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Clay

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Everything posted by Clay

  1. How do you know its the processor that not good to 250? At the current voltage. How do you know its not the mems that won't go past 240 with your current settings. Have you tried a divider yet? I really don't know. I read the thread but I don't see too well. And I may have missed it if you did. (I've killed 5 sticks of winbond UTT-BH5(2) and UTT-CH5(3) And that sounds like them okay.. [email protected] max. Oh yeah you can volt the heck outta' them for abit more but they won't last.Other peeps around here have killed more. But why? When you can put them onna' divider. Another good tip. If you havent allready done so get a fan on those mems for voltage of 2.9 or more. (For tccd its 2.7-2.8) I put fans on mems even at really low voltages. They'll error less and maybe last abit longer. Dividers are for tailoring your processor speed To your memorys limitations. Say your mems max out @240 at the dimm voltage-settings you like. With a 10 multi thats only 2400mhz. But we use the 9/10 divider we can push the procseeor to 260 or better. (while the mems are still running @nice speeds and timings they like.) With the 5/6 we can go further ect. Try a divider and work up you may need abit more vid in fact I wouild advise it.Especially if you are running those mems off the 5v rail. (To protect your cpu mem controller.)
  2. Naghhh... Don't flash if you don't need to . I saw that someone was suggesting it. And thought I'd better post instructions just in case. Winbonds are generally high voltage IC's. You can kill the processors mem controller using them.(@high voltages) Say your processor does 3ghz w/1.4 vid. Give it 1.47-1.5 to back up the controller. Don't forget to clock up to it no sense in wasting good volts. LOL If you need more don't be afraid of it. When using [email protected] voltage.. More processor voltage does shorten the life of a processor.(Electron Migration) However good cooling is "reputed" to slow this down. Heat is the enemy. The cooler you can make it the less voltage you'll need. The more voltage you can utilitise and still get more mhz's. (Processor scaling) Still it's allway good policy to be prudent with the vid. Careful attention should be paid to how the Vid+special add up. You should be fairly safe under 1.55 but unless your cooling is ok your processor may not scale to it anyway. Keep an eye on the temps. 55c load temps and I would usually back off on the mhzs and voltages (Unless it was Important) Nowadaze I try to keep things somewhat cooler than that. (Peace of mind mostly.I hate errors.And I like to keep the vid trimmed down.) Concerning processor life and voltages. At the speed processors are becoming dated nowdaze. Replacing a given processor is cheaper everyday. Normal life of a processor can be 20+ plus years. I have an 8086 mechine here that still runs just fine. But is it still usible? So don't worry too much. If you are careful you won't kill it. Best to you.... Enjoy... P.S. UTT=untested. The people who manufacture the sticks are supposed to test them. Oh yeah (awnser your first question)windows corruption can happen with unstable overclocks. Usually on a SATA before an IDE.(Bad timings) But I usually get a bios semi hosed up first.
  3. If you plan to run high voltage through your mems. You might need to back up your processors mem-controller with extra some voltage.(VID) Or use a ram booster. (Or both) Flashing bios is sticky. Be sure you follow proper procedure for that. Only flash if you really need to. Because even when done right under the best of conditions things can still go horribly wrong. Tmods cd is good. (I hope I remember this right.If anyone see's anything wrong here.Please jump in with the correction) 1#. Don't flash overclocked. (Load Optimised before flashing) 2#. Boot to Tmods cd. Select bios-----> 3#. Flash to selected bios. Once you start don't stop..(This is the step where we all hope our best ,For no power outages) 4#. After Flashing and pressing F1 to reset. Don't let the computer boot. I try stop mine just before the very start of the system repost. PSU switch usually works quite nice. Or sometimes I jus' like to rip the plug outta' the wall..hEHEE.. (Whatever is best for you.) 5#. Clear the CMOS. This is important. Unplug the PSU.(If you haven't allready) Pull the battery, Move the cmos jumper to the clear position. Drain the board-psu by hitting the power button. 6#. Wait...... This is something that people think I tend to go overboard on. I generally give it 15mins. Most peeps say 30sec-1+ min. But I figure 15mins or so is probably somehow abit better. 7#. Put the battery back in. Set the jumper to run. Plug the PSU back in. 8#. (Important)Fire er' up. But again don't let the mechine boot. Enter the bios and load "Optimised" save and exit.(Important) 9#. Enter the bios again, And start overclocking. I got in the habit from the nf2's to only enter bios changes 1-2 settings at a time. Helps prevent bios corruption. I don't know if that the case with nf4s but I tend to keep it in mind. 10#. And most important----> "Enjoy".... PS.. If I forgot anything or left anything out. Or the procedure has changed people please post up. Edit:While MHZ is king. I've noticed that my superpi's were somewhat faster @2900 (290X10)running tight timings and no divider than were @3014(274X11) with the same timings and a 9/10 divider. So it really does make some diffrence.
