Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About olympic

  • Rank
  1. I've encountered a strange problem on my RS482/Opteron folding rig. The onboard LAN seems to be stealing about 10% of the CPU cycles! At first I thought it was the onboard video so I tried a PCI video card and it didn't help. After monitoring the task manager for a few minutes, I noticed that the % CPU usage dedicated to folding would drop down as low as 25% every time the LAN would send or receive. So I installed a wireless USB adapter and disabled the onboard LAN and presto! 100% CPU usage for folding and no more fluctuations! Does anyone know what is causing this and how it can be fixed? I have a group of 4 folding rigs running off a 4 port wireless bridge for internet access so I don't want to go out and buy USB adapters for all of them. Thanks!
  2. I have that rad and it measures out to ~95mm center to center.
  3. You need one of these: There's no way to push the blade in too far and you don't have to handle a bare razor with your fingers. Costs less than a buck at WalMart.
  4. Strange request but I need 2 side-panel security switches. Doesn't matter what case they came from as along as they have the standard 2 pin connecter on one end and a functional momentary switch on the other. I know there has to be somebody who has a few of these laying around! I'm willing to pay a reasonable fee+postage.
  5. olympic


    Monarch still has some link. As well as newegg. Apparently Monarch has developed a bad reputation lately so be careful. I ordered this board and an OEM Opty 165 from them a couple weeks back and it arrived no problem. There's also a bunch of these boards in eBay stores if you care to go that route.
  6. I built my first custom computer so I could play HL2.
  7. That's how the rad is mounted. The 2 bottom fan screws attach to the lip of the case and 2 aluminum strips brace the top of the rad. Then I filled in the gaps with duct tape. Took about 15 minutes to do. I put four 120mm fans on the rad, 2 front, 2 rear. All of them move air in the same direction ie-front to back. When you get your case, take it completely apart. Front bezel, side panels, everything. Then you can study it and find all the places you can hide wires. There's lots of nice spots in the Armor. As for the group of cables hanging from the top of the case, I ran them behind the motherboard because the matching connecters were right at the bottom of the MB.
  8. I just put together a silver Armor case with WC and a front mounted rad. Pics can be seen here http://www.tempo-topaz-performance.com/TTArmor/ There's plenty of places to hide wires in this case. If you remove the panel opposite the window, there's about 3/4" of space in there to run your wires. You can also hide some in or behind the drive bays. Smaller wires can be run underneath the motherboard.
  9. I have an RS482 and considered doing that as well, but the chipset runs very cool so I never bothered. A little airflow is all it needs, even at 300FSB.
  10. Whatever those "essential oils" are may leave a film on the CPU, I wouldn't use it. Can you buy a CD/DVD cleaning kit or LCD cleaning kit? Most of those come with a small bottle of 99% rubbing alcohol.
  11. The 25cm side fan does not have LED's in it but it moves a ton of air. If you have a hot running video card or chipset it really helps with cooling. I mounted two 12" cold cathode tubes in the case and they light everything up nicely, including the side fan. Here's a link to more pics of my rig: http://www.tempo-topaz-performance.com/TTArmor/ #6 and #7 show the two 120mm LED radiator fans mounted in the front. It took a little creativity to mount the rad there but nothing too difficult. The bottom is secured with the 2 bottom fan screws to a lip of the case. On top I fashioned some brackets out of strips of aluminum. Then I sealed the gaps between the rad and case with duct tape. I should also mention that there is a model of this case that doesn't have the big side intake fan.
  • Create New...