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Posts posted by Clay

  1. In return I get lap dances and overnight meaningless relationships. It's a pretty good deal.. :)


    That's about the only part of my drinkin' daze I really miss. The drunk chicks and the meaningless overnight relationships. :angel: I guess after they'd had thier first six pack I'd start lookin' like ol' Gary Cooper er' sumptin'.(Kept me from gettin' too drunk sometimes anyway:nod:) Lap-dances never really cared for that too much. Why start sumptin' you can't finish? :drool:

  2. Just put a fan on the memory sticks that will cool the PWMIC somewhat too. (Though for 2.6 you shouldn't need to worry about that.) 65c!!! Mack is right somethings wrong there.



    New overclocker? (Hehee Welcome!)

    Does it need 1.35vid for 2.2 ghz? Most people base thier cpu voltage and clocking speeds on thier processor temps. (errors withstanding of course.)


    Every processor will clock diffrently and all of them seem to need diffrent voltages for diffrent clocks. Some don't scale very good and others never seem to stop. Some will do awesome overclocks at stock voltage. And others have trouble just a little past stock speed.


    So my best advice. Jus' for playing with it. (Til' ya' decide to get serious.)

    Is move the fsb up in 1-2 mhz increments. Don't jump up there a whole lot.all at once. Set the divider to 1-1 for now. (Save that til' ya' see memory errors. Then you can use the divider or refine your timings and or both)


    Not enough voltage for the mhzs windows won't boot. Get it further off you'll getta' bsod on boot. Further off you'll get no bios boot. And you'll have to clear the cmos. (Or much worse!) So go slow.


    Test by gaming(1/2hrs er' so)and superpi's for quick testing for now. When ya' get up there a little bit and start getting some errors. When you see a superpi error or game crash-error. Try raising the core voltage just a little bit. See if it helps. Keep an eye on yer' temps when yer' doing that too. Heat can cause errors too. Also after a point you'l need to start lookin' at yer' memory timings-voltages too. (Memtest and other utilities will help ya figure this out) It gets really hard to tell memory errors from processor errors.


    When ya' get some settings ypu think you like. You'll want to do some real stability tessting. This forum uses SP-orthos. (Myself I prefer prime95t) And a gambit of 3dmark benches.(See the "Overclockers data base")


    Overclocking is truly a black art. Going slow saves time. And ya' can't learn it all at once. Bottom line.. Go slow easy does it. Til' ya' get the feel of this thing. But don't be afaiid of it. Making mistakes is how we learn.


    Edit2: Why would you want to try to max it out all at once? Save sumptin' for a rainy day. besides that's usually jus' somekinda' shortcut to a whole bunch of trouble. Oh well.... What's important is you have some fun and learn sumptin'...LOL

  3. You can do better. Than any of those. Don't buy a kit! Except maybe a swiftech or a Petra kit. The dangerden kit looks they are trying to close out the stuff that didn't sell. The other kits I looked at and buying a high end air sink would probably be somewhat better.


    All you need is a decent block,pick a nice rad.(Rad makes the biggest diff) And a good pump. And some 7/16" ID master clear tubing. Be sure everything is plumbed with 1/2" barbs.A T-fitting and a fillsport. BIX for a rad is not really a good choice unless you like lotsa' noise.(They need fairly high cfm fans) An MCR220-320 are good choices. As they rate a little better than BIP or BIX for a rad.(BIX wants lotsa' fannage to work good) If money is a problem just buy 1 piece atta' time. That way you won't be sorry. (I spent nearly a year studing and collecting the pieces for my main rigs loop. And I'm really glad I did.)


    http://www.petrastechshop.com/pecoli.html This should be much better than any of those kits.

    Ooops sorry radodrill I posted the same link...


    Anyway all you need is a good block. Maze4 or better.

    Decent rad: 2core at least BIPII or III or MCR220-320...Or better yet a PA120.2-.3(Be sure it has 1/2" barbs though 3/8" will work ok but you'll loose a c or 2 maybe more.. This stuff adds up though so its best to shoot for 1/2" from the start. Plus the costs to upgrade it's cheaper if you start with 1/2" barbs.

