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About rebelangel

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  1. my rig had the same problem and also changed the psu the problem remained and I found out that the problem was the kingston ram. although i do say that changing the psu is a good idea anyway.
  2. the fans your using have magnetic bearings those are probably ******* up some component in either your mobo or psu. you can check with a dmm which one it is. measure a loose 4-pin molex if this remains the same the problem isn't in the psu. if you found out it's the psu you can either try to protect it against the magnatism or buy another psu which can handle the magnatism. if it's the mobo the magnatism can be interfering with either the voltage itself or the voltage sensor. check this with your dmm. if it's the sensor don't worry about it. if it's the actual voltage you should try to find where it's interfering. my guess it's the pwcmic area
  3. it's not possible this mod only works for burners that have a dual layer function but have been disabled in the bios to make it a lower price range product. the first nec dual layer is the one you have(i have the same one so i know). don't think you'll earn yourself al lot of money with this cause last week I bougth my father a dual layer burner for 35 euro.
  4. i mean that the chipset isn't at the top of the mobo. you're probably talking about the pwcmic area or the ram now i'm really confused where the hole is and where we're talking about.
  5. don't know but the nec in your sig is a dual layer burner already.
  6. usually the top is an exhaust. but i guess it's up to how many cfm in and out you have. in my experience having more cfm out of the case means it will drow in air out of holes meaning more airflow but it has one drawback. through these holes more dust will get in your comp. there is no way to avoid dust but this will enlarge the problem. i don't think setting it as intake will cooldown the chipset much it's probably is to far away and the airflow will disperse before it will get there ps. i didn't know the wave master had an upside down version
  7. did you plug in all the power connectors. (this once happened to me when i didn't plug in the p4 connector) use the switch on the mobo. if it still doesn't work rebuild you pc outside the case and try again if it works now you're shorting out the mobo.
  8. casefans 1x papst 120mm top blow hole (exhaust) 1x papst 120mm rear (exhaust) 1x papst 120mm front (intake and hard drives) 1x papst 120mm blowing at vid card and chipset 1x revoltec blue led 80mm side (intake) heatsink fans 2x yate loon 120mm on thermaltake sonic tower cpu 1x zalman 80mm on vf900 vidcard 1x thermaltake 40mm on extreme spirit 2 chipset 1x ocz 120mm in modstream psu 10 fans in total
  9. that's not what I meant voltage from a psu usually isn't a straight line it's usually spikes atx specs say these spikes have to be within 5% but this one might alternate from 9v to 15v hundreds of times a second a dmm shows the average of that which is 12v but the vid card might already be fried in those milliseconds. I'm not saying this thing will definitly fry your vid card but this psu probably wasn't meant for running vid cards on it. it's a perfect psu for the pump and the peltier. I'm just trying to tell you to be carefull with these things. maybe the inside of that psu is the same as a atx psu but it probably isn't. it could work fine for years or fry your computer in seconds. if I were you I wouldn't hook up the vid card to this but it's your choise to make. I guess what I'm trying to say is that most of us yourself included use an A-brand atx psu to power our machines. Hooking up a 300+ dollar vid card to a 30 dollar non-atx powersupply doesn't seem like a very good idea to me.
  10. i woudn't use that one for your vid card because it doesn't comply with atx standards. atx standards say that a psu voltage shouldn't vary more than 5% and that components should be able to handle that 5% variation. this one might vary 15% and might fry your vid card.
  11. on idle the temps usually are the same doesn't matter what kind of airflow you have. when on load the airflow does become a factor. I once tested the temps with all my casefans off and they didn't warm up much on idle. but when I went to load with 3dmark05 they all went trough the roof. after this test I came to the conclusion that on idle the performance of the heatsink transporting the heat away from the source is the key factor because even the slowmoving air can easially get rid off the little heat generated. on load the airflow is the key factor because the heatsink can't dissepate(spellcheck) the heat fast enough in slowmoving air.
  12. even if the cpu is dead the fans should still power up and it should still give a diognostic led warning that it's the cpu probably your mobo's toast
  13. look in his sig he already has a vf700
  14. it does have an insert key it's just somewhere else then it usualy is. it it under the zero on the number pad. if you switch off num lock you can still use it
  15. 1. steel of aluminum won't really make a difference temp wise because none of the electrical components are directly touching the case(except the hard drives). but it will make a difference weigth wise. 2. I never go for the top model because you pay a hundred dollars more for 10 percent mor performance which in my eyes isn't justified. (you can always overclock is you want the extra performance). iwould go for the x1900xt but the choice is yours to make this is just my opinion. 3. stock cooling is fine because it's purposely designed for the part. but it also is purposely designed to be cheap for better profit margins. this isn't always true but mostly it is. the x1900xtx usually already comes with a decent cooler. but if you want lower noise and lower temps third party cooling is always an option. 4. dont really understand this question.
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