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Critter

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  1. Try and install windows with only the hard drive you are installing windows on hooked up. Good luck.
  2. Critter

    Memory problem.

    If you haven't qualified your RAM as working you should do it. Before I installed the OS I made sure my RAM was happy. Use the built in Memtest which is embedded in the bios. It is located in the "Genie" section of the bios and needs to be enabled. It will run automatically after post. Test ONE stick in the orange slot farthest from the CPU. Do 20 passes of test 5. To do this, when Memtest starts press "c", then "1", then "3", then "5" then "enter", then "0". Repeat the above replacing the "5" with an "8" for 20 passes. Then 5 full passes all the tests. Just let it run after boot. If no errors are reported switch the stick with the other stick and repeat tests. If both are good try both sticks in the orange slots and repeat the tests. If everything passes you know your RAM is not defective but may still need tweaking. If single sticks error try testing with DRAM voltage at 2.7 and 2.8. If single sticks pass but errors in dual channel (both sticks in orange slots) test again with voltage at 2.7, then try 2.8. If all of that doesn't work and you are getting errors look in the Stock Speed Database for your RAM and use those settings, repeating the tests above. Stock Speed Database is here: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=38 Good luck.
  3. Critter

    temps

    Those are normal. If you want to lower them you could rig up spare fans to blow at PWMIC (mobo) and the chipset. You could also replace the TIM (thermal interface material) of the chipset hsf with some AS5. You could replace the chipset hsf with an aftermarket fan plus AS5. My suggestion would be the Evercool VC-RE. Cheers.
  4. Thanks for the compliments, but I am only a senior member in age. There are a lot more senior members most likely with more experience too. I first decided to start contributing after seeing Angry being angry and all the repetitive simple questions the mods had to read,answer, and put up with. I figured if I could pick up those questions they would have more time to answer the tough questions and I could give back to a fabulous board that has provided me with a wealth of information and knowledge. While posting trying to help people I always try and be as concise and factual as possible. While running my Ultra-D I have had the fortune to run some Corsair 3200XL forcing me to learn. They taught me a valuable lesson. They ran Prime95 etc and memtest all night but I still had random freezes which would show itself in the event viewer as a mouse error and indeed it only froze while I moved the mouse. In the end it came down to one of the secondary ram timings and the problem was solved. After half a year of occasional reboots. Cheers
  5. Post your RAM settings to see if anybody can see something wrong. If you are using AUTO on the settings, download Everest and under "motherboard", and "chipset", highlight "Northbridge: AMD Hammer IMC" will be the values that AUTO is setting. You can also use A64tweaker for those values. This will also let you compare your settings with any you find here or elsewhere on the web. I would check the PSU with a digital multimeter to ensure your PSU is functioning within specs. If you have access to other RAM or another PSU you could try swapping things out to see if your problem is related to one of those. Cheers.
  6. Only have the hard drive you want to install windows in hooked up when you install windows. good luck.
  7. As I said, be careful of advice. The Expert wants a 8-pin connector and the Hiper only has four. I think I've read they can be run with only the 4-pin. Certainly try and rule things out (like the RAM) before you go out and get a new PSU. Cheers.
  8. Critter

    Random Hangs

    Try a new install of XP.
  9. Critter

    New Bios, cannot boot?

    Have you cleared CMOS?
  10. Mrhadley, Be careful of advice you receive on these forums. As you can see I have the same PSU as you and have not had a single issue with it. Others run it too. It is on the recommened list and is most likely not the issue unless your PSU is defective. Your problem is most likely a RAM problem in my opinion. See if your RAM and mobo combination is here making sure you use the same bios that is listed with the settings. http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=38 If your RAM is not here you can try and see if you can find or get some settings here: http://www.houseofhelp.com/forums/forumdis...php?forumid=128 To test your RAM follow this: Best to test 1 stick at a time in the fathest orange slot from the CPU. Boot into the bios and under the "Genie" section at the bottom there will be a place to enable Memtest. After rebooting loop test #5 for 20 passes minimum and test # 8 for 20 passes minimum and 5 to 10 full passes minimum. To loop the tests press "c" then "1", then "3", then 5(or 8 for test 8), then "enter", then "0". For the full test just let it run. If no errors it means that the RAM isn't defective but may very likely need timing adjustments to run stable if this is your problem. Do those tests and report your results. As for your internet problem, did you install the Nvidia firewall (active armour I think it's called)? This is a general no go as people have had lots of problems. I would suggest using the Marvell lan and see if the internet problems continue. Good luck.
  11. Critter

    Arre these temps too high?

    That chipset temp is in the normal range for the stock heatsink. If you want to lower it replace the stock TIM with AS5. If you want to lower more still and cut down the sound I'd recommend the Evercool VC-RE with AS5. If you are interested in the Evercool and want info on it, search, using "advanced search", searching in "titles only", using "Evercool VC-RE". Plenty of information on the subject. There is a "sticky" link at the top of the forums for a place to get it. Good luck.
  12. Critter

    what do i trust?