    Try not to pick a rad thats designed 100+cfm fans. (Or else your multimedia gaming enjoyment could be somewhat lessened by excessive noise)


    Some 7/16"ID masterclear tubing.5-6ft at least.Better make it 8" just to be safe... Hopefully you won't need all of that be it pays have some extra.Unless of course your rad and pump and block are plumbed with 3/8" barbs.(Then you need 3/8's LOL)

    Though I use 1/2" ID tygon on my main rig aqs it's easier to fit over the barbs.


    Then you'll need a pump. In this regard bigger is not allways better. Unless you've selected a rad that can handle the extra heat dump. So if you pick a mcp655-d5 pump you might want a tripple core rad. To handle the extra heat dump from the pump. This one of the things that set you above most kits. In that you can easily upgrade or replace should the pump fail..


    Heres an example of a decent little pump. http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadenmagiile.html For a maze4 cpu block and an mcr220 it should be ok.. Or maybe http://www.petrastechshop.com/ddb12inpu.html


    Fans: You'll need a coupla' decent fans for your rad. Lately I've been buyin these yates-loones. But other fans can work as well. I will site these for the rated cfm to my observed heat and advertised noise to my observations. On the MCR220 47cfm rate 28db totally silent as best as I could tell. But on the mcr220 on the lp-b I thought my temps were abit high. All of my 70cfm(33db) fans are on the pa. (I can't hear those either.) So I used a some of these 88's I had laying around (40db) I hear those somewhat but they are not annoying. My load temps dropped 3-4c .


    (I suspect kinda' the 47cfm fans on the PA wouldn't run much warmer.But I can't hear the 70's so why worry.)

    And oh yeah rad boxes are nice too.


    And oh you'll need a t-fitting and fillsport.To make a T-line. Much better than a res. I think everyone agrees on that.


    Still I kinda' rue not buying an MCR320 for that rig.MCR220 is ok though. Temps would be better with a smaller pump But I was inna' hurry and had to get that rig quitened down. Loved 1's were complaining! They couldn't sleep at night. Didn't bother me though.(2#92mm tornados howling all night long might do that) With the 47cfm fans my temp were about the same as the volcano12-tornado combo.(Except my gpu is also cooled now) Now my loads are 3-4c cooler. And everyone sleeps. 37-8c load 30+c ambients. about an 8c delta between ambient and load @current settings. On that rig.


    Whatever you do please don't buy a kit. (Except maybe a petra or swiftech w/ 1/2" barbs) Spend a little time working it out for yourself. People who buy kit's are usually in too much of a hurry. To do the math and nearly allways suffer for it. (Kit makers see ya's comming) They give ya's flimsey crap. many with non replacible parts. Often propertiery stuff that won't fit with anything else. High dollar upgrades if they have them. Plus they usually don't work worth a hoot.


    Do youself a favor and read up. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=70


    I don't think you'll see any kits there though. Except that custom thing someone there is building. Don't worry about that though. The guy is swamped with orders. Besides its nothing you can't build yer'self cheaper.


    Read up and you'll thank yourself for it.


    Edit PS. Sorry about the length of this post. Sometimes I type aloud.

  4. To make a comparision between air and water like that. You would need a lab. To test. Using the same system and exact config. Using the most exacting mounting methods. (As block-sink mounting preasure,paste consistancy can make a big diff.) Also during the time between tests ambient conditions in the room and case can change alot.


    I noticed the 21-26c diffrential(delta)between your ambients and load temp.

    With my current config and settings(In sig) and ambients.(85f) My delta is only 7c.When priming.Between room ambient and load temps. though I expect when gaming it could be a abit more. I expect an AMD dual core my delta would still be onlly about 9c. From what I've seen of systems of simular configs over at XS.(Pending voltage and clocks.and ambients of course.) If you want me to warm it up and shoot ya' a screen shot I will.


    When I was running my opteron.(true single core) cpu loop only.At 2800 my delta was only 3-4c. (between room ambient and load temps. (Digital thermo right by the rad)


    Side note: My opty would cold bugg @8c. Cold morning computer wouldn't fire. LOL... Looks like your processor is a nice canidate for phase cooling.


    (Edit:At that time I typed this post I was running 310X10.1.225*1.26%vid)

    My current delta is less only 5-6c 305x10 1.175*123%


    Edit2: Oh missed that!(Sorry) -17c case ambient.(Thats much better!) But remember the colder your ambients the narrower your delta should be.. Or rather the hotter the wider...

