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Posts posted by no_nonsense4857

  1. I'm running windows 7 on 2x1GB (both with a dual core, and a single core + lanparties). It runs fine. 4x1GB is a little work to get running. My opty 144 would do it without batting an eye (even heavily overclocked), however, it was a bit more work to get it running on my 180, before one of the sets of memory started having problems.


    If you're going to try, the same modules will be easier.


    Well that is exactly what i'm shooting for.


    New egg is listing this RAM on a 'on and off' basis. Luckily its still the same model number and timings. Only thing that scares me is after buying the sticks, i get to know that it was a bad decision.


    Spending 90 USD makes sense rather than spending a bomb on a new system....


    Wanted to confirm this with other DFI mobo users if 4 X 1 GB of the SAME RAM is fine.


    Still holding back on the purchase and will wait for you DFIers to comment.

  2. DFI users, i need some help here.


    Can i just go ahead and pop in two more sticks of the same Mushkin Redline (model # 991493) without . off my mobo?


    My finances allows me to do only this one upgrade and may be one with the graphic card some where next year. I still believe the Opteron + 4 GB + say a Radeon 5xxx series would keep it working smoothly with games in say medium candy for the entire 2010.


    Planning for a upgrade to Windows 7. Hence this thought of going up on the RAM.


    Please advise.

  3. Hi ganders75,

    You almost shocked by my question :D


    Thanks for the link. Too lazy and i thought 'i know it' :P . Now, all wrong notions down the drain. Its really on my to-do list when i get the arctic silencer for my graphic card... hopefully a evercool too :)


    Usually get my stuff from newegg and keep my fingers crossed so that somebody gets it back to India. Unlucky that there was not even one shop selling the NV Silencer5 (7800GT)...

    Finally got a friend to buy it from yoyotech.co.uk. Waiting for him to get back and get ahead with the lapping and other stuff.


    Could you suggest any online store in the UK where i could get the evercool vc-re?


    Thank you.

  4. What I'm thinking is 2 fold:

    1) That CPU doesn't look like you've lapped it - so I'm going to assume that you haven't lapped the BT either. Maybe the BT and the HSF on the CPU aren't in very good contact due to irregularities on the surface of one or the other (lapping them both will fix this)


    2) Maybe inside between the HSF and the chip itself on the CPU aren't in good contact. Only option would be to pop it off (thus voiding any sort of warranty) and run it naked. This is a pretty risky business - especially with something the size of that Big Typhoon sitting on top of it.


    Hi ganders75,

    I've done lapping of iron cubes in our engineering lab. Hence, i understand what forces are exerted while holding it in a vice and lapping it...

    but how would you lap the surface of the processor or for that matter, lap the surface of a heat spreader (given that you would not be able to take off the copper tubes). I have no idea of that 'chemically lapped' process too..

    I could use the option 2 in case i go the water cooling way.

  5. Hi Wil,

    Superb cable management :) n a transaprent HDD that too mounted face front.... guess you can park your car inside that cabinet of yours..... evercool, bigtyphoon..... all that 120 mm nirvana......... great system.


    Hi AnUnknownSource,

    i just did not want to give up on the fact that my stock setting would scale up to 50C at load. Guess, i'll have to live with it. So, once taken into consideration..... it dose'nt hurt me much.

    Planning to get a evercool.... so i'll be forced to take out the mobo..... will make sure that the AS5 is properly applied.

    The mounting of the bigtyphoon is a bit slant because the clamps through holes are a bit offset to the horizontal axis.

    My room was at a warm 25C when running orthos.

  6. hi technodanvan,


    I have a case with decent ventilation. I'll post a pic once i'm back home.


    I opened up the side cover and also pointed another fan directly at the BigTyphoon. All i got was a reduction in temps by two degrees.... 47-48C in this case. So, i presume that the ventilation has nothing to do with my problem. What say you?



  7. Thank you very much for your patience fellow diyers :)


    I did take out the BigTyphoon and reseat it... two rice grains... n a bit of the oozed out AS5



    Reseating the BT is a real pain in the butt, need to be very careful, else its a cantilever waiting to rip your mobo off.


