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Everything posted by RobFritts

  1. That's where I bought mine, svc.com, through a link here at the DIY store front thing. Don't know how reputable they are as I hadn't heard of them or used them before, but they got it here plenty quick. I'm disappointed in New Egg being out of stock again. It shows some supply chain management issues but hopefully they don't go beyond this one manufacturer.
  2. That'd be quite a CPU cooler to interfere w/ the chipset heat sink. In other news, the Evercool VC-RE is back in stock at Newegg, two weeks after I had to order mine elsewhere...
  3. Holy crap what a difference! Drops of 5C CPU, 4C PWMIC, 16C CHIPSET and 7C GPU. No pics of the GPU - used to idle @ 45C, now idles at 38C. Before and after temps at idle: This was accomplished by the following changes: Stock NF4 fan replaced with Evercool VC-RE Added Antec PCI slot 15CFM intake fan under GPU. Replaced CPU panaflo fan w/ identical one w/ an RPM sensor on it (X at end of model#) Moved top exhaust fan to different header (not PWMIC) since it doesn't cool that part I didn't need to know it's RPMs (may add a specific one for that region later) Cleaned all intake/exhaust filters Cleaned out a massive amount of dust in the CPU heatsink I think I'd have better cooling if I hadn't blocked my front intake w/ three more hard drives next to the first one. The 3 new drives are all 7200 rpm so hopefully not too hot under load. "After" temps taken at ambient temp of ~21C. "Before" temps taken at an ambient temp of ~23C. Once it warms up again I expect it'll add a few C to my temps above. It's also worth mentioning that the difference in CHIPSET temps benefits from all the above, but probably most by the increased RPMs of the new fan and more importantly, I think the old fan was failing at the time I took the "before" pic. That explains why it was so high to begin with I think. It was highly stressful changing out that stupid fan. I haven't had my machine gutted like that since I put it together. I wish I'd done it at that time instead. And those damned springs were so tight I almost put out an eye when the pins flew out. Overall I'd say it was worth the effort to get these temps, particularly since the fan was failing and soon to completely go down anyway. Only advice: use the right tools (needle nose pliers) and keep screw drivers away from the traces on your board (I scratched mine, hence the stress, but apparently I didn't break anything). As always, thanks for the forums and the help in figuring out how to do these things.
  4. d'oh... forgot I had AdBlock installed... turned it off and the banner showed up... Got it set to leave ads on diy-street now...
  5. Where's the banner for newegg? {edit} Nevermind... Found it. Sometimes I forget I have AdBlock installed. Had it turned off at DFI-street, forgot to disable it here when I found it had moved to DIY-street.
  6. Great thread. This might ought to be stickied. I bought the same board about 2 years ago and the stock chipset HSF is also failing for me (loud vibration), which is how I got here...
  7. You're kidding, right? No one expects people to read the entire forum. However, I think it's fair to ask that people read the sticky posts and particularly the guides. That's the answer to both your point and your specific question. If your time is more valuable than to spend it reading, then mine is too valuable to spend answering your questions. There's a reason they're called "Frequently Asked Questions."
  8. Wow. This question is still being asked? Makes you wonder if people ever actually spent time reading before posting... Speaking of which, so that this is not a flame, or at least a smaller one... YES!!! ALL FOUR POWER CONNECTIONS ARE REALLY NECESSARY. Strictly speaking, you can do whatever you want to if your rig is still stable at the end. However, why tempt fate? Just plug the damned things in and it's one thing you won't have to troubleshoot later.
  9. Where did you find this setting? Within windows or in the BIOS? Also, when you guys are talking about Nvidia LAN or Marvell LAN, how do you distinguish between the two?
  10. Just a couple of thoughts here... It would be really useful if someone has a transcript of the tweaks done here and could post it. At least it would be useful to me so I can just have a written check list to go through and do them. And it would save me from writing my own transcript from the video! :-) Also, if there's anyone in the community that knows how to program for windows, I wonder how hard it would be to make a program or script that performs all of those tweaks for you, or better yet, offers them to you and you can select which ones you want to do or not do. I obviously don't expect this from AG or the other DFI support guys, but it seems like a plausible and useful couple of things the community could provide. I don't know how to code for modifying windows settings, but if there's not a transcript posted by the time I get mine done, I'll take some time and post it here as a follow up. Thanks, Rob
  11. Initially, neither stick would boot my machine (hence my freaking out thread). I sent my stuff to Angry after getting frustrated and he diagnosed it immediately as RAM and OCZ RMA'd it for me. Initial testing of the new kit went 1 stick at a time. Each stick was tested with the same BIOS settings (optimized) and DRAM was auto on everything. The result was good boot with both sticks at 2.5-3-2-5 at 1T in Dual channel mode. Each tested good for 24hrs in memtest (dunno how many passes, but lots of them on all tests and 0 errors. I then tried them together and was successful with the pair of them at the same auto settings for another 24 hrs. Right now I'm trying the OCZ recommended settings for our kits (OCZ4002048ELDCPE-K) that they had posted on the bleedinedge.com forums. They boot at 1T, 2-3-2-8. I dunno the significance of 2.5 dropping to 2 or 5 rising to 8, but it's what they had so I'm giving it a shot to see if the RAM is stable there. It at least boots and 0 errors so far at 2 hrs memtest (roughly 2 passes on 2x1024 kit), so I think I'll save this config to the reloaded thing too and maybe performance test between the two later.
