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MacUser

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  1. Well, I think DFI is somewhat unique in the motherboard market. DFI boards are not for people who don't have a lot of time on their hands to configure their systems, not to mention doing the research before hand to make sure all the parts will work properly. If you want a board that's purely plug and play, buy an ASUS, but if you want to work a little bit and get the best overclocking results possible, then stick with DFI. DFI is for enthusiasts, hardcore enthusiasts, and the boards require a lot of work. Would it be nice if you could get DFI results with ASUS ease of use? Sure, and when that board exists, I'll probably buy one. But back to my question, a quick search on this board for "NF4 expert cold boot issue" will yield a thread with tons of people who have the cold-boot issue. So, does this new bios fix it?
  2. Does anyone know if this BIOS corrects the "cold-boot" that a lot of people have with the expert? The 12/07 BIOS is rock solid for me, and I don't mind the temps being off (and I don't see that this BIOS really fixes that anyway, it just does for you what you can do mentally, i.e. add 10C to your readout), but... the cold-boot issue really bugs me, I hate having to switch my PSU off and back on again in order to boot after shutting down. Any feedback?
  3. It sounds mainly like a heat issue to me. My chipset never gets that hot, neither does my vid card. My guess is the HSF on the vid card isn't seated properly and it's leaving some gaps between the HSF and the chips is has to cool, try resetting it yourself with some good thermal paste. Also, whenever I play any game the first thing I do is ctrl-alt-del and set the affinity for the game to core 0. Most games don't like dual cores. I usually notice stuttering in the game when it's using both cores, which goes away when I set it to one. But yeah, 70C for your chipset is too high, that's probably causing the instability, a vid card overheating should just cause issues with the display, not actually crash the game (not 100% sure). Better airflow in your case may help. Good luck.
  4. No, what's that? That is the main reason I was asking about the DMM, I would like to know how much my motherboard is off by, right now I'm just adding 10C to all my temps, which seems about right, with both cores at full load I get 38 + 10 = 48C, but some people say their boards are off by as much as 20C! In which case I'd be in trouble...
  5. How accurate are digital multimeters for checking CPU temp? Where do you touch the tip of the DMM to get the reading?
  6. MacUser

    OCing guide Prime95 help

    Yeah, I also would like to know which is better for testing CPU stability, Large FFT or Blend. I already know my RAM is stable cause of memtest86+, is blend a bit easier on the CPU or just harder on the RAM?
  7. MacUser

    unofficial DUAL CORE opteron thread

    Were you running the 12/07 bios when it killed your cpu? there has been a lot of discussion on the xtremesystems forums about expert boards frying cpu's by overvolting the chips to around 3 volts on boot, even with no overclock. it's a design flaw in some of the expert boards that was supposedly fixed with the 12/07. I'm running and expert right now so I'm hoping I'm among the lucky majority who doesn't have this problem, but there's no way to know until something happens, if something happens.
  8. MacUser

    unofficial DUAL CORE opteron thread

    well it looks like the 0547TPMW is a pretty good chip. here are some early results for my [email protected], voltage set in bios to 1.4 + 104.8%. I only primed for 26 minutes, the temps went up to 39C, which means more like 49C since it's an Expert board. I'm probably going to turn it back down to 2.6GHz for another week or so until my AS5 sets before running 8+ hours of prime at 2.7GHz. I'm sure this chip could go up to 2.8GHz with a little extra voltage, but I'm not really that interested, it's already fast as hell at 2.6GHz. link to the screen shot shortly after stopping prime95: http://www.rit.edu/~mws8726/random_pics/results.jpg
  9. I'm currently running on an expert board, and aside from the cold-boot issue and the temps reading too low I can't tell you how happy I've been with this board. I was just wondering if it's normal to hear some strong audio feedback on the speakers/subwoofer when you shut down the computer. Even when I have my speakers turned all the way down I get a brief loud noise out of the subwoofer right when the motherboard switches off at the end of a shut down. This tells me that there is power (volts? watts?) surging through the motherboard. I just want to make sure this isn't also surging into my CPU. Does this happen to anyone else with the same board using onboard audio? Does anyone know how/why this happens and if it's bad for the CPU? I'm thinking of buying a multi-meter to check the volts to the CPU during a shut down...
  10. One more thing about the cold boot. If I shut down and then leave the computer off for a LONG time, as in overnight while I'm sleeping, then it will boot up fine again, without having to switch off the PSU. I haven't tested to see exactly how long the computer has to be shut down before it can be cold-booted but I just thought I'd add this so one of the tech's here can forward the information to the engineers at DFI.
  11. Just thought I'd chime in... I received my board two days ago and aside from the cold boot issue she's been running like a champ. My specs are in my sig, I've tried upping the vdimm, didn't help. I tried plugging in the SLI FDD power connector as Kohones did, no luck. I tried messing with the placement of the RAM, nothing. I've figured out the bare minimum for getting my computer to start, however. If I shut down my computer all I have to do is flip the switch on the PSU, wait until the yellow light in the middle of the mobo goes off, flip it back on and hit the power button, then everything works fine. I guess I'm more concerned with how this is affecting my other components, especially the CPU. I've read a few stories of some Experts killing CPU's on start-up. I really don't want to have to RMA this board, it would take sooo long. To me it seems like this is something that could be fixed with a BIOS update, maybe? RGone? Like I said, I really don't mind it all that much, and I'd rather sweat it out than wait for an RMA, just so long as it isn't harming any of my other components.
  12. MacUser

    unofficial DUAL CORE opteron thread

    Here are my results so far for the 0547TPMW OEM from monarch: 2.6GHz at stock voltage set in BIOS to 1.35v with no special. Stable for 2 hours in dual prime95, haven't done a longer test yet since I'm turning my computer off at night to let the AS5 set. I'm quite satisfied with this frequency for now, but I'm sure my satisfaction will soon fade and I'll be pushing up the volts and MHz in no time. As for temps, I get up to 38C with dual prime but those are obviously way off cause of the known issue with the Expert's temp sensor. BTW, does anyone know what the voltage tab is for in the options menu of ITE SmartGuardian?
  13. Mines an opteron 165, right now it's at 250x9 at stock voltage, the temps in nVMonitor are 28C idle, 38C under dual prime95, I'm sure they can't be this low. here's my CPU info: Opteron 165 OSA165DAA6CD CCBWE 0547TPMW BTW, has anyone confirmed exactly how much the temps are off by, or does it vary? I'm afraid to overclock too much without accurate temps.
  14. UPDATE: I'm finally installing windows, I connected the HD to the NF4 controller, set the jumper on the drive to force it into SATA150 mode, and then disabled the silicone images controller (not sure if that was necessary but I'm not using it atm anyway...) A little frustrating, though, considering the only reason I bought this drive instead of a WD with the same specs was cause it had SATA3.0 and the WD had SATA150.
  15. Thanks! Ok I moved the hard drive to the silicone image controller, because the controller is an SATA150 I moved the jumper on the hard drive to the SATA150 location. Now windows will go into the blue setup screen but when I hit enter to continue setup it gives me a message saying that windows setup cannot continue because it cannot locate any hard disk drives, and it prompts me to press F3 to reboot. In my BIOS I have the SiI3114 S-ATA RAID Control set to "SATA" and the two Internal Phy SATA options above it are set to "enable". I'm going to try disabling those two, and then I'm going to try reconnecting the drive to the NF4 controller but leaving the jumper on the drive to SATA150 mode
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