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Death909

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Everything posted by Death909

  1. I had more or less the same problem, good cooling (two 120mm fans, one blowing and one sucking air across the VX, and a 120mm CPU fan hanging over the VX) and yet my VX sucks.. Terribly. I could get the VX running at 244-248 IF I run it with only one stick. With two and a 160:200 divider, I'm lucky not to get BSODs with the ram above 230mhz. The DFI NForce 4 motherboards have weak Vmem voltage controllers, they tend to get weaker.. I used to be able to get two VX sticks to run at 250mhz (VX 3200) with the memory jumper thing at 5v. Currently, the difference between 3.2v without the 5v line thing, and 3.5v with the 5v thing is negligable. There was some guy on xtremesystems who had built some sort of 'booster' he designed to run along side the mobo voltage regulator. The regulator would clamp the Vmem, so if the voltage controller didn't put out what it was meant to, the regulator would bring it back to normal. I haven't checked up on his progress recently though.
  2. The CPU temp is accurate to within 3 degrees (up or down, so 45c on software could be 42c to 48c in reality) ... This is accurate enough for most purposes, but not accurate enough for CPU to CPU comparisons (checking improvements from better cooling will be accurate to a fraction to a degree even if Since the CPU temp probe is inside the CPU, testing in different motherboards is quite pointless.
  3. If you have to jump from 1.4v to 1.65v for just an extra 100mhz, I wouldn't consider it worth it. 2.4ghtz is fine, you won't see a huge difference between that and 2.5ghtz. I can barely tell the difference between 2.45ghtz and 2.85ghtz on my 146 while playing any games. For me, it takes 1.45v (the minimum I use) for 2.8ghtz, but for an extra .075v I can get 2.9ghtz. My RAM happens to be unstable around this point, but after 2.9ghtz it would take even more voltage just to hit 3ghtz. Same with my 3200+, 1.45v was fine for 2.6ghtz, 1.525v was fine for 2.7ghtz, but even with 1.7v, 2.78ghtz was not stable (temps were 40c to 43c at load). There was an excellent guide somewhere on over-volting. One of the things it suggested was that you write down how far you go with 1.4v, then boost it to 1.425v, and so forth till you've gone as far as you feel safe. If you make a graph out of that, you will see that extra voltage gives good gains till a point, and at that point diminishing returns kick in.
  4. CPU spectrum spread, atleast on older Intel boards, would actively alter the CPU frequency to spread the EMI generated over a wider range of frequencies (so that there was less continuous EMI at specific frequencies, which would lower the interferance on devices that are only sensetive to certain frequencies). Its definitely something that should be disabled, an aluminum case and an aluminum heatsink (that is grounded to the case) will stop just about all EMI emanating from the CPU (protecting other PC components from EMI) and the case (less EMI for external devices).
  5. I have the exact same problem. My 146 is stable at 2.9ghtz, but using the 160/200 divider results in my VX being unstable at or above 240mhz (it can do 245mhz in memtest). I haven't been able to test this myself, but I think that by using a memory capable of higher HTT (TCCD) and dividers closer to 200/200 you could get closer to 3ghtz. My VX is quirky (not in a good way, one stick doesn't get any errors at 246mhz but it won't boot into memtest at 247mhz) and the Vdimm controller is screwed, so I have to run 3.5v though my VX just to get it stable at 245mhz. Using the 160/200 divider, it is stable at 238mhz, but anything above that gives random BSODS.
  6. Increasing the PCI-E frequency increases the bandwidth of the PCI-E lanes. If your card only has 1x or 2x allocated to it (certain SLI configs) then it might help. It also might help if you have top of the line video cards in 8x/8x SLI config. Other than that, it shouldn't do much at all. (Milkshake, I expect you might have changed other settings and OC'ed your system at the same time as raising PCI-E frequency. I know when I get into the BIOS that its very tempting to change numerous variables and you don't always remember what you changed afterwards).
