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About Anonymous1

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  1. Added a home made fan shroud. Story and pics: http://www.neoseeker.com/forums/directmess...53&replynum=162
  2. I just finished a set-up with the rad on the top, except mine was on the outside of the case in a separate enclosure. It bled down in probably 45 minutes. I just made sure the t-line was never empty and let the thing run while I randomly checked for leaks.
  3. Finished product. http://www.neoseeker.com/forums/lastreply.php?t=730853
  4. http://www.neoseeker.com/forums/36554/t730...-rig/11.htm#156 Click for pics.
  5. The o-ring pops out of the side if I go even 1/4 turn past hand tight.
  6. No I mean the actual inlet/outlet ports that you screw into the radiator. How tight do they need to be screwed on?
  7. How tight do the inlet and outlet barbs need to be on the rad and such.
  8. What is the green/black psu trick? I tried reading it where it was linked in the h2o guide, but the site won't let me view it even after logging in. http://www.bleedinedge.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5577#5 Can anyone explain this to me?
  9. I shopped around, and I didn't find any of the items at any noticeably lower prices...maybe a dollar here or there, but they were either the same as the mfg or they were a bit more expensive. Anyways, I went with a 360 rad in the event I like how this turns out, I'll do the whole computer and would like to not have to purchase a larger rad. Being a 360, I might have a hard time finding a spot for it in the case, unless I use the side grate as a mounting point. I'd have to remove the 250mm fan, but it isn't doing much anyways so no loss there. Enermax Uber Chakra
  10. I've done some research and have spoken with a few people and have decided to go with watercooling for my final(god I hope so) cooling solution. From looking around and reading reviews, it would seem that Danger Den is probably the best choice, albeit one of the the most expensive. ATM, I'm only looking to cool my CPU. If all goes well there, I may expand the system later on to include the chipset and possibly my two GPUs. As I've mentioned though, the CPU is the only thing I'm concerned about as the Vigor Monsoon has become nothing but a $150 disappointment. Right now, the parts I'm looking at buying are: Waterblock: MAZE4 S939 Radiator: Black Ice Pro III Pump: DD 12V-D5 Variable Speed Coolant: MCT-40 Non-Conductive These items set up with a brass T line for filling/bleeding and all of the assorted 1/2 ID hoses and clamps. In addition I'll be using AS5 and probably 3 Vantec 120mm fans rated at 94CFM. Their may be a reservoir and fan controller in the mix, but I haven't decided on that yet. I used to have a Vantec Tornado(92mm @ 70+dcb) so noise isn't really an issue, yet. I'm looking to keep the pump, radiator and fans outside of the case. Although I have a full-tower (Enermax Uber Chakra) I get really OCD-like when it comes to case clutter. HITandRUN showed me a picture of his set-up and I'm a big fan of the way it looks and I'll probably be modeling my set-up after his...in a home-made wooden box with cut outs that the case will sit on top of. My main concern is price vs performance. I really hope that after all of this ($220+S&H), my load temps will actually be less than what they are with the Vigor "Crap" Monsoon, and what they were with the Si-128. Both of which with the vcore at 1.55v were hitting 53C+ in the heart of the Summer season at load. The Si-128 hit 59C at max and that sparked some serious concern which lead me to purchase the Vigor TEC hybrid. Thoughts and pointers?
  11. HITandRUN, you've got to clear some PM inbox space.
  12. Good lord. It's been about 7 months since I've last visited "DFI"-street...it's way different now. I've been considering upgrading my Opty 165's cooling to a peltier system. I'm sitting at 2.7ghz @ 1.55 vcore, 16 hours Orthos + [email protected] stable. My cooling went from the XP-90, to the Si-128, to the Vigor Monsoon2 TEC hybrid. Under full load my temps are still hitting 52C. I don't like that. I've also been able to post/boot and run a few benches at 2.9ghz, but shortly after I get a joyous BSOD and it seems as if no amount of tweaking will change that. So, onto my questions: 1. Do you need to remove the IHS to have a TEC work effectively? 2. Aside from an additional PSU, the TEC plate, neoprene sheets, dielectric grease and silicone...is there any other item I need to complete the project? I keep reading about some sort of metal "plate"..a "cold plate" perhaps? I already have fans and existing heatsinks(Si-128). 3. I was aiming at the 226w TEC. Bigger is better...usually, but I've also read that the more power the TEC has the more heat dissipation is required to the point that if not done correctly you can actually make your chip hotter than before. 4. Is there an easy way to figure out that convoluted TEC equation about Qmax, Imax and Vmax? I've read guides and such but none that I've found seem to touch on these issues. The equations are written in plain English but I can't apply them.
  13. Anybody know why Aquamark only shows a 8000 point improvement with SLI whereas all of my 3dmark scores have effectively doubled? 8000 points could be attributed to the clock differences between a SINGLE xfx(490/1225) and bfg(500/2300). SLI should've given me 160K if not 180K, logically.
  14. Just posting back with a solution. I got the bfg from my buddy who needed money and I traded him straight up my xfx for his other bfg. No problems with performance at all and I see a 45%-50% increase in frames. I spent roughly 6 hours messing with vendor mixing the xfx and the bfg and regardless of drivers used, they had artifacts like I have never seen before. 3DMark03~ 26,324 from 15,xxx 3DMark05~ 12,473 from 8,xxx 3DMark06~ 8064 from 4,xxx AquaMark~ 110,676 from 103,xxx Oddly enough, AM3 doesn't really provide anything but an impressive number...for a single card. I've noticed that with my 9250 I scored 1,100 and with my 7800gt I scored 90k+. Then I oced my opty and the gfx to get 103K, added another 7800gt to only get 110K. What's with that?
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