Jump to content

vrodforums

Members
  • Content Count

    72
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About vrodforums

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  1. I must be lucky, I have been dealing with NewEgg for as long as I can remember. Never a problem at all and I even buy a lot of refurbished items (returns that are tested I'm sure). I just got my second x1900XTX for 469.00 and it's the best one I have seen. Overclocks like crazy and even though advertised that it was the card only it came in a box with all the cables and disc. I can only guess why someone would have returned it. I wish you luck in getting the issue resolved.
  2. I have a set of those cards sitting here on the desk that I just took out. I was running them in sli with the artic cooler and they never ran over 51C and were very quiet. They do exhaust most of the heat out of the case but take up some extra room.
  3. I had a similar issue with a neo 550 PSU just before it went bad. It would from time to time spike the cpu voltage and the temp readings. Just a thought.
  4. This is almost funny, you guys put way too much faith in the on board sensors. I have tried the same cpu in three different DFI boards and two asus boards and the same cpu with the same cooler and it read different in every single board. One of the DFI boards read as much as 15C higher but that board now has my FX57 running at 3.05 24/7 and is rock solid with an air cooler showing 36C at idle and 50C loaded. Oh and all the boards tested read the exact same temp on the heat sink using a digital pyrometer.
  5. I found after I tried everything that my FX-60 likes the 13 multiplier as good as anything. It is rock solid at default voltage at 13x220 and lets me run my Corsair XMS PC3500 at 2-3-2-6. If I want to do some high benches I can throw in some Patriot PC4800 and it has no problem booting at 10x315 at all but the top of the stability for prime on air is 3.03 but requires 1.525 volts for that so I stick with the 13x220 @ default for 24/7 use.
  6. To be honest unless you plan to do multi tasking your going to find the single core is still IMHO the best route to go. I have both an FX-60 and an FX-57 and for all of the games my kids play (COD2, Fear, etc) the FX-57 matched with an x1900xt still offers the most bang for the buck. I also have several single core 146 and 148's that will all hit 2.8 @ 1.45 volts or less while the three 175 opterons I purchased not a one would push above 2.7 stable without pushing the voltage up above the 1.6 volt. There is a lot less luck required to get a good single core to overclock versus a good dual core.
  7. I have an x1900xt setup with an fx-57 and 4 HDD's on an ultra D using a 500w antec truepower and it is stable as a rock and my kids run it for not just hours but days at a time running at 3.05ghz and the card default with COD2 maxed out on the optima 100" in the living room. Never misses a beat or gives any problems. I have run it with several different bios and never had any issues. As a matter of fact I'm about to dump my SLi 7800GT's for another 1900 and might get the xtx but the card is the best gaming card I have ever seen. While the SLi's will score 1500 points higher in 3dmark a single 1900 will put the sli's to shame when you turn the graphics up to maximum.
  8. I wasn't aware that cold bug had a defined temperature but I personally know people that have problems getting opterons to post with vapo chill. As far as water cooling goes I was making my own water blocks on a taig end mill in my garage a couple of years before I even heard of danger den and using everything from condensers to you name it for transfer and cooling. Until you start cooling the water down below ambient temp your overclock is going to be very limited.
  9. What if he purchased a 170 with a cold bug? I'm sorry I don't see vapo as being a 24/7 dependable unit for any period of time still, just too many things to factor into a unit like that.
