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Everything posted by LanceDiamond

  1. Apparently I just did what the OP did to myself. I have a new monitor on the way and for no good reason figured I should update to the most current BIOS from 623-3. Now I have no post/boot and fans running. About to try the extended CMOS clear I guess. Thanks DFI, thanks a lot. This system had been running for 2 years flawlessly. I go to the DFI web site, make sure to pick the right product and follow their steps to update it with Winflash - and kill my system. EDIT: LOL ok well...that was fast. Before doing the whole tear down thing I read through the steps, plugged in a PS2 keyboard and booted with the new BIOS while holding down the insert key and it worked. Now typing this on the system itself. I guess I will just go back to 623-3 since that had been working, like forever, for me.
  2. I don't think 31/38 is particularly bad with the Zalman but you should have AS5 in there. As far as jumping to some arbitrary speed, might work, might not - might seem to work and have random oddball problems. Just a few random reboots/crashes and you might get sort of annoyed, I know I would. The OC guides on here and on Hardocp are good places to start. Basic idea is to figure out what your processor maxes out at, then figure out what your memory maxes out at, then settle on some setting that is stable.
  3. I've got an X-Fi Music - I'd been terrified after reading about all the problems but I went for it anyway when I managed to get it for like $75 after rebates and a coupon from Circuit City. Couldn't be happier and no problems so far after about 3-4 weeks. BF2 sounds awesome with it.
  4. My 4400 would hit close to 2700 but I had to go higher on the voltage and heat than I wanted for that last 100mhz. I'm happily running 100% stable at 237 x 11 with a mem divider. And I mean 100% stable, weeks now and no strangeness, no reboots, CPU idles around 30c and load is sub 50. For me anyway, 2600 to 2700 wasn't worth the extra voltage, heat and even occasional instability.
  5. I like my OCZ - not doing SLI, but one 7800GTX, OC'd X2, 3 hard drives and 1 (soon to be 2) optical drives. I liked the little dials to be able to adjust the voltages to be precise (and I was shocked at how far off the BIOS reading of the voltages were!)
  6. What thermal compound did you use on the Zalman - AS5? I've thought about doing this and have one of those Zalman's not being used right now. Only down side is I have to completely take my brand new system apart lol. This is the one thind I wish I'd thought about before I put it all together!
  7. What installation source are you using for XP - XP SP2 CD and just booting off that I assume? 32 bit or 64 bit XP? If the problem continues, post the exact error you get about the partition - of course with the other drive unplugged and whatever else the other guys here said to do.
  8. startup, minimized - seldom check it but it seems to take hardly any resources
  9. You might want to look at the Antec P180 case - I have it, I've built a bunch of computers and IMHO, it's by far the nicest case I've ever had. The only down side I can think of for the P180, aside from it isn't exactly a cheap case, is if you want to carry it around, it's not exactly small either. It's also possible that the PS wires can have a hard time reaching but I had no problem at all with mine and the OCZ PS. Do check the power supply guide around here someplace and make sure that PS is in the guide as being a good one to use. Power supply is very important, want to use a known quality PS. On the ATI or NVidia, a friend of mine just got an XT850 and he's wishing he'd gotten a 6800 instead. Not exactly sure why this is - he says *maybe* the 6800 looks a little better and the NVidia drivers are better (he upgraded from a 6600) but then he's not sure because he doesn't have a 6800... May be a grass is greener thing... Edit: Just looked at Newegg prices on the 3700 vs a 3800 X2 - looks like $100 more for an X2. If there is any way to scrape up that extra $100, a 2nd core (basically a 2nd CPU) is a great thing. I can't say enough about how great dual core is. I worked at Microsoft for a long long long time, working with the OS so I'm not just talking out my butt here - I do actually know how some of this stuff works. More and more apps and games will support multiple processors (ie. dual core), the OS uses them now. Xbox 360 has multiple cores, PS3 will have multiple cores (which means game devs will be writing code that is more prone to take advantage of multiple cores eventually.) Multiple cores is the .. Quake4 info on dual core: http://www.firingsquad.com/hardware/quake_...re_performance/ quote from that review: "...frame rates on a dual-core Athlon 64 X2 3800+ are 63 percent faster at 800x600 with threading enabled..."
