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Everything posted by Jaxidian

  1. Went to the local Fry's and they didn't have much selection. I ended up getting an Vantec Iceberg 4 and after removing the blue plastic fan grill thingie it worked perfectly. Without removing that my video card pressed against the plastic but now there is a gap between my video card and the hsf. I would have ordered the Evercool but I needed a quick fix and this was about the best I could find. Perhaps I'll still get a stock replacement so if this Vantec fails I'll have a stock fan to use temporarily while I order an Evercool. Thanks for the help!
  2. I may both buy a new one as well as request a replacement. That way if one dies I have the other as a backup. Any idea what phone # or email address to use? -Jax
  3. Hmmm, after doing a little more searching figured I'd clarify some things. It seems as though the fan goes from quiet mode to noisy mode between 1k and 1.5k rpm. It's not running at 7k rpm or anything like that like other people have posted when complaining about the noise. I've been running this box rock solid without any changes for the past 5-6 months without this problem and this just started happening tonight (actually when I was going to bed, I heard it from a couple rooms away). Just wanted to clarify this to make sure it's understood that this isn't just due to a normally noisy fan, it seems as though this is being defectively noisy (if such a claim can be made). -Jax
  4. All of a sudden my chipset fan (oem) on my NF4-D is noisy. It sounds like I have heard other fans sound just before going dead but they always sounded like this for like 5 seconds before dying and this thing has now been doing this for hours. The speed of the fan sounds pretty steady and it is only noisy when it is spinning at over 2k rpm (at 1k or lower it's silent). Is there a known problem with the fan where I might be able to resolve this or is it definitely going dead? Now with the assumption that it's going dead, what are my options for having DFI replace it? From their website it sounds as though I have no chance at RMA'ing it here in the US (I'm in Indiana) and if I talk to my reseller I'm sure they'll want me to send the board back. I'd like for DFI to just mail me a new fan and leave it at that so I don't have to tear my box apart and have it sitting useless for weeks. Is that an option? Note: I attempted to post this in the "Ask DFI" forums but they're locked and there really wasn't an obvious better place for this question so forgive me if I'm in the wrong forum for such a question. Thanks! -Jax
  5. I just keep mine on the second-from-lowest setting.
  6. I agree, 623-2 seems to be the best universal BIOS out there. For some, other BIOSes may be better but this is a good one to start out with if you don't want to sift through 5 hours of reading.
  7. Doesn't sound too wierd to me. I had some BH6 sticks (not too different than BH5s) that would do 2225 1T at 240MHz but couldn't even do 2% 3448 at 242MHz. That's the nice thing about the BH chips is that even at their max overclock they can still do really tight timings. Kinda wierd compared to other RAM but also very nice.
  8. Thanks Thunda. I've made the changes you suggested and it's not helped - I still fail MemTest #5 at around 97% complete every time without exception (same problem I had before when I went over 230MHz). I'm still playing with the DRAM Drive Strength before I consider it a failure. (And yes I know some of those timings were overkill-loose - just trying to remove my timings as a limiting factor and will tighten them up once I know more about what the max clock I can reach is.) Also, any thoughts on if CH6 chips like voltage or not? I'm currently at 2.8v and have tried a couple times upping it to 3.0v and it's not made any difference. I've done a bit of googling (though not much) and I've not had any luck thus far finding out what kind of voltage limit I should restrict myself to with these sticks.
  9. Make sure you're not trying to apply nF4 techniques to your nF3 board.
  10. So far, not yet but I suspect it will. I got v1.2 which supposedly has CH6 chips on it. I have only gotten memtest stable at 230MHz (1:1) but can successfully post at 270MHz (1:1). So not successful yet but I'm hopeful. If you wanna help me, check out this thread.
