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ganders75

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Everything posted by ganders75

  1. Hi, posted in your old thread - so thought I'd add a little more info here too. Well, your first issue is getting Memtest to run from the BIOS. If you aren't MemTest86+ stable - you shouldn't even be attempting to boot into the OS. All you will do is totally bollox your OS and need a reinstall... Try adding a little more juice to the CPU - maybe just adjusting the CPU Special VID to 104% or somewhere there... You can also mess around a little with both the drive and data drive strengths. If none of this helps then it looks to me like those sticks have a problem. Thing is - at stock you shouldn't really need to be messing about with any of that stuff... RMA may be your only option to get stable. Assuming that they are really the GE2GB3200BDC sticks - then they should be running 3-4-4-8 pretty much as stated @ stock. If you are getting MemTest errors at that speed - then it has to be either your PSU (which you've changed), the Mobo itself, your CPU or your sticks. Can you try with a different stick - borrowed/stolen from a friend maybe? ...If that one works - I'd definately RMA the sticks if they aren't stable.
  2. Don't worry too much about your RAM at this stage. The most likely cause of your troubles was not having that floppy connection plugged into the Mobo. Follow Sharps advice - if your PSU is good, and your memory settings are correct, we should be able to get you stable at stock - then you can start your overclocking... To check memory stability most people will let MemTest run for 8+ hours. This is because sometimes heat and extended usage can cause the issues... Run 5&8 for 10+ passes each - and then leave all tests to run overnight. If you wake up and have no errors - you are memtest stable.
  3. What if you just change it back again? Do you still get the same message? Even quality PSU's can turn up and need an RMA occasionally... If not, begin again from scratch - try the full CMOS clear, load optimized, etc.
  4. Are you SuperPI, OCCT and Prime95 stable at your current settings? If you are unable to load windows at stock - and you've replaced your HDD with another one - then i'd probably be leaning towards a PSU that is starting to go bad. Your OS is definately hosed - you'll have to reinstall another one... and i'd be looking to beg/borrow/steal another PSU from the recommended list to try and test with...
  5. All 4 power connections must be plugged in for stability. This is a requirement, not an option (regardless of what video card you are running, or what memory etc) - definately, definately plug them in. If you still have a problem - follow the full CMOS clear (linkage in sig) exactly. If you miss a step (if, for example, you don't have a PS/2 keyboard) then your results will be invalid and you'll have to start over...
  6. TMod has this kind of thing available over on biosmedic.com.. But first - have you tried the full CMOS clear first - linkage in sig? It will often bring back a machine from the seemingly dead...
  7. This will sometimes happen when you fully power down the system and unplug anything... Do the full CMOS clear - linkage in sig... If even the long clear doesn't make a difference, try building out of the case... same result?
  8. Are you trying to boot with only one stick installed, furthest orange slot? Do you have all 4 power connections plugged into the board?
  9. Can't see anywhere above where someone has asked this - so do you still get the problem with only one of your gfx cards installed, SLi disabled...?
  10. 8800 series cards require a true 16x slot to run at full speed. Both the standard and expert series of the DFI nf4 boards are currently only able to run the second PCI-E slot at 8x speed (in SLi mode) or 2x (in standard mode)... Also, make sure that the card actually fits in your case! ...these cards are massive, something like 275mm long, which rules them out of all but the larger cases without modifications... Have you considered the Alphacool NexXxos NB-SLI chipset block? Not sure if it will fit with an 8800 - but they are designed to be low profile for the DFI boards...
  11. Just one final thought for people that read this later (if any ;o)... one stick should always be in the furthest ORANGE slot from the cpu. It _may_ work in the furthest yellow - but this is not guaranteed and is BIOS dependant...
  12. As suggested earlier - you have the NoiseTaker II which is known to have cold boot issues with the board. Take it back dude - and have a look at the recommended PSU guide and get something which is known to be a proven performer... You've already been recommended the OCZ Gamextreme, but the FSP FX models and the corsair 620 are also great choices.