  12. D'oh. When I ordered it, I didn't realize there were RPM and non-RPM versions... damn it, lol. Guess I'm in the market for a new CPU fan and can move this one to the case or something. How retarded I must be, lol. Thanks for the quick answer. -Rob
  13. ** note - resolved, see post 4 ** I've searched the forums and not found this particular issue for any fan that has it's RPM measured by the chipset. When I go to the PC Health section in the BIOS, 2 of them are working, but the CPU fan indicate 0 RPM even though it is in motion sitting here on the table next to me... Fan issue? Board/sensor issue? I'll try frogging the leads I guess and see if the 0 RPM follows the fan or the board connection. Thanks, Rob
  14. Interesting.. I had to RMA the same RAM with my setup. It's working now and I'm going through the memtest again after trying OCZ's recommended settings for those sticks. Good luck.
  15. Situation resolved. Memory was defective. Rig now posts and RAM clears memtest86+ 24hrs on each stick and the pair together with 0 errors. Thank you very much to Angry for taking the time to diagnose my hardware. Thank you very much to OCZ for a hassle-free RMA. FYI - Don't take my experience as indicative of most, or any other, experience. I got into this at a time when I had little time to put towards it and that caused a 2-3 week ordeal to turn into a 4 month process in frustration. I will note the thread as resolved now and link the first post to this one. Thanks for everyone's help. Regards, Rob PS - Sig updated to reflect bios version and ram timing/mode.
  16. just a follow up here... RAM seems to be the culprit. As rare as 2 bad one's are in a single kit, that's what it appears to be... RMA'ing them and will follow up with more info as it develops...
  17. Man, exciting thread... Congrats on your success. I wish you more of it. In regards to the PSU, I highly recommend the OCZ Powerstream 600W, if for no other reason than their warranty and support over at bleedingedge (same reason I got a DFI). If you don't go the powerstream route, still look to a high end 600+W PSU with ATX/BTX compatibility, SLI-ready and appropriate connectors for the expert. The picture of the power connector on the expert surprised me as I thought the 8pin connector was a BTX spec. With all your drives, your OC, a 7900 and possibly the addition of another 7900 down the road... well, 600W would be appropriate. See this thread for PSU recommendations from the DFI-street folks: Recommended! - NF4 Ultra/SLI Mobos:PowerSupplies
  18. @ h41t3r @ bent98 Did either of you guys get your issues resolved? What was the problem?
  19. supraboytt: Wichita Falls is about 2.5hrs NW of Plano... Thanks very much for the offer, I may just have to take you up on it. That may work out well one of these weekends. I may be RMA'ing the RAM and/or testing with some spare that the local store has. I'm at a loss as to what else it might be now that the board has been RMA'd, CPU tests good in other systems and PSU seems up to spec on rail voltages. I'll drop you a line if I don't get this figured out soon. Thanks again, Rob
  20. I've double and triple checked my power connections... All 4 are on the board as listed in many threads on here... 24pin, 4 pin next to 24pin, molex and FDD power connector... As a follow up, I just got done testing my power supply rails, everything seems to be in line... 3.38V, 5.21V and 12.26V for the rails... And the ATX power connector matched the pinout voltages posted over at OCZ's power supply support forums. Again, no video is coming out... Should there be prior to RAM clearing the diag LEDs?
  21. Well, I guess it's not a board problem... or I've got two bad ones in a row or the Egg shipped back the same one I sent in on RMA. The same problem persists after RMA'ing the board. I get three LEDs... Same as if I have no RAM installed in the board at all. Doesn't matter where I put either stick, they don't clear the board diagnostic LEDs. Should I be getting video out at this point (I'm not) or would that not be possible until after the RAM and Video card are detected? I'm seriously at a loss as to what or how to test at this point. Each component has been independently tested at a local computer shop. The CPU posts, the RAM posts, the video card posts and my power supply tested good. So individually, everything seems fine (except the board??) and yet I can't get it to clear anything but the first diagnostic LED. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Rob
  22. adamcerto: You might try creating your own thread too. I plan to relabel this one as resolved once I get to that point. Assuming that I eventually do, that is.
  23. LOL. I do too. I've got a kick butt machine, too bad it's still in pieces. I'm expecting it go a lot better with the replacement board. If not then at least I know it's user error and maybe I can mail my stuff to Angry and bribe him with booze or something to put it all together for me. Off to work now. Later.
  24. So much for going to bed... Kids are great, aren't they? :-) @Burts: Don't take my experience as indicative of the norm. By far, of all the threads I've read from folks following the build guides, the majority of them are successful. While I know a certain amount of electronics are truely DOA, I also know that I'm just as likely, if not more so, to have done something that hurt it as well. I haven't flashed a bios in forever, but as I recall you don't need to do it with an OS installed and I think it's either done on floppy or maybe CD now days. @ExRoadie: Good idea. I'll try to find a stick somewhere, but we're still pretty new to town and while I've got friends from work, I don't know anyone down here that is into PCs and would have one handy. Maybe the store I took it to? They were pretty cool. I'll talk to them tomorrow before I send it back. Thanks for the suggestion. Later all, Rob PS - Good night for real this time. :-)
  25. yep... I tried the 8hr clear overnight (was more like 10-12 hrs) with same result after all was said and done... I think that's all for me tonight. Gotta be up in 5 hours for work. Thanks for the help.
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