  11. Okay, I'm back at maxxing this box again. Just replaced all of that Mushkin RAM with some Corsair TwinX2048 (2x1gb sticks) - the XMS3200C2 stuff (v1.2 - supposedly CH6 chips). So far I'm unable to get memtest stable at 240MHz (1:1 with the RAM) and I have a feeling I can go well beyond that (appear to post fine at 270MHz). However, I'm not finding many people around here that has the 2x1gb kit so am having a hard time getting some good examples of all of my timings. I tried doing it manually with some conservative values based on the stickied Memory guide but that fails to be as stable as Optimized Defaults. My CPU does 2.5GHz fine and 2.6GHz if I crank up the voltage (was with BH6 sticks at 5:6) so I'm sure the RAM is the problem here. Currently my settings are: FSB: 240 LDT/FSB Ratio: x3 LDT Bus Transfer Width: 16,16 CPU/FSB Ration: x9 PCI eXpress: 100MHz CnQ: Disable CPU VID Startup: 1.475 CPU VID Control: 1.475 CPU VID Special Control: *1.04 LDT Voltage: 1.3v Chipset Voltage: 1.6v DRAM Voltage: 2.8v DRAM +.03: Disable DRAM Ratio: 1:1 CPC: Disable TCL: 3.0 TRCD: 4 TRAS: 11 TRP: 4 TRC: 15 TRFC: 19 TRRD: 2 TWR: 2 TWTR: 2 TRWT: 3 TREF: 3120 TWCL: A DRAM Bank Interleave: E DQS Skew Control: A DQS Skew Value: 0 DRAM Drive Strength: A DRAM Data Drive Strength: A Max Async Latency: A DRAM Response Time: N Read Preamble Time: A IdleCycle Limit: 256 Dynamic Counter: D R/W Queue Bypass: 16 Bypass Max: 7 32 Byte Granularity: D(4) So with these being CH6 chips am I at my limit sticking around 230MHz even though I can post at 270MHz? I'm guessing not but would appreciate some feedback on this. -Jax
  12. I see a couple of things that you should be sure to at least consider and probably address: 1) With that design, you will basically have it such that it would be damn near impossible to get proper air flowing between the fins. With a fan blowing down it's basically blowing down at the flat side of a fin. You should put another 90-degree angle on the heatpipe so the fins rotate 90 degrees and then air blowing down at the motherboard from a fan would be going in between the fins for better cooling. 2) Don't heatpipe designs require gravity to work for them? By that, don't they require that they be positioned in such a way that the heat rises up to the fins? (I could be wrong here but I recall people having problems with HSFs that have heatpipes in them if they mount them upside-down in one of those cases that has the motherboard flipped 180 degrees.) If that's the case, you will have to design these such that it takes this into account. I don't know what all of the issues are here but be sure you do. But no, I wouldn't use them. Too much clutter and not enough room under my XP-90.
  13. Just as an update, I went to Fry's and priced things out there. Looks like their pricing is butt backwards and they have the TWINX2048-3200C2 for $309 and the TWINX2048-3200PT for $399. I just bought the C2's and am happy with that. Now comes the tweaking time.
  14. So I decided I wanted to get a pair of 1GB XMS sticks and started searching for good prices. Though Newegg doesn't have the best price on them all, they're close and allows us to relatively easily compare the different options. To my surprise, there were SIX different options for 2x1024 XMS!! What's the difference? I've spotted some differences but don't know what the others are. Newegg 2x1024 XMS Options Corsair's XMS Page From what I've been able to gather, the differences are with the SPD Timings and Voltages but this alone doesn't create 6 unique options so if you can fill in the gaps, I'd appreciate it greatly! Below are the timings/voltages that I've seen on both sites (they don't always agree): TWINX 2048-3200: Newegg: 3,4,4,[email protected] Corsair: 3,4,4,[email protected]? TWINX 2048-3200PT: Newegg: 3,4,4,[email protected] Corsair: 3,4,4,[email protected]? TWINX 2048-3200PRO: Newegg: 3,3,3,[email protected] Corsair: 3,3,3,[email protected]? TWINX 2048-3200C2: Newegg: 2,?,?,[email protected] Corsair: 2.5,3,3,[email protected] TWINX 2048-3200C2PT: Newegg: 2,?,?,[email protected] Corsair: 2.5,3,3,[email protected] TWINX 2048-3200C2PRO: Newegg: 2,?,?,[email protected]? w/LEDs Corsair: ?,?,?,[email protected]? (Not listed) If anybody had any other information about these models, what makes one different from the other, and which specifications are most likely accurate (as in can I hit those timings at the Newegg voltages?), and some information about the 3200C2PRO, I'd greatly appreciate it! -Jax
  15. Still no comments on the OCZ PC3500 from anybody? http://www.monarchcomputer.com/Merchant2/m...uct_Code=140322 Edit Okay, think I'm going with the Corsairs but I'm a bit confused by the different options. Which ones do I want for the highest clock speed? http://www2.dealtime.com/dt-app/SE/KW-TWIN...27/NS-1/GS.html Thanks!
  16. I'll check out that roundup - thanks! I wish I could get my stuff to work at 3:4 but I can't boot at stock or OC speeds with a 3:4 divider. Edit: Double-thanks for that article! Seems that they found the Corsair and Mushkin stuff performed much better (higher OCs) than the others! I know this is just a single test with a single pair of sticks from each mfr but is this generally the norm right now? I'd be pretty damn happy if my sticks reached 260-270MHz with looser timings!
