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Everything posted by dmo580

  1. Do a good 10 min clearing of CMOS. If not, try unplugging everything not needed as AnthraX said. I once had a computer that refused to turn on because of a dead hard drive. Weird huh. Bought a new case, PSU, etc only to find the HD defective. Finally, make sure that ALL 4 power connectors are into the motherboard!
  2. cpuz, how come your guide tells us to stick UTT into yellow slots, but I'm getting advised by everyone to use the orange slots I'm going to be using OCZ VX4000.
  3. I ran into your problem last night (ironically), but it was on my old system. Athlon 1400 w/ KT7A-RAID, and I booted up with the HD in the RAID controller (cuz I use my main controller for CD drives, etc), swapped to the regular IDE channel and things worked... Weird.
  4. Well.. only if you don't want to wait. I've tried 75% alcohol before. Heard of people using vodka (what a waste). Umm Bounty is quite lint free =P
  5. Ok, so I've been using traditional floppy drives for some time, but I wanted to spend my $10 on something better -- a USB 2.0 floppy drive that's also an 8-in-1 card reader. The cards obviously force it to be USB2.0 spec. So I know that I plug it into the extra USB 2.0 headers (oh yea which one should I plug it into?). When I startup will it be detected? Will it run just like a regular floppy drive that I use an FDD cable with? Thanks!
  6. I suggest you back everything up ASAP. If you get hit with a virus, scanning it and fixing it or fixing windows is like duct taping it so it holds. Sooner or later you gotta reformat. It's better to clean up Windows w/ a format once in a while anyways.
  7. Awesome. =)))) Thanks! Looks like the only "hard" thing for my installation is to get an Iceberq 4 on to the north bridge which requires a little dremel work I heard.
  8. Use an Iceberq4. Will cool better, and you need to dremel a small area though. It's easy. I'll be doing it soon.
  9. Is it hard to take off the current DFI HS retention bracket and to replace it with the Thermalright one for the XP-120? I don't want to break anything as I always bump into caps when installing HSFs =(. Damn, and I gotta part with the sexy yellow RM that DFI gave us and use a black one? *sniff*
  10. For $20 you should've just gotten the 8-in-1 Mitsumi card reader which also has floppy. That's what I'm doing. Makes reading those CF and MS Pro sticks much easier
  11. Yes. There will be a new version. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=70116 This will be a very similar layout to the Crossfire board, and this will allow double spacing. I think it gets rid of the whole 5v/3.3v jumper thing and just feeds memory directly from the 5v rail. I feel like selling my Ultra-D even though its still on the way.... =(
  12. What would you guys run voltage at when you first startup your 3700+ Sandy? Like runnign at stock speeds I mean... 1.4? 1.5? what about the % Control
  13. Will do. Gonna do this on Monday/Tuesday. And also, thank you Sharp!
  14. Let's not forget 7800s use less power than 6800Us... so it shouldn't be THAT bad. The main issue is not wattage, but the rails. Do some voltmeter tests to make sure your rails aren't being strained out. Do some manual calculations. If your CPU and graphics are being split on a dual rail PSU, check to see that each rail has a high enough amperage rating...
  15. Ok, so I plug 1 stick into the orange slot, memtest, and do the next stick, and then do both. Then I install OS. Overclock and burn in for a good 24 hours. Sounds good? Well I know that a burnin is like 2-2-2-5 @ 250 @ 3.3V... What about the initial memtest with 1 stick at a time? What's a good setting (VX4000)?
  16. CEIL = ceiling.. meaning round up basically. (ceil 1.55) = 2... (floor 1.55) = 1. These are for rev E CPUs that can go BEYOND DDR 400. I actually cannot confirm anything as I don't even have my parts (see sig below).... I just go the info off from Anandtech article which was testing the greater than 1:1 dividers. You are mentioning the lower dividers like 9/10, etc, which I'm not covering here.... Refer to: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=41595 for the sub 1:1 dividers. And of course this is for stock speeds. If you overclock, refer to the general formula...
  17. This might be a repost, but iono. I was bored at work and I wanted to know how the mem dividers will be useful for my burnin of RAM for my 3700+, and so I decided to use Excel. Might as well help everyone right? For those of you who don't know, the divider isn't as simple as FSB * divider as I remembered in the Intel 845 days. The exact formula is: DRAM Clock = CPU Clock / (ceil(CPU Clock Multiplier/Memory Divider))
  18. Geil One TCCDs. They're like UBER expensive, and are just coming out. I've seen screens of DDR660 on XS. They're rated 600 though =)
  19. If you are EVER concerned about your voltages being too low/high based on software, CONFIRM those fears by using a multimeter. My multimeter showed 11.77 (within 2%) while MBM read 11.65. Some people have seen even bigger discrepancies when using software to monitor voltage. Key: Software is almost always off (by a lot too), so please verify with multimeter.
  20. I just got myself a S12 600W. My DFI LP NF4 Ultra-D comes in a few days. I'll have info for you by next Monday.
  21. The Mushkins were what I referred to. They are rated 3200 (400).. so yea. But of course that doesn't mean they won't go higher =P
  22. I recommend buying them at Monarch ($189). Dealing with Tiger is like... bleh.
  23. You have several options. 1) Use the 3.3V rail and you can only draw up to 3.2V for your ram 2) switch the jumper so you're drawing from the 5V rail, which allows you go up your RAM 4V 3) Hack the 3.3V rail and so can draw up to 4V
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