  4. Hummm..... I got mine fixed... Currently 252X10 again. TCCD Apparently every chipset is diffrent. On mine voltages as follows Cpu=1.825 AGP=1.5 Chipset=1.6 (Mine doesn't seem to like 1,7w/these sticks) VDimm=2.8 (252 is about max for the current [email protected] For stability. They need 2.8 and fans. without the fans errors occurre.(AZ ambients) These sticks will do 242 with 2.7 without fans but they get bloody hot. Just a quick test. I havent had time to fully prime yet but it looks good. It has done 48hrs with these settings.Timings in sig.(I thought I'd killed it,,,) But it seems OK now LOL. (Just a little rebuild was in order.) :tooth:
  5. Primong now @310X10 1-1 same voltage.(1.2*123=1.47vid.) I think I'll stop it prematurely and do some gaming. (Rough day)
  6. @Charmed Heresy? Oh my goodness! You should see me get off the beam. Someone will ask a simple question. (Which of course I will misread then misread thier sig. Then after that I'll confuse them with someone else and then tell then some stories about it.LOL i'm kinda' like "Magoo" I guess. Dang termites! Dryrot! LOL..... @KitFit: Yulp It jus chugged right on up there LOL. Pretty good, volts are still way low. I wonder if maybe I'm giving it too much? It's hard to say til I can test again. Those timings worked great! @Anyone in general or anyone interested: Could be off topic but it is amd overclocking..I pulled the LP-B apart again while nf4 was priming. Put it all back together. I actually got the loop contained in the box. I still like the dfi nf2's (sistah's).
  7. Thanks CP (I wasn't too sure) @KitFit your timing werled like a charm. Don't pay those temps no never mind. I forgot to put the bios correction back in the temps. Thise temps are a little too good considering the room is 85f.
  8. It's still chuggin' along quite happily. Slightly off topic question/: 'When I put my block on the 6800 gt On all my bga sinks the tape would no longer stick. So I left the sinks off til new ones could get here. I'm not gonna' cook it am I? (I kinda doubt it but I figured I'd ask maybe leave the NF2 turned off for abit.)
  9. Hehe.. Prime allways chuggs.... though it looks like it had to add another M thing on the 16k ffts. To make it chugg... LOL I think I may have found another new 24/7 setting. (Thanks)
  10. Thank you Sir. Post bookmarked. I'll try em' right now.. Edit:: Priming now @307X10 1.2*123. honestly I don't know if it even needs that much vid. But it might need more. I left the DOS @7 for now. And the LTD multi is still 3X. Edit 2: Chuggin' right along...... Edit3: Chuggin' chuggin' chuggin'........
  11. @syngensmyth: Did they happen to post thier ambients and reletive humidity for those test? I wonder if they were consistant. I myself don't really trust most reviews. It seems many of them have a tendency to omit important info. Or simply don't have the equipment for proper testing. And some of them are paid to fudge data. Still in all of the Big Air Sink reviews I've read they put the TR Ultra 120 at the top of the heap.(Or there abouts) In terms of cooling vs noise.(fannage) Concerning water: About all I'm gonna' say there is avoid kits.(Like the plague) Big air is better than most kits. (Like 95% of them. Most kits are pretty. But don't work worth a hoot. Some are just plain flat dangerious. Many are propertiery and upgrade parts are high dollar.Then you have to toss them anyway And start over because they just won't pull the gear.And they got your money. If you want water please take the time to study it. You'll be glad you did. (Saves money,time,grey-hair.computer parts,adinfinitem) IHS removal: Just a few things about that in case ya's didn't allready know. 1#. Don't cut too deep. 2#. Careful of the pins. 3#. Be sure you have a good solid progressive adjustible mounting system for your heatsink or block. Most stock heatsink mounting schemes won't work when the IHS is removed. (No spring-tension,mounting- preasure)Snap on stuff is bad in that many attach from one side first then must load on that edge until the seconed side snaps in. That can crush the core from the first edge as that is where all the leverage is being applied.