    Now, i could not reason it out, but the restarting problem has not occurred till now.


    But, the temps are still up there.


    I've given special attention to powering the mobo like soundx98 advised. Also, its NOT a antec true blue (neways, i'll deal with the temp problem for now).



    longer the suggestion, better the digestion. Could'nt slap her cos, she's got this sub 2 KG rotating mass on the processor :D

  8. Hi soundx98,


    I was trying out different options available because of the below problems...


    a) Once i enter the password and hit enter (win XP logon), i log in and in a span of 10 seconds, the computer restarts. When logged in the second time, its stable.


    B) The bios shows 44C. WinXP shows approx 40C (soon after logon) and it comes down to 34C after running idle for a minute or so.


    c) When i run two instances of prime95, the temps rise to 50C.


    Given this scenario, do i have a chance to overclock at all :sad:


    I went through various threads here and below are some cues i picked up...


    AMD Driver & Optimizer.

    I have installed the recent AMD WinXP Driver and then went ahead and installed the dual core optimizer. As advised in many posts, i have not run the MS Hotfix as the recent AMD drivers do everything.


    Bios settings.

    The are set to optimized defaults.


    Power connectors on the DFI board.

    All the 4 connectors in place from day one.


    External USB Devices conflict.

    I have no USB devices on the system.


    Temperature tracking s/w conflict.

    Uninstalled all the sofwares tracking temperatures (smart guardian, core temp, everest). Still both the problems remain.


    Automatic Restart.

    Unchecked the 'Restart Automatically' option in Advanced Options.



    Right now, i am not worrying about the restarting. My worry is the temps. Is 50C with dual instances of prime normal for a stock Opteron 180 (room temp at 24C)? :confused:


    Any suggestions would be very helpful.

  9. Hi DFIers,


    I had a CPU temperature problem which was discussed here...



    I was suggested coretemp by oc newbie and on installing it, i now could see 'two' temperatures of the two cores.


    ITE Smartguardian does not do that.


    Also, the polling rate of both the reporting programs are different, so the average is not always accurate.


    Now i see a difference of nearly 9C :confused: Is that normal or is there a problem and i must ask for a replacement?


    Please help.



  10. Bios is loaded but not at 100% I think it is around 40% if I remember right. What are your core temp's reading at in coretemp or everest? I would also get a fan blowing on your pwmic to get that temp down too.

    Hi oc,


    In this case, 44C at 40% load is bad :(

    I've not tried everest and coretemp. Will google them up and post the temps reported by them.


    I am not worrying about the pwmic temps, cos i got to know from here that they can run @ 70 - 80C without any problems.


    I'll post a pic of my cabinet asap. I'll have to deal with the pwmic temps when overclocking, so will look into that once i'm done with the cpu temp problem.

  11. Thanks MadZalmanModder.

    I felt the same too, regarding the logic behind bios reporting 44C. Good to have a confirmation :)

    Would the cpu still be running at 100% if i opt to run memtest from the bios? Just curious.


    With regards to the screen shot below.

    I ran two instances of prime95 and was tracking the cpu temps. Here is the confusing part. Within the OS and @ 100% load, the cpu heats up to 50C.



    If the cpu is running @ 100% in the bios and reporting 44C. Then why is it reporting 50C when its run at 100% once inside the OS?

  12. Hi helpers,


    I was lucky enough to lay my hands on the opteron 180 for my nF4 UltraD.


    The upgrade was a see saw ride for me. You can read it here:



    I have an observation to make and ask for your help...

    My system restarts when i try to log in to Windows XP. But it goes through fine the second time without any problems.


    I installed ITE Smart Guardian and as soon as i log on, it reports a CPU temperature of 40C. Then in a minute, it settles down to a comfortable 33C. Is this normal?


    Also, i restarted and got into the bios and observed that it reads the CPU temp at 44C. I have enabled the shut down feature in the bios to 60C.


