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ganders75

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Everything posted by ganders75

  1. I'm afraid i dont know your sticks either, but you can still use the standard procedure for setting up your sticks. MemTest each stick individually in the orange slot furthest from the CPU. Run tests 5&8 for 10+ passes each, then all tests overnight. If both sticks pass this then try both sticks in the orange slots. If this fails, repeat the whole procedure with the yellow slots. Post your settings from the Genie BIOS and we'll see if we can't get you up and running... Also something else to consider, your PSU only just meets the bare minimum in terms of 12V rail, and is below spec in terms of total wattage... Do you have access to another one from the recommended list that you can try?
  2. Yeah, PSU is suspect. There is a reason that the low wattage versions of these are so cheap, and although it might power your board ok in the interim, i'd suggest spending anothing £30 and getting maybe the corair HX520 (Maybe you can find it cheaper - but it is available in the UK here)
  3. Your best bet is to use another drive in the PC as your OS. I'd definately recommend getting a nice 10K Raptor to run your OS off. Also, as stated above ALWAYS install your OS onto at least a separate partition, for exactly the reasons stated above. If it gets hosed (and it will do because MS is rubbish) then you'll be able to blow it away and reinstall your OS without effecting your data. Your other option is of course to reinstall windows directly over the top of the existing install partition. This will result in a second bootable OS on the drive, which would allow you to backup your files. Of course, once this is done, you'll definately want to blow the whole partition away and start from scratch with a fresh install. A couple of things you could try before you blow anything away, but please note: many of these have potential to make things worse for your OS, not better: * How to remove Windows XP Service Pack 2 from your computer * How to install and use the Recovery Console in Windows XP and for some more general informaion: * Troubleshooting XP startup issues
  4. Nice choice on that PSU. I hope you have luck with it, and it sorts out your current problems... Post back, let us know...
  5. @Ceroth, might be time to start again from scratch to verify what you are seeing... /Try the following: MemTest each DIMM on it's own in the furthest orange. If you are stable for 8hrs+ with each one, put the other in the remaining orange slot and MemTest again. If you are stable, then ensure you have _no_ hardware other than your video card, single stick of memory and the drives you are installing from (CD) and to (single HDD). Try the install with a known good XP SP2 slipstream disk. Do NOT press F6 for 3rd party drivers, unless you intend to run a RAID setup. Follow through and post your results.
  6. Also, depending on the BIOS on your board, either the orange or yellow slots will be preferred. The 704-2bt BIOS is supposed to be fairly RAM friendly, and may be a good option to use the sticks in any of the slots... More than likely, all the slots are fine, and would post just fine with some higher quality RAM and/or a more friendly BIOS...
  7. Have you already tried a Full CMOS clear (linkage in sig)? If the short clear doesn't work, try the progressively longer clears. Follow the directions in the post exactly, if you skip a step (for example, no PS/2 keyboard) then you'll have to start that clear from scratch...
  8. Sounds like it's time for you to read up on the AMD Overclocking Guide. It is a great resource for information like you are after. Did you run MemTest over your memory for 12+ hours? This will give it a good stress test and let you see if your timings are close. You should then boot into windows (if possible) and run OCCT, Prime and your other stress testing software. I'd also maybe think that your power supply could be the cause of your problems. How old is it? Maybe it is starting to deteriorate?
  9. Think RGone is suggesting that if it is making that much noise then it may infact be damaged. Mine is also pretty noisy, and i have an evercool that i'm waiting to install. One word of warning though: AS5 is electrically conductive, so may not be a good choice for the chipset. AS Ceramique is non-conductive, and in most tests is almost as good as AS5.
  10. Not sure which link you are referring to - but RGone posted this the other day and i think it will sort you out. Run the EXE inside with a floppy in the drive and it will create your F6 disk. That said, i still use the driver disk that came with the Mobo as it worked first time, and i've never had a problem... You can also slipstream the drivers onto an XP disk and do it that way, if you're doing a fresh install...
