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RobFritts

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About RobFritts

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  1. That's where I bought mine, svc.com, through a link here at the DIY store front thing. Don't know how reputable they are as I hadn't heard of them or used them before, but they got it here plenty quick. I'm disappointed in New Egg being out of stock again. It shows some supply chain management issues but hopefully they don't go beyond this one manufacturer.
  2. That'd be quite a CPU cooler to interfere w/ the chipset heat sink. In other news, the Evercool VC-RE is back in stock at Newegg, two weeks after I had to order mine elsewhere...
  3. Holy crap what a difference! Drops of 5C CPU, 4C PWMIC, 16C CHIPSET and 7C GPU. No pics of the GPU - used to idle @ 45C, now idles at 38C. Before and after temps at idle: This was accomplished by the following changes: Stock NF4 fan replaced with Evercool VC-RE Added Antec PCI slot 15CFM intake fan under GPU. Replaced CPU panaflo fan w/ identical one w/ an RPM sensor on it (X at end of model#) Moved top exhaust fan to different header (not PWMIC) since it doesn't cool that part I didn't need to know it's RPMs (may add a specific one for that region later) Cleaned all intake/exhaust filters Cleaned out a massive amount of dust in the CPU heatsink I think I'd have better cooling if I hadn't blocked my front intake w/ three more hard drives next to the first one. The 3 new drives are all 7200 rpm so hopefully not too hot under load. "After" temps taken at ambient temp of ~21C. "Before" temps taken at an ambient temp of ~23C. Once it warms up again I expect it'll add a few C to my temps above. It's also worth mentioning that the difference in CHIPSET temps benefits from all the above, but probably most by the increased RPMs of the new fan and more importantly, I think the old fan was failing at the time I took the "before" pic. That explains why it was so high to begin with I think. It was highly stressful changing out that stupid fan. I haven't had my machine gutted like that since I put it together. I wish I'd done it at that time instead. And those damned springs were so tight I almost put out an eye when the pins flew out. Overall I'd say it was worth the effort to get these temps, particularly since the fan was failing and soon to completely go down anyway. Only advice: use the right tools (needle nose pliers) and keep screw drivers away from the traces on your board (I scratched mine, hence the stress, but apparently I didn't break anything). As always, thanks for the forums and the help in figuring out how to do these things.
  4. d'oh... forgot I had AdBlock installed... turned it off and the banner showed up... Got it set to leave ads on diy-street now...
  5. Where's the banner for newegg? {edit} Nevermind... Found it. Sometimes I forget I have AdBlock installed. Had it turned off at DFI-street, forgot to disable it here when I found it had moved to DIY-street.
  6. Great thread. This might ought to be stickied. I bought the same board about 2 years ago and the stock chipset HSF is also failing for me (loud vibration), which is how I got here...
  7. You're kidding, right? No one expects people to read the entire forum. However, I think it's fair to ask that people read the sticky posts and particularly the guides. That's the answer to both your point and your specific question. If your time is more valuable than to spend it reading, then mine is too valuable to spend answering your questions. There's a reason they're called "Frequently Asked Questions."
  8. Wow. This question is still being asked? Makes you wonder if people ever actually spent time reading before posting... Speaking of which, so that this is not a flame, or at least a smaller one... YES!!! ALL FOUR POWER CONNECTIONS ARE REALLY NECESSARY. Strictly speaking, you can do whatever you want to if your rig is still stable at the end. However, why tempt fate? Just plug the damned things in and it's one thing you won't have to troubleshoot later.
  9. Where did you find this setting? Within windows or in the BIOS? Also, when you guys are talking about Nvidia LAN or Marvell LAN, how do you distinguish between the two?
  10. Just a couple of thoughts here... It would be really useful if someone has a transcript of the tweaks done here and could post it. At least it would be useful to me so I can just have a written check list to go through and do them. And it would save me from writing my own transcript from the video! :-) Also, if there's anyone in the community that knows how to program for windows, I wonder how hard it would be to make a program or script that performs all of those tweaks for you, or better yet, offers them to you and you can select which ones you want to do or not do. I obviously don't expect this from AG or the other DFI support guys, but it seems like a plausible and useful couple of things the community could provide. I don't know how to code for modifying windows settings, but if there's not a transcript posted by the time I get mine done, I'll take some time and post it here as a follow up. Thanks, Rob
  11. Initially, neither stick would boot my machine (hence my freaking out thread). I sent my stuff to Angry after getting frustrated and he diagnosed it immediately as RAM and OCZ RMA'd it for me. Initial testing of the new kit went 1 stick at a time. Each stick was tested with the same BIOS settings (optimized) and DRAM was auto on everything. The result was good boot with both sticks at 2.5-3-2-5 at 1T in Dual channel mode. Each tested good for 24hrs in memtest (dunno how many passes, but lots of them on all tests and 0 errors. I then tried them together and was successful with the pair of them at the same auto settings for another 24 hrs. Right now I'm trying the OCZ recommended settings for our kits (OCZ4002048ELDCPE-K) that they had posted on the bleedinedge.com forums. They boot at 1T, 2-3-2-8. I dunno the significance of 2.5 dropping to 2 or 5 rising to 8, but it's what they had so I'm giving it a shot to see if the RAM is stable there. It at least boots and 0 errors so far at 2 hrs memtest (roughly 2 passes on 2x1024 kit), so I think I'll save this config to the reloaded thing too and maybe performance test between the two later.
  12. D'oh. When I ordered it, I didn't realize there were RPM and non-RPM versions... damn it, lol. Guess I'm in the market for a new CPU fan and can move this one to the case or something. How retarded I must be, lol. Thanks for the quick answer. -Rob
  13. ** note - resolved, see post 4 ** I've searched the forums and not found this particular issue for any fan that has it's RPM measured by the chipset. When I go to the PC Health section in the BIOS, 2 of them are working, but the CPU fan indicate 0 RPM even though it is in motion sitting here on the table next to me... Fan issue? Board/sensor issue? I'll try frogging the leads I guess and see if the 0 RPM follows the fan or the board connection. Thanks, Rob
  14. Interesting.. I had to RMA the same RAM with my setup. It's working now and I'm going through the memtest again after trying OCZ's recommended settings for those sticks. Good luck.
  15. Situation resolved. Memory was defective. Rig now posts and RAM clears memtest86+ 24hrs on each stick and the pair together with 0 errors. Thank you very much to Angry for taking the time to diagnose my hardware. Thank you very much to OCZ for a hassle-free RMA. FYI - Don't take my experience as indicative of most, or any other, experience. I got into this at a time when I had little time to put towards it and that caused a 2-3 week ordeal to turn into a 4 month process in frustration. I will note the thread as resolved now and link the first post to this one. Thanks for everyone's help. Regards, Rob PS - Sig updated to reflect bios version and ram timing/mode.
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