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tameone

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Everything posted by tameone

  1. I'm not sold on one uber card vs an SLI setup. I agree with the thought that you shouldn't plan to upgrade to SLI later, but I don't think that applies to when you're actually building. By the time you are ready to upgrade, it won't be worth it. But it IS worth it at the build date. For example, right now the best performance in the $300-400 price range comes from an SLI setup.. dual 8800GTs for example costing around $340 will beat an 8800GTX that still costs $330-400.
  2. e8400s are back in stock on newegg.. order quick!
  3. We RMA'd the 2nd board and got a 3rd free of charge, minus whatever to ship the 2nd back. 3rd board worked fine
  4. Ahh another defect from Asus! I built a PC for a friend and he insisted on an Asus board w/ Xfire capability. Two mobo RMAs later and he has a working PC Should have gotten the DFI like I suggested
  5. I purchased the bluegeard B-enspirer from zipzoomfly for around $110 w/. free shipping. This card is awesome. I have it hooked to my 5.1 setup w/ onkyo 604 and I can definitely hear a difference in sound over the onboard. Its excellent for music, movies, and surround gaming.
  6. We did advanced RMA so we paid for the new board and will get a refurnd when we return the old. ... the Saga continues The new board came, hooked everything up and got an error beep code/sequence. The manual did not have an explanation for this beep code so I called Asus tech support. The guy said the beep code was representative of a problem with the power supply. He said they also got a lot of complains about Antec PSUs (like what we were using) not working well with this asus board and he recommended a Thermaltake PSU. So my friend bought a thermaltake PSU, installed it. Didn't help a damn thing.. still same error beep sequence. So I called Asus tech support THREE more times and each time the person told me the error code meant something different! First guy said Video card. Second said memory AND keyboard. Third said it could be anything since the sequence only meant hardware error! freakin idiots. Of course I only called after I had done a bench test and tried every piece of hardware individually and in every sequence/configuration imagineable. anyway. I took the PC to my house. I installed my working 3700+ san diego. error beeps. installed my ram. error beeps. installed my video card. error beeps. installed a known working master IDE HD. error beeps. installed a working floppy and new floppy cable. error beeps. so now every piece of hardware has been swapped for known working pieces and the problem persists. I guess we have received another broken board
  7. I built a system for a friend of mine with a San diego 4000+ on an Asus A8R32-MVP Delux mobo. He wanted that for Xfire and the price was right. Anyhow, the system has 2x WD 80gb SATA2 in raid 0 with Asus ULI onboard Raid controller. The PC was working perfectly for over a month until he tried to connect his old IDE drive to transfer over data. He hooked the drive to IDE1 as a master. Keep in mind this drive had a copy of win XP on it too. The drive was detected in bios, but upon boot, there was an error displayed saying there was a problem with the IDE master drive.. .I don't know exactly what it stated. Anyway The drive was them removed but the PC would not post afterwards. This is where I was called in. The CPU fan would spin at full speed and the computer would just sit there like a vegetable. I figured the bios settings were all screwey so I followed the procedure to clear the BIOS. Upon reboot as expected I got a error CMOS checksum Fail, CMOS time/date fail, press F2 to enter setup, F1 to load defaults and continue. I entered setup, saw the 2x SATA drives detected as IDE3 master and IDE4 master (strange but this is how it always was). I enabled SATA controller and put RAID mode selection to RAID mode in the system configuration. Upon a reboot the system would now post and boot normally, however, on a subsequent boot, the PC would NOT even post again. I figured maybe the CMOS battery was bad and the settings were only being saved long enough for one boot.. so I replaced the battery and sure enough this solved the problem. The computer was reboot several times over the next few days and everything seemed fine. Tonight I got a call from him saying he did a reboot and again,the pc would not even POST. I walked him through the sequence that I used several times to get the PC to post and boot before using the new battery (I.e. I got it to boot to windows over and over but on subsequent boots it would not POST.. then I swapped batteries and it would reboot fine) but the pc would not POST. I told him to put in the other new battery (purchased 2) but the PC would not POST. The user manual gives no useful information.. asus website gives no useful information. I submitted a ticket but that could take forever. I don't know if its coincidence that this problem started after the IDe drive was installed since I got it up and running fine afterwards but I'm out of ideas any clues? I told him to start the RMA process tomorrow morning just in case
  8. oh really.. that must be the problem darn I really wanted to see my temps. thanks
  9. I am happy with my g.skill extreme ram. Since you're asking this, you know DFI boards can be picky, but g.skill modules are on the recommended memory list found here http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24719 this thread contains everything you could ever want to know about memory and the NF4 DFI boards.