  11. KimTjik is right on the money. If you aren't MemTest stable, you shouldn't even be booting into the OS, as it will just end up getting corrupted and need reinstalling. What BIOS are you running on the board? Generally, the 704-2bt (Big Toe Modded BIOS) is the RAM friendliest BIOS - and this may help you solve some of your RAM related problems.. What is the model number of your memory - are these the 3-3-3-8 sticks?
  12. If you are going to flash any BIOS onto your board - you should be using TMod's BIOS CD. It is by far the easiest and safest way to flash a BIOS onto these boards... but as above, your problem doesn't sound like something that a new BIOS will fix. Sounds like your install of SP2 is bad, either due to a bad disk or corruption or the like...
  13. Just a thought, but if you really don't want to lose the data on your array, perhaps you should be running raid-1 rather than raid-0? With raid-0 you double your points of failure, and you are twice as likely to lose all the data due to a disk failure...
  14. Perhaps I wasn't clear enough: your first step is to use the guide and do a short CMOS clear. That may fix the problem. Follow the guide completely - every step. If that doesn't work, try the progressively longer ones... All i was saying is that i have actually heard of boards being brought back from the (seemingly) dead using this procedure, and it has occasionally required a long clear...
  15. Do a full CMOS clear as shown in my sig. If the short one doesn't work, try the 24hrs. It may sound weird, but a clear (sometimes even as long as 72hrs!) has been known to clear up problems just like yours...
  16. This really does sound very much like the issues we've seen with the early batch of Ballistix. It runs great for ages, and then slowly starts to deteriorate until eventually you can't even boot... Have a read of the thread, and you'll see what i mean. From what you've said, I really do think that you're up for an RMA on those sticks.
  17. Haha - my bad - actually i breezed his sig and didn't even notice a PSU on there! ;o) Dave and H_G known their crap though, so i'm sure he will not be disappointed... There's a few people on here using those GTO's - i'm still trying to convince myself not to buy a couple of them myself to be fair ;o)
  18. Firstly, you should really be sure that you get a PSU off the recommended list. They are on there because they are known good performers, and are used by many, many members here... Secondly, the expert and SLI-DR have different connectors - but all must be plugged into the Mobo. Any other information is out of date, and should be ignored. Lastly, have you considered the MSI 7900GTO? This is basically an underclocked GTX and it is much cheaper...? Of course, you can then OC it yourself (with some decent cooling)...
  19. If you get even one error in MemTest then you shouldn't even be booting into the OS. If you do, there is every chance that it will end up hosing your OS just as you say. MemTest as suggested, and if you find errors try the stock speed database. If you try these settings and are still getting problems, then you probable have a bad stick. Try testing each one in the furthest orange, one at a time. If you get errors on just one of them then you'll be best off starting the RMA process to get them replaced. For a large thread on just these kind of problems with your RAM - check here
  20. Have you read through the overclocking guide? Even if you don't intend to overclock, it gives great information on the different timings that appear in your BIOS... I'd really recommend you give it a look...?
  21. Dude, you really need to read through the link that playah posted first up...? If you do you will see that this is a common problem with the early series of the Ballistix sticks. Basically, they stop being able to run at rated speeds and you just have to take them slower and slower... Your only real option appears to be an RMA. You should receive the new batch in return, which i'm told do not exhibit the same problem...
  22. Have you done the full 24hrs CMOS clear as requested above - or only a short one? It can make a difference - i've even heard of boards coming back from the dead after a 72hr clear (yes, that is 3 days!)
  23. Yeah - can sometimes be pretty fiddly, I can't see mine either... here's hoping then - it sure would be a cheap fix ;o)
  24. yu, don't forget that with the AMD architecture on these chips your memory controller is actually part of the CPU itself. Hence, switching out the CPU, you also change your memory controller... Good luck with your system!
  25. I used to run one of those Modstream 520s before i upgraded to my current PSU. It was nice and stable, a good PSU - only real problem is the sleeved cables which aren't all that easy to bend, making tidying them out of the way a nightmare... No problems RE: driving my rig though - never even had a twitch...
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