  5. Oh the barbs? I jus' tighten em' up til' I'm happy. Then I preasure test for 24+ hrs before allowing any juice to the board or other electronic parts.


    Humm.. No gpu block? 7/16"+ ID tubing? D5 pump? Tripple core rad? Maze4 cpu block? I think you'll be pleasantly surprised by your temps. You should be at least. Though the near 100cfm fans maybe abit overkill for a BIP. They'd be about right for a BIX though. (No worries though)


    92mm Tornado's I think most us can relate to those. I usta' run 2# of those on 1 rig. When I finally got water on that computer. I had some trouble sleeping at night.(Guess sumptin' was missin'.) Watercooling sure is nice..

    I can hear my games and my movies. Without people complaining about my speakers bein' cranked up.


    On my main rig. I also sat my pump and rad outside my case with the side off the case. Not terribly pretty,but works really nice.


    On the lp-b the rad is mounted via swiftech radbox on the back of the case.and the pump is mounted to the drive bays. Side off the case. This is a very very ugly computer Becasue the case is a broken beaten freebie. With cheap black paint. But it usually works very nicely..I've named it "Nightmare"".

    (In case anyone was wondering.) To me its the inner beauty that counts anyway.LOL


    @wevsspot: T-lines do make a diff as far as temps go. (Preasure-drop)But it would have to be a pretty nasty restrictive-swirling res before we'd notice it. Or even really be able to measure it. And to measure it with any certainty we'd need all kinds a sensors, and a very controlled envioroment. (I've never noticed a diff.) But then my res is a huge oversized brass t-line. Made of 1" ID brass pipe and pretty massive T. !/2"ID-3/4" od barbs. It works just like a t-line except it has lotsa extra capicity. And I get abit more preasure drop. But it makes it alot easier to get all the air out of the PA.

    Edit: Oh yeah the lil' LP-B Still uses a regular T-Line with delerin fillsport. it works so nice I may go back to a regular T-Line on the ultra-d. (Except for getting all the air out of the PA.) It's much nicer.

  6. @will....1's cracked and the other is 1/4' I'd and clogged. As far as how well they worked when they were new my best guesstimation is yer' better off on air.


    You maybe oughta' wait til' yer coffers are fuller and maybe order onea' deez:

    http://www.petrastechshop.com/cpuwaterblocks.html which ever 1 makes the most sense to ya'. (Or from frozencpu dangerden or whoever has what ya' need for what yer' doin'.)


    Prices on the maze 4's are pretty good right now. $35.00 Apogee gt about $50.00 +shpng.


    What have you got for it sofar ? Rad? Pump? T-line? Fillsport? Fans? Tubing? Have ya' got yer rad all nice and cleaned up on the inside with vinegar? (That allways keep me busy for along time prepin' stuff) All you need is a block?

  7. Welcome back ED, Kitfit1 and clay lol you guys been slacking :D


    I know. I'm sorry. I've been busy lately in other forums. Helpin' peeps with thier watercoolin'. Tryin' to shoo em' away from kits. "Koolance" and "Thermotake" in paticular. But most kits in general make the Oh No :sad: list. (They have no bussiness in water-cooling anyway) All the blocks I have that would be of any interest you are in use. The others you don't want and nobody else does either. And I wouldn't wish them on the most hated person in the cosmos. LOL.. I got em' free for a reason.... :angel:

  8. It's really hard to say.What you can expect. Mostly depends on your processor. I think you'll find that in the same models they can all clock quite differently. 146 some will run outta' gas just past 2600 some can go to 3170.

    If you wrote down the exact steppings and date off the processors IHS. You can check in the OCDB here. And google and if it is a "known" stepping maybe get a ballpark idea.


    Also it would be a good idea to ID the IC's on your memory sticks exactly.(CPUz will show the model nos#.) And google. Or techpowerup's memory data base or XS. Or PM an OCZ rep here at the street.For good timings. Though you can sometimes tighten them up.


    Overclocking is a black art. I never really did learn how to do it "right" myself. (I'd rather be lucky than skilled....LOL) After that I jus' crash it til' it werks.




    My overclocking methods notwithstanding. I can still offer a coupla' pointers. Go slow. Easy does it.

