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osen

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  1. My board is now confirmed dead The quality of these boards doesn't impress me. Gigabyte loop of Death, no boot at all, tried different CPU and memory. RMA next I guess, crap! Good luck to you though Clawhammer That SuperPI time seems pretty high, I did 15 or 16sec with my E2140 @ 3.2GHz and memory at 4-4-4-10.
  2. It's not the vcore, it's the chipset voltage and of course it's 0.075V, not 0.75 The vcore is stock. Anyway, seems like the board has died on me, doesn't boot anymore at all. Time for RMA.
  3. I'm running the same board with an E2140. Has worked fine at 3.2GHz (FSB wall at 400MHz) at stock voltage. I don't think there is any need for you to use that much voltage, almost all E21xx has FSB wall around 370-400 and most of 'em will hit that on stock voltage. Today though, it seems like my board died on me as well. Rebooted and it just went into the Gigabyte loop of death Runs fine at stock but can't adjust FSB at all. Flashing to latest BIOS didn't help either.
  4. I'm already running +0.75V, doesn't make any difference at all Thanks for your input though. As a last resort I'm going to flash to latest bios (F7) and hope it makes any difference. Otherwise, it seems like the board is dead?
  5. Hello I'm having a sudden strange problem with my rig. I've been running this E2140 at 3.2GHz since the day I got it (while waiting for Penryn :tooth:) and it's been perfectly stable, even went through over 24 hours of Orthos without any problem. Today, when I rebooted, it just turned off and went into the Gigabyte loop of death (starting, turning off, starting, turning off, you know what I mean ). I thought it was very strange, so I turned it off, pulled the power and reseted the BIOS. It booted fine at stock (1.6GHz), so I went into bios to adjust my overclocking once again. No go. Tried lower frequency. No go. I can't even adjust the FSB 1MHz :confused: It's perfectly stable at stock, but I can't OC anything at all. Any ideas? I don't have a clue about what's going on :sad:
  6. 2.75GHz is pretty good for a X2 4200+... Not as good overclockers as the Opterons. Mine did 285x10 stable with 1.475Vcore, more Vcore didn't help at all (I'm on air though). Seems the sweetspot for these CPU's is around 2.7-2.8GHz. Switched it for an Opteron 165 and it's sweetspot is 330x9 (2970Mhz) with 1.475V, can go 3ghz+ but needs 1.55V or more, not really worth it for a few extra Mhz IMO
  7. Correct, you don't have to reinstall OS. For me it worked fine switching to and dual core from a single core without reinstalling with XP SP2. You don't have to uninstall CPU drivers either. Just load optimized defaults, shut down and swap. I even switched CPU's (from a X2 4200+ to an Opteron 165) without loading optimized defaults, works fine as long as the other CPU can take the overclock (but remember, if you've got multiplier at auto, the 4200+ has a higher one so it won't like the overclock if the fsb is to high). Can I ask why you're changing from a 3800+ to a 4200+? They both have the same amount of cache (4400+ has 2x1mb though) and you will most likely not get much higher clocks out of it.
  8. Well, you COULD try using another bios chip, haven't heard of NF4 bioses getting corrupted like the NF2 ones, but what the heck, could be worth a shot. Load optimized defaults on one of the other boards and try it in the non booting one. I assume you've tried the proper clear CMOS technique for recovering from a "no boot" condition? If not, here's how it's done: http://www.diy-street.com/forum/showpost.p...04&postcount=24 Also while doing this, unplug everything non-vital as harddrives, PCI-cards, optical drives etc. If this doesn't work atleast I'm out of ideas, I would say the board is dead.
  9. Chip set: 57c :eek2::eek2:eek2 I would be concerned about that wevsspot. 57C at almost idle in BIOS, that's way to high. Have you checked if your chipset fan is spinning? For me it's too high when it hits middle 40's. My sensor is way off, I don't think is acutally measures the core of the chipset: the passive heatsink I've got installed is at about 50C when the sensors sais a little over 40C. At load, his chipset could be close to 70C or more (even if the sensor is correct), that can't be good for stability. And namedkwon, your memory being a dual channel kit doesn't mean you can't use the sticks independently, it just means they are guaranteed to work togheter.
  10. Well, I've never been able to use sleep with my board. When I try to resume it just reboots after about 10 seconds (everything is black) and then it hangs at post and I have to turn it off with the power button and restart a couple of times. Have no idea why though, it was the same with another identical board I had, seems that these board doesn't like sleep very much. But your problem sounds different. Does the problem occur even if you turn off sleep? I would try stripping the system and boot only using the most vital parts (and clear CMOS) with only one stick of RAM in the top orange slot. Have you got all the power connectors plugged into the board (there are four of them)? EDIT: Sharp was faster
  11. Sleep has never worked on my board. When I try to resume it just reboots after about 10 seconds.
  12. Well thanks, I'm very happy with it As you said kitfit1, with those blades from a razor you really need to take it easy, really sharp, cut myself up good without noticing it lol. I'm trying to get 3g's out of it but no succes so far. Needs 1.6V to be stable and that's to much for my taste, especially when it's perfectly stable at 330*9 (2970MHz) with 1.5V but needs 1.6 for only 36MHz more. Going to tinker some more with memory timings and such before I give in And wevsspot, that mounting looks really solid. I'm using the original bolt down method for my Nocuta NH-U12, only with some washers to make up for the loss of height due to the IHS removal. But it uses springs so it "rocks" pretty easy from side to side and that's not good with a naked core Maby I'm going to try your method so I don't have an heart attack everytime I move the case lol
  13. I disassembled a razor and got a blade from it, veeery thin, worked like a charm! Thanks for the tip. I took it very easy and the lid popped of my 165 I also lapped my Noctua NH-U12 as the base was pretty "ribbed?" and uneven. Here's the result: :tooth: Was it worth it? Hell yeah! Before, I was seeing ~50-53C load with only 1.475 and about 2850MHz. It wasn't stable much higher even with 1.5V and I couldn't give it more as I don't want to go much over 50C. Now, I began with setting it at 325x9(2925MHz) and 1.5V, booted up and ran orthos for a couple of hours, rock solid! And temps in SmartGuardian didn't exceed 41C (CoreTemp shows 46-48)! A drop of over 10C, with 0.25V more! Incredible, and the AS5 hasn't even set yet. This is in a P180, full with sound dampening material and only one 120mm intake and one blowing out in the back (Yate Loon's @ 900RPM) I'm now at 334x9(3006MHz) with 1.525V and load temp is about 44-45C (CoreTemp about 51-52C). Going to run orthos overnight but it seems to be rock stable.
  14. I've spent to many hours (years) playing Counter-Strike. Began with 1.0 and continued into 1.6. Right now it's Live for Speed (no, not need for speed, se link in sig ), best racing simulator I've ever tried. I've got a raceframe, Logitech G25 and Logitech Z5500, it's great Right now I also play a lot of Bioshock, don't usually like singleplayer but this game rocks.
  15. It does, I'm already aware of that if you read my first post But it doesn't let me have seperate 2D and 3D clocks and thats what I want.
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