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TheGeekMistress

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About TheGeekMistress

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  1. exroadie, that case came out after i bought mine. i like my case better as i hate doors on the front of my computers. but i've seen people on this thread posting pix of the model you're referring to. TGM
  2. heh, this "drawing" hehe, is exactly how i have my case and water cooling rad setup, minus the top fan; i don't run it. plus i have the crossflow fan running in there. at 3200mhz i get 31 idle / 39 full load. werx great! i love having a quiet running case. TGM
  3. for an air cooler, on mine, i ran the SLK948U w/SFII and got 3000mhz out of it. now i'm on water so it's really easy mounting it. i'm running 3220mhz cept for gaming, i gotta drop it down to 3180mhz with my water vrs air overclock. I just beat FEAR! hehe. seems the water cooling, for this chip, doesn't seem to make as big of a difference as i had hoped; 30C Idle and 39C Full Load is nice temps ...but then again, it comes Lidless. running the FX-57 specs and 2.6ghz speed 1M L2 SSE3 and uses the .09ยต proccess w/1.35vcore, on top of A64's running pretty cool to begin with. this is a really fast system tho, gotta love the Newarks. i still have an Epox NF4-SLI skt754 to move up to when i get the bux for a nice PEGx16 card :nod: TGM
  4. i'm wearing a hat but i still can't get 27s superPI lolol TGM
  5. welp, after a lot of work i changed out mobos as i have two NF3-250GB skt754 mobos and the one i had been using would only allow my overclock on water to get 3070mhz. so no that i have the 2nd mobo in with the Official DFI 623 bios that i never flashed i can now finally get 3200mhz on water again. so 3000mhz on high end air and 3200mhz on high end water ....i'm so relieve that the very first NF3-250GB i bought, that died and fried my vid card, i'm relieved that it ended up not damaging my CPU at all like i had thought. i'm stable web surfing, superPI, even video gamig for hours at 3200mhz. i'm so happy. it idles at 30C Full Loads at 39C ...only bummer is that i can't max out my ram no matter what multi, divider, bus combination. best i can get is 246mhz mem bus with CL2.0 ..the next step up is 267 and my TCCD won't do CL2.0 at 267mhz unless i set the CR to 2T and then i get less performance, which defeats the purpose. Damn i wish my TCCD would run CL2.5 it's sposed to, but i have no idea why it won't. but with an every closer 1M supePI score to 27s i'm much happier than being back at 30s+ when i was on air. i didn't realize this, but it's pretty hard to drop a full second off your 1M times. but i keep at it and i've dropped quite a bit of time off. BTW ACE, when i was puting my system back together, i did take care and wires thing up nicely this time ...hehe here's the fruit of my labor..... TGM
  6. dayam Evil, you really got some artistic skillz..... you took a pos thing you found in your backyard, lol, and made it into something that looks pretty c00l. may not be for the average user but you made it and it looks really 5w33t. great job. TGM p.s. i just went out and bought my ., lol.
  7. that was a thought i had, but increasing the voltage on the cpu by .25v or .5v made no difference, same goes for all the other voltages available. if it is the mobo, then it would mean that the current conditioning circuitry isn't as robust as the first mobo i had. TGM
  8. the "FSB DATA TRANSFER RATE" is controlled by the NB which has the memory controller in it. so it makes perfect sence that if you used to overclock your FSB to alleviate the bottleneck then once the memory controller moved "on die" of the cpu, increasing the frequency of the cpu also increases the performance of the memory controller as if it were like overclocking the FSB and CPU to the same performance frequncies.
  9. yah, i have been leaning on the regret side of the arugment. i should have just built another DIY system, but i just wanted a decent water cooling system so i didn't have to piece and part around for things. only thing i'm stumped on is the overclock difference between the first NF3 mobo of 3200mhz and this NF3 mobo i have now that only does 3080mhz. i've got a few things left to try out yet, so i'm not done with it yet. TGM
  10. i'm not being dense at all. why do you think we overclocked our FSB on the traditional NB/SB platforms. to increase the memory controller frequency. we already had dividers to run the ram faster and multi's to run the cpu faster.... but when the NB frequency is left behind, the system felts choked. that's because the memory controller running the bottleneck. it's the same thing when the L2 cache was on the mobo running at the same speed as the FSB and increasing the cpu frequency eventually gave lesser returns in perfromance. then Intel made the Slot1 with the L2 on the board next to the cpu and it ran at half the speed of the cpu, then they made the PIII with the L2 "on die" and it ran the same frequency as the core and it took out the bottleneck. the frequency perfromance of the memory controller effects perfromance just as the frequency of the cpu other wise we'd never of gotten into overclocking the FSB in the NB/SB platform. but, if you think you're right... TGM
  11. i agree, your superPI times go down with increased cpu frequency. i really don't understand how you think of timings, mem bus frequency, and memory controller + core frequency. but they way i go is the highest bus i can go, then tweak the timings for low lats and adjust the mem bus down a bit for lowered lats... then the only thing left is increasing the core frequency. thats it. my system, the faster the cpu, the higher the mem bus and the tighter the timings is what got me 29s.... i can't say anything more, i'll just let the score speak for itself. TGM
  12. looks to me like i once suggested, that a balance of tight'ish timings and higher mem bus are going to give you the best superPI score. i would say the 2.8ghz / 255 @ 3-4-3-8-1T (1T helps alot), is your best config. you can't get any better from your data. now that thats out of the way, the one single thing that will lower your superPI score by lowering latencies is to increase the memory controller frequency which is internal to the cpu, so to do that, you increase your core frequency. but, 2.8ghz might be your limit. but that's the only thing that's left to lower your superPI score with your config. TGM
  13. i'm gonna go eat some jelly beans, watch a movie, and get my head out of this frustrating situation TGM
  14. yes, there are lesser and greater performaning motherboards of the same model, but i thought we all already came to that same conclusion. i have a 2nd DFI NF3 skt754 mobo, i bought two b/c DFI discontinued the boards. after i do a freash OS install with this board, i'll prolly try the 2nd board for comparison. again, the A64 is a whole nother breed compared to the A-XP and it's reading off the diode only and my temps have never exceeded 50C on or off water. right now at 3.1ghz i'm idleing at 30~33C and full loading at 40~44C; and at 3000mhz on air the idle temps were 38~39C idle and 50C load. like i was saying to AG, on my first DFI NF3 before it died on me i was running 2950mhz on air and then i installed my water and straight away i went to 3150 solid. then pushed a bit i got 3200mhz on water compared to 2950mhz on a 948U with a SFII. i'm running an Enermax 651P with 36amps on the 3.3v, 5v, and 12v lines and i bought the OCZ line conditioners for my video card and my high rpm raptors drives. i understand that sometimes after running a while that you may or may not get a little bit more out of the equipment, but it's like a kick in the butt when i've tried everything to even get to 100mhz over air when the last time i got to 3150mhz (200mhz over air) solid stable. well i haven't changed any wiring or electrical components that aren't inserted to the mobo. it was basically a pull out of the mobo, place replacement mobo in and used air instead of water till i got my water cooling ready again. and this time i'm only cooling the cpu. last time my loop cooled the cpu, chipset, and vga. only thing else thats changed is the vid card and placing in an old low power FX5200 made zero difference. no, i have a push/pull setup so i have 4 120's on my rad. and i think you've got it backwards, using the pull method if only using fans on one side of the rad is the best way to go. b/c you don't get the heat build up off the fan's hub and there's no dead zone for a hot spot to occur under the hub using the push method. TGM
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