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walmartshopper

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About walmartshopper

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  1. That's possible. The PSU I'm using for now (until I get the OCZ back) is only 480w. It has dual 12v rails, but I'm not exactly sure how that works. It's a modular PSU, but I'm not sure if the two 12v rails are somehow split between the ports or whatever. So it's entirely possible that the load is not balanced. I'll just wait it out until the OCZ comes. I can still get the comp turned on if I wait for a few minutes before pressing the power button. And once it's up, it's nice and stable. So I guess I'll just leave it on unless I really need to shut it down.
  2. There won't be any performance hit. a 7900gt does not fully saturate the 8x bus, so 16x wouldn't buy you any performance.
  3. Crap, I'm using a polyester film capacitor... that's the only kind they had at radio shack. I tried the other one and it didn't work either.
  4. ok, I tried putting it in parallel, now it doesn't do anything. The power switch actually does something now, but the problem is not fixed. It still starts up for a split second then shuts down. The switch on the mobo (which worked when the cap was in series) does the same thing now. I made sure the joints were good. Maybe it is a bad cap. Luckily it came with 2 in the box, so I'll try the other one. Would switching the direction of the cap do anything? I'm no electrician, but it doesn't seem like it would matter. The leads are not marked in any way to indicate a certain direction.
  5. I went to radio shack and got a 0.22uF capacitor to fix the switch bounce problem: So I soldered the cap onto the start circuit, and now the power button on the case does not work anymore. The power button on the mobo does work, and it did solve the problem of the PSU starting then shutting down. So I solved one problem but created a new one. The directions said "anywhere on the start circuit," so I put it on the red wire coming out of the case's power button. Was this a bad place to put it? I have a feeling it was supposed to be on the other side of the power switch.
  6. I increased drive strength to 10 and it's more stable, but I'll keep playing with it. When the board is trying to post, the diagnostic leds flash for 5 or 6 seconds before the beep. The pattern is 3 red, then 4 red, then it blinks twice. It does this 4 or 5 times and then goes 3-2-1 and then finally beeps. It doesn't happen when I run single channel. Does this indicate that the dram settings maybe aren't quite right and the system may not be stable, or should I just not worry about it?
  7. OK, so I thought it was completely fixed, but it's still a little sketchy. The good news is I can actually boot up in dual channel mode and the system is stable. But it's still having some problems posting. On a cold boot with stock speeds, it will usually post normally. Sometimes it will post, but takes an extra 5 or 6 seconds. And a few times it didn't post at all. Overclocking just makes it worse. I'd like to get it running at 250mhz (DDR500) at 2.5-3-3-7, which is where I had it on the Ultra-D. I'm not completely familiar with all the dram settings, so I thought I'd ask before I start tweaking... does anyone have any suggestions on which settings to play with or not to play with to get more stability? Thanks again.
  8. Same problem as this: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread...rt+dual+channel I have the same setup too... same exact ram sticks, same mobo, A64 x2. hmmm.
  9. Hopefully I can solve this quickly, because I only have 12 days to return this mobo if I have to. I've been running an nf4 Ultra-D modded to SLI and it has worked perfectly. I bought an OEM version of the SLI-DR Expert. It was just the mobo itself with no cables or accessories at all, which was fine since it is so similar to the Ultra-D. Anyway, dual channel is not working. I can boot with 2 sticks in single channel and everything works fine (but getting horrible fps). If I put both sticks in the yellow slots or both sticks in the orange slots, I get long beeps and it doesn't POST. I'm using the same settings I used on the Ultra-D. Sometimes it doesn't beep for awhile and seems like it might be working, and then it just sits there and the screen stays off and there are no beeps at all. Any suggestions? The BIOS on the new board is 04/06/2006
  10. Thanks for all the replies guys. I'm pretty sure I don't have any bad cables or bad ram or hdd, since everything in the system works perfectly and 100% stable after I get past the first cold boot. From reading the other forums, it seems to be a bios issue that dfi is aware of and hopefully able to fix, so I'll just hope for a fix to come out soon. I usually leave the comp on 24/7 so it's not too much trouble. It's just a little inconvenient since I have to boot into "safe mode" and then load the overclocked settings. I can live with it though. I'm just thankful for cmos reloaded.
  11. Alright, I just bought and installed an OCZ powerstream 520w. It didn't solve the problem. Any other ideas?
  12. Thanks for the help! I'm new here, so wasn't aware that people were having problems with the antec 480's. That's interesting. Are other people having the exact same symptoms or just boot problems in general? The only other thing I could come up with was that maybe I raised the pci express frequency by accident and it was having trouble detecting the drives. But I checked, and it was locked at 100mhz, so that wasn't the problem. I have an extra 420w PSU that I'm going to try. If the problem goes away with it, I'll look into replacing the antec. I'm assuming you're right about the PSU being the problem, but I don't want to replace it without knowing for sure. I don't remember when I bought it, so I'm not sure if the warranty is still good. :confused:
  13. I'm starting to have some trouble booting using settings that have been working for weeks. Now every time I do a cold boot, it shows the memory timings, then shows "nforce4 ultra" for about 10 seconds. Then it finally detects the IDE drives and SATA 3 & 4. Then it just says "Detecting IDE Drives..." and stops there. I can't even get into BIOS. If I clear CMOS and reboot, it works fine. Then if I load the same settings (2700mhz) and reboot, it works perfectly. And any following reboot works perfectly. When I finally get it running with the overclocked settings, I have absolutely no stability problems and I can game for hours without a hitch. But as soon as I power down and try to start it again, no boot. The same problem occurs at lower OC settings like 2500mhz and 2600mhz. But the funny thing is, all these OC settings have been working since I got the board. I hadn't changed any settings before this happened. I was wondering about the Maxtor drives since it always stops when it should be detecting them. But it also takes an extra long time before it detects the rest of the drives. And once I get it to work once, any reboots detect the drive successfully, and the drives themselves do not have any problems. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. I think I'll try to reproduce the problem at stock speeds. Also, is there a way to clear CMOS without having using the jumper or battery? They are both underneath my hard drives and it's a major pain to clear CMOS. A few times, it's booted into some kind of safe mode after I've tried rebooting a certain number of times. What are the requirements for it to boot into safe mode, because doing that would be much easier than clearing CMOS.
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