  12. TCCD? Yeah... It's all good you really shouldn't need any tips. It should auto up about as far as you'll need to go. Like Kit said: "Careful with the volts" . 2.8 with big a fan should be about max. In this OCDB I gave more than it needed and I don't think my chips needed that much either. But live and learn. Eh?... http://www.diy-street.com/forum/showpost.p...509&postcount=5
  13. I was having some trouble with my LP-B for awhile there. (random restarts.) Not too bad until recently though. Bios flash,clean install,new sata cables seems OK now. Haven't really started clocking er' back up there yet though. 220X10 @ 1.525vcore. ATM. Well we'll see I guess...
  14. I expect it's timings. But It passes everything,(As usual) Except prime and will give a minor app-game error if I play for along time and forget to save. Do you still have your OCDB for 310 1-1. Might I borrow a timing or 2#? When I get back to it. I figure I'll just go slow maybe find a better sweet spot in a little while. Right now my lp-b is really giving me the fit's.(That's what I'm working on now) Random restarts.. It started just after I got cable internet. I gotta' pull it all apart pretty soon. And see if I can find out what gives. If I can't make her fly straight maybe I'll probably buy another nf4 board. (Still half -heartedlylooking for an nf3 Ultra-d too.) About the only thing I can think of that I haven't tried yet is replacing the IDE cables. (That's next) Edit: It's abit early to say for sure. But I think I fixed it. Combo bios flash,clean install, and a new sata cable seems ok..
  15. @Kitfit: You sure did one heck of alot of work on that. 3179 Is one heck of an overclock. I haven't been clocking lately since the prime @307x10 failed. I thought I had it cinched but...... Fortune said no..(For awhile anyway)
  16. On topic part of my post.(Sorta') 307X10 and all is well.. Haven't primed yet but I've done a good deal of gaming and no problems, Slightly off topic maybe. @navinjohnson: I missed that in you sig. I also missed what you were saying about the Ultra 90 I though you meant to upgrade to an Ultra 90. Excellent choices. I think I'd try to start with a bigger rad though. Lets see If I can find that post that featured some testing by Radical_53 He did some excellent labrtory rad testing that was added to a [email protected] I'll see if I can dig it up for you. It's been awhile since I looked at Black Ice products but if I remember right. The extreme series rads were the rads designed to work best with high cfm fans.(Loud!!) MCR220 or a coolingworks-cooltek 22t. Or a BIP Black ice pro. All werk pretty good with low fannage. http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcqposerab.html <---mcr220 fairly quite....works OK It's really toy sitting next to a PA though.... or maybe http://www.petrastechshop.com/hwlablicegts.html or maybe 1 of these: http://www.dangerden.com/store/home.php?cat=86 or maybe...???? Anyway I'm trying to steer ya' at quiter dual core rads. Single core would work OK but I think the fannage recomended for BIX (Black Ice Extreme)might be excessively loud. Someone jump in and correct me if the BIX X-flows are not designed with high cfm fans in mind. Here ya' go this thread was started some time ago.By Marci of Thermochill later appended to incorperate some other testing done By Radical_53 on behalf of HardwareLuxx Magazine - Germany With several other rads. You'll have to scroll past the thermalchill stuff to get to the other diffrent rads. (X-flow Evtreme included.) Oh the link to the post with the nitty gritty.: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpo...111&postcount=1 Edit: Also I believe "Cathar" may have done some other rad testing more recently. But I'll have to go back and check.(Not sure but I think I saw something like that awhile back)
  17. This is a very interesting thread. I'll have to peruse this a few times.(Hopefully my understanding will increase) I've had diffrent results with diffrent Tref's mixed with various other settings. And tccd. For me if I recall right. 3120 wouldn't fly much past 280. While another member here has had good results to 310 using 3120. For 290 4196 was the 1 I settled on.. But I could never get 300 stable until I tried 3072. Seems ok @307 but I haven't really tested it yet.(Tested to 305 good though.) 4708 I don't think I ever really tried that one.(Maybe next time.) As it is I just have to try whichever one that looks like it'll work the best. And it either works or it doesn't.
  18. 2950 @1.4 vid? That's a very nice dual-core! Do you mean DDR400? (Double Data Rate) 200fsb=DDR400..(I'm sure you knew that though) 250fsb=DDR500. (Without a divider.1-1) Like unknown said try the 9/10 (180mhz)divider.Stay on your 13 multi. 4x ltd multi.(For now) You may need abit more vid +special but be very careful. You might read some of this. http://www.diy-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20823 Some of it could prove helpful. :angel: (Maybe if I read some of that myself I might do better) :tooth:
  19. I think I'd probably want something somewhat bigger. http://www.petrastechshop.com/sututo120hec.html ( http://www.petrastechshop.com/thulhecpucos.html <--also very heavy. Oh well enjoy.. LOL.. (Warning Tornados fans are loud! But they work nicely..) "SAE" posted somewhere around here. That to him 10c=20-30 mhz. Perhaps I've taken it abit out of context.(He was talking about phase cooling XP-M's) Still I've noticed that at a given voltage the gain seems to be about right. At least to my concerns. Water Cooling? Some stickies from XS if you are interested. It's usually best to read up on this stuff before jumping in. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=75873 http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=119699 http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54331 http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=41495 This looks like a pretty nice little guide too. They did alot more work on it since the last time. I checked. http://www.diy-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62974 Well done guy's..
