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shogo

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  1. thanks for your help fragbait but unfortunatly it didnt help, i set the timing, upped the voltage again to 2.8, still getting errors. i lowered the multi down to 5x. the only way im not getting errors is with ram set up lower than 240.
  2. yes forgot to mention that i tried 2.8 without sucess
  3. (cpu multi tuned down to 6x just to be sure my cpu wasnt causing problems) cpu multi down to 6x with htt at 250, it makes my stock 4400+ from 2.2ghz to 1.5ghz so i dont think that was the cause of the problem.
  4. Ok i have a bit of free time now so im back on trying to figure out whats the weak point in my overclocking I am using the new 706 bios (this bios looks really good btw, all the default options are pretty much the same options that what gskill rep recommended me) I am using the recommanded settings from gskill rep : voltate 2.6v CPC: enabled TCL: 3 TRCD: 4 TRAS: 8 TRP: 4 TRC: 7 TRFC: 14 TRRD: 3 TWR: 2 TWTR: 2 TRWT: 3 TREF: 3120 TWCL: 1 BANK INTERLEAVE: enabled Skew: auto value: 0 dram strenght: auto dram data : auto idle cycle limit: 16 dynamic counter: enable 16x 7x disabled 4 burst I cannot pass memtest #5 at 250fsb (cpu multi tuned down to 6x just to be sure my cpu wasnt causing problems) at 240fsb i can pass #5 now i tried to get into windows with 240x10, fine, 240x11, blue screen of death. i cant even reach 2600mhz, it kind of sucks? cpu voltage is 1.3725 HTT link is set to auto. so, i have bad ram and a poor ocing cpu? Prime 95 is rock stable at 2400mhz. I used to have it at 2500mhz but i was having errors in memtest after the second pass. I tested what was the maximum i could reach with a divider on my ram, and its 2750mhz (250x11). So why couldnt i boot with 2640 (240x11), Should i rma ram? I could obviously put a divider on my ram, and raise my fsb, but technically my ram should do 250 stock, and at least 260-270 oc. at 260-270, i could do 1:1 with my cpu , x10
  5. Hi fellow diy builders. I have a question for you. I am starting to build computers more often (approx 1 every 2 weeks). Most of the comp i build are for random people that wants gaming pcs but doesnt know alot about pcs and want a "custom" pc for less $. I wanted to know how much you guys charge for building a complete rig. this means : -establishing the customer needs (gaming, budget, workstation...) - ordering the pieces from online shops - building the pc - installing softwares - OC/Tweaking depending on the demand - Stability testings One other thing is that, some time i buy pieces off ebay, but i dont know what kind of "warranty" i can offer to the client. Some people are building computers and sell it on ebay for insane $$$. lets say a 3000$ worth computer can be sold on ebay for around 4500-5000$, does it really works? i mean is there really a demand for that kind of stuff. i was thinking to maybe start selling custom computers on ebay. I have friends that are working with metal etching tools, maybe i should try to sell some custom overpriced pc too? Thank you
  6. fore more usefull info, go there http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=983781 sorry for being rude in the last post eh
  7. No offence but im a bit jaelous when i see people overclocking their cpu to 2.7 that easy and dont know alot of info about problems you can have with your new cpu and things like that :mad: But to answer your question, you can always try to set the affinity only on one core (ctrl alt del) on the 3dmark.exe process. there is also the amd patch that the previous guy just posted.
  8. Ive been building computer for buddies with ocz and corsair value stuff, because we didnt overclock alot. only pushed ddr3200 to ddr 3500, nothing extreme. BUT one thing i heard on dfi-street forums is that value stuff is not what you want to run with a dfi board. This board is ment for extreme performance and overclocking, it was not ment for the "value" segment. newer bios like 623-3 kinda support value stuff, but i dont think you will ever have the confirmation from dfi that it will work flawlessly. Altough this ram is really ok for standart use on other kind of board.
  9. its interesting to see that i am not the only one interested in water cooling but is not really well informed about it. I have tried to read some information on watercooling, to test it you can "short" your PSU with a paperclip, i think there is a link in angry_games signature. To test your water loop, test it outside your case for 48hrs or something like that., its better off to keep it simple for the first time, get a complete kit for the CPU and gpus. Are you planning to use a submersible pump? 12v or 120v ? external rad or internal?
  10. this the replie i had on another forum: Watts volts = amps (+12V1) Athlon 64 X2 4400+ @ 110W 12V = 9.2A (+12V2) X1900 XTX @ 120.6W 12V = 10.9A +2A per HDD, 0.5A per fan, 0.5 for PCI cards, 0.5 for the mobo deduct one quarter of the rated amps to heat loss place PSU on UPS or high quality new surge protector (MOV's wear) no it would not be my first choice you have a $650 card and a $465 processor + components and your spending all of $63 dollars to keep it all from blowing up Id recommend a supply with both tighter regulation, cleaner power and more headroom will it work? most likely, are they good supplies? they meet basic spec compliance would I do it? no Id guess your worse case runtime draw on the +12V2 rail to be about 13.5A without overclocking and your derated capacity about 14.25A in a supply that is just of basic compliance, your likely to see accelerated wear on the supply would be my guess
  11. Thank you for your help! i am kind of happy to see that because i did not really had the budget to go for something else. I am buying this power supply because it is included in the Antec performance series case, for 150$ cnd, so it is really good value. we wont be addind another hard drive or things like that so i suppose this would be cool. thank you
  12. i have seen post that says that there is not enough amp on this psu. what you guys think
  13. ok so in fact the minimum 30A on 12v rail is the addition of both 12v rail. Another question. Smartpower 500W has a ±5% , Truepower 480W, for 20$ more, has a ±3% wich is "more stable" . You think there is huge difference?
  14. ok im building a computer for a friend, and we have 40% discount on ati x1900XT card, so we will get it, on ati website it says minimum of 30A on 12v rail. Antec Smartpower 500 has 17A on +12v1 and 19A on +12v2 +3.3V* +5V +12V1 +12V2 +5Vsb -12V Max. Load 32A 35A* 17A* 19A 2.0A 0.3A Min. Load 0.5A 0.5A 1A 1A 0A 0A Load Reg. ±5% ±5% ±5% ±5% ±5% ±5% * +5V, +12V1, 12V2 and +3.3V maxload: 490Watts * +5V and +3.3V combined output: 180Watts just want to know if the 30A is when you add up the 12v1 to 12v2 = 36v
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