusting at a 45 degree angle to give a mirage look so that when you turned the case a certain way it looked like a really cool purple green. Dremeled a dolphin jumping out of the water on the side, maybe I can find some pics of it while I was working on it.
  4. I don't know about the rest of you but I have a flat screen with the blue tint for cutting down glare and I have used windex for the past two years on it at least once a week and it still has a bluish tint, SOunds like a a myth for the Myth Busters to me.
  5. If your going to mod it and paint it you defenatlly need to scuff it up a bit. I painted my wifes laptop with a chamelion purple and green color it came out great then I ghosted her name in it with home made stencils, the ghosting was done in a gold pearl color.
  6. The center pole is your hot wire going in, then you use the post labled ST or IGN(start) that is your momentary on, the rest are ground, accessory, and the run position.
  7. I only use automotive paints, sandable primer, and engine enamels, My clear coat of choice is candy apple clear coat, maked the glossiest shine on the planet. Sand your case clean it with tack cloth DO NOT TOUCH WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY CLEANED, the oil in your fingers will create a wrinkled effect, the paint won't bond where the oil is, I ALWAYS wear rubber surgical gloves (no oil). spray your first light coat of primer don't worry if you can still slightly see through, let it dry how ever long you think you need to, wet sand with 220 grit. now reapeat this step about 6 or 7 times each time using a finer grit sand paper, till you get to your 1000 or 1200 grit. After each sanding WASH good so you don't have any residue behind, towel dry with a nice soft towel. Now start your colored layer the same way and procede the same as above except use around 650 to 800 grit to start with and go from there 2 coats at 800 grit then two at next grit like 1000 then two at 1200. just liek above clean after each sanding. Ok now for your clear coat, BE SURE to tack cloth BEFORE you start your clear coat, don't touch anything with your bare hands. apply the clear coat evenly in thin coats, use the 1200 grit only on all layers. Wash between sandings Finally once your done Get a GOOD buffing compound and polish, start off with the buffing compound (I use a small turtle wax buffer I got at home depot for 15 bucks) if you don't have a buffer you can do it by hand, READ THE DIRECTIONS ON THE BOTTLE, APPLY IT JUST LIke THE BOTTLE SAYS!! Be sure to polish till all teh buffing scuffs are gone. Once that's done, you can do your polish just like the bottle says. You should end up with a glass finish on your case. This is exactally how i do it every time but I only wait abotu 30 minutes or 45 minutes between coats, I do very light coats but even, I also bake it in the oven or put it out in the hot Texas sun so it dries super fast, sandable in 30 to 45 minutes. Also if you use a power buffer be sure not to burn through the paint. Good luck
  8. Or you could send it to me and I could powder coat it. I do powder coating as well as custom painting. But if your going to paint it yourself there is some really good tutorials in the forum for painting. Or you could do it this way. I recommend doing it this way if your not doing powder coating, this is the way I do it, always come out tip top. I only use automotive paints, sandable primer, and engine enamels, My clear coat of choice is candy apple clear coat, maked the glossiest shine on the planet. Sand your case clean it with tack cloth DO NOT TOUCH WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY CLEANED, the oil in your fingers will create a wrinkled effect, the paint won't bond where the oil is, I ALWAYS wear rubber surgical gloves (no oil). spray your first light coat of primer don't worry if you can still slightly see through, let it dry how ever long you think you need to, wet sand with 220 grit. now reapeat this step about 6 or 7 times each time using a finer grit sand paper, till you get to your 1000 or 1200 grit. After each sanding WASH good so you don't have any residue behind, towel dry with a nice soft towel. Now start your colored layer the same way and procede the same as above except use around 650 to 800 grit to start with and go from there 2 coats at 800 grit then two at next grit like 1000 then two at 1200. just liek above clean after each sanding. Ok now for your clear coat, BE SURE to tack cloth BEFORE you start your clear coat, don't touch anything with your bare hands. apply the clear coat evenly in thin coats, use the 1200 grit only on all layers. Wash between sandings Finally once your done Get a GOOD buffing compound and polish, start off with the buffing compound (I use a small turtle wax buffer I got at home depot for 15 bucks) if you don't have a buffer you can do it by hand, READ THE DIRECTIONS ON THE BOTTLE, APPLY IT JUST LIke THE BOTTLE SAYS!! Be sure to polish till all teh buffing scuffs are gone. Once that's done, you can do your polish just like the bottle says. You should end up with a glass finish on your case. This is exactally how i do it every time but I only wait abotu 30 minutes or 45 minutes between coats, I do very light coats but even, I also bake it in the oven or put it out in the hot Texas sun so it dries super fast, sandable in 30 to 45 minutes. Also if you use a power buffer be sure not to burn through the paint. Good luck
  9. Actually they make sweet home cases there's lots of room for doing awsome lighting mods and some other cool stuff, like lasers and mirror type things.
  10. Actually won't you get to high of a voltage increase witht he smaller resistor? I believe that is correct. either that or I have it backwards.
  11. I won't work. Why you think I said you would have to figure out how to use the laptop motherboard to make the Laptop screen to work since the laptop screen is a digital signal. If I might be frank, this isn't rocket science here. The only plausable way to make your idea work is to get a 17inch LCD screen off Ebay or where ever, gut it make a frame on the window side of your case to hold this screen plug the screen into the VGA card Plug the screen into the wall, plug the PC in to the wall and your done. Otherwise like I said before if your going to use one switch you need a relay system like in a car to keep power to the monitor once the momentary on switch has been pressed. Anyway don't make it harder than it has to be other wise your making problems for yourself in the end.
  12. Ya dude EBay will be your best bet for a cheap one. I ussually get PS1 screens from there for my LCD screens that I place in car headrests and on the sides of PC's. They are versitile can be used for all sorts of good . from Car entertainment center monitors to PC secondary monitors and so on. But I would think you won't be able to power a 17 inch monitor from the power supply since they have there own power supply anyway. Here's what i would do is buy a double pole double throw 115 V switch and wire one side to the PC power and the other side to the monitor power power. I believe that would be the corect switch to seperate the two different volts. Edit: That would not be a double pole double throw, it would be a double pole single throw, but you would also need some sort of relay system that would keep the monitor on because the monitor needs constant power and the PC on only needs a temporary on. Seems to me it would be more of a pain in the butt than it would be worth. It would still be cool if you had two switches to turn it on though. Another thing you should think about is how are you goign to open up the case with the monitor mounted in the window of the case side? The only LCD screen off hand I can think off that would fit on the Mother board side of the case would be a laptop LCD and then you have no converter to make it work anyway with out finding a way to use the laptop board to power the digital inverter. Anyway good luck.
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