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Everything posted by Jibby

  1. Dang and yes it is a rule for me. This board will boot about 5% of the time with 2 sticks which I don't get. Another thing I don't get is I have to boot into bios and manually change the FSB back down to 200 from 250 or else the 2nd stick won't boot at all. I can't even clear CMOS and have the system boot. It's really frustrating having to remove the ram everytime I need to boot up my computer.
  2. I know if you only have 1 stick of ram its suppposed to go in the orange slot closest to the edge of the board but can I put it in the slot closest to the socket? I really need to because my xp-120 blocks that first spot so I have to remove the heatsink to get the ram out. The redlines with the new heatspreader is too tall to get out by itself.
  3. Well even though i won't be using the 4v jumper just the 1 jumper to get the options for higher voltage without using the 5v rail. Thanks for your help and I will give it a go. When I clear the cmos after I get all this to work, do I need to put the jumper back in the default position and redo those steps or can I just clear cmos and then go into bios?
  4. I didn't use auto. Do I need to put the jumper back to default and redo this though when I reset the cmos? I couldn't see the options anymore after I reset the cmos.
  5. I was upping the rail to 3.3v and I set the jumper like its supposed to be. I, for some reason, cannot get options for more than 3.2v. What am I doing wrong? I left the big jumper down one set of pins and placed a single jumper on 2 & 3 at the top of the board. I saw more voltage options but then I cleared cmos and now I can't get more than 3.2.
  6. Yea, I'm waiting till monday because I live 20 mins away from mushkins headquarters in denver :>
  7. Ok, I tested both sticks individually but for some reason the stick I thought was in the dead DIMM, is running fine it just won't boot warm/cold but the other stick does. What does that mean? It can't be the cold boot issue because I'll clear the cmos and the one stick that always boots, boots up fine. The other stick is like 50% no matter what I do.
  8. I have. They had me follow a guide to trouble shoot everything. I am clueless on what to do and its not something simple. All the power connections are plugged in and I've rma'd everything except the DFI board. Now it works and when it does work its awesome and rock solid but theres something not right and its been narrowed down to the board or 2 defective PSU's in a row. Which is more likely to have a problem? the board.
  9. I'm still not able to turn off my computer and turn it back on unless I wait 4 hours. I got my new PSU and it does the same thing as the now dead PSU. (Both pcpowerandcooling 510 SLI's). Does anyone have any advice before I RMA the DFI board. It just chills there with the LED's stuck on 3 lit. I checked all the rails and they are around .08 or less off.
  10. I was just wondering my Revision but I've never seen this revision. Is it just because it is a newer board or what?
  11. I've never heard of a killer mobo as a possibility but I just had 2 friend and we all used the 4v jumper with mushkin redlines and our PSU's all tanked after 2 months of use. We used 3 diff brands. Seasonic, OCZ, and PCpowerandcooling. We are all RMAing them currently and we requested to know what died on the PSU to see if all 3 of our problems matched. *edit* I also noticed others on these forums having their PSU's die on them with the DFI mobo.
  12. I'm trying to figure out what Rev. board I have and on the stickers on the PCI slots it says R.A B0 . What is that? I thought revs were R.A 0X X = 0, 1 , 2
  13. PCP&C is crossshipping my new power supply as we speak. Glad I got this resolved and thanks for your help prophecy <3
  14. Thanks for helping prophecy but your dead wrong and I mean that in a good way because I thought the same thing as you. Turns out either the PSU is bad or the motherboard because I left my computer running [email protected] and I was walking by the basement and I didn't hear my 65DBA fan running. I run downstairs and find that I can't even get the lights to turn on and my rails are reading 0 :confused: . I guess now I need to find out if its my PSU or mobo. Any ideas how? The trick to getting my computer to boot was waiting 4+ hours and then attempting to power it on. This leads me to believe that its a PSU issue because the PSU is the only piece of hardware that I can think of that would change something internally after 4 hours. (capacitors draining or something).
  15. Just tried clearing cmos for a full hour and to still no avail.
  16. Its not the cold boot issue that other people are having because it won't boot even if I leave the power supply on and the motherboard retains power. All I can do is restart the computer.
  17. I tried playing around with those settings to no avail. :confused:
  18. Even if i clear cmos, it still just hangs. Only time can fix it and its really getting annoying.
  19. Boy am I having a great time. I just got my RMA'd x850xtpe back tuesday and I installed it and my computer booted up with no problems. About 2 hours ago, I was opening steam and my computer was glitching everywhere. It was like I turned prime 95 on and turned it to realtime. The mouse cursor was disappearing and my teammates on ventrilo were cutting in and out. I shut down my computer. I go to turn it back on and low and behold I hit the power button to turn it back on and nothing comes up on the screen . I opened the case and 3 diagnostic LED's are lit. I think thats my ram. I tried both sticks separately to no avail. I tried clearing cmos except I've never removed the CMOS battery and don't really know how so I just moved the jumper over. Problem solvers start your engines! I figured I should add this in. I had this problem a while back and I RMA'd my gfx card because my screen fked up and so I thought my gfx card died. I had solved this problem in the past by waiting overnight and the next morning my computer would turn back on. It is the next morning for me and my computer boots up fine. This is still a problem however because everytime i need to shut my computer down, I can't wait around 8 hours for it to fix itself. All I do is power everything off, unplug the power cable, and sleep for 8-9 hrs and its fixed.
  20. Thats cool. Yea, I decided to try my luck with the 6/23-2 because I noticed thats what a lot of people with my exact setup use 24/7 or atleast to start off with. I'm reading through the ram settings explained post and figuring that out now. Thanks for the help.
  21. I am listening to his recommendation BUT I think I should get the 6/23-2 instead of the 6/23-3 because 2 is designed more for my ram or so I've been reading. Was trying to confirm this.
  22. wouldn't i need the -2. I heard that was better for UTT sticks.
  23. what bios should I start off with? I know you probably can't tell me which bios is best for me but I need somewhere to start :> I was gonna start with 7.04-2BT 1. based on 704-2 2. removed all the CAS settings that don't work 3. removed the added 0.1vdimm thats applied when you set TRCD to 2 4. unlocked some unknown register options (A , B , C , E , D) 5. Vcore bug of 704-X "removed" (123% and higher options have been removed, so safe to use) but I wanted a few opinions first.
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