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About Roger_D25

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  1. That is good to know soundx98, I've been wondering about that labeling since I first installed the plugin. Too bad it can't be changed but I don't even notice it anymore like you mentioned. On a side note I wonder why the author never released the souce code? I'm not expert when it comes to writting/modding progams like this but if the code was released would people be able to make those kind of changes and keep the program updated? If so maybe we should ask the author nicely to make the code public?
  2. I'd be happy to take a look, post back soon. Just checked it out sswilson, Everything looks great, at first I thought that your first screenshot needed to have an instance of Everest Home Edition but that is no longer needed but can be an optional screenie as picture #5 if you want. I am fairly certain you included everything and included it in the corrent order using the correct programs. I'm sure somebody will let you know otherwise but I think your in the clear! Good job by the way, that 3700 of yours is a nice overclocker.
  3. Good point supertux1, I just assumed we were suppose to use the "In Place Large FFT's (maximum heat, power consumption, and some RAM tested"? There may be a way to know what test people have been using from their screenshots but I wasn't able to?
  4. Hey Guys, I was just looking through the OCDB when I noticed that two of my screenshots are missing. After some imvestigation I realized that when I go to the "Edit" screen the code for the shots is there but the image just doesn't come up. So I went over to imageshack to see what happened, well the code is there as well but I'm unable to view the shots. I don't know if the entry should be deleted or if I should just wait a bit because they were working recenlty, I'm hoping that imageshack is just messed up at the moment? I have saved the entry info so if it does get deleted I can post it again once image shack restores my images? I just wanted to give a heads up.
  5. Don't take this the wrong way guys but it's extremely easy to know what is needed in the overclocking database. If your not sure look through the 100+ accepted ones for pointers! It does take a bit of effort to make it happen (screenshots, multiple benchmark runs, etc...) but it can be done. Read these two first threads as they clearly explain what is needed/expected for your entry to be accepted. http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10192 http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61056 I think one of the reasons there are so many rules is that it makes it much easier for others to view and find info when their looking through the entries. This database is not so much for show off your overclocking abilities but to show others what settings worked with what hardware, etc... Don't give up, keep testing and posting your setup as it really is helpful to others looking for specific info!
  6. In my case Prime95 and memtest will usually fail on me before OCCT does, that is to say that OCCT will usually run through with no problems even if I would fail Prime95 or Memtest at those same settings. I use OCCT mostly for the nifty voltage/temp graphs it produces upon completion of test. If your Prime stable for 12+hrs and you can run Memtest for multiple passes without much issue than I'd feel pretty comfortable that things are stable. With that said I do wonder whys it's failing on you, maybe try uninstalling and then reinstalling it, just a suggestion?
  7. Hey Guys, I just barely got MBM working on my system for the first time, well first time using the nF4 MBMData file and also using the (MBMNVdriver_v7_22_ALL.rar) to get MBM to read my GPU temps, clock speed, and memory speed (NV card). Fortunelty after a few tries I got it to work correclty. The only question I have is about the dashboard. In my dashboard the Core Clock and Memory Clock are reading in degrees C or F instead of MHz like the CPU Clock speed does. Is there anyway to edit the dashboard file so that the graphic card clock speeds read in MHz instead of Degrees C or F? Not a bit deal but it would really polish this program up! Thanks for any help you can give!
  8. Hey Retratserif, I just barely got my SLI-D, before that I had an Expert and tried many different BIOS versions from TMODS CD. I actually had the best results using the same BIOS version as you except I used the modded version (still the same BIOS, just has more relaxed timings to help out with booting). Here's the linky to my recent Overclocking Database entry which might help with some settings to start out with on that BIOS if you try it out. http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showpost.p...7&postcount=290 PS, Does anyone know what date comes up when using E704-2BTA from TMODS CD?
  9. Your not kidding ocnewbie! Running 24hr prime95 stable with RAM running at 280+ @ 3-3-2-1 (even with divider) and his 165 up over 3.1Ghz (345 x 9), great job! Keep it up man, that is amazing! I still havn't seen the prime screenie but obviously it's there if others are seeing it.
  10. I don't know OldGuy, I see absolutly nothing at all under "Prime95 + 3dMark2001SE + CPU-Z", no linky broke or fixed? It might be something to do with my browswer though as I'm using FF.
  11. What benchies are you running and how do you know their only recognising one card? Sometimes the "System Info" option within benchmarks are not correct? Just a thought, especially since everything else is recognizing them?
  12. Hey Guys, I just recenlty sold my Expert with thoughts of getting an older non-Expert board. Unfortuenlty after talking with many people here I have come to the conclusion that there was no reason to make the switch to the older non-Expert motherboard over the Expert! Long story short my motherboard has sold and now I need to get another board. Fortunlety my next door neighbor just bought a new Expert last week and got it Friday. After having it installed for about 2hrs he pulled it out and installed his old Asus A8N-SLI because he couldn't get it stable at his old clockspeed (Obviously he doesn't have much patience because he didn't even give it a go). There can be a steep learing curve with the DFI boards if you have always used Asus boards in the past which he had. Anyway the reason I'm posting is because he's offered to sell me the board for a resonable price (only about $40 dollars more than I sold mine for) instead of paying for shipping and waiting for a refund from the EGG. This will be cheaper and easier than buying another board online, paying for shipping, and waiting for it to come. Last but not least it's also cheaper than buying the older non-expert SLI-DR which is more expensive than the Expert right now (online retail price). The reason I'm writting is this, my Expert was bought when they first came out, one of the first revisions. My neighbors board is much newer as it was purchased almost a year after mine. Below are the two reversion #'s, does anyone have any idea at all what the differences are between the two revisions? This will help me to know which board to keep and which one to sell. My Revision: NF4E91-100. R.AAO His Revision: NF4E98-100 R.AC1 Thanks for any help or suggestions you may have. Even if you know of a resource that I could use to find the differences would be great! Roger
  13. Rgone, Thank you very much for the explanation above, and sorry to have been so defensive in my reply to you, sometimes our egos can get the best of us, plus I didn't make the connection that you were making a more generalized statement that was no directed to me. The more time I spend tweaking and asking questions about BIOS settings the more I realize the best way to learn is by just trying it for myself (Since everyone's hardware reacts differently). With that said having a basic understanding as to what some of these less intuitive settings do can make all the difference, at least to get a baseline. I really wish I came to this conclusion before putting my Expert up for sale as many people have already offered to purchase it, I just can't go back on my word (It can really suck when someone puts something up for sale and then backs out on it). It will be fun to work with the SLI-DR board as it will only be my second DFI board ever, plus the difference in price isn't that large between what I got paid for it and what the SLI-DR cost. At least at this point I think the best choice would be the SLI-DR. Then again I'll probably regret this for some time to come, especially after everything I've learned from you guys! I'll just have to start back at the begining and slowly and methodically work my way back up to my current stable settngs. Derek, Thanks very much for your reply on the HDD.
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