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Tech-Noir

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Everything posted by Tech-Noir

  1. Make sure yo try other cables and SATA ports for the faulty HDD, preferably with it being the only HDD connected. I have had HDD weirdness and the source has almost always been cables going bad in some way.
  2. Just to answer you on a question: You don't need the keyboard to "press F1 to restart" after the flash is done. In fact, I believe that if you add a "/" switch (I think it is something like "r/" or whatever...) when you start the flash it will automatically reboot the computer. So the F1 step is basically for those too lazy to press reset. So as long as you can start the flash procedure, and assuming your computer doesn't hang itself by its neck mid-flash, you should be okay. Also, if the flash fails for some reason I guess you could always order a BIOS-chip or hotflash a chip with the proper BIOS in another rig, if you have the availability of course (and want to be really really sure before you RMA). And I hope that bag isn't electrically conductive. Sounds like a bad idea to me... Good luck to ya anyways. I haven't had a single problem with my Ultra-D so I do hope you can get this sorted and discover what a nice board it is (supposed to be).
  3. Being a Swede myself, I know that the OCZ PowerStream is nearly impossible to find in Sweden. I am using the FSP 550W and it works great, so if you ever plan on upgrading the PSU I can strongly recommend it. It is powering my sig very nicely. BTW, english is compulsory in Swedish schools from the third grade and on I think, so swedes are generally pretty decent in english. If anyone is wondering.
  4. longtan: One red LED will be visible untill the OS takes control of the computer (when you start Windows for example). You will have to be a bit more specific about your descriptions: "Now when i try to boot up i get a black screen and still have the one red light on the diags." Do you get a black screen after the BIOS screens have appeared, or do you not get any video? I would clear CMOS, then start the computer again. If you get no video but one LED, that means the computer has detected everything okay, RAM, CPU and Video, but you have no video output so you cannot see the BIOS loading.
  5. walla: You might simply have too tight RAM timings, and there might not be any problems with the RAM per say. Just loosen the timings and try to get it stable at stock speeds. The bigger part of everyone who buys a new mobo (especially DFI ones) need some time to configure everything before things run as they should. There are alot of natural causes why you might experience instability. Check the Overclocking guide for more info on RAM timings. If you are unsure of what to change etc, post your current timings (not sure if there is an easy way to do this or if you will need to write tham all down one by one) and someone might be able to give you some advice.
  6. Congrats. Hopefully it will all go without any fuzz.
  7. 3 days late: Well, If you have the chance to get it from a local store, I would go for that. If you have any problem whatsoever it will be tonnes easier to return it should you need to. I would personally pick an non-Expert board, as long as there isn't a feature with the Expert-boards that you need or like alot. Experts I think have more space around the PCI-E slots as you say, and they also don't have a 4v RAM voltage jumper on the board. And I don't think it has the SLI jumpers for changeing between x16-x2 and x8-x8 speeds for the PCI-E x16 slots. But if you are not going to run SLI, not gonne change alot between 3.2 and 4V RAM voltages you won't even notice those changes. I would say just go with what fits the best. If you can get an Expert from a local retailer, do it. Should things f*** up badly due to incompatibility, return it and consider an SLI-DR for example. You could also make sure to ask the local retailer about under what conditions you could return the board. It might not be broken, but it might have some incompatibility problems with what you have. Might not be fun to buy it, find out your RAM doesn't like the board or vice versa, and then be stuck with the board after all. Or, just ask around for a retailer that can bring in a DFI board of your choice. Either way, good luck.
  8. 1. The BIOS is very extensive. To me that is a good thing since it allows for maximum adjustability. 2. Your CPU and GPU look a-okay. The RAM might be an unknown factor. Kingston has had problems according to the people in the know. I use my Kingston BH-5 with no problems at all, but if you have some other chiptype (mostly of the value type) you might have problems. Since they are DDR500 I will however guess that they have TCCD or something on them, which should be fine. 3. There are auto settings that will use the SPD settings from the RAM. However it is very recommended that you set the timings yourself. The easiest way to start is to Load default settings at stock speed, then use a utility such as A64 Tweaker in windows to be able to see what value all timings (including the "AUTO" ones) have, write them down, and set those manually in the BIOS. After that it is just up to you to experiment for maximun performance. 4. I don't think so. There are the usual patches to apply in Windows and such, but nothing I know that is specific to the motherboard. I am not a DC user to someone else will have to fill you in on this. I should just say that the Lanparty Ultra-D I have is incredible. The design is made so that it will start with almost any settings. that means that if you have entered some wrong timings or such, there is no need to clear CMOS and crawl on the floor, you can simply enter BIOS again sicne the board always seems to start. Getting it to boot with incorrect settings is hard of course, but it is a very smooth process of changing settings, unlike my old NF2 Abit board were the slightest wrong setting would result in beeping, and me wasting 10 minutes clearing CMOS every other time. The Expert seems to have much more issues than the Ultra-D, so if I was to buy my board again, I still would choose the Ultra-D. Do you have any specific reason to go Expert? Hope it helps.
  9. I have the Kingston HyperX BH-5 RAM and it works flawlessly. Not sure that the Value RAM will work as well though, as that is what you are most likely experiencing LOUISSSSS.
