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Temujin

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  1. If you set put all the SLI board jumpers in the lower position, your lower PCIE slot will run correctly if you are having problems. I left my jumpers in the default position and did not notice any performance difference. If your jumpers aren't in the default position with your video card in the upper PCIE slot, you will have video card boot error beeps.
  2. I see alot of people with that 520w Powerstream OCZ psu having similar issues. Try a different PSU and use 1 stick of ram at first boot to install windows. You can add the stick after the install. Give that power hungry machine a different OCZ, Enermax, Sunbeam PSU.
  3. Using that bottom PCI-e slot means doing the SLI mod to get full bandwidth from the video card. I'm right in the middle of doing that myself. I have a Swiftech kit that requires me moving the video card down to the bottom/2nd slot, so I can use the block. Right now I am double checking and researching to make sure I am removing the epoxy from the correct leads which appear to the middle right of the chipset. Next up is a Koolance configuration.
  4. Since you've reformatted twice, no virus (unless you reinstalled something with a nasty each time). All these random symptoms point to the PSU. The DFI board uses alot of power by itself. Then your signature shows a Raid 0 format with an X800GT02 "AND" X850XT. If you're running both cards, then that 470w is completely under powering your system and your system will absolutely start to degrade. Undervolting will damage your system component by component, which is why a non-mainstream PSU is such a bad thing. PSU is my suggestion along with a possible bad memory module (assuming you've done a little overclocking now and then on an under volting powersupply). All these symptoms lead me to think your PSU is the source. After you've replaced it, you should do a Prime95 test and see what happens.
  5. BFGs are pretty new to me and any benchmark tests. Do a net search to see if anyone has been testing the psu. Enermax is a proven piece of hardware. If you feel motivated, buy the BFG and monitor the 3v, 5v, and 12v rails with a monitor program. Maybe the ATI driver cd has a decent one to use. Don't rely on the BIOS for a true reading since there is no load or draw on the psu. If your software shows it bouncing around too much (i.e. from 12.12v to 11.59v or 12.12 to 12.24v) when you aren't doing anything other than idling or surfing the web. Large drops and rising on the rails when you aren't doning anything that requires the full use of your system indicates sloppy voltage and bad stability = bad. Good luck
  6. Well, I suffered from that same problem among one other. Since your pc isn't beeping when it hangs, I will assume there's no way the VGA isn't completely seating on teh board. When I had that 4 LED hang, I disconnected the main power to the PSU and motherboard. I then pressed the power button to drain the capacitors. I set my cmos to CLEAR. Now for some odd reason in the past, when I reset the cmos...on occassions it would not reset or take. So I would do it twice within a 15 minute period. Then I reset it back to default. I have tried the battery removal in the past. I've only done it once and followed the common directions for it. Its chancey to do sometimes because if you don't drain the caps first, you may damage your system. Make sure to drain the capacitors before you try it. Good luck.
  7. EEP! Could be a 6800 (GS) 256mb vanilla issue? Hopefully just a issue with drivers and not permanent hardware.
  8. Yes. Some of them work fine. I happened to have an older copper vantec that worked great and cooled the chipset even better than the stock fan. www.coolerguys.com - www.frozencpu.com - www.svc.com - www.newegg.com - www.oxide.com - www.directron.com Just a few sites you can find all kinds of heatsinks. Even a nice copper h/s with a good side fan blowing in the side would cool better than the stock. Good hunting.
  9. I've never seen that on anything before. Does your sound ever crackle, snap, or make static? Any chance something is grounding out, even slightly? Otherwise, hope your PSU isn't having an issue, or starting to show signs of issues.
  10. Build the system over outside the box. Yes, its a pain, but you can narrow it down better which is worth it. 1. Connect minimum hardware: cpu + fan, 1 stick memory, the HDD being installed on, 1 rom drive. Make sure ALL 4 power connectors are attached: 4pin floppy, 4-pin IDE, 24-pin main, P4-12v. 2. Disconnect the PSU power cord and press the power button to drain the capacitors. 3. Perform a 5 minute to 1 hour cmos clear. 4. Plug back in the power and attempt a boot. 5. For peace of mind, reinstall windows assuming a boot has been achieved. You'll beat this little problem with ease even if you have to RMA something.
  11. I hope you RMA'd all your parts along with the motherboard. I wouldn't have bothered trying without it. 4 LEDs suggests your video card (if I'm correct). There isn't much you can do aside from making sure every last power connector is in place, and that your video card is fully seating. Building it out side of the case to start will ensure this since some of the cases and motherboard standoff screws are too short and prevent the card from seating. Also, only plug in the essential components you need to achieve a working boot. (i.e.: 1 stick of ram to start, rom drive, 1 hdd, video card, cpu and fan) Don't plug in your sound cards, lights, trinkettes, or anything else. Then, with the power disconnected from the motherboard, press the power button ON the motherboard which drains the capacitors. Then do a long decent Cmos clear: 5 minutes to an hour. Plug your power back in and give the system a try. Good luck and drop a line when you can.
  12. Those ThermalTake PSUs have had one rough history working with the newer Nf4 systems, especially SLI systems. If you can't RMA then that means you probably can't mail it to someone who can RMA it for you. Guess you'll have to try and find another PSU if you need more than 500 watts from the Enermax. What model Enermax? And put your system specs in your signature.
  13. Right click on My Computer > select Properties > select Hardware > select Device Manager Click on those + tabs and note whats missing. The Yellow Exclamation symbol should be there if its missing something. I'm guessing its Raid drivers or 2nd Ethernet. Update us later.
  14. If you are installing the OS from that cd rom, yes it is. BqnQs are good rom drives, but it seems quite a few have had issues with the newer NF4 systems. Could be a chipset vs. rom drive firmware issue. At least it will help eliminate the rom drive that has shown up in many other problems in the forums, if you change it out. Up the ram voltage to 2.7v and do a memterst. Then do a fresh OS install and start from beginning. If the errors are gone for the memory, and you still have problems, then I would be pointing to the motherboard. If you're running solid afterwards then we can kick the BenQ and memory voltage
  15. Sounds like the cold start bug. And yes, that Aspire 500w was good back when we didn't need uber system performance. Now, its pretty much worthless to your system. That Enermax should be starting no problem. If its still under warranty, consider RMA'ing for a new one. They have made some revisions since they were first cast. If you have power wiring going to the board that is sharing power to other parts, try seperating them so the board gets its own the best you can. It can help by pass the cold start bug.
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