  10. That won't work for the BOOT DRIVE (as the other poster said) - try it if you don't beleive me... I ran into the same issue as the OP here several times - damn stupid card readers hehe! As someone else said, make sure they're disconnected and reinstall the OS - that is the only way to change your boot drive letter unfortunately.
  11. Your question is answered in the text you quoted from that poster - he got errors running at 2.8v. Could have been heat issues, but I'll say it again: if these modules require active cooling at stock speed and 2.8v, Crucial really should mention that.
  12. I'll say it for you Your ballistics are going bad. That's my oppinion anyway. As I understand the theory of burn-in you'd expect to have to use LESS voltage once your memory is burned in. You run it hot and high voltage to burn it in, with lots of cooling to prevent it from cooking itself. Then you can back off the voltage or get more agressive speeds at the same voltage. It sounds like yours has gone the other way - you need more voltage for the same speed. If you're inside 30 days, I highly recommend you at least call and get an RMA - maybe run it another week but you have the RMA just in case (Newegg's RMAs are good for 2 weeks.) I'm not trying to be a Ballistics basher but what you're seeing sounds a lot like what mine did. Had to go higher on voltage for same stability at first, then top speed dropped, then stability at any voltage was gone, then the memory was gone and swapped.
  13. FYI - Newegg has credited me the full amount (less whatever the shipping was - like $4 or so) for my RMA'd Ballistix - just got email from them. I did order the Ballistix as part of a total order that was over $2k, so that may have had something to do with it but they never mentioned a restock fee when I called at about 23 days. They did not actually get the memory back until yesterday, just over 30 days - I was worried a little because the wording on the RMA sounded like they had to have it within the 30 days but I guess as long as you call before 30 days and get it back within the RMA time (14 days) then you're set.
  14. My 4400 idles as low as 28c on air, ambient around 22c. Don't know if this applies to WC setup since I've never done it, but are you sure you didn't get air in the thermal paste? When I first built my system, first time I placed the heatsink on the CPU it came up once before I got it secured. I thought about it and decided to take it back apart, clean everything off and make damn sure once I squished the paste, the heatsink did NOT come up so it couldn't get air. I read that can really mess up cooling...
  15. Comparing an engine with moving parts to memory which only moves electrons is sort of flawed. The way memory would be damaged by OC'ing it beyond spec is, over time you'd get too much heat and electron tunneling and the like (I'm no EE and I'm just talking out my butt here - I'm great at that.) In my case, I ran Ballistix at 260 for 3 weeks - and yep, 260 is above spec. But even to run it at 250, I had to apply 2.7 or 2.8 volts, I forget which now. Also, even at 250, it got just incredibly hot. I firmly beleive that had I run at 250 instead of 260, result would have been the same. I had no active cooling, other than an XP120 with a 120mm fan blowing air right onto the memory - but no high-CFM fan blowing at it. My ambient temps are cool and airflow is great, I took great care with cables and fans and have said all that several times - think this'll be the last. Ballistix needs to tell people if these sticks require active cooling at stock voltage/speed. Also threatening people that have had too many RMAs seems like questionable customer service. Sending someone back their same memory and saying "it works, go away" isn't great customer service either. And RMA'ing one stick of a dual channel pair of $300 memory? Please... My own admitedly subjective comparison of Ballistix customer service and OCZ customer service, neither of which I have ever actually talked to (remember - talking out my butt!), leads me to beleive OCZ provides far better service. I've read posts about people dealing with both companies and read OCZ's forums - they seem to have GREAT customer service. I now have OCZ memory, running at stock speed and it never gets anywhere near as hot as the Ballistix got at stock speed.
  16. I did it and it looks just fine to me. I looked carefully and no stutters - and I did it while ripping a DVD lol - man dual core is nice. Have you tried different resolutions? I am running 1920x1200 with the most recent NVidia drivers - from like 4-5 days ago I think. Edit: Should also say, no stutter whatsoever playing BF2 at 1920x1200 with high details and ultra quality sound (X-Fi card.)
  17. Those things are rated crazy hot I think - but I'd still carefully check if a cable isn't laying on top of one of the PWM heatsinks or something. Cables aren't rated at 100c and you might be able to eventually melt a cable with high enough temps and expose the wires and cause a short.
