Jump to content

dmo580

Members
  • Content Count

    137
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by dmo580


  1. dmo580, I just worked through this (SATARAID) last nite, works like a charm and probably will never go back to using F6 method. Suggest you use the "Brand New Method" with the WHQL (6.86) certified drivers. One problem I did have though is I used the new beta version of nLite, and things did not work out. Suggest you use the 1.0.1 version, I think it is more stable.

     

    I have #1 and #2, Raptor and 7200.x non-RAID

    #3 and #4 are my RAID0 array. Works fine for me.

     

    Thanks! I think I'm set. When I read the previous response telling me to use the LEGACY method, I was already burning the slipstream with SATARAID. Glad to know you did it that way... although I used the latest version of nLite. Are you saying it's unstable as in the program crashes or as in it produces bad Windows ISOs? I already burned mine, so should I worry about this being a possibly bad disc and needing to re-slipstream or should I be fine as long as my nLite didn't hiccup on me?

     

    I'm about to go pickup my 7200.10 drive from UPS and once I do I get to start ^^. I haven't been this worried since I built my system.


  2. No you have sata 2 drives so use them dude, the sil controller does not support sata 2, use the nvraid.

     

    If you use Nlite when you choose drivers then choose single driver navigate to the legacy folder and select either of the drivers, BOTH will be slipstreamed you need BOTH drivers.

     

    Do NOT use any of the other drivers only the ones in the legacy folder.......okay dude:)

     

     

    Gotcha tahnks.... I have an Ultra-D, so I ONLY have NVRaid. My question was which ports I need to plug my drives into because I heard certain ones operate together and when u use RAID-0, you should have the drives on certain ones and non-RAIDed drives on certain ports... Thanks a lot!


  3. I have the same Hdd as you but i dont have the 3rd raptor, my hdd are set up as raid0.

     

    Hmm its a bit confusing what you are asking okay here we go start from the start....

     

    Why use the original disc, slipstream sp2 its a lot easier than updating to sp2 after windows installs if that is what you do. Its not hard to slipstream, in fact its very easy if you use Nlite etc. The bonus being if you use that then you can slipstream the nvraid drivers as well.

     

    If you raid0 the 7200.10 then use a 3rd party proggy like partition magic 8.5 to set your partitions and format. It will recognise your raid array.

     

    If i were you i would.........

     

    1. Slipstream SP2 and nvraid driver using Nlite.

    2. Back up all my data.

    3. Pull my Raptor.

    4. Set up Raid0 stripe on 7200.10.

    5. Partition and format using PM8.5

    6. Install windows.

    7. Plug back in the Raptor and format it to use as spare storage or whatever......

     

    Along those lines anyway......

     

    Which driver well the one from dfi site is older, but is said to have worked, it didnt for me so i slipstreamed the newest 6.86 from nvidia site you can find the driver in the IDE/XP/legacy folder of that pack.

     

    Hope you figure out which road you wanna take dude.

     

    Later. ;)

     

    Gotcha but which do I slipstream? Looks like you used Legacy

     

    http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=51140&st=0

     

    Should I be using SATARAID or Legacy? Iwas about to start SATARAid slipstreamming.. dunno

     

    One other question.... Aren't the ports on the Ultra-D linked in pairs? So like 0 & 1 and then 2 & 3 are either RAID or NON-RAID? I'm not sure where to plug my 4 drives

     

    1) Raptor

    2) 7200.10

    3) 7200.10

    4) 7200.9

     

    I want to raid-0 drives #2 and #3


  4. I read the RAID guide but I dont have SP2 slipstreamed with my XP and I would like touse my original disc anyways, so I usually use Seagate Tools to partition a small XP drive like 16GB or so and then create the rest once I'm in Windows and SP2 is up and running.

     

    If I RAID-0 2x 7200.10s, how do I create a small partition? I guess I could use Windows installation, but would Seagate's tools be able to do the trick or would it not have RAID drivers to recognize the drives as 1 device?

     

    Finally...

     

    My setup is as follows:

     

    1) Raptor 74 GB ADFD

    2) 2x 7200.10s in RAID-0

     

    Raptor is my OS drive, but if I reformat it one day and reinstall Windows, what happens to the 2x7200.10s? Do I need to install drivers for Windows to recognize it?

     

    I was told to just setup Windows as normal, and then once I'm inside Windows, install the RAID drivers and the array will show up... Question is how will I install drivers? Are there drivers that are to be installed in Windows? The only drivers I'm familiar with is the ones on DFI's site/RAID floppy designed so you press F6 when you boot up..

     

    Can someone help me out? Config is in my sig, so these drives will all be plugged into the NF4 SATA ports...


  5. Yea I guess there's Best Buy or what not, but that's kinda far, and coming from Silicon Valley, I'm a Fry's kinda guy..

     

    My point is does DFI at least cover the cables and will give me new ones? I had a few Vantec IDE cables before that were lifetime warranty (roudned ones) and they sent me new ones after my old ones died. I thought that was pretty cool.


  6. I have 3 SATA drives right now after I got my Raptor, and I have it on my old DFI yellow cable. I have another drive on another DFI SATA cable too, and they both work fine...

     

    However, I had to buy another SATA cable from Fry's since I need 3. However, I realized I'm getting some errors once in a while from the Raptor (disk read error) when I boot up. If I isolate the drive, it has trouble booting up once in a while.

     

    I ran WD diagnostics as well as checked for SMART errors.. no problems. However, I swapped SATA cables and it worked fine.

     

    Conclusion? I believe my SATA cable is defective. Thus 1 of my two of my DFI SATA cables doesnt work because I swapped that "bad" SATA cable with another yellow one as well as with the one I bought with Fry's and my Raptor had no symptoms at all. The other SATA cable gives my SEagate 7200.9 (bootable) some troubles too..

     

    Is there some quick way I can get a new cable from DFI? I cannot really afford to drive 1 hr to Fry's in the next few weeks...


  7. I've done quite a bit of research and I know the best place to put my page file is on the MOST USED partition of the LEAST USED physical drive.

     

    If people still wonder what that means, go ahead and ask me.

     

    Basically, I have my page file on a 2nd drive (7200.9 drive instead of my Raptor) but I have heard the argument that you should keep a small page file (2 - 50mb) on your primary Windows drive, and the rest on your second drive.

     

    So for example, I was told to put 2-50mb on C:, but the other 1.5gb on my other drive. Good or bad?

     

    All I'm wondering is whether I should even bother with the 2-50mb or just go with the fat 1.5gb and thats all I need.


  8. Question: If I don't use a slipstreamed SP2 installation, and I have 2 x 250gb 7200.9s in RAID-0, I will have a problem creating partitions right? (without RAID, I usually have the partitions created with Seagates tools, and so I will have the first few partitions show up, and the rest won't because of the 137gb problem, but once I install SP2, everything is fine)

     

    Also, can I use Seagate's tools to create the partitions on the RAID array or do I need to do something special?


  9. So I got my 7200.9 drive to replace a 7200.8. Both are 250GB models, and I believe they are the same drive basically except for SATA II capabilities on the 7200.9

     

    I was wondering if I could just use RAID 1 and copy the data over from the old drive to the new drive.

     

    Good bad? The Seagate utility is giving me trouble, so that's why I'm asking this. I hate reinstalling XP.

     

    Also, how would I go about doing this in the Ultra-D?


  10. The ultra-d does not have sata2 at stock

     

    you have to cross two pins on the chipset to give you sata2 and sli

     

    old boards all you need is a tracer pen but newer boards are epoxied and you must first remove that then complete the circuit with a tracer pen

     

    heres a thread about it Ultra-D to SLi Mod

     

    For maximum stability have your drives on 3&4

     

    Ultra-D DOES have SATA2 at stock.

     

    I also do have nforce 4 software installed...


  11. I just popped in my 7200.9 Seagate drive and I know that is SATA 300 while my 7200.8 is SATA 150. However I ran a simple speed test in Windows, and its telling me both drives are running at SATA 150.

     

    Well why can't my 7200.9 run at SATA 300? Is it because it's limited by the 7200.8 that's also plugged in?

     

    Also, which 2 plugs should I use on my Ultra-D?

     

    Thanks!


  12. Not necessarily the cold boot issue. I had a problem where I plugged my Panaflo into my Mobo and it would die. The thing was a medium panaflo, so it uses FAR LESS power than the max on the board, but the board wouldn't take it. Odd huh? Stuck it in a fan controller and I could boot up.

     

    When the fan was in the mobo, I would power on for half a second. The fan would spin for half a second and stop...

     

    Cold boot should be a lttle different


  13. FYI, I always run Memtest even before I install the OS.

     

    New sticks of RAM..

     

    1) 1 stick in OJ. 8 hrs of stock settings, or just [email protected]$$ timings like 3-3-3

    2) Try the 2nd stick and give it 8 hrs of memtest. Oh yea, run tests 5 or 8 or both

    3) Try both sticks in OJ, [email protected]$$ timings again

     

    4) Now burn in. My VX sticks did 2-2-2-5 @ 250,... just do wahtever they're rated for. Both sticks in OJ and run it for 24 hrs.

     

    5) Still no errors? Go back to stock. VX is 2-3-2-8? Install Windows.

     

    If you want to wait before installing windows (my recommendation), play aorund until you know what voltage is good for what speed.


  14. You need to reinstall Windows. At this point it isn't even a matter of trying to get into Windows. You need to reinstall on optimized defaults and then finding a setting that you can work with 24/7 without destroying anything.

     

    I BSOD now and auto reboot after just flashing my BIOS last night.

     

    Boo huh? Stupid me.. 623-3 was working fine, but I just wanted the new vers...


  15. i've quite annoyed by the chipset fan on my lp nforce 4 ultra-d. will this fan fit? http://svc.com/mcx159-cu.html

     

    if it doesn't can you point me to one that might?

     

    I have a Vantec Iceberq4 and it requires some dremel work, but not much. You could probably get away filing it by hand. but its not bad at all. I find changing this fan doesnt help much. Some better cable management would be good for me...

     

    Plus the GF7800GT gets in the way and this is the only reason my chipset temps jumped like 5 degrees after putting my graphics card in even with a new fan.


  16. I believe their office is in San Jose.

     

    But, i don't think it's the board. Have you tried running at STOCK settings? Have you tried actively cooling your memory since those get really really hot?

     

    Also - what bios version are you using? 6/23-3 would be your best bet.

     

    623-3 is being used

     

    1) I am running stock. Read my Edit above.

     

    2) My case is open at this point. I have my Panaflo on my CPU runnign FULL speed. Even with the fan volted down, I IDLE at 24 - 27 degrees. I load at like low 30s. My HD has another 120mm fan blowing at it (currently running full speed). My 7200.8 idles around 30 and the Hitachi a degree or two lower. Load is under 35. My temps are definitely fine

     

    3) Video card has a VF700 running at full speed. I idle around low 40s and load up to 60s.

     

    4) I have an exhaust 120mm fan.

     

    Trust me. cooling is sufficient. If 2 drives are both bad, that's a surprise. I'm running 2 7K250s (1 in an old comp) and they have been fine. I HIGHLY doubt that this Hitachi in my current comp is bad because its the newer of the 2 7K250s I have. moreover, it's always been a 2ndary drive and SMART shows it as totally fine. It's current values = worst values, and so SMART gives its fitness rating a 100%.

     

    The Seagate drive on the other hand has been known to have problems (refer to SR). My drive has been fine, but it COULD be problematic. However, symptoms on this drive are teh SAME as on the Hitachi drive, making me wonder that this is a chipset/board problem.

     

    I'm just hoping if I can RMA, that I can do this in a painless process. I liked how I went home one weekend and I talked to OCZ and I drove to their place and swapped sticks of RAM within 10 minutes.


  17. I don't know but Windows started locking up on me a LOT on my 7200.8. Sometimes I would boot into Windows a lot and then it would log me in and if I click on start menu or anywhere on taskbar I get a waiting icon. Mouse dies and so does keyboard. System is halted. I got to the point where Ic ouldn't boot. Reformated and reinstalled Windows. I got lockups within 3 days. Reformatted AGAIN, and by the time I was done installing I got lockups again.

     

    I figured the 7200.8 was bad after reading SR's reliability index. Ok, so I set that to slave and I boot from my PATA Hitachi drive instead. I only boot because sometimes I need to access files because by now I'm using my laptop (system is effectively crippled, so I woudl rather wait for a new HD to come in before using it as a main system again). Ok, so I'm using my desktop like 10 min a day at most, and then shutting it down. Starting yesterday I got double lockups in Windows the same way.... I know something is up.

     

    SMART shows the Hitachi drive being flawless and even the Seagate drive is 50% fitness. None of the values have dropped below the warning level.

     

    Basically, if everything worked flawlessly on the Hitachi drive, Ic ould attribute this to a drive issue. However, if I'm getting weird problems on all my drives, then I'm guessing its the board.

     

    I know DFI's offices are somewhere in Fremont? I don't know, but it's somewhere in the Bay Area. I'm going home this weekend and I need to drive to SVC to pick up a few things anyways, so I was wondering if I could just get a board exchange?

     

    Edit: My system is not OCed and HAS NOT been for a good 3 months


  18. I take it that my memory is royally messed up?

     

    http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?...kb;en-us;326679

     

    By the way I have been running at extreme voltages or anything. I ran at 3.2 volts maximum for some period before dropping it down to 3.0. Well within warranty for VX4000.

     

    When I swap out 1 stick, the msg goes away, and I get some corrupted file error.

     

    Is my memory physically damaged? This has happened 3 times and this is the first time I decided to do some investigation.. Oh and Windows just keeps restarting. The splash screen doesn't even show up with 2 sticks in. With 1 stick in, the splash screen comes up and then it restarts a little afterwards.

×
×
  • Create New...