  10. Opteron 146 CABYE 0540 FPMW DFI Lanparty UT nF4 Ultra-D (bios 11/14/2005) Opteron 146 10x290 2.9 @ 1.525 2x512 1GB Patriot PC4800 Nvidia 7800GT Evga 470x1100 4x100GB SATA Maxtor 8mb cache raid 0 Antec Truepower 500w Genie BIOS Settings: FSB Bus Frequency - 290 LDT/FSB Frequency Ratio - AUTO CPU/FSB Frequency Ratio - 10 PCI eXpress Frequency - 100Mhz CPU VID StartUp Value - StartUp CPU VID Control - 1.525v CPU VID Special Control - Auto LDT Voltage Control - 1.20v Chip Set Voltage Control - 1.50v DRAM Voltage Control - 2.70v DRAM Configuration Settings: DRAM Frequency Set - 200=RAM/FSB:01/01 Command Per Clock (CPC) - Enable CAS Latency Control (Tcl) - 2.5 RAS# to CAS# delay (Trcd) - 04 Bus Clocks Min RAS# active time (Tras) - 08 Bus Clocks Row precharge time (Trp) - 04 Bus Clocks Row Cycle time (Trc) - 16 Bus Clocks Row refresh cyc time (Trfc) - 16 Bus Clocks Row to Row delay (Trrd) - 02 Bus Clocks Write recovery time (Twr) - 02 Bus Clocks Write to Read delay (Twtr) - 02 Bus Clocks Read to Write delay (Trwt) - 03 Bus Clocks Refresh Period (Tref) - Auto Write CAS Latency (Twcl) - Auto DRAM Bank Interleave - Enabled DQS Skew Control - Auto DQS Skew Value - 0 DRAM Drive Strength - Auto DRAM Data Drive Strength - Auto Max Async Latency - Auto DRAM Response Time - Fast Read Preamble Time - Auto IdleCycle Limit - 256 Cycles Dynamic Counter - Disable R/W Queue Bypass - 16 x Bypass Max - 04 x 32 Byte Granularity - Disable(4 Bursts) ========== Prime95 + 3dMark2001SE + CPU-Z 1.31 + Everest 2.20: 3dMark2003: 3dMark2005: ========== short description: My daughters machine, or was I gave her my FX-57 machine About average week 0540 chip I have a CAb2e 148 that is almost identical in performance DFI Lanparty UT nF4 Ultra-D (bios 11/14/2005) Opteron 146 10x290 2.9 @ 1.525 2x512 1GB Patriot PC4800 Nvidia 7800GT Evga 470x1100 4x100GB SATA Maxtor 8mb cache raid 0 Antec Truepower 500w
  11. MBM is just using the sensors that the bios and other software uses. Run prime for 30 minutes and then stop it, does your temp go back to idle temp in less than 2 seconds? If you answered yes then I can assure you that your cpu temperature is not being monitored correctly. It would be impossible to take a mass of copper or aluminum and drop the temp that fast, even if the load is removed it would take at least two minutes to remove the energy that has been put into the mass. I know someone is going to tell me about physics and how they have a 120mm fan. I tried to post the formula for determining the time duration for air cooling to effect the mass but the code does not post correctly so you can view this link. http://www.aavidthermalloy.com/technical/p...mentation.shtml
  12. Jack I use a thermal laser to check mine but you can use a host of types of thermometers that use either thermal couples or hard probes that are not that expensive to verify temps. With three DFI boards not a one of them reads correct when checked with good temperature measuring tools. Hat I think you might be a little quick to pass judgment and I disagree with much of what you say for the record. You appear to be basing your information on bios or software readings and they simply are not correct with DFI boards. Great overclockers but terrible at reading temps.
  13. Jack I suggest you use something besides software to check your temps.
  14. While you will read about those with the 3.0ghz dual cores not many of those really run on air cooling. Probably even less run 24/7 at those speeds but I'm sure a few really do. Do a search for the results of 4800+ overclocks and most seem to peak at around 2.8 for 24/7 operation with 1.4-1.5 volts applied. I have really only seen a couple that hit 3.0 and usually require more like 1.6 volts which isn't good on air cooling since the heat from the big dual cores is pretty intense. There is however nothing cast in stone and each chip seems to be a little different so your results might be better or worse. The only way to find out is to spend a little time reading the stickie guides and then see what yours will do. I run my machines 24/7 and usually will do some bench test higher but rarely do I apply extra voltage and settle for an overclock that runs at default voltage.
  15. Not sure which model you have but mine is made just for metal and is dead on when double checked with a hard probe. While I agree that they are not off by 54 degrees they are off by as much as 15c (or atleast two of the boards I have are)and that is a big difference when your talking about stability of a cpu. I just read all these reports of idle temps being almost room temperature and I hate to break the news to people that a cpu on air cooling simply won't run at room temperature. So if your seeing 50C and you don't know how accurate your board really reads then you might just be hitting 65c or higher. Some report they hit a wall and won't go higher even with more volts but it may be they are hitting the thermal limits of the chip and not even know it. I currently have 4 different brands of 939 motherboards and the DFI boards read as much as 15c less than any of the other boards. If you want the best board for temp sensors I have one A8N32 that is dead on all the time when compared to a real measurement. I just can't believe that people think these chips heat up and cool down that quick to put any faith at all in these readings.
×
×
  • Create New...