  10. I have been running the Fortron 550W (EPS) FSP550-60PLN PSU in this very box for almost a year now without a hickup. This PSU is very strong and all rails are dead on (or a tad high). The only downside is no PCI-E power hookup, so GFX cards will eat 2x molex connectors each. I had to purchase several molex Y splitters to get all the fans running. I now have a total of 9 extra fans on the case without a problem. I don't know if I will ever buy a PSU from another manufac again.. there is no point.
  11. I can't get the SMART functionality to work for any hard drive, or I can't get any program to recognise the drives as being smart compliant. I enabled SMART in my bios. I have tried several programs including Everest Ultimate, but nothing works. For the love of xxxx I just want to read the internal thermal sensors on my drives :mad:
  12. This was definitely the best race of the season. Wet races generally make for good entertainment and put a lot of emphasis on decision making.. tires, etc. I'm a huge Honda F1 fan so I am very happy with the 1, 4 finish Button definitly earned the win, he didn't inheret it. He out paced Alonso for the 2nd half of the race, and poor tire management took Shumi out of the picture. If both drivers had finished, they would have finished behind Button
  13. I just finished building a gaming rig for a friend on a budget. I suggested he go with a socket 939 setup since the prices were just slashed so much. We got a 4000+ Sandy for almost half what I bought my 3700+ for in Oct. a moderately priced 939 system will still be upgradeable.. with a 3800 X2 now, a 4800+ X2 CPUs will be an upgrate option in a year and will be dirt cheap. Also, for some reason he is big time into ATI so we got an x850 xt platinum for $170 shipped which outperforms the 7600gt slightly, albeit about $20 more. This will allow him to go xfire in the future when he gets more money.
  14. there's an NEC MS90 19" crt on craisglist in my area for really cheap in perfect working order, yet I'm unable to find any information on this monitor. Anyone have info on the specs? I'm looking for a replacement for a 17" Mag innovision flatscreen CRT which it perma-blurry due to being too close to EM fields would you "recommend" I buy it?
  15. /me waits for rambus to hit rock bottom then buys some shares
  16. the ram will be hotter than the air leaving the HS and blowing over it, so it should help
  17. ok this is ridiculous.. I installed the Evercool HDD cooler today. It has a temp sensor which is displaying 106*F! Thats WITH the cooler.. can't imagine what it was before. don't know if thats related to my problem, but it sure isn't helping. I can't find the temp via the internal sensor. I enabled SMART in the bios and tried two seperate HD temp programs but both said no SMART devices present heres the HD tach results on the drive.. looks fine
  18. You could easily live off one million dollars for the rest of your life.. 50k a year in interest from a simple savings account or CD. After 20 years your over 2.5 mil by doing nothing. Personally I would buy a 997 4S cab or GT3, go on a nice vacation, and save/invest the rest. I would continue with current job, but just spend a lot more of my salary
  19. man I need to find that. I just started playing CoD2 MP last weekend and it's pretty addicting.. but of course, now I'm in a pickle!
  20. yah it is.. I couldn't get it to recognized any other way. I made a post about this when I installed thinking I shouldn't have to set it up with the raid utility but no one responded. I have enough room to transfer all data off it and set it up in the appropriate way. Also, the audio CD I burned.. only 5 out of the 18 tracks were in tack and playable. I'll run a benchmark to test its performance when I get home. I also noticed the WD drive gets much much hotter than the Hitachi drives. I would say the hitachi's are luke warm, while the WD is HOT. I just got a HD cooler for it but its not installed.
  21. Burning files from my 320gb WD 3200KS SATA2 drive is extremely slow. For example, I tried to burn an 80min Audio CD from files stored on this drive via my NEC IDE DVD Burner at 48x this morning before I went to work.. After 20 min the progress was 30%. I can burn DVD/CD from any partition my Hitachi RAID0 array at normal, fast speeds (2 min or so for 80min CD). When I got back from work, the burn had finished. I don't think this is a new occurrance.. I just never tried to burn from this drive since I installed it a few months ago. The WD is hooked to SATA3 connection on mobo (1, 2 for 80gbs in RAID0 setup). In Nvidia Raid Utility, WD drive is shown as: Healthy, STRIPE, 298.09 GB. Striping Width: 1, Striping Block: 64k. I see no abnormal performance from this drive in any other type of transfer that I have tried. Drive is operating normally according to Device manager. Nvidia Driver Version 5.10.2600.518, dated 2/11/2005. Any ideas? there is one device malfunctioning in device manager under non plug and play devices.. "parport". only information given is its an "on demand" device with device instance id rootlegacy_parport0000
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