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About mikemcc

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  1. Well, oddly enough, it was my power supply. I have an Antec Smart Power 500 that I was using in this system. It would seemingly power on the system with no problems, but, as I said in my original message, it wouldn't POST. So, just before I ordered a new MB, I decided to once again take my Sista out of the case and run it on a piece of cardboard. This time, though, I hooked it up to the PS -- an old Antec 430 -- that was in an old system that I have just kind of sitting around. Attached to the old PS, it POSTed just like it was supposed to and the memory LED was lit. I couldn't believe it was the PS, but I placed that old PS into the case, replaced the Sista, stuck in my RAM and it has been running flawlessly ever since. I don't know a whole lot about power supplies, so I don't know why it would seem to work to start up the system, but it wouldn't send juice to the memory. I'm sure glad I didn't spend the money on a new MB because I love my Sista. It can be a pain in the arse to get dialed in, but once I do, it runs like a charm. I already have an RMA request sent in to Antec. This is the second RMA on the SP-500. I think when I get the replacement, I'll just e-Bay it since it will be brand new and I'll buy a reliable OCZ instead. That's what I use in my main system and it hasn't so much as hiccuped in the nearly year since I have had it. Though I usually like Antec PS, this Smart Power has been nothing but problems since I bought it. I'd just leave the old Antec 430 attached to my Sista, but that PS doesn't have the additional 12v plug for the socket under the processor. Or, is there an adapter that I can get to hook up to a Molex connector or something like that? I kind of want to hang on to the new OCZ that I am going to buy to use with a new build that I'll do in November or December. (That will depend on what kind of killer deals I can get on Black Friday.)
  2. This message is not about the system in my sig. It is my boys' system -- a LanParty NFII Ultra B that appears to be dead. I have been trying to boot the system and it quickly blinks the 3rd LED and then goes immediately to the top two LEDs on and the bottom two off. Every few times I try to boot I get the same two LEDs, but also a long beep. The memory LED blinks once and then stays off. I have tried with numerous RAM sticks -- PC2100 256K, PC2700 512K, PC3200 256K, PC3200 1G in different slots with the same result. I also had a spare BIOS chip here that I know was good and when I swapped it in, I got the same LEDs and behavior. I have also done the long CMOS clear with no changes at all. It pretty much sounds like it is hosed, right? I have had this out of the case, stripped down to just the vid card and nothing else, and no changes. Any suggestions before I consign this to the trash heap of computer parts in my garage? This has been a great board, so if it has to go, it has done all right by me for years, but I'd kinda like to keep it if there is anything I can do. Plus, my boys are gonna FREAK if they can't play BF2...
  3. Programer -- I don't know if this will help, but it wouldn't hurt to try the User Profile Hive Cleanup Service from Microsoft. I was practically pulling my hair out trying to find out why Windows would not shut down properly until I read this from Microsoft: http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details...&displaylang=en (If that hideously long link doesn't work, just google "User Profile Hive Cleanup Service" and the bulletin from MS should be the first hit.) Like I said, it wouldn't hurt to give this a try. It'll only take 10 minutes and if it doesn't work you can just get rid of it. It solved my problem. However, don't overlook the hardware issues mentioned above, though it does sound like you are looking into those things.
  4. Bloodwolf -- you can get a new BIOS chip from biosmedic.com. That site is run by T-mod, the fellow here who provides some of the BIOS revisions that you can burn to a CD. There are also instructions there on how to hotflash your BIOS chip if you have access to another machine at your house or a friend's. (There are also instructions on how to do that here somewhere, probably in the BIOS Factory forum.) You can also send your chip in for reprogramming -- that's like $7. There are also other places on the web where you can find new BIOS chips. In some cases, DFI will reprogram your chip for free or send you a new one if you explain to them your problem. From what I have heard, though, that takes a bit longer.
  5. Jay, I'm not sure what caused this, but before you RMA your board, you might try hotflashing your BIOS chip. It's easy to do and there are instructions in the BIOS forum and also on www.biosmedic.com. You do need another system to use -- do you have another machine in your house or a friend who has a machine to do the swap? If not, you could send the chip to Tmod at biosmedic and he will reprogram it for you -- it's only like $7 or $8 and the turnaround is fast. There are also other places you can find on the web, though biosmedic is the one I would recommend. You might also pick up a spare BIOS chip -- having an extra is always nice to have. If you write an e-mail to DFI, they may send you a programmed chip for free or may reprogram yours for free, though I think Terry will do it faster.
  6. I had a very good experience with this seller -- I bought the 9700 Pro -- and would buy from him again. Just wanted to let you all know.
  7. Man, looking at the dates in this thread, that was one LONG BIOS clear! Seriously, though, if you want some info about pulling a BIOS chip or hot flashing, take a look at biosmedic.com. That is run by Tmod, a respected member here, and he gives some very helpful info. He will also reprogram your BIOS chip or sell you a spare. BTW, I find the best way to remove a BIOS chip is with a straightened out paper clip with a tiny bend on one end. Works better than chip pullers for me.