  13. Some simple things first: Have you tried switching to a different DVI port on your card? Are you sure the monitor is good/working? Do you have any standard PC3200 memory that you can boot with? You may need to boot with some noddy memory first, before you can boot with your faster stuff. Then you can enter the timings for your PC4800, reboot, switch sticks, and you should be away. If none of the above helps, or doesn't make sense, do the full 24hr CMOS clear - linkage in sig
  14. Yeah, what do you use this box for? How fast is your internet connection downstream/upstream? You seem to have that setting set far, far too high for any normal usage... I'd be thinking of even lower than @reelfiles suggested - remember that the default to increase it to is only 50 - so by setting it as high as you are you might be flooding your router/connection..
  15. Also, are you SuperPI/OCCT/prime stable? You should be, otherwise issues like these can crop up. A bad stick can also cause problems like this. It may pass memtest, but get errors under the OS. You could also just try with one stick (furthest orange slot) and see if you still get the problems...although this sort of depends on how long it takes for the issues to crop up?
  16. When certain MS updates are installed, it will overwrite the TCPIP.SYS file. If you have installed any updates, you may need to reapply the 4226 patch...?
  17. What do you mean "before windows was even loaded"? Do you mean as it was loading - or while you were in the BIOS or some such? Do as mentioned. You are most likely getting a BSOD which flashes past too fast to be seen. Turn off the Auto Restart and then check the message. Are you MemTest stable? Run all tests again overnight to make sure. Are you prime stable? Again, overnight to be sure.
  18. Yep ;o) One stick - furthest orange only. 2 sticks, both orange slots (sometimes yellow).
  19. Check the linkage in my sig - but from that site, for around R$500 I'd recommend the Antec 550W TruePower Trio (TP3-550) @ R$549 Thing is: the PSU is really one part of your machine that you shouldn't skimp on. I'd still strongly recommend that you get the OCZ 600W GameXStream - (OCZGXS600) @ R$629. It is used by many members here and will future-proof you for a while also...
  20. You just reused the AS that was already on it? I hope you don't mean that dried up residue that remains when you remove the block? If so dude, Um that is a baaad idea... You need to clean the existing gunk off, reapply new paste, reseat your HS/block and then allow it to cure...
  21. You should be able to run these possibly as low as 2.6V. I'd be giving that a try before i went as high as you are. Then up it slightly if you find you're getting errors in MemTest.. Just remember that it's often the secondary timings which can be important. These boards are touchy with memory, none more so than the expert.
  22. Just to back Logan up - i'd be starting with that PSU, not leaving it to last. Just because it ran fine for months, doesn't mean it wasn't struggling even back then. If you aren't stable now - even at stock speeds - then i'd struggle to find a better place to start...
  23. If you aren't MemTest stable, then there is not point even trying to boot to the OS. All you will end up doing is corrupting your install and making things much more complicated for yourself... The link you are after for your Prime Stable settings is over here @ mushkin support forums. Your board is not exactly the same as the Lanparty Ultra-D / SLI-DR - but you should be able to work out what goes where and get close enough... Back your PC off to stock (200/200). Enter the timings shown for DDR400. MemTest first with one stick, furthest orange from CPU. 10+ passes of tests 5&8. Then 20+ of all. Then try the other stick. If you pass, put both sticks in the orange slots and test together (10+ 5&8, 20+ all). If you are stable, boot to the OS and run a few of Praz's Stability tests, namely Prime95, OCCT and 3dMark. If that is the case, then i'd be pretty happy that your Memory is good, and your CPU is fine...
  24. These boards do not like 4 sticks at the best of times. Run MemTest86+ over each stick individually and then try both of the 2 stick, dual channel pairs. If stable, you can try adding all 4 sticks... Test as above with @tasr.
  25. OK, well you might want to try adding a little more voltage to both your CPU and the memory... if that doesn't give you any better results - then i think you're going to have to get yourself over to the Official OCZ Support Forum on bleedinedgesupport and see if they can't help you out. For starters, try the settings shown here. They are almost the same as the ones i posted earlier - but they are straight from an OCZ rep. It is very, very unlikely that you have 2 bad sticks there - and almost certainly not all 4. If neither of these sets of settings work (with just one stick - furthest orange slot) it's more likely to be either your CPU (memory controller), PSU or the board itself that has a problem.
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