  17. My overall problem is that my RAM is limiting my CPU overclock. My BH6 sticks are rock solid at 240MHz @ 2,2,2,5 but that's about as high as they'll go even if I slack the timings and play with the tons of other timings. Also, I can't get them to run at a divider lower than 5:6 (same with 2 other pairs of dual-channel sticks) which means that 290MHz is as high as I can possibly get the FSB and I think my CPU can go higher than that. Plus I want 2 1GB sticks. So moral of the story is I want these 2 1GB sticks to reach about 250MHz so I can find my CPU max speed as well as have 2GB (of 1GB sticks) of RAM in my box. Several of you suggested some sticks - how should I expect them to compare to the OCZ PC3500 sticks I originally linked to?
  18. I'm trying to find some good high-speed 2x1GB sticks (would rather use 1GB sticks than 512MB sticks for various reasons including the possiblity of having over 2GB in this box at a future date). The best that I've been able to find are a pair of OCZ PC3500 sticks at Monarch: http://www.monarchcomputer.com/Merchant2/m...uct_Code=140322 Any thoughts on these sticks or perhaps some other sticks that might fulfil my quest for some better memory? I'd like to get a pair of sticks that can go up to 250MHz or so but about $250 is also a very good limit to put on what I'm spending. I think now is about the time when I begin wishing AMD was using DDR2.
  19. I don't recall my board having a serial port header on the board. If you can find one then that serial port adapter thing from another motherboard would almost definitely work. Good luck on finding one though (I'm at work and can't check now)
  20. I had a Venice 3000+ (same stepping and week as yours) with 3/10 on the board from the box and upgrading to 6/23-2 helped a TON with stability, OCs, etc. I am still too ignorant to recommend it to you but it sure helped a TON for me!
  21. What BIOS are you running? Please put that in your sig too.
  22. I believe your question is that your CPU is a 2.6GHz CPU at stock speeds but if you increase your FSB but lower your multiplier so it is still running at 2.6GHz but your RAM is running faster, is that "overclocking"? Indeed, that would be overclocking your memory and you might see (or at least benchmark) a little bit of a gain by doing so (it will increase your memory bandwidth a little bit). However, with the way Athlon 64s are built, memory bandwidth is not a huge bottleneck for the system. With Athlon 64s, you will see a much more significant improvement by having the CPU overclocked. For example, if you can run your CPU at 3.0GHz and your RAM at 220MHz, that will be much better (generally speaking) than if you run your CPU at 2.6GHz and your RAM at 300MHz. What I would do if I were you is not worry too much about your RAM and see how high you can get your CPU at stock voltages. If you're trying to undervolt your CPU for a quiet system, I would then do 2 things: sell your FX (you don't need that expensive of a processor to do that) and then see how fast you can run the CPU (probably get a Venice) at slightly lower voltages than stock. Though there are many people here who are much smarter than I am so I recommend you listen to them if they have differing opinions.
  23. I agree with this. I used to buy cheap RAM and I've so kicked myself in the butt because of it. To this day I don't own a single stick of generic RAM that I would ever use for anything other than a key chain or in an old Celeron 400 box. If you want cheap RAM, you can get name-brand cheap RAM for about $5 more than you'd pay for the generic stuff. IMO if you can get a refund on your generic stuff, go for it (if it's new). If it's not new then I recommend you invest $30 and get some good RAM to use for testing to eliminate your generic RAM as a problem. Check out this thread and you can get some $27 Mushkin 256MB PC3200 RAM for cheap (be sure to get PC3200 and not 2100 or 2700).
  24. Their info is good about knowing how dual channel RAM works. As for when you actually purchase "Dual Channel Kits", all that means is that those 2 sticks you buy were tested together and are supposed to work well in dual channel setups. A lot of generic and crappy RAM (and even some good RAM though most nowdays is fine) wouldn't work at all when in dual channel configurations. Basically the problem is that one stick would use one set of timings and the other stick would use a slightly different set of timings and things would get all out of whack and you couldn't run the computer at all. Nowdays you can get into BIOS with most good sticks of RAM even if they're not Dual Channel but it's still by far best to purchase dual-channel kits for best stability and overclocks.
  25. Good luck on the OC! Remember to always be very very careful!! And be SUPER careful with BIOS flashing if you don't have a backup mechanism (aka BIOS Saviour or something similar).
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