    The voltage will be what you set in the bios. The bios, along with CPU-z, MBM5, etc., etc. will be off and not report the true value. People with multimeters have determined it is usually close to what you set in the bios. Don't go by the sensors reportings. Cheers.
  13. Find out your 1:1 stable MAX RAM timings first, then start messing with dividers. CAS Latency (CL) 2.5T RAS To CAS Delay (tRCD) 4T RAS Precharge (tRP) 4T RAS Active Time (tRAS) 8T Row Cycle Time (tRC) 12T Row Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC) 24T Command Rate (CR) 1T RAS To RAS Delay (tRRD) 3T Write Recovery Time (tWR) 3T Read To Write Delay (tRTW) 3T Write To Read Delay (tWTR) 2T Write CAS Latency (tWCL) 1T Refresh Period (tREF) AUTO DQS Skew Control Disabled DRAM Drive Strength Normal DRAM Data Drive Strength 1 (50% Reduction) Max Async Latency AUTO DRAM Response Time NORMAL Read Preamble Time AUTO Idle Cycle Limit 256 Dynamic Idle Cycle Counter Disabled Read/Write Queue Bypass 16 Bypass Max 4 32-byte Granularity Disabled How high does that go? This should be passing Memtest test 5 looped 10 times and test 8 looped 10 times and 1 or 2 full passes for quick memory testing. If you get errors on test 5 or 8 you could try upping volts to 2.7 then 2.8 and rerunning tests. Remember to return DRAM volts to where they were if it doesn't improve anything. I would then adjust DRAM response time to "Slow". Do you get higher? I would then adjust CAS to 3 and using "Normal" Dram Response Time. Then "Slow". Getting any higher 1:1? Then you could put Tras to 10 and TRC to 14. Once agin trying "normal" and "slow". My loosest timings without knowing what RAM that is would be these. CAS Latency (CL) 3T RAS To CAS Delay (tRCD) 4T RAS Precharge (tRP) 4T RAS Active Time (tRAS) 10T Row Cycle Time (tRC) 14T Row Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC) 24T Command Rate (CR) 1T RAS To RAS Delay (tRRD) 3T Write Recovery Time (tWR) 3T Read To Write Delay (tRTW) 3T Write To Read Delay (tWTR) 2T Write CAS Latency (tWCL) 1T Refresh Period (tREF) 200 MHz 15.6 us DQS Skew Control Disabled DRAM Drive Strength Normal DRAM Data Drive Strength 1 (50% Reduction) Max Async Latency AUTO DRAM Response Time SLOW Read Preamble Time AUTO Idle Cycle Limit 256 Dynamic Idle Cycle Counter Disabled Read/Write Queue Bypass 16<--->I think 8x is looser but lets try and draw the line somewhere Bypass Max 4 32-byte Granularity Disabled As far as I understand it DRAM Drive strength and DRAM Data Drive strength are fine tuning for the RAM signal. This is very dependent in what type of memory chip your ram is using. That's why I wouldn't change those. I suggested DRAM Data Drive Strength to level 2 (30% Reduction) to change the signal strength as a possible way to get a better overclock. I'm not sure if I have this correct but my understanding is that if you clock up speeds sometimes you may need to change the signal strength too. CPU-z showing that is a known bug with certain dividers. Don't worry about it. Keep in mind I'm no expert and have learned all this in the last year through reading and screwing around. Now I just got the idea that maybe I should go buy some REAL CHEAP generic RAM just so I can go about finding its MAXIMUMs. First I should find the MAX of the RAM in my sig I guess. Boots into windows at 325 3-4-4-10. Haven't tried to stability test it yet there. Anyways, most if not all of what I have talked about is in the Overclocking Guide in the sticky atop the forum. You may always have trouble running certain divider with an Opty. Or at least that is what it looks like. I haven't used dividers much at all but when I was maxing out my CPU (using a divider to take RAM out of equation) I ran into problems and came to some understanding of the problem. I'm curious if my slack timings allowed for a higher 1:1 clock? Cheers.
  14. Try this: CAS Latency (CL) 2.5T RAS To CAS Delay (tRCD) 3T <----------->change to 4 RAS Precharge (tRP) 3T <----------->change to 4 RAS Active Time (tRAS) 6T <----------->change to 8 Row Cycle Time (tRC) 12T Row Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC) 24T Command Rate (CR) 1T RAS To RAS Delay (tRRD) 3T Write Recovery Time (tWR) 3T Read To Write Delay (tRTW) 3T Write To Read Delay (tWTR) 2T Write CAS Latency (tWCL) 1T Refresh Period (tREF) 200 MHz 15.6 us DQS Skew Control Disabled DRAM Drive Strength Normal DRAM Data Drive Strength 1 (50% Reduction) Max Async Latency 8 ns Read Preamble Time 7.5 ns Idle Cycle Limit 256 Dynamic Idle Cycle Counter Disabled Read/Write Queue Bypass 16 Bypass Max 4 32-byte Granularity Disabled I would first try and see what that will do. I would then further set your Max Async Latency and Read Preamble Time to AUTO and DRAM Response Time to "Normal", and also try "Slow". Use Everest to see what values are coming up. When you use a divider these values will change. Once again use Everest for those timings. Maybe try DRAM Data Drive Strength to lvl 2 (30% Reduction). You could also set CAS to 3 as that may be hindering your overclock at 1:1 without a divider. That's how I would start going about it. You can also check out the "Overclocking Database" in the hope that there is an entry there with your RAM. Good luck and post back your results.
  15. Critter

    Why the Vcore bounce?

    Here ya go: http://www.hltechnology.com/one_prod.php?pid=24260 and http://www.ilync.com/PartsHtml/CoolingFan.htm Cheers.
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