    (Hurryin' wastes alot of time.) Be ever mindfull of the voltages and the temps. It's usually not a good idea to just jump up there. Unless someone else has the exact processor steppings-date and exact memory models and pn#'s. Cooling,ect... Even then you may have to make adjustments. (Go slow saves time)

  9. Humm... I get better boot times with my Raid-0 array. Hdd tach sez better by nearly X2 through-put. But I don't keep any important data on them. OS-games ect. Anything of import goes on my storage drives. I don't keep any data worth raid-1.

  10. When I was running a true single core w/no ihs . On a cpu only loop. My temps were just about the best for straight H2O. (In fact I've never seen better anywhere.(The Best))


    But now since I added the maze4. And swapped processors. My temps seem to be quite alot hotter even though the processor is usually running at somewhat lower voltage.


    Of course my actual temps depend mostly on the Ambient temps. And the higher the ambients the wider the delta between Ambient and load.


    Idle:What it said it was is just another reason not to trust board sensors

    Idle: What it sez it is.Is bout Ambient + 1.5-2c Depending on voltage and ambients.

    Loads were: Like I said depended on voltage and ambients. Never saw 40c though.(Even at 1.7)

    Average was 3-4c+ cooler if memory serves.


    Loads: What they are well here see for yourself. Room ambeint is 29.6(Right next to the Rad) Voltage is 1.55vid (Forgot to put it back from yesterday. My memory is like a steel trap!!! LOL...) Everest was bouncin' between 36-38 but spent most of it's time @37c so I snapped the screenie @37c(What it really is. I don't have a clue)




    One of the reasons for my apparent extra heat is the storm is designed to work the best on true single cores with no IHS. And my current processor is actually a dual-core with 1/2 disabled.(It's topless though) So my heatload is no longer in the center of the impringments jets.(That has to hurt) I don't believe a Dual-core could really run a whole lot hotter. (Some fer' sure but not much) Plus the maze4 added some heatdump. And some preasure drop. Further aggravating the stiuation. Plus theres abunch of lint in my rad! LOL


    Also I'm not using near as much clamping force on my mount as I was. And I'm using diffrent thermal paste. Plus the cpu diode is a diffrent 1. So really who knows?) Hehe... Plus a bunch of stuff I probably forgot. LOL... LOL I think you get the picture.. The bottom line is: "It's working nicely. So I really shouldn't complain. At least not too much..."

  11. Hehe failed @315 But I was being thick about the timings again..LOL I'll give er' another shot abit later after some gaming... LOL I'm sure It'll fly After a coupla' adjustments.(Secondary timings. I thought there was a chance she'd fly as is.)

  12. nope never


    Maybe you should get out there an race! Good ol' superpi's. Tryin' to set Ed back is usually good for a reflash.(Sometimes 2#) But level-headed overclocking will save grey hairs.(Not to mention Installs,boards,cpus,cmos-chips and memory sticks)) But whats a life without adventure? Besides everyone has to upgrade once inna' while. LOL..... :angel:

  13. S-Pee-ing now @312 These eepe plats seem togo a bit further than my elpe plats 315? Kit? Ok I'm on it then. I think I'll put in an OCDB @312. (If I can)

    Then start playing fior more. Yulp it needed DOS 6 for 310. Still @2.7+003% though. 7hrs to go. As far as the processor goes it should do 3200 fairly easy.But I really havent got that far yet. I got a 32m pi outta' it @3267 1.25X126 I was stoked...(But it was slower than my others)


    Edit failed @312 (2hrs)so I gave The vdimm 2.8 moved the vid up just abit.and now trying 315.


    Good sofar only 7hrs 59mins to go.. LOL Chuggin' right along LOL....

  14. @KitFit: Thank's I thought I was losing what remains of my mind. LOL...


    @OC... I like the way you did your pi's OC. Tightest timnigs to the highest mhz's biggest divider it would fit on. Came out pretty nice.(Knocked me off my perch LOL) I still haven't been able to beat my old scores. Though I can 32m the mhzs a good deal further then 3200mhz. (I think this bios is somewhat slacker and I havent put very many twaeks into winhoes) Lately I've been kinda' leaving it alone. (I hate bios corruption.) Thats maybe a direction I go in .


    @Exeryone I'm wondering If my sticks will pull 312..


    @Charmed: "Her" computer is C2D? Extreme? Hummm..... The implacations! (Though she probably built it herself)

  15. Like I said I'll have to go back and test. But I'm pretty sure memory serves in that instance. Or I would have certainly kept going in that direction. Another thing has come to mind. But again I'll have to retest to be certain. In fact Maybe... This will werk..