  7. Next time I'm buying I'm going to ask for a specific week aswell. Any particular week I should look for? 0540 maybe?
  8. Well, its better than my 146 then. I've just had to boost the voltage to 1.475v to get stability at 2.86ghtz. Its better than my original estimate though, since it ran 2.7ghtz with 1.45v I was expecting a 6.66% better OC than my 3200+ (since it needed 1.55v for stability at 2.7ghtz). Once more I get a decent CPU, once more I miss out on one of those miracle ones that can OC like mine at stock voltage. I'm seriously considering buying another just to try and get 3ghtz at 1.4v. Guess I should sell the 3200+ first.. Edit: I was thinking, if dividers such as 140/200 make the CPU unstable, wouldn't higher dividers like 160/200 keep the CPU stable until higher clockspeeds are reached? As in going from 160/200 to 180/200 might get stability at higher clockspeeds? This is a wild assumption, but if anyone has TCCD and wants to test this...
  9. I do not know how the heatsink looks or works on your video card, so it may or may not be responsible for your high chipset temps, but you can move your videocard to the second PCI-E slot, it will work and the difference in performance is incredibly minor, something like 200-400 03marks or a fraction of a frame in games. Probably the best thing you can do to lower chipset temps is to replace the thermal pad with AS5 or Ceramique. My chipset used to get 45c-48c under load, but after cleaning the heatsink / chipset with Articlean and adding some Ceramique, it now idles at 30c (or 3c below my CPU, instead of 5c-8c above it during load and 10c-12c at idle). Running prime results in just 1c extra on the chipset (unlike 12c extra on the CPU).
  10. Roger_D25, I hope that thats a mis-type, 1.932 is a hell of a lot, and 1.9v has been known to kill AMD64s instantly (bug with the 7/02 BIOS ran 1.9v on some settings). bucdenny 63c is a bit much, temps like that would probably be close enough to trip the thermal protection and turn off the CPU. Better temps would definitely help, my 146 was not stable at 2.7ghtz with just 52c (left the fan on my Big Typhoon unplugged..) With 44c, and the fan turned on, its stable at 2.8ghtz (forcing my VX to play nice, 2.8ghtz seems stable).
  11. The 150, if it is a good stepping, will probably do much better than 144s and 146s when used with low speed, tight timing ram. Opterons seem to have alot of trouble with low dividers (like 140/200 or less). This doesn't seem to be a problem exclusive to Opterons though, its just that the most popular ones have 9x or 10x max multipliers and most if not all can hit somewhere near 3ghtz. Currently, I wish I had paid a little extra to get a 148.
  12. TIM = Thermal Interface Material. Its a broader way of saying thermal paste (as it encompasses any material rather than just pastes).
  13. Half-multipliers are screwed. Its something about AMDs implementation of them (something about half-multies using dividers). Good job on finding this out for yourself, I have seen numerous others get 270FSB at 2-2-2 with VX before someone kindly pointed out that their RAM was running at 245mhz or so.
  14. Ok, now I'm really, really dissapointed in my VX. Two sticks, back from RMA, and both of them cannot handle voltage. Neither will do a full pass of memtest with any more than 3.4v. My 146 runs 100% stable at 2.7ghtz, but even just moving up to 2.8ghtz results in the VX running too fast, since it can't handle anymore voltage I have to change the ratio so that the VX runs slower, which is a huge problem because my 146 seems to have some problems with anything below the 166mhz/fsb ratio. Unfortuneatly, my 'good' pair of VX cannot do 250mhz, let alone agree with each other (one requires 3.4v for stability, the other wants 3.5v, and both are unstable if given the other voltage). To be honest, I certainly wasn't expecting so many problems with OCing a 146. The ability to get high clockspeeds with relative ease is no good if dividers and memory speed prevent you from going above 2.7ghtz. (Plus, I seem to have currupted a large amount of drivers trying to get stability at 2.9ghtz). Edit: Audio and video plays WAY too fast, with audio quality being terrible. Edit2: Oddly, after being unable to fix the audio distortion (despite trying just about everything), it seems to have fixed itself.
