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noahsark1126

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Everything posted by noahsark1126

  1. Kanzleramt has a 3800+ Venice. It's not an X2. I was pretty confused at first too lol.
  2. Thanks for the help everyone. The test passed, it booted into safe mode, and then it booted into regular startup (thought it did act a bit strange). I got the files I need off the hard drive and I think I'll do a clean install of XP tomorrow (unless it seems to be functioning completely normally, which right now it isn't). Thanks again.
  3. Good idea about Tmods cd. I am running a WD diagnostic test as I write this. I'll see what happens and I'll also try safe mode.
  4. No, the BSOD just flashes for a split second, I cannot read it at all. I don't have another computer right now (all the other computers in my house are notebooks, and I don't think I can hook my SATA drive up to a notebook can I?) I will probably be able to find some computer or other to use, maybe a friend's or a neighbor's. As for WD Lifeguard, I don't even have that installed on the computer. Any other ideas?
  5. I have Windows XP Home, running on a A64 x2 4200+ and 2gb of OCZ low-latency platinum RAM. I had a stable overclock, seen in my sig, and everything was working fine until today. Now, when Windows starts up it seems to be fine but then a few seconds later I will get a BSOD and the system will restart, repeating the whole process. This is what I have done: -set everything back to stock settings -tried removing a stick of ram, tried the other one, switched them around in the 4 slots -ran memtest, and got no errors What is the problem here? I really need this computer to work, and it is obviously not my hardware. Is there some way windows can get messed up to cause this? Can I fix it? What should I do?
  6. I think it just might be doable. It might take some case modding, but it'll save me the $100+ for a new Full Tower case. It will also allow me to have a rad in between the two heat sources, the CPU and GPU. The only disadvantage I see (besides the obvious need for more tubing) is that two 120 rads is much more expensive than one 240. It's ok though because I am way under my budget anway. As for the reservoir, I will take lowboy's advice and read around about them. I can do a fillport if i have to.
  7. Actually, my case has three 120mm fan mounts - one each in the rear, front, and side. Right now there are actually fans in those slots, but I could definetely put some radiators there. And there is more space than you think; it's one of the larger mid-towers out there. My desk has a nice spot for a computer case, which I use, but a full tower wouldn't fit, that's why I got a medium one. As for the reservoir, is it better to get the cylindrical one or a bay style? I have 4 free 5.25 bays which I could use.
  8. You're right, there is definetely not enough room anywhere in my case for a radiator. The black ice is 292mm x 133mm x 29.6mm which is about equal to 11.5in x 5.2in x 1.2in (and is meant to hold 2x120mm fans, obviously, which adds even more to the thickness). I don't have anywhere near that kind of space. So that means I either have to buy a new case (ouch) or put the rad outside the case. There really isn't a good place on the actual outside of the case either, so that means I would need to put it somewhere farther away, which means much more tubing. Can I do that? I'll look into the reservoir instead of fillport/t-line idea. I would really rather not drill holes in my case, but I will if I have to.
  9. Am I going to have to drill a hole in the top of my case for the fillport? I don't think I have a drill to do that with. That's what Danger Den says you should do, and it also says to drill a hole for a fan and rad in the top. I know I don't have the tools to do that. My case is this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16811146013 Is it big enough for everything? Is there a place I can even put the rad? Do I need a new case? And maybe this is a stupid question, but do I need 2 rads? That list I posted before only includes one. Sorry for all the questions, but water cooling is really not my area of expertise.
  10. Ok, here is what I've got so far, taking into account all of your advice. TDX and D5 combo http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=170 low-profile maze4 gpu block http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=161 black ice gts 240 x-flow http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=225 delrin fillport (1/2 OD) http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=244 T (for 1/2 ID tubing) http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=65 12x clamps http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=62 20ft clearflex 60 tubing (1/2 ID and 3/4 OD) http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=61 zerez coolant (4oz bottle) http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=77 total (including discount code and shipping): $216.29 Not bad. That's a lot less than I expected. And I will of course be buying some 120mm fans. I think air cooling is fine for my chipset. Right now it stays below 40 degrees, which is fine with me.
  11. Yea, that's pretty much what I have. I also put some MCT-40 in my list. I need that, right? What fittings do you think I might need? I'm cooling just the CPU and one video card. And how many clamps?
  12. Ok, I got the idea on the radiator. Which tubing do I want, Clearflex or Tygon, and which fittings? (for 1/2in tubing) I assume I want 10ft, correct?
  13. one more question: About the radiators, the stealth gts 240 looks nice, but which one do I get? http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?...1&cat=86&page=1 http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?...5&cat=86&page=1 They appear to be identical except the first one is meant for one fan while the second is meant for two. They are the same price. Which one is better?