    Edited The 3dm01's were abit faster @3014. (About 400pts.) Humm... Now I'll have to test that. Just to be sure my brain hasn't departed!

  16. If I remember right. I was under the impression. That my superpis were faster @290X10-2900mhz 1-1 than they were with the same [email protected] 9/10. That's why I never bothered to carry on in that direction. (My first 3ghz entry) Wasn't a real big diffrence.But none the less somewhat faster. I suppose I could pull up all those settings. They are all in the OCDB. And recreate those conditions, And post up some screens. As a sanity check. (I don't think my memory has gotton that bad. But I suppose it is possible ..)

  17. Why would you use a divider if you don't have to? Isn't that kinda' like taking a shower wearin' a raincoat? I might not have much chioce when going further. I can go 11-12 multi's or dividers. I guess when I get around to opening those cans of worms. I think I'll try to use which ever give me the best bandwidth at the target speeds. But right now where I'm at pretty good for 24/7. (And I'm really bad with timings.)

  18. Hummm.... Looks like a lot of the stuff I was gonna' say has allready been said.

    (Apogee O-ring,board sensors.)


    What I've gathered about the O-ring:

    Fir IHS apps the apogee gt is reputed to be about as good as any other water- block. As allready mentioned: Using the thick O-ring will warp the waterblocks base.(Convex) To better mate with the intels now becoming infamous IHS's.(concave) Once done though it can't be undone.Flatter IHS's won't mate up nice again. People are reporting better temps by doing that though.

    Some info here...



    I must say I was abit disappointed when I first saw my MCR220. It's only about 1/3rd the size of the PA.. And my idle temps are quite abit higher than with the volcano12 Extreme with a 92mm tornado.(Actually 2# tornados) But my load temps are somewhat nicer. (And lots quiter.. :) ) Plus my gpu is now cooled.The 47cfm fans mine shipped with were abit too weak to cut the mustard.(At least to my concern) Though the swiftech kit ships with 81cfm fans which are comparible to the fans I'm now using. It seems okay for the moment. But I've taken it to mind to order an MCR320. $55.00 +shpng. Mounted with 88cfm fans Just to maybe knock down the temps a couple-few more degrees. Currently Ambient 29.2c,idle 34c cpu load 37-8c.


    Another thing might make some diffrence is if the computer is stuffed under a desk or in a confined space temps can go up if air doesn't circulate fairly freely.

  19. Did someone mention watercooling? (I jus luv to type about watercooling)


    I just spent about 2hrs typing about watercooling and decided this was the wrong section. Hehe... It takes a pretty decent W/C to catch some of these new high end air sinks. Many kits can't beat a volcano12. I've got a coulpa' improvements sorta' on my todo list. For watercooling. First though I'm gonna' get an mcr320 for the lp-b.(It seems ok as is though)

    Then I'm thinkin' about adding a seconed PA120.3 to the loop. Preasure drop of 2#PA120.3's is somewhat less than 1 mcr320 so........ Gain maybe 2-3c with a bigger pump. Oh well... It's just about time for my PowerNap so after I refresh some neurons. I'll be back..LOL...


    That's all I'm gonna' say about that for now here. Wrong section...

  20. On the nf4 I've lost a very few installs. 3-4 maybe 5. "Usually" repair fixes it anyway.


    It was worse on the nf2 when I was trying to be a "Neo jr" and trying to get 278fsb single channel stable @t1. My sata hated that! Fnally I caught on and swapped out for an IDE. And win98se. Never got my goal on that..LOL......

  21. Congrats will on the new proc. I hope its a good 1. I'm 9+hrs prime stable. Chuggin' along rather nicely. vid is 1.53 by the board settings. Dimms are 2.7+.003 And too be honest I really don't know it needs even that much I'm jus' playin' with it.




    For the moment I think I'm content with that. When going for more I'm really not too sure about how I want to try to go about it. There are too many options. Tighter timings 12 multi or maybe those timings and a divder.Or maybe even try cas2 big multi and divider. Or how about AUTO? LOL....310 was pretty easy for me because Kit had allready done the all work on the timings.(Thanks) I'm horrible with timings. (allways have been)My settings are only slightly diffrent.

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