  10. I see. Well then there is no real reason why they shouldn't work in the same way. Surely all RAM are different since they aren't exact copies of eachother down to the last atom, but this difference seems a bit too big. Just for clarity, are you running the same BIOS versions aswell? If not, that could be it. If you are running the same BIOS and same settings, then do try the yellow slots and keep trying to see what the limits are using those. Perhaps you can get the RAM to run as it should, only in the other color slots than you used to.
  11. "We tried running his memory in the yellow slots at 2-3-2-5, 1T, and it looped test 5 about 8 times with no errors." Was this also tested in your board, or did the yellow slots work in his board? Are the RAM settings identical in all aspects to the setup you had? I am running Kingston Hyper-X BH-5 in the yellow slots. Are you sure the RAM are identical in every sense (chip type, model number etc)?
  12. 42 is definately not too hot. I recall seeing how the PWM can handle up to 70 without problems. Obviously you want it as cool as possible. So in my opinion you don't have a problem. The CPU-temp looks ok. Depends on if you are OCing, what voltage you have etc. For a stock speed it looks good.
  13. Well, if you can memtest it ok, then that is definitive in my opinion. Call them back and see if there is anything else you can/need to try before RMAing.
  14. I would go with the nVidia drivers on www.nvidia.com. Make sure _not_ to install the IDE SW driver, the Network Manager and the Hardware Firewall. They can all cause problems (you will get special popups during the driver installation for all the things I mentioned, so just go ahead and install as usual). I have heard that the IDE SW drivers have been fixed for some time, but I am not going to be the one to find out. And as said earlier, that icon is for hotswapping. Basically, that means that you can use that icon to prepare the drive to be removed while the computer is still turned on. It is useful for external harddrives and such, but can be a bit irritating with internal drives. Not sure if it is possible to turn it off or permanently hide the icon though.
  15. If you are not overclocking and temps are fine on the graphics card then you are right, it is probably not the culprit. Memory problems are pretty general, and so a file might seem to cause a problem, when in fact it is the RAM messing up a file causing the problem. I believe setting to 2T would mean a 3-5% drop in performance. Something like that. If things seem stable right now, leave it on 1T. But if you keep getting BSODs or weird crashes or problems with applications terminating etc, then it would be a good idea to try 2T. Setting it to 2T could actually mean you might be able to clock the RAM a bit higher aswell, so it is like any other timing in that sense. Glad things seem to have worked out with the change of timings.
  16. The first BSOD referenced nv4_disp.dll. That would lead me to guess something with the Graphics card. Have you overclocked it or are you running stock? Are you running 1T or 2T timings for your 2x1GB RAM? It might be necessary to put the RAM to a 2T timing if you don't have that now. Since they are large modules of 1GB each, 1T might be a bit too fast which can result in weird crashes that are hard to pinpoint. Okay, just saw that Command per Clock is enabled, which would mean a 1T timing if I am not mistaken? Try setting that to Disabled and see if the Boot screen says the RAM is going in 2T. That is what I can think of now.
  17. Lemmy: it is a known "issue" that certain RAM will only work in certain memory slots. So in your case the orange ones work, so use those. Furthermore, make sure to run Memtest to test stock speed stability before srtting up windows or such. Memtest can be enabled in the Genie BIOS section, at the very bottom of the page. Once it starts, run it for a few hours to make sure the RAM isn't giving you lots of errors which could cause weird behaviour when installing Windows for example.
  18. Well, my guess would be that the GPU doesn't take part in Video encoding. Seems to me there is no reason for it since it to me seems like a pure CPU job. Video decoding I can see the GPU helping as they can, but not encoding. Either way, Seeing how you have done quite alot of trial and error with drivers etc, there might simply be some problem with the software you are using to encode. Are there any entries in the Windows system log from the time it collapses? That is all I have, sorry... :/
  19. Pocky: The SPD sections do not show the current timings and frequency, only the stock timings for the stock frequency, so to speak. In other words, they are designed to run at 250 Mhz with 3-5-5-10 timings. But they are currently running 226 MHz with 3-5-5-10 timings. I seem to see that you are running a divider on the RAM, which could explain why you are not getting the same frequency as your FSB might be. I don't even know what lapping a heatsink means, but I guess poor contact could cause it to be barely warm while the temps are quite high.
  20. Do try the yellow slots aswell for reference. My RAM will only work in the yellow slots, yours might also have problems with the orange ones so it would be a good idea to try it atleast. Just pop them both in there and try for 2-2-2-5. If it won't work, then atleast you know that.
  21. I have a slightly different view since my RAM will only work in the yellow slots...
  22. I would go with one large enough partition for the OS and one for applications and such. SO incase the OS screws up completely and a format is needed, the other partition and the data there is unaffected. I tend to install different applications every time, but the ones that are always constant are Speedfan, Samurize, Objectdock, WinRAR, Winamp. The rest are applications specific to my needs. But for me it is always WinRAR that needs the install first.
  23. Well, I run my BH-5 2x512 in yellow slots at 1T. And I cannot get a single stick of my RAM to post in either of the orange slots. I have no idea what the difference is between the slots.
  24. Good to hear things are out in the open now. That is quite a collection of problems and it is unfortunate that they all would choose to happen at the same time.
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