    But please could anybody help me out with this observation.


    I did not reinstall XP (its SP2 with all patches). Instead, i just changed the processor and RAM.

  13. Upgrading my system was a adventure.....


    Got a vaccum cleaner to 'cleanse' the comp.


    It had been nearly a year since i really took out the cover to do something inside . So, i was surprised that i had put so many connectors to power the DFI. 4 to be precise. Wrote them down on paper so that i check them off before powering on the revised system.


    Got the old 3700+ and the OCZ sticks out and plugged the new opteron and muskins.... Now, my first road block!!


    The height of the mushkins, did'nt do well with the BiG Typhoon :( And the worst part is that, i get to know this when i've seated it on the processor! So, i took the risk of tightening it though it touched the RAM Sinks.


    Every thing back........ powered on the system. And in 5 minutes, the system restarts :mad:


    I was paranoid at that point. Believe me, getting this stuff from US to India was a movie in its own. And after all that, i get to this point where another good component had to be junked for now.


    Took out the Big Typhoon and replaced it with the stock AMD cooler. Every thing went fine. But after the luxury of the typhoon, the stock cooler was CRAP.


    The Opteron 180 was hitting 49 - 54 in idle :eek2:

    The astonishing part is that there was a 6 degree swing in 'IDLE'. I was very careful to seat the processor..... exactly two ricegrains of AS5 etc..... The system was stable though.


    I called it a day and this morning, couldnt stop thinking about the temps....


    I had to get the big typhoon back on the comp and 'bending' the copper tubing (so that it does not touch the RAM ) was out of question. Now, the only option was to strip the Mushkins off their heatsinks and voiding warranties......


    I did take that risk and stripped them off. And i was surprised to look at the sub-standard ..... 'sticker' used to secure the heatsink on the RAM..... i've seen the OCZ ads, the corsair ads.... talking about 'RAM Sink Technology'..... its all marketing BS and an excuse to just cover up the model number of the chips being used.... of course you get a good looking RAM Module, which is choking, unable to breathe properly....




    I just scratched the sticker to check what its made of.... well i see the RAM trying hard to breathe through three layers of 'plastiky material'.



    The system is up and happy now. The RAM is the riskiest component cos they have no warranty now. This is India and US is far far away. So, it matters a lot to me..


    Idle temp of 37 - 38 C

    Load temp (two instances of prime 95) of 42 - 43 C


    I'll just use this system for the week end and think about overclocking it the next...

  14. 275x10=2750MHZ (cpu speed)

    2750 (cpu speed) '/, 11 (180 divider) = 250MHZ "DDR500"


    the 200 divider or 1:1 is always the CPU multiplyer (eg. 10 in the above case)

    Each step down is an increase in "1" of this number. So the 180 divider is 10+1=11..And so on..... Get it?



    Could you please clarify the '/, thing?


    Do you mean.... 2750 (cpu speed) / 11 (180 divider) = 250 MHz


    If yes, then assuming the next divider, which would be /12


    2750 (cpu speed) / 12 (divider after 180... 166 ?) = 299.1667 MHz. Is this right?


    Have i got it now :O

  15. Hi diyers,


    Its been nearly a year and a half since buying my NF4 UltraD mobo. Its a shame that AMD has left me no choice but do my LAST upgrade for the system.


    So, i went ahead and bought a Opteron 180 and the Mushkin Redline DDR500 2GB Kit. Both the components are the "best of the ones left" in newegg. Hence no research, just a knee jerk reaction to the forced obsolecence.


    So, i started to search everywhere to find a similar config - both in the overclocking database and elsewhere. I could'nt find one, hence thought of creating a new thread to ask for help and document the same once my 'modding' and 'overclocking' project becomes successful.


    In addition to the processor and RAM, i also ordered the evercool vc-re and the NV Silencer for my 7800GT. Time to enjoy some modding too :)


    I had some basic questions before getting on with the overclocking project.


    a) The product code for the Opteron 180 is OSA180CDBOX

    I googled and the only informative link was http://www.amdcompare.com/us-en/opteron/de...opn=OSA180CDBOX


    I tried to make sense of the naming convention, but bore no fruit. The only thing I got to know was its a E6 stepping.


