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muggie2

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About muggie2

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  1. Tried and failed. Chaintech uses modules made by several different manufacturers, each of which may or may not use different chips for different batches. Adata doesn't specify the chips used. All I can find out is they do 3-4-4-8 timings at PC4000 What I may do is get both, try them both, and see. The alternative is to build a new system using an X2 4800 paired with my last remaining set of Mushkin Redline XP4000, and relegate my current system to the backup role. Muggie2
  2. I'm in Korea (what did I do to deserve this?, you may ask - I'm a teacher. Sad, huh?), and I have very few options for memory over here. Which of the following options would work for my backup nF4 Ultra-D: A-Data PC4000 Vitesta 512MBx2 Chaintech Apogee PC3200 1GB And which would be better? Muggie2
  3. Heat can make a previously stable overclock unstable. When running a graphics-intensive game, the GPU pumps out a lot of heat, plus the CPU pumps out a lot of heat, and the power draw makes the PSU heat up too. Add warm weather into it, and you can end with instability. My CPU can do 2.7GHz (270x10) stably with memory at 9/10 until I run games, when it locks up in minutes (seems to be due to overheating). If I set it at 2.5GHz instead (250x10) and run the memory synchronously, it can play any game without problems. Try throttling the overclock back a bit, and play intensively. If it runs stably for hours, check the temps. Later you can slowly edge the overclock up a bit until it loses stability, then measure the temps again, back it off a little, and use the new system settings as your stable gaming overclock. Muggie2
  4. Wish I could help. I'm one of the aforementioned Aus/NZ dudes, but I'm currently in Korea, and don't know much. I'll see what I can find out and get back to you.
  5. My gaming rig has the 3200+ stable at 2750MHz, and the memory stable at 248MHz (at 2-3-2-5). If I start playing games, however, it's is unstable, because even though the highest overclock works well for normal testing purposes, gaming just stresses the system in multiple ways at the same time, whereas the testing programs stress it in several ways sequentially. For testing and basic games, 275/248 is stable For most non-FPS games, 260/260 is stable For EQ2 and similar games, 250/250 is stable My thinking is that when the graphics card is working hard, it heats up the inside of the case, and with the increased temperatures, my previously stable overclock becomes unstable. It could be the purity of the power supplied to the system too, but my guess is heat, since EQ2 won't run at all if the PWMIC goes over 50 degrees. Maybe I should back off on the graphics card overclock, but it is only overclocked 9%, and the graphics speed gain is more important to me for gaming than the CPU/Memory overclocks; and when I'm not gaming, the higher CPU/Memory overclocks work whether the graphics card is overclocked or not. Just some ideas for you - maybe the stable overclock you have isn't so stable with other things happening inside and outside the case. Muggie2
  6. I'm running my 3200+ with 2x512MB Mushkin Redline XP4000 at 250/250 without any problems. I could run it at up to 275/250 at 9/10 ratio on the RAM but the PWMIC kept overheating whenever I played EQ2 at anything over 250/250, so I came back and stayed at that. The Mushkin is at 2-3-2-5 timings (couldn't get it to 2-2-2-X at any combination of voltage and other settings that I tried, so I went back to this) and it seems very fast. I'd say - consider the Mushkin. I know some other people have had problems, others swear by it. I'm one of the second group. Muggie2
  7. My rig was solid for everything except games and Prime95 at 275MHz core/250MHz memory, rock solid at 270MHz core/244MHz memory for everything except games such as EQ2 and BF2, and solid for everything at 250MHz core/250MHz memory. I think my problem may have been related to the PWMIC or the chipset going higher than 50 degrees C and not liking it; my guess is based on my fiddling with my system to try and find the cause. I know that lowering the cooling fan speed forces the temps to rise, and I have noticed that instabilities and errors creep in the moment they hit around 50 - 51 degrees. Cutting back on overclocks, or working on cooling may help, but experimenting may help to pinpoint a cause with more accuracy.
  8. To be honest, I haven't done (5) myself since my PSU only has one FDD connector, and I find myself using the floppy occasionally. My system is running stable at 10x250, but if I want to take it any further I'll have to forego the FDD, I think, just to ensure enough clean power to the mobo. An aside: Query - how does the 0704-BT bios compare to the 0623 that I'm using at the moment? I really don't like flashing the BIOS any more than I need to, but if the performance and stability gains are worth it, I'll do it.
  9. Go through the process you followed during the mobo driver installation, and what else you did before you tried installing the XFX graphics drivers disk. And also tell us when the BSOD appears - at bootup, when it's reading the disk, when it's trying to install the drivers, or what. With that information, I'm sure someone will have some more ideas. And good luck! Muggie2
  10. I'd vote for Hitachi too. I'm using a 160GB Sata (not SATA-II) and it's great. I had a Maxtor before, and the Hitachi outperformed it overall, though there were some areas where the Maxtor was faster. If quietness is your goal, then Seagate is great, though I've heard that Seagate hard drives don't always work well with DFI Lanparty boards. Can anyone confirm or deny that one with any certainty? Muggie2
  11. The graphics card produces heat, and when gaming it's producing lots of heat. In a sealed case, the heat generally warms up everything else inside the case by a few degrees, and this can be enough to cause instability. At the same time, when you're gaming it's using more power. A single 7800GTX will suck down a lot of power, enough to drive a system to well over 200W of power, sometimes as high as 340W when using factory overclocked cards (see http://www.tomshardware.com/2005/12/09/sev...dia/page40.html). Even if the power demands alone weren't enough to crash the system, those demands plus the extra heat can be, especially if your power circuitry is close to the heat limits already. (NOTE: This isn't the power demand of the card, but the power demand of the system with that card installed. Hungrier systems will need more power. nF4 chipsets are hungry, DFI nF4 ones are hungrier (and need clean power), and whenever you use power, you get waste heat. Usually in the worst places.) Have a look at the case temps, the chipset temps, MOSFET temps, and graphics card temps if possible. If it ain't a temperature problem, it'll at least eliminate one possible problem and get is looking at other possible causes. Muggie2
  12. Or a 7800GT. Nice card, can overclock well(depending what card you buy and what you wanna do with it), and great power usage figures. Not as good as a GTX, but also not as hungry. :-) Muggie2
  13. My performance improvement from switching from 2T to 1T is a 14% gain (SANDRA) and a slight but noticeable gain in games (varies between games). But you're right - if 4x512 is working, you don't change it unless you really want to. Muggie2
  14. I'm running 2x512MB Mushkin Redline XP4000, and apart from some problems tweