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About jm76

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  1. Just keep saying "speak to a representative" during the automated system and you'll get a rep after a few minutes. The UPS guys are lazy here...They won't try delivering to my apt. door and instead just bring them to the apt. office. Where as the fedex guys deliver to the door like they are supposed to. Jim
  2. If you backed up the directory in your My Doc's folder then that is all you should have to back up...Maybe v1.0 and v1.08 aren't compatible but that's ridiculous if that is so. I know v1.08 and v.1.1 are compatible both ways. I'd check titanquest.net to see if there is a work around posted on there. Jim
  3. To back up your character just save it periodically in a separate folder...You can find your character files in "My DocumentsMy GamesTitan QuestSave DataMainwhat ever your character name is" -- copy the whole folder somewhere and there's your backup. Currently I'm building a Ranger (Hunting/Nature) and the poor little wolf is absolutely worthless. Jim
  4. My temps are ca. 48 at idle and 2D apps and 60's in 3D apps...Also the card draws ~5A during 2D but when I run a 3D app the current draw is rather erratic bouncing from ~14A all the way to 27.3A according to RivaTuner. Jim
  5. I upgraded to a HIS X1900XT this past month and the whole time since I've had countless issues and I was hoping someone could help me fix them... 1. Ever since I installed this card I've had some serious system instablities and I'm pretty certain it is related to my GPU. It doesn't matter if the card is run at stock clocks, down clocked, or overclocked and my problems occur both in 3D and 2D applications. 2. The most common problem is that the screen will go blank during a game yet you can still hear sound and do actions (like firing a gun). When this happens I have to reboot the system. 3. The screen will freeze at times and then come back and everything will work fine. (I've also had periods where my character would freeze but the game would go on as normal, but I don't know if this related.) 4. I've gotten vertical green bars the screen that won't go away until I reboot. 5. I've had the screen totally corrupted such that nothing can be read or even distinguished. 6. I know I've seen other errors but these are the most common ones. I've tried the omega drivers as well of the ATI catalyst 6.5,6.6, and 6.7 drivers too no avail. (Each time the drivers are uninstalled and cleaned with Driver Cleaner Pro.) I've tried 2 different monitors with different DVI cables with the same result and I have tried the system without any overclocking to my CPU. Two different PSU's have also been tried. I've used both the CCC and ATItool with the same results as well. Last but not least I have also tried different RAM incase the memory was causing problems. The only thing that I haven't tried yet is to reinstall Windows which I'm hoping to avoid since re-activitating all of my business software can be a real pain. Anyone have any ideas of what else I should try? Thanks, Jim
  6. Well, without a lot of time and tedious testing (which isn't worth it) I can't really say whether or not the loot tables have been changed since it could be a streak where I just got lucky... In a short time (i.e. ~1hr) I was able to fill my inventory with blues and greens while running the 1.11. I uninstalled the game and reinstalled and patched up to 1.08 to try out the Hamachi server (ran into some rather heavy lag for some reason). After several hours of play with 1.08 tonight I just barely filled my inventory with blues and greens...Of course without others seeing this it doesn't mean anything -- but then again I can always hope that the loot tables were tweaked (usually the loot tables get tweaked very early during a release of RPG type games). BTW, if you installed 1.11 you can still use your characters if you uninstall the game and only patch to 1.08. Jim Jim
  7. Has anyone noticed a change in the drop tables? I just installed it and all of a sudden I'm seeing blues and greens:) (I've got a pack full at level 13). Jim
  8. If your solution is cold enough and the flow is high enough then the thermal compound will actually become a barrier for heat transfer... Think about the thermal compound that you might want to use in this setup -- it was to be completely nonconducitve and insoluble in your solution. If it is even slightly conductive and gets washed onto something there goes your system. If it is even slightly soluble then you have no idea where or when it will percipitate out of the solution which could gum up lines, pump, or any moving parts. The thermal compounds that we use now a days are rather ineffecient when you think about it -- a direct connection between the solution and chip would be ideal as long as you guarantee that there is suffecient flow across the chip to guarentee that no hot spots in the solution form. This is where circulation becomes important because it is necessary to have a high enough flow to always keep a constant supply of cold solution running across the chip. BTW, I can think of one reason that you might be tempted to use some sort of heat sink on a chip and that would be to avoid/dampen temperature spikes, but for this to occur it would imply that the solution used in the bath was not a good thermal conductor. Jim Jim
