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About T0uchT0ne

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  1. please be more mature when you are allowed back here otherwise your ban will turn permanent
  2. moderator edit: please do not encourage the customer to void his warranty by modding the board because you feel it is the only solution to the problem. this is not acceptable. and if you have a problem with your DFI product, please ask for help. If just want to complain that you don't think DFI knows how to fix something, please direct that directly to DFI in email or by telephone but do not use this forum as your sounding board. This forum is for support, not for soapboxing your disgust at not getting your problem solved in the manner you wished. Nor is it for suggesting modifications that will violate and end another customer's warranty.
  3. Yes, it was that... Hynix and these boards - NO GO. For me anyways.
  4. I always hear about people experiencing "tearing" but I never have a problem with. I think the key is to run your monitor at a high enough refresh (100 hz for me). As for issues - nope - I changed the jumpers on my DFI, updated to the latest nvidia drivers and tada. Worked. - Marco
  5. check my sig. I'm achieving that with 1.64 volts. Totally rock solid. Each venice 3500+ is different. Your voltage is fine. Don't sweat it. Whatever you do - DON'T take it past 1.7. - Marco
  6. In answer to your question, "is sli worth it?" - let me post some screenshots of two new personal records I set tonight. Check out the attachments. Of course, the only one I pay any attention to is the aquamark score. You can decide on whether it is worth it - but for the record - I'm a big fan of Call of Duty 2 and I can't even imagine playing it without SLI. - Marco
  7. How did you flash your BIOS? With "WinFlash" or did you use a floppy? If you used Tmod's CD I have found that whatever switches he is using with awdflash isn't necessarily the same as what is found at the official DFI bios download section - I noticed that this weekend when I replaced my DFI board with a new one. The official one flashes MUCH slower - if you don't believe me - check it out yourself. This suggests that there is a difference in the software switches being used... I doubt it makes a big difference since so many people use Tmod's CD (and I'm sure appreciate his hard work) - but when it comes to the bios I'm starting to be more and more careful because of all the strange things that happen when people upgrade/downgrade their bioses (unexplainable things). Just my two cents. Hope you find a solution my friend. - Marco
  8. Buddy, Don't make the same mistake I did - literally put 40 hours of time into trying the same thing over and over again. If you're even marginally knowledgable about computers and have tried all "the fixes" don't run on "hope" just so you can be let down over and over again. The Mobo or RAM is bad almost 90% of the time when "strange" stuff like this happens. Figure out which one or if you have the funds - buy both. If I was a betting man - I'd say it's the mobo. Even one little scratch near any of those "etched lines" running around the CPU and DIMM slots can create hell. Of course, some will say I'm on cloud 9 - but if you aren't a kid who lives with his mom and has all the time in the world you'll thank me later. Bottom line - if the RAM works on other machines and it works with one DIMM in but not with both and you've cleared The BIOS and followed the standard advice on the forums the evidence would suggest what??? Your board is hosed. Hope this helps you from losing hair. - Marco
  9. I'm hoping by posting this message that those who have more experience with performance and stability in regards to overclocking will share their advice on what I consider to be as far as I think I can go with using my machine for more then just "seeing how far I can push before a fire starts" (read: on 24 hours a day/used for work, gaming, etc.). You'll notice in my screen capture that the voltage for the ram is 3.4v which is fine for the OC VX ram I use - but I'm more concerned about the DFI board since I'm using the +5 jumper. I've been keeping a close eye on the voltage stability of my PSU and any fluxes on the board but they are rock solid - I mean - they hardly ever move - and when they do - it's .1 from time to time. Any thoughts on this? I've also read quite a bit from several of you in regards to voltage to CPU - even with cooling it seems there are risks. That being said - I think it was a "dracula" - can't remember his handle though - that posted some "guidelines" - one being that with a Venice don't go over 1.7 volts. You can see by the screenshot that I'm hovering around 1.63/.64 - does this seem high for my results - I tend to think it's not considering 2750 1:1 with a Venice (revision 6 even!) is excellent. Any words of wisdom here? After 6 months I'm pretty happy with things (I hope this is a lesson to many out there that purchase a DFI board and think they will enhance performance without putting lots of time into it!) - this system now is rock solid - and can do 100,000 Aquamarks without having to overclock my video cards on either video memory or gpu. Man, I can't tell you how good this feels after all the hair pulling - teeth grinding - muscle spasming sessions I've had. Bottom line? DFI rocks. - Marco HERE IS SCREENSHOT:
  10. Yeah - don't just make a comment like that when there are thousands of us who DON'T have it working. Share your settings. - Marco
  11. Yes, this motherboard/bios combo was hard to get going even at stock.
  12. After installing the new drivers I found stability to be a little better (I gave my chipset less voltage and still maintained solidity) but I did lose about 400 points in Aquamark. Not a biggie, though. - Marco
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