  18. Sporadic reports now that any card bought in the last few weeks - maybe as much as the last month - should have been updated by Creative and not have the problem. Considering I found another coupon tonight - I had to go buy another X-Fi and I'll be returning the first one lol (all Circuit City so I'm not screwing anyone here, just getting the best deal I should read about LAST night) - I couldn't be happier. $129-$15 coupon-$40 rebates = $75 X-Fi and it's rocking. Sounds awesome on music and I got a gaming headset and am using a Y adapter to plug it into the back/mic jacks for BF2. BF2 was a good game pre-X-Fi - but it's honestly become MUCH more fun with the Ultra Quality sound option. It's an amazing game now, I just played about 5 hours. You can actually hear what seems like every single sound, every shot, every voice, every vehicle sound - it's amazing... Edit: I always think of something right after I click post... $75 for the X-Fi and it has 51,000,000 transistors. For every penny of that $75, I got 680,000 transistors (they cost 0.00000147058823529412 cents each if you care.) All that other junk on there was free. That is just a damn good deal no matter how you look at it. My 4400 only got me 460,000 transistors a penny - and it didn't have all that other free crap - the connectors, other chips, blah, blah.
  19. Here's one of a couple of posts I found on OCZ forums about exactly how to setup this memory: http://www.bleedinedge.com/forum/showthread.php?p=131175 I'm either running exactly these settings or damn close - I think I may be at 2-3-2-7 but from reading on here someplace I found that the last number doesn't do much. I benched at 2-3-2-5 and 2-3-2-7 and saw pretty much no difference. I did ignore what he said about the CPU voltage - I know what voltage my CPU needs. Got to love memory guys that will give you that level of detail on how to configure in your specific mobo, down to what BIOS to use! Edit: I should also mention, in playing around with OC'ing this memory, I loosened the timings to 3-4-4-10 I think - wouldn't boot and had to reset CMOS lol. I decided I was happy with 236 x 11 on 9/10 divider and memory at 200 about 30 seconds after that.
  20. no problems so far and it does sound GREAT, man I hope it'll work. I could do the RMA thing with Creative but I'd rather not. FYI, Circuit City has the X-Fi Music for $129 with $40 in rebates. An X-Fi for $89 (+tax) was just too cheap to pass up!
  21. My 4400 maxed at around 2700mhz but I had to go to 1.6v or maybe a little more and it got hotter than I was happy with - 60c or so under load if I remember right. I'm now running 24/7 at 1.5v @ 2607mhz rock solid stable (237 x 11, 9/10 divider - memory @ 200mhz.) Load temp stays below 50c now, idle 28-29c. See my sig for my air cooling - nothing special really aside from the wonderful P180 case which has great airflow.
  22. I got them around 10/31 - they worked great for about 3 weeks then started having problems.
  23. I'm going to get another one of these in the AM - Circuit City has the X-Fi Music on sale for $89 after rebates, so I've saved $40 by returning the Best Buy one and waiting a while.
  24. I read that review after I'd already purchased my Ballistix - closest I came to those settings was 285 3-3-3-8 @ 2.9v (using low multi to eliminate the CPU). At that speed it booted Windows (BIOS memtest seemed ok) but HCI design memtest in Windows failed within a few minutes. I never could hit 295 or better, even going to 3.0v which I really was nervous about. It got SOOO hot at 2.9v I wound up giving up and running 260 x 10 (CPU stable to 2690 or so) @ 2.7v for a few weeks - ran all the tests I could find and it was rock solid but the memory still got way hotter than I thought it should. Then I started getting BSODs and from there it wasn't ever stable again with the Ballistix. Great airflow, 75f ambient temp - but no active cooling on the RAM and IMHO, Ballistix absolutely require active cooling or they had a bad batch - or both.
  25. I read that review after I'd already purchased my Ballistix - closest I came to those settings was 285 @ 2.9v. At that speed it booted Windows (BIOS memtest seemed ok) but HCI design memtest in Windows failed within a few minutes. I never could got 295 or better, even going to 3.0v which I really was worried about. It got SOOO hot at 2.9v I wound up giving up and running 260 x 10 for a few weeks - ran all the tests I could find and it was rock solid. Then I started getting BSODs and from there it wasn't stable ever again with the Ballistix. Great airflow, 75f ambient temp - but no active cooling on the RAM and I think either Ballistix absolutely require active cooling, they had a bad batch or both.
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