  9. Couple of things to consider if you are tempted to do this... For a large bath you need to circulate and agitate the fluid constantly to avoid temperature differentials (i.e. hot spots around certain components). Think of a circulator bath in labs they have a pump that draws the solution to the chiller and for large baths some sort of mixer to keep the solution well stirred. How are you planning to pump down your two pane plexiglass wall? You will need a roughing pump for this and considering that you probably won't have a very good seal you will be running this roughing pump 24/7. Instead of creating a vacuum you would be better off creating a positive flow of dry air between the walls but this would be expensive as well. I don't see the need for any heatsinks on anything b/c the sink and the thermal compound will become a barrier to the transferr of heat. For cooling the solution you are probably better off using a chiller like the ones found in circulator baths...The idea of using peltiers adds to the coolness factor of the idea but for practicality you would want some sort of freon based chiller. ---- There are several ways that you can keep condensation off the outside walls and I've always preferred to use positive flow of dry air (bleed off of a LN2 tank works nicely). I used this method to keep condensation from forming on the AFM due to the temperature stage that I designed and built in grad school. It's not the most effecient way but if you ever need to access something there is less chance of a catastrophe as there is if vacuum is used. Also if you have never worked with trying to keep a vacuum, suffice it to say that a vacuum is a major pain in the *** to maintain even if you are working with a setup specifically designed to hold a vacuum. Jim
  10. Unless they have changed something in the past couple of months in the design of the Artic Freezer Pro you can orient any of the 4 cardinal directions you want (i.e. towards the front, back, down, or up). Go back and look at it again and try -- I know I had it mounted with the fan blowing toward the back of my case. You don't need any different bracket you just assemble the clip setup at 90deg of the original setting. I ended up going with a BigTyphoon because of the simple fact that I didn't like the lack of RAM cooling with the Freezer Pro. Jim
  11. I've always liked using HiJackThis for these problems... Give it a try in safemode if you haven't gotten rid of the problem yet and then search online for a parser for the log file and you will be able to clean up a lot of crap on your system. Jim
  12. Sorry Michaelzhao you are wrong here... There are Toledo core 3700+'s running around and in fact I have one in my system that I'm on right now... Check out this thread: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55228 In the second post I have screen shots showing the IHS, the naked chip, and a screenshot of A64 TCaseMax - v1.19 showing that this is a Toledo Core. Jim
  13. Another nice thing about SVC is that they ship priority mail which delivers 6 days a week instead of just 5 days a week...I recieved my OCZ 700W GX on Monday and I ordered on Friday -- Same sort of turn around as you get with overnight deliver if you ordered from newegg on a friday but a heck of a lot cheaper. Jim
  14. I'd try to get a San Diego personally since it started out as a single core in the first place whereas the Toledo started out as a dual core chip that has one core that is bad... I've got one of the Toledo core 3700+ and it was super easy to get it up to 2805 MHz (i.e. 255) but I haven't been able to take it one notch further. If you search you'll see that these chips don't seem to clock as well as the San Diegos. Jim
  15. Thanks for the patience and recommendations everyone. I've just placed an order for OCZ GameXstream 700W from SVC (their last one -- seems to be a hot commodity and yes the order was placed through the DFI yahoo store link). Since I don't know if it was gpu, gpu/psu, or psu problems I'm RMAing the GPU as well and going with a HIS X1900XT IceQ3 from NewEgg. I'm going to hold off on the case decision until these items come in and I see if I can hide the extra cabling or not. If I do have to look into a new case what is everyone's opinion of the new Thermaltake Armor with 25cm side panel fan? Either the VA8003BWS ( http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/product/Chas...r/va8003bws.asp ) or the VA8003SWA ( http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/product/Chas...r/va8003swa.asp ). I like the look of these better than the CM Stacker but they still have similar cooling designs. TIA, Jim
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