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Beer Moon

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About Beer Moon

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  1. Oh yeah, and if you were running with different IDE drivers before, the new chipset may not like them very much at all, which could easily cause the issue you are having with your DVD drive. They might be conflicting with the new drivers. Were you able to uninstall the old ones before reinstalling the new ones? You may not even be able to tell where they are, and uninstalling them is not proof that no remnants of them are left in XP. A corrupted IDE driver would certainly cause issues with the DVD drive and then fail to boot windows properly. I don't think most drivers are used in Safe Mode, which might explain why you can load up the OS that way. At least it will allow you to back up stuff before you reinstall. I would format and reinstall and then see if you still have issues with the DVD writer (I doubt you will). I think most people would have told you to format and reinstall when changing motherboards anyway, especially from one chipset to another.
  2. If the DVD writer is causing problems, is there perhaps a different firmware you might be able to try for it? As for needing to reinstall the OS, I wouldn't dwell too long on being upset about that. It just IS necessary, especially with XP and the way windows handles drivers. I have seen people need to do format/reinstalls just to be sure the IDE drivers are changed. Can't really blame DFI for that. It's just one thing Windows doesn't do well. Due to my constant upgrades, what I have done is create partitions on my hard drives. I keep a separate partition for my OS, and I do not install programs to their default C:/... directory: I always put them on my other partitions. This way, when a format is required, I tend to have the data from many of the programs I use every day. Even if I need to reinstall some, I still have access to the old saves and data that was stored in those folders. It lets me not worry too much about having to format. It will always take time, but I save time by having many preferences and saves and data saved on a separate partition.
  3. My 3000+ doesn't like some dividers. Won't boot at all to anything below 150, no matter what the multiplier/HTT/voltage.
  4. Kick down a divider and see if that fixes it. Then kick up to the HTT setting and run at 8x or 6x on teh CPU and see if that fixes it to nail down whether RAM or CPU is responsible. Then adjust accordingly. Take a fraction of the time it took you to get this far hehe.
  5. It's a crapshoot with the chips man. If you're under like 60C LOAD on the CPU, you're probably OK. You can try pushing more volts through it to see if that lets you Prime 95 stable, but that's completely up to you. As stated, 2.4Ghz isn't bad. I took mine through stability testing at 2567Mhz, but I just got my new RAM and haven't been able to get any stable clocks past that so far. Currently pushing 1.3+126% through it and load is around 52C. I error out of Prime 95 in under a minute, even though I can play games and run the 1M superPi in 31s heh. Getting out of my comfort range temp wise though. For long term OC I would prefer under 50C load. I'll be messing with mine this weekend to see if any voltage lets me run stable at 2.6Ghz or above. In the past I've booted into windows with 2710 with this chip, so I was kind of hoping my RAM would let me get up there. I think I'm limited cooling wise now though, but I'll be pushing up to about 1.7v this weekend to see if that helps me or not, with a close eye on temps. If it does help, I'm not opposed to buying an XP-120 to replace this 7000B-Cu if that's what it takes. Anyway, those are my experiences with it. I'd be happy to cram 1.8v through it if it meant I'd be stable under 50C if it wouldn't require phase change, but we all know that isn't going to happen haha!
  6. 50C load on a 7000B-Cu pushing the volts listed in sig @2567. I get my OCZ EL Plat Rev 2s tonight to replace my budget RAM so I'll see just how high I can go on my current setup. Right now, I have only ONE (1) crappy 80mm case fan in teh back. I have two 80mm Panaflos and one 120mm panaflo for Intake OTW with a Vantec fan controller to keep noise under control. They should be here next week, which should fix my case ventilation issues, and I'm hoping it will take me back down to 50C again, should I need to push more volts for higher clocks. I hoping for 2.7 stable. So as for the 7700Cu, yes, it should do just fine as long as your CPU can hit those clocks at or around 1.6v.
  7. Doing a cursory check of the OC DB, it looks like super high Vdimm and BH-5 is the only way to hit around a 250Mhz clock with RAM and keep it at 2-2-2-5. At 250Mhz and above, it looks like the TCC5 likes a top of more like 2.8 and needs a CAS back at 2.5. However, it also seems to clock up over 275 really well. Sort of a toss up I guess. I am not thrilled about cooling dimms that need 3.4v+, but I don't know if it's worth $50 to me to get the TCC5 and have less heat to worry about. Hmmmm. Definitely some things to consider hehe.
  8. Looking for opinions between these two: Gold with the new UTT BH5s OR EL Plat Rev2 with TCC5s I know they cost more, but I'm leaning toward the TCC5s atm. $170 is the most I want to spend (more, really heh). I have the board to push high volts, but I'm not sure I want to. I'm thinking I can get more out of the TCC5s with less voltage and therefore less heat to deal with. I want to go stable at at least 2.7Ghz, not afraid to use a divider. Any thoughts?
  9. Yeah sorry I was unclear in my post. Your board won't run it in Dual Channel MODE. It should run the RAM just fine in single channel mode. I was speculating why they might not list a single channel board, however there could be other reasons. Is there another machine you can try the RAM in to make sure it's not bad before you get different stuff? Kind of doubt both sticks would be bad or incompatible with that board (but I suppose it is possible).
  10. It's dual channel RAM, and your board won't run Dual Channel RAM. Why not buy two unmatched 512 sticks? Seems like someone might be upset if they chose that RAM, and then wanted to find a compatible board (you never know). Then if a single channel board was listed maybe they'd get mad that it doesn't run the RAM to its full potential. Dunno, just speculation really.
  11. The first thing to check for is a short. Take it all out of the case, put the board on a nonconductive platform, use just 1 stick of RAM, the CPU, and the PSU. See if it acts the same or not. If it gives you the VGA not detected code, add that, and then see if you can get it to go any further. The first thing I did was turn on the jumper for the onboard speaker. You will get one beep when the POST clears (I don't usually plug in a monitor for this kind of test).
  12. Here's what I'm considering atm. Wish List of TCCD sticks on Newegg I'm about to pick up those EL Plat Rev 2s. They have TCC5s in them now from what I understand, which are well known to do speeds over 250 in many cases, and they like low voltage from what I have read. They are about $30 more than what you spent. Close to your price range. I used the following memory guide topic to see what had what sticks. XtremeSystems RAM List topic.
  13. I think it depends on your cooling. Mine hits load temps in the mid 50s at 1.6v. I don't like to push it any further. I think the general advice for longevity is to keep load temps under 50C if possible. Raise voltage slowly.
  14. There's a great thread at Anand where Zebo put a heck of a lot of time into testing this very thing on A64. See for yourself.
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