  20. Most additives are for loops with mixed metals. (Aluminium+Brass=Bad) If you avoid mixing metals you really shouldn't need anything other than an algeacide. But be careful on what you pick there. "Petra" will have whatever you need.
  21. Distilled water and a dash of petstore algaecide. I'm thinking about ordering some stuff from "Petra" though. I'm gettin' kinda' tired of replacing my tygon every few months. (It gets ugly!)
  22. I myself really don't know exactly what you are looking for. But you might look around here for ideas. To see what'll fit and maybe work better. Cooler is better! LOL http://www.petrastechshop.com/cpuheatsinks.html Hope nobody minds the plug. LOL Edit: Yer' lookin' for a cpu and a vga sink right?
  23. Hehe.... Thermaphobia!!.. OH NO!! OMG!! I've got it too!! "Warning!:" It is very contagious and is only carried by known overclockers. And it's about the only condition known that is usually transmitted though an internet connection. Best advice I can offer for now is get a High End air sink. here. Becareful if you move your computer alot with the bigger ones though. They can be pretty heavy. Some examples : http://www.petrastechshop.com/cpuheatsinks.html Stay away from W/C kits! (Especially thermaltake-koollance these are only designed to get your money. It's kinda bad when a volcano12 will out proform someones pride and joy-pretty kit. (It strikes me as sad)Though Swiftech makes some really really decent kits. And "Petra" will assembile just about pretty much whatever you feel you need.(Box it all up and mail it at ya'.) It's best to research this stuff before buying anything. As diffrent parts will work better with diffrent other parts. (I'm fairly happy with mine. Theres extra maintainance in water but if done right it's well worth it.) There is no best watercooling. Only the best for you. "Clay's" Pharmacy's for his thermaphobia. http://www.petrastechshop.com/ http://www.dangerden.com/ http://www.frozencpu.com/index.html <---High dollar but they may have things others don't. Recomended initial treatment.(Why waste time and money?) http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g41/Phase_...tml?id=u5XAn5nw Some pretty good used units can be had cheaper than Uber Water. Plus lower maintaince. Warning: Storey time..LOL When I went from an xp90 to my current w/c. I was able to run at my 24/7 settings. With a slight reduction in voltage. My suicide shot superpi's I was able to gain about 130mhz's on the 32ms and 145mhzs on the 1m's. The processor at the time wouldn't scale past 1.65vid with the xp90. But under H2O it would go to 1.7. (1.695 board settin's-calc. I don't have a clue as to what it really was.)That's as far as I tested it. Current processor doesn't seem to like high volts. Oh well...LOL Long storey short. Cooler is almost allways better.
  24. @Ed: Hehe.... Enjoy ... I had some hopes of catching you. But I sorta' ran into a a glitch of sorts. (LOL) Now where this glitch actually exist. It's really hard sayin' . Hardware,software,timings,voltages. Or between the chair and keyboard. (Later being most likely the crux of the problem) I expect a platform upgrade or phase cooling maybe a ways down the road for me especially since the other day I decided that my "Litespeed" was still a 1/2lb too heavy. I haven't played with pi's for coupla' daze.(Taking a break!) But still I hope to improve. (Allways...) @Kit: Thanks I didn't know about that. I've semi corrupted bios before to the point I had no choice but to simply reflash.(Superpi's) I wonder if this would have worked in those cases. (I'll be sure to try it next time) @Will: That's the generally accepted method of overclocking nf4 is divider to the tightest timings. But to be honest I think you'll have to test to be sure. I'm saving the big sticks for my next platform. Which doesn't look like anytime soon.
  25. Thank you "Kitfit", I'll sure give er' a whirl. I don't use cmos saves.(Cmos reloaded?) but I'll sure disable that thing. And re-enter everything from optimised. Prime good 5-1/2hrs sofar. @My 24/7 setting. Edit:@KitFit: Is that thing supposed to turn itself back on? It looks like disabling it clears everything then it turns self back on. (Kinda' neat lol)
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