  14. Alright thanks for all the quick responses. I pretty much know what to do now. You guys are the best.
  15. Thanks for the advice Miggs. 300-350 is what I was thinking. If I can keep it in that range or lower I will be very happy. The Koosah's are just too expensive. I'll stick with the maze4's. I'll get one of the low-profile ones for now, and if i get a second card I'll buy another. I have some BGA ramsinks for the vid card and I can rig a silent fan to blow on them. As for the rad, the Black Ice does seem like a good choice. But you said I or II depending on my case, how do I know which one? this is my case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16811146013 And what about water cooling the chipset? Is that a good idea? there is a danger dan chipset block here: http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?...7&cat=46&page=1 You're right, it is definetely not the Zalman's that are making the noise. That's part of the reason I got them - good performance with low noise (and they do work great for me). It's really my 3x120mm case fans and the NF4 fan that make the noise. I have a fan controller, which has decreased the noise somewhat, but it's still loud enough to be annoying and to stop me from sleeping. I just want the quiet of water. I'll probably take the Zalman's and put them in my old Athlon XP (which is currently on stock cooling -- yuck). There is a link to my case earlier in the post. I just liked the look of it. Is it a loud one? Thanks for all the help.
  16. I want to get water cooling for my computer. I am really sick and tired of it sounding like a freakin airplane turbine. I've been reading around and I'm pretty much convinced that Danger Den is the way to go. I have some money, but it's far from unlimited, so I'm looking for a quality setup without an extravagant price. So basically, what do I need? I want to cool my CPU and video card with water (and possibily my NF4 chipset as well, is this a good idea?). So I know I need a CPU block, GPU block, pump, radiator, tubing, and some fans. Is there anything else? And of those categories, what are the best choices to buy? I only have a single GPU at the moment so right now I will only need one GPU block, but eventually I will upgrade to SLI so I think the Low-Profile MAZE4 GPU block is my best option for that. Other than that, I really don't know.
  17. I think this has been posted about before but I can't find the thread, so sorry if this is redundant. Anyway, as the title says, I can't stop SG from starting up with windows. Every time I log on it comes up right in the middle of my screen. This is what I've tried: 1) Going to run, typing in msconfig, and unchecking it off the startup menu (I have no idea how it even got there, I didn't put it there). When I restart my computer SG still starts up and when I check msconfig, ITESmart.exe is checked. 2) Going into the registry editor and deleting the entry for SG. Of course, it just reappears when I restart my computer. And of course in the SG options I have unchecked the box that says "To Execute Smartguardian Automatically At Startup." I seem to remember reading another thread about this a while ago and it had a few possible fixes but none of them worked for me. Anyone know how to get this f***ing annoying thing off my startup? I still wan't to use SG from time to time so I'd rather not just uninstall it.
  18. It's up to you. I personally wouldn't run more than 1.5v through a $1000 investment like that just to be safe. But then again, if you have the $ to buy an FX-60 you probably can buy another. The more voltage you push the more you risk it burning out sooner. No one can guarantee if it will live or not. I would be pretty confident in saying that 1.66v for everyday use will decrease the lifespan. I don't know how much, but it will. Most likely you will have upgraded by the time it dies, but you never know. It's all about weighing risk vs. gain for you personal preference (and the size of your wallet).
  19. You are most likely experiencing the Expert temp sensor bug. They usually report temps 8-10 degrees lower than actual. So your real load temps are probably around ~43. That makes more sense too, since water just couldn't keep a CPU that cool with those ambient temps.
  20. It definetely does say 4.25v. It is obviously an error. I think what he meant to say was 1.425v, which would make sense for a Vcore. He also said 3.75v which I think is 1.375v, which again makes sense.
  21. It could be the other timings, besides the big four. They actually have a huge affect with this ram. Here is a screen of my A64Tweaker. I'm running 231mhz 2.5-3-2-7 1T 2.73v. It doesn't say there but I actually have my Tref set to auto. Everything else is manually set. two of the most important timings for this ram are Max Async Latency and Read Preamble Time. If they're too tight it's gonna be a no go. Also, these timings are all very very loose which I did so I could reach my goal of 231. I am currently in the process of tightening them as much as possible.
  22. No, haven't tried a reinstall. Maybe I'll give that a shot. There aren't any patches available. There's for Intel processors with HT or dual core. So, with my Athlon X2 that isn't much help.
  23. Depends on the sticks on the memory controller. X2's and Opterons yield by far the best results. You can't go very far on stock timings. It seems like the secret timings are 2.5-3-2-7. I've had success with those timings and other people around the web seem to also. (I;m using that setting and running 231mhz right now). Some people find that 3-3-2-8 yields clocks as high as 260. Also, although voltage makes little difference with these sticks, I've found that 2.70v with +.03 enabled is the best (I suppose on an Expert you have more control than on my SLI-DR).
  24. Thats not really the reading for the 2 cores. One of those temps is either your PWM IC or the NF4 chipset. Some programs label them as 2 CPUs. I've seen it with my X2 4200+. Look at whatever program is giving you that reading and compare it to ITE, one of the "cpu" temps will be exactly the same as PWMIC or chipset.
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