  15. Telling someone to go buy a dell because they are asking questions is being a bit harsh, even if they cannot be bothered to look/search through this thread (even I gave up on reading all of it after the 26th page). I can understand the reactions against sumang, WAY too many people are asking questions that cannot be answered 100%, but its still not very nice to be so harsh on him/her. I guess the point that should be made at the very begining of every OCing guide or tutorial should be that every single peice of hardware is different, and OCing is about experimentation rather than answers. (BTW, what is 'english pleb' atitude? pleb is an abreviation for?)
  16. So.. after an incredibly long time waiting, namely one month, three weeks and a day, I have finally got my Opteron. Its a CAB2E, 0546 FPAW. I'm currently running the OCCT stability test at 2.7ghtz with 1.45v. (I know OCCT isn't foolproof, but I only run Prime overnight). This is .1v better than my 3200+, so I'm already happy (not to mention the L2). I'm going to try and hit 3ghtz, but my estimate is 2.9ghtz with 1.55v (which is my max comfortable overvolt). Now I'm both dissappointed and impressed with the TT Big Typhoon, seeing as it was capable of handling the Opteron without the fan running (didn't plug it in, damn excitement getting in the way). Plugging the fan in only gave 7c better temps.
  17. To my knowledge, most people (including me) just overclock. When you hit instability you raise the voltage and see how far you go, till it doesn't go any higher or you don't want to raise the voltage. As for burn-in, I don't know about to many people that do that, and so far mine has not increased in max clockspeed at 1.55v since I first overclocked it. AMD / Intel mostlikely burn-in the CPUs before they leave the factory, its mostly certain RAM (BH-5, UTT, CH-5) that can be burnt-in with noticable difference, and that is mostly because the RAM is not burnt-in at the factory due to it being mass-produced and normally untested.
  18. Aussie, but at this point I'm wishing I was a Kiwi.
  19. All you lucky people, getting Opterons despite the shortage. I've been waiting since the 1st of November, and it was supposed to arrive on the 15th of November. Its suposed to come 'any day now'.
  20. Till someone with a better suggestion posts, have you tried disconnecting the floppy drive?
  21. You don't even need to get to 0c, some CPUs with the coldbug still work fine at -30c, others won't boot under -10c.
  22. Its not a DFI only issue. The coldboot issue happens with every single AMD motherboard, it is a product of the weak signal strengths. The only reason you see the coldboot issue on DFI NF4 mobos is because DFI mobos are the only ones that can run more than 3.2v natively. Mods that increase the vdimm to 3.3v+ are consistent, you do not need to change the settings in the BIOS, and the settings don't need to be applied every time you start up your PC. DFI is NOT obliged to help you, let alone replace your board. They will give you support though, despite the fact that overvolting/overclocking would normally void the motherboard warranty, DFI will give you help and try and fix this issue for you, despite the fact that it is not their problem (its a problem caused by your settings, not by their motherboard).
  23. The best aircooling beats the most expensive watercooling. Purely because the most expensive watercooling is made by koolos, and instead of using copper everything is made out of aluminium and gold plated (ofcourse, they don't mention that its only aluminium often). Probably the biggest advantage of watercooling, besides temps, is that instead of 1 heatsink + tiny/noisy fan per significant heatsource (excluding PSU) you can end up with 2-3 quiet/large fans per the entire system (excluding PSU).
  24. Shipping is terrible. I've been waiting for my 146 to arrive since the first of November, and now it is the 4th of december. I've been told that its on its way, but the wait is killing me.
  25. 704BTA is based on the 706 BIOS, the 706 BIOS is based on the 704 BIOS, the only difference being some minor bugfixes.
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