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About hawkeyefan

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  1. loosen RP and MAL some more and see what happens. Btw, this doesn't have anything to do with your PSU. It's the memory controller on your chip. The mem controller on your Venice was much stronger than the Opty so you won't be able to use the same exact timings as you did in the past. Looser and the RAM probably won't clock as high. Other thing you might be experiencing is that some mem controllers on some individual chips just flat out won't run on certain dividers (on any timings). I never got my Venice to boot on any board/RAM combination at 133mhz divider. Just refused to do it.
  2. It's not a bad glue job on the lid most likely, and probably isn't due to concavity or convexity of the IHS either. I popped the IHS on my Toledo and Core 0 still runs several degrees hotter than core 1. CoreTemp reports about 6-8C higher on Core0 typically. Mine is fully loaded on both cores 24/7 so it's easy to monitor. PWMIC gets much hotter on X2s, especially when you put more volts through them. Point a fan at the area (I have one 80mm which keeps temps under 50). PWMIC can handle higher temps but when you get in the 60s could affect OC stability. Is your 4200+ a Manchester, Denmark or a Toledo according to CPU-Z? I'm guessing that LCB9E = Toledo. Probably was originally slated to be a 165 or maybe 175 but with a bad cache, neutered and sold as a 4200+ with a different multi. I have an X2 3800+ that is a Toledo...i.e. Opteron 165 or possibly 170 with a bad cache. Toledos clock like a mutha.:drool:
  3. Exos = probably no more effective than a high-end HSF like the Tuniq or BigTyphoon. But $75 is pretty cheap... Make sure your OC can withstand at least 8 hours dual Prime (large FFTs test) at Priority 9 or 10. There is a HUGE difference between real stability and a CPU-Z validation;)
  4. a safer and more precise method (so as not to scrape/chip the die) is to put your hand into an inside-out plastic sandwich baggie and gently spread and tap the half-grain of TIM into place thinly and evenly with your index finger. You can wind up with a coat so even and thin that you can kind of see the die through it. I second the suggestion that Ceramique works better than AS5 for long-term applications...i.e. core/IHS interface or naked mounts. AS5 is marginally better than Ceramique but requires reapplication at some point (usually).
  5. Just a couple thoughts here to add. 7200.10s are fine and all but right now the fastest sataII HDDs are the Hitachi T7k500. A possible issue with the Seagates is that they are made in three separate factories (Singapore,China,Thailand) and depending on which drive you get, it has the potential to be either loud or performance-limited by the new firmware. Seagate has no Acoustic management for their drives apart from what is set at the factory so there is no way to quiet a loud Barracuda down. All other drives have acoustic management. If you want the quietest drives, go for either WD *AAKS models or the Samsung SpinPoint T or even better, SpinPoint S if you can find one yet. Both are good performers and quiet. If you want to go totally crazy, the single fastest 7200 rpm sata drive on the market is the 1TB Hitachi T7k1000. It's HUGE and not cheap. It's essentially just as fast as the 150GB Raptor. But imho RAID is quite frankly pointless unless you are running a file server or something. You are not going to see any real-world improvement in gaming, etc. on RAID 0 vs. a single fast sata drive. Slightly faster map load times and sexy HDTach scores and that's it. Lot of money to burn for no real performance benefit. You would benefit more from setting up one drive with OS/games/etc. and running simultaneous software off of a secondary drive (FRAPS, MBM5, etc.). Two heads are faster than essentially one. This is also a really bad time to load up on drives. Whole new lines by each manufacturer are dropping either as we speak or in the very near future: 10k rpm sata drives from Seagate Samsung SpinPoint S Hitachi T7k1000 line (only 1TB model is available yet) Seagate 7200.11 line you would be better off picking up one or two 320GB Hitachis or Barracudas, no RAID, and wait for the faster drives to drop before throwing down hundreds of dollars.
