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ganders75

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Everything posted by ganders75

  1. Have you tried with another card - even a really old one just to see if it is directly related to the card?
  2. It is still accessing the CMOS part of it though - which is updated everytime you boot. This is still a write, no? If your CPU wasn't stable due to undervolting, it's hard to say exactly what this might do... I'm assuming it is basically the same situation as when you're overclocking - you can mess it up so badly that you need a new chip to get back to square one... P.S. You didn't answer the PSU question? Was it reputable (ie. one off the list) - or just a random 500W model?
  3. What model of PSU was the 500W. You'll really have to try one off the recommended list to be certain... RE: BIOS, this is kind of what i was saying... When you boot the system with it undervolted like that, it may have written to the BIOS in such a manner that it has totally messed up and you need a replacement BIOS chip. I don't know if this is your problem - but it sure isn't sounding good...
  4. Well, if you're undervolting the CPU by as much as you were i wouldn't be at all suprised by the cold boot problems that you were experiencing... In fact, i'm somewhat amazed that it booted at all to be fair... I seriously doubt that you'll have done it any serious/permanent damage. That said, I suppose it is possible that by undervolting you have made it totally mess up the BIOS - in which case you might need a new chip sent out?
  5. Yeah, i strongly suspect that your PSU has gone bad enough that it will no longer boot the board - It is more than likely the cause of your cold boot problems also... If you know someone that has a better PSU, you could try it out and see if it fixes your problem? Or maybe take your rig into a local retailer and see if they'll let you give a Recommended PSU a shot before you buy? At least then you'd know?
  6. Yeah, you want to be pushing the air over the fins of your heatsink - altho i'm not sure of the design of the stock one on a 3000+
  7. I'd definately be looking at getting PC4000 (DDR500) memory, rather than the standard 3200 (DDR400)... Check my sig for details on setting up Mushkin XP4000 memory at different speeds. Very nice memory and some very nice O/C's out there using it...
  8. SeaSonic are being really arsey with people about these PSU problems - so much so that i have to say i would never buy a power supply from them... You might be better off selling that PSU on eBay and getting either a new OCZ GameXtreme 600/700 or an FSP FX 600/700. Have a look at the Recommended PSU Guide here.
  9. Have you tried taking them back out of the case an building on an insulated surface, with only minimal components installed? ie. One HDD (if you have one not part of a raid array?), Memory in furthest orange slot... etc What happens then? No beeps at all - how many diagnostic lights, etc? You should follow the CMOS clear shown in my sig. If you skipped a step then it is invalid and you'll need to start over again...
  10. Yeah, nice way to p1ss off one of the most useful guys on here dude...? What are you thinking? Anyways, try a CMOS clear as suggested and see if that helps with your problem. Use SeaTools to check your drive - drive problems can cause alot of strange problems like lockups and corrupted files. Have you run MemTest from the BIOS to make sure that your settings are 100% stable, then SuperPi 32M and then Prime95 overnight...
  11. You should not have to reinstall windows - just uninstall the processor from Device Manager and then reboot (not sure, can't remember if you have to be in safe mode - I switch between the x2 4400+ in my sig and an Opty 144 all the time and there's definately no problems the other way around). I'm with CPDMF though, any troubles and i usually just blow away the windows install and redo. Can also help to have ghost images with fresh installs of all your favourite stuff...
  12. Yep, your PSU is borderline for these boards. Do you have another one that you can swap in, preferably one from the Recommended List?
  13. Don't know if it's related - and you don't have the Expert board - but have you considered the .22 capacitor mod discussed here. In fact, might be worth having a read through the entire thread as there is loads of good info on voltage overshooting and switch bounce...
  14. A PSU of the recommended list will usually clear these kind of problems up. Also, make sure you aren't overloading one of the rails on your PSU?
  15. You'll have to run MemTest86+ from your BIOS to ensure your memory is stable. MemTest isn't just for bad memory, it also tests the settings that you have input.. You should be able to run 15-20 passes of tests 5&8, and then all tests overnight... One other piece of possibly bad news, your memory isn't recommended with these boards, many people do get it running eventually, but loads of people have had trouble... Edit::Include PSU and all parts in your sig. - otherwise people can't help you properly
  16. Also, use the drive testing software from you HardDrive manufacturer to check each of the disks... A crashed hard drive can cause odd behaviour like this.
  17. "IRQ NOT LESS OR EQUAL" is a fairly common error caused by incorrect RAM timings. Very, very rarely would an IRQ mismatch cause this issue, although it has been known with some of the x-Fi cards, etc. You'll need to clear your CMOS to get back to bootable - you've probably set your memory into a config that it cant run... Follow the procedures here: ExRoadie's guide
  18. 57C idle is waaaay hot! Any chance you can order an Evercool and replace the chipset fan? Some people are reporting that it gives a massive improvement in temps... You can get them from Shiny Hardware here in the UK but they are going for like £8.50! I bought a couple a while back - but i haven't actually fitted them yet as it involves pulling the whole MB out of the case, etc and I'm quite lazy...
  19. I'll 2nd Praz - if you are getting MemTest errors DO NOT boot into Windows. You will just end up corrupting your OS and having to do a reinstall from scratch... Check stock speed settings for your memory/processor and then MemTest until you are sure you have them stable...
  20. Think these have Infineon BE-5 chips... but i guess that isn't really relevant; Just did a quick search - have you seen this stuff http://www.valueram.com/datasheets/KHX3200K2_2G.pdf and is it sufficient to get you going?
  21. Don't work as in drives not showing up, or errors all over the place? Maybe the cables have developed a problem, any others you can try? No connections loose?
  22. Yeah, what they said... ;o) That power supply is definately suspect. You'll be able to shift it via eBay no problems (to a non-DFI'er as for some reason those S12's wont play nice with DFI boards) - and sort yourself out either the FSP FX600/700 or the OCZ GameXtreme 600/700. All 4 of these power supplies are awesome...
  23. Those seasonics are apparently actually pretty good power supplies - but they don't work well with DFI boards... Alot of threads on here about it... You might be better off getting an FSP FX600/700 or a GameXtreme 600/700 (basically much of a much-ness between them) and selling that seasonic on eBay...
  24. I seem to recall reading somewhere that all DFI boards over-volt slightly on the vDimm... Pretty sure that's normal - but i'll check mine for you when i get back home...
  25. Ignore the voltages reported by software monitoring... Neither of these will be corerct - you just can't trust them. The only way to really be sure is to use a DMM to test the actual voltages..
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