    I found a huge load of resources talking about the 'older' opterons with detailed break down of the naming convention, the stepping details and their effect on the 'overclockablity' of processor. Each stepping was uniquie in one way or the other.


    So, could anybody throw some light on the E6 stepping and its overclockablity?


    B) I observed that most of the entries in the overclocking database supply the processor a voltage which is much above the printed limits, so does that void the warranty on the processor?


    c) The mushkin redline's product code is 991493. And what I checked out from google is that its a Infineon Chip. Now, given the importance of the choice of bios depending upon the chip being a TCCD or a BH-5 etc. Could you suggest me the right version, so that I flash the same from TMOD's bios factory. I know that overclocking is all about patience like angry has said in the sticky threads, but the right bios would help me to get down to only overclocking, rather than hit a block and then get to know that the 'other' bios was the right choice.


    I had asked for the naming convention some time back. My bios reads "06/23/2005 NF CK804 6A61FD49C 00" on the bottom left hand corner of the screen while booting. Somebody helped me out by telling that its a 623 bios (FYI).


    Any help would be appreciated.


    Thank you.


    * The options in the 'prefix' dropdown while creating the thread did not have DFI. That hurt a bit :( There must be a reason for that, but I request the mods not to disown us DFI owners :)

  16. Thank you for the encouragement.


    Given that even a few MHz can make a huge difference b/w a stable and unstable system. I do not think that angry rounded off the 247.5 figure to 250.


    Now, this is what made me post the calculation and ask for clarification.


    So, could anybody please tell me whether it was a 'rounded off' figure or what is wrong with my calculation?

  17. Thank you 27floyd.


    I'm still unclear with the logic. So, i'll try to figure it out myself and ask you guys if i'm right :)




    Am i right in calculating the above?


    If yes. Then i quote angry who gives some details regarding the project in his first post.


    I'll leave this stuck to the top for a while for you guys to discuss and debunk what I have done, while I continue testing this rig...and when I am done maxing it out, I will then drop back to 250x10 and do straight 1:1 comparing since I know the BH-5 will do 250x10 1:1 easily (already Primed it at those speeds, and it is doing 250Mhz on the DDR180 divider at 275x10). The TCCD will of course do it...the differences then will be purely in what the different timings will net you (which won't be much difference either way, again making timings a moot issue unless you just HAVE to have the best benchmarks on the planet).


    So, how do i get 250 MHz from the 180 divider formula?

    The formula gives 247.5 MHz right? :O



    I mean, i get the point. I concur with angry. But its just that i want to get my logic right and then go ahead and happily start experimenting and testing.




  18. Hi overclockers,

    I had one doubt regarding the memory divider. Since I am unable to put it in words, please check the screen shot of angry's comparison of the one with and without divider pic.




    This is with respect to the Centon RAM in particular.


    If the DRAM frequency Set is 200 and the divider is 01/01, then how can the FSB Bus Frequency be 275 MHz.


    If anybody would clarify this to me, may be then I would understand the divider concept. Me feeling pretty stupid that RAM Divider is one thing that i'm unable to understand :confused:


    I site the Centon example because its 1:1 and hence i guess it would be easier to understand. I have really no idea HOW the 180 MHz figure was reached for the GEIL ONE BH5.


    Please enlighten me :)

  19. Thank you very much for the PDF. Its a lot easier to read it out on print.


    How ever I have a doubt in pg 17 of the PDF.




    The only mention of the FSB/HTT Bus Frequency is on pg 9 & 10 and this is where my confusion is.


    What does pg 17 imply by 'increasing HTT/FSB in 10 - 15 MHz increments?


    Taking my opteron into consideration


    Processor ----> 200 X 12 = 2400 MHz [ 12 being the multiplier ]


    Now, does the pdf explain that i am supposed to increase the 200 in 10 to 15 MHz increments?

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