  6. couple points and suggestions: Core0 is always stronger and cooler than Core1. My Core0 is still completing SP 8M long after Core1 has crapped out at SP1M, and reports about 5C cooler. make darn sure you are using the "gpu method" with the AS5 and not the "A64 method", which is only good if the IHS is on. GPU method= spread a very thin layer of AS5 very evenly across the entire surface of the core, not the "pea-sized drop and twist" like you normally would. you can use shims from old Athlon XPs if you want Are you sure you are actually moving the heatsink itself and not just the heatpipe assembly? BT is a wet noodle...I can shove mine an inch in either direction and the actual heatsink doesn't budge, even if the mobo starts to bend. Be sure you tightened it down enough. I go crazy on mine. The Thermaltake crossbar is actually bent I cranked down so hard on the tightening nuts. fwiw.
  7. that was what it took for me. I couldn't breach 2950mhz at any voltage with the IHS still on. Now can get stable @ 3020+mhz on 1.568v and have run a few SP1M at 3150mhz. Might be a bit more in it, but it runs a folding project 24/7 (3.0ghz @1.55v) so I haven't pushed it any more than that. Pretty sure this is still the best Toledo on air in the "AMD 3ghz Club" and the only 3800+ on any cooling. Good stepping and sheer dumb luck, lol. Last time I bought for the stepping, I had one of the legendary 0517 Venice, and it turned out to be a pretty mediocre chip for the stepping. Looks like you have a good one there, good luck:nod:
  8. Just shove the CPU back into the foam square it was shipped with you so don't bend the pins. Grab it gently and do a couple rounds with a thin razor blade. I never mess with trying to "soften up" the seal, just cut through it. I've mounted the same BT on two different naked chips (E3 Venice, X2 3800+ Toledo) about a dozen times total, using only stock hardware. Both chips have spent their entire lives in a vertical case, never a problem. Use ceramique, though, as AS5 breaks down/dries up quicker and remounts of course raise the risk of cracking the chip. They're pretty tough imho. You can really crank down on the hardware if you are careful. My load temps dropped almost 10C on the Toledo (much less on Venice) and got at least an extra 75mhz stable at same voltage.
  9. E3 Venice 3000+ @1.650v 2810mhz with a TT BigTyphoon it's been crunching Rosetta and WCG projects 24/7 @ full load for over a year;) I'm stuck at 1.55v or so with the X2 3800+, get to 1.6v and just way too much heat, even with a higher CFM fan. Time to go to water I guess, growing collection of bigTyphoons getting boring anyway.
  10. what TMM is saying is that MAL and RP must be loosened as the HTT is raised. Regardless of CPU speed and what divider you are using. 300HTT @ 5.5ns is very tight for RP. Prolly need 6-6.5ns at least, as TMM states that will increase the higher the HTT. So when you hit 320-330HTT, you will need to continue to raise MAL and RP.
  11. Not true. HCI Memtest and SnM Memory Test are each better tests than memtest86+ for DOS, as they place the additional strain of OS overhead and background processes on the memory. memtest86+ is a good for running quick tests of #5 and #8 to check for any major instability, and should be run on new sticks for 12-24 hours for reasons you point out. But if you are tinkering with known good sticks, HCI and SnM are going to show errors faster than memtest86+. They will also error out at settings that appear perfectly stable according to memtest86+. Several different times I've had memtest86+ pass for 12+ hours, only to have HCI or SnM pick up errors in 15 minutes. So there is definitely a huge tradeoff for relying on only memtest86+. It proves that you don't have any bad individual ICs, but it doesn't prove that the sticks are stable in Windows or 3D apps.
  12. Was your LDT multiplier set to "Auto" or to 5x? sometimes if you exceed LDT of 1000, you can scramble Windows Also this happens a lot if memory is very unstable. Next time instead of using Repair Install, use Automated System Recovery to replace only the damaged file
  13. edited.. I guess a better question is are those the old Z503s with 5B-D and weren't those the ICs that were problematic with 3D apps?
  14. use a lower divider, raise Max Async Latency and Read Preamble, get the CPU stable...and tinker with the RAM later imho If you are comparing your RAMs performance under the Toledo memory controller to a different mobo/CPU combination it is probably not going to perform the same. Toledo mem controller is very weak compared with others, I lost almost 10mhz on my RAM:mad:
  15. is your RAM hitting the wall? My UCCC is about 6-7mhz slower with the Toledo memory controller than it was with the one on the E3 Venice. imho the flashing cursor is sometimes due to MAL and RP or other memory timings being too tight. otherwise it just means you need more vCore.
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