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Everything posted by Lensman

  1. I would suggest staying with air for the nF4 chip. There is a waterblock made, but I think the availability will be tough.
  2. Nope, unless you picked up a virus that is corrupting your boot sector and network drivers.
  3. As cmay119 mentioned, try the install with one stick of memory, as that will often do the trick.
  4. I would be inclined to swap out the PSU, as it sounds like it is not getting a 'power good' signal.
  5. I checked out your case design, Cproflow, and your temps are actually consistent with my expectations and other reviews. First off, remember that the Aurora is designed as a water cooling case, which means that the heat from the CPU, chipset and possibly even the graphics cards, will be directly removed from the case and not significantly add to the interior case temperature. That said, the case looks like it should be a good air cooled case. Unfortunately, it appears that such is not the ...umm case. The case is designed as a negative pressure case, as evidenced by 2 x 120mm exhaust fans and 1 x 120mm filtered intake fan. The airflow from the front fan will do an excellent job of cooling the HD, then flow in an 'S' pattern upwards, to exhaust out the rear 120's. Due to the negative case pressure, the remainder of the intake air comes from the side screen. Now here is the rub, 2/3 of the side screen is above your graphics card(s), which means that most of the airflow from the side screen is above the card(s), doing them no good whatsoever. Clearly, if the cards were water cooled, this would not be a problem. Anyway, my advice would be to install a side fan blowing directly onto the cards and/or the nF4 fan.
  6. Every 3 pin LED connector that I have ever seen, uses one pin for ground, one pin for standby and one pin for active power on.
  7. The DFI Lanparty UT nF4 Ultra-D is one of the finest motherboards I have ever used, and I have used lots. The vast majority of problems you will find described, are in fact operator error, where instructions are not followed, or the OS has become unstable. Buy with confidence, knowing that you will have the toughest MB ever made.
  8. Oh yes, I almost forgot. Try Sleemans 'Honey Brown' = nectar of the Gods. :nod:
  9. It is highly unlikely that you will be able to access any files through a different RAID setup. Sorry.
  10. You have to format the remainder of the raw partition as NTFS, through Control Panel > Administrative Tools > Computer Management > Disk Management. Right click on the white area of the RAW section and choose 'format'.
  11. Welcome to the crowd! Looks like a nice setup. The only thing that will drag the performance down is the single 1G stick of RAM. You won't be running dual channel, but I suppose you already know that.
  12. Pretty much. Configure the Windows power saving as 'Always On' and you don't have to worry about the monitor either, as it will go into a sleep state by itself.
  13. For me, the Marvel is the fastest and most stable.
  14. I am running 2 x 512M of OCZ Gold VX in the orange slots, which is the DFI recommended position.
  15. Yup, 24/7 here. I believe the effects from thermal cycling are more profound than a steady state wear and tear.
  16. Yup, I can work with that. As PL4YD33D mentions, the ultimate solid BIOS configuration is to manually set the drives as Master/Slave.
  17. The system 'polls' the IDE ports in the following sequence (sometimes the ports will be shown as IDE 1 and IDE 2) - 1) IDE 0 Master 2) IDE 1 Master 3) IDE 0 Slave 4) IDE 1 Slave As has been suggested above, the ideal spot for a Boot IDE HD is as Master on IDE 0, as the system will poll that drive first. Next, the best place for a DVD-RW is as a Master on IDE1 for reasons I will get into below. If you have a second optical drive, the next best place is as Slave on IDE 0. The reason for this position is not so much because of the order the opticals are polled, rather the reason is that because the drives are on opposite channels, the opticals can directly communicate with each other, bypassing the CPU, resulting in faster dupes etc. Finally, a second HD goes in as a Slave on IDE 1, again for the reasons stated above. I have used this setup flawlessly for many years. On your ribbon (or rounded) cables, the middle connector is always slave and the end connector is always Master. In every case, the Master plugs must be filled first, due to potential signal loss in the unterminated cable. Where drives are concerned, always use the Master/Slave jumpers for your opticals and for most hard drives (WD comes to mind) you can just pull the Master/Slave jumper right off. If you go this route, you should have the IDE channels set for 'Cable Select' in the BIOS. That said, some drives must be jumpered for Master/Slave and so you must configure the IDE channels as such in the BIOS. Hope that helps.
  18. Well, I have used Kingston HyperX, Crucial Ballistix, Mushkin Black Level II and OCZ Gold VX and been quite satisfied overall. That said, when I next purchase memory, it will be either OCZ Platinum EL (Rev. 2) or the Gold VX (if I can find any). As interesting as it is, to try to track down blue screens, memory dumps, lockups, etc., I have come to the conclusion that the absolute best quality of components, are actually the cheapest in the long run. I am not a 'frame chaser', just a lazy guy that hates the BSOD.
  19. I'll just toss these ideas out for your consideration. - Checked for any USB problems in 'Device Manager'? - Followed the correct order for installation, which as I recall, reqiures the driver CD to be run before any devices are plugged in? - Checked the USB wiring to front ports (if used)? I too have had difficulties in the past with USB input devices and not just with DFI product. Especially annoying is when you must make BIOS changes with corrupted USB drivers. So, what I now do is to simply use an adapter and plug the keyboard into the legacy keyboard port. No more problems.
  20. ...and he ran : cpu 3500*+ mobo ultra d. 6600gt ram 5 80mm fans not including the 120 on psu and 80mm on psu and gfx card all on it for quite sometime, and he said he never had a problem, including running cs source. All I can say, Mako, is what being involved with computers since the 70's has taught me - a cheap PSU is an accident waiting to happen. Every time you throw that power switch is like pulling the trigger in Russian Roulet. Most times you will get away with it, but it only takes one shot to ruin your whole day. And that's all I have to say about that.
  21. I am inclined to agree with the others, Mako3. If you can possibly afford an OCZ, Antec or Enermax, your money is well spent. You will never regret buying a good PSU. One of the problems with no-name PSU's, is that the circuit protection is either poor or missing completely, so when they blow (as they often do), they will take out the board and peripherals as well.
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