  8. I bought the HZ kit in mid-December and paid $237!! That may seem like a lot, but once I got my OC ironed out, I have been running them at 286 MHz 1:1 ever since with not one hiccup. (See sig for details.) Even though they are now ~$90 less, I'd pay $237 again for this particular kit. At that time the new Mushkin Redlines and the OCZ EBs were in the $330 range, and there seemed to be some problems with many of them -- reports of high benchies but an inability to keep the high OCs in 3D games -- there are several threads about that here and at least a couple of independent reviews at other sites, though I don't have time to search for them right now. So, all in all, I still think of these sticks as a real bargain and one of the smartest things I bought when I built this rig. Like I said, I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
  9. I don't know where your closest DFI facility is, xerck, but DFI will make repairs at a pretty reasonable price if the board is out of warranty. And, if you send it to them and they see that a capacitor leaked, they might even repair it for free, again, even if it is out of warranty. I have heard from others that DFI is very good about repairing things of this sort. Plus, their turnaround time is reasonable -- though I have only heard about that in terms of the US site. Don't know much about others, but it sure is worth a try. Check with DFI or shoot Angry or R_gone a message and ask where you can send your board.
  10. Check out biosmedic.com. T-mod is a respected member here and he runs that site. He can send you a spare BIOS chip with whatever BIOS you want on it. There are also instructions on how to use a good BIOS chip to hot-flash one that is corrupted. That way you'll always have two good BIOS chips, no matter what happens. And yes, to answer your question, I'd be willing to bet dollars to doughnuts that a spare BIOS chip is all you needed to get your board going. Of course, any board can just be bad, and that is possible here. However, it is far more likely that it was just a BIOS chip that got corrupted after hardware was added and then the CMOS didn't get cleared. Now, to *flash* a BIOS -- not hot-flash -- you don't need a spare BIOS chip. You just need a CD or floppy to do that. Problem is, you can't start from a chip that has a corrupted CMOS, it has to be good. And it is while flashing a BIOS that problems sometimes crop up and it's really nice to have a spare chip to just pop in and fix things. Check out the sticky threads in the BIOS Factory section of this forum for instructions on how to flash a BIOS. A CMOS can get corrupted while you are doing OCing things like changing RAM timings and that sort of stuff so it is really nice to have that spare sitting around for peace of mind.
  11. No, this shouldn't effect performance, other than it will improve since your computer should work! Once you do this, reformat your secondary HD. You can temporarily move anything you want to keep to your primary and then move it back afterwards. I'm pretty sure you have to actually call Maxtor and describe your problems before they will send you a link to the firmware. I don't think they post them for public use on their website.
  12. Good luck with the new board when it comes back. If you follow the build guide you won't have any problems at all. While you are waiting for the return board, you might consider ordering a spare BIOS chip -- there are lots of places online that sell them ($15). Or an IOSS Bios Savior ($24). This is probably only necessary if you plan to OC, though. If you are going to OC, it is really nice to have a spare BIOS chip sitting in the drawer. As much as I like these DFI boards and wouldn't want to use anything else, (because I OC), they do seem a bit more susceptible to getting a corrupt BIOS than some other boards, though, to be sure, this can happen with any board. As long as you know that going in and you have a spare sitting around, it really isn't a problem. If you aren't going to OC, a spare probably isn't absolutely necessary, though if someone isn't going to OC, I'm not sure why they would buy one of these boards in the first place. If I wasn't going to OC, I'd go with Asus or one of the really good cheaper boards that are out there.
  13. They aren't exactly the same. If you use the Evercool, (which is really a VGA cooler) you have to bend the little copper mounts just a tiny bit to get them to fit on the NB. But then it snaps right in and maintains good contact with the chip. You don't have to bend the mounts if you use the Evercool for the video cards it is designed for.
  14. This doesn't sound like a problem at all... What are your ambient temps there in New Zealand? Is your ambient temp pretty stable in your room? It sounds to me like your copper heatsink is being pretty efficient and getting your CPU cooled nearly on its own. Also, if you have your CPU fan set to come on at a certain temp in BIOS, that's what may be going on. At either fan speed your CPU fan comes on when your CPU reaches the specified temp. However, your max fan setting may cool the CPU down faster than your low fan setting does and then it throttles down or turns off until it again reaches that specified temp. I don't know how quiet your Zalman is, but if it is as quiet as the Panaflo fan that I use, you might not even notice this happening. In this case, if your copper HS is really good and ambient temps are a bit low, you will see pretty stable temps whether you are using your low or max fan settings. What may actually change is how long the fan (at each speed) keeps running and when it throttles down and up. So, over the course of, say, an hour, your fan on max may run 10% less than your fan when it is set to low. You may not see any difference in your CPU temps because the variable becomes how long your fans run at top speed at the two fan speed settings. In the summer when things get warm (does it get warm in NZ?), you may see a bit more variation in temps. You also may notice more of a difference when you finally close up your case.
  15. I had an Opteron 165 for a while and your temps seem pretty similar to the ones I had. If you want your CPU fan to stay on all the time, you can change the temp settings for fan shutdown and startup in BIOS. You can also control what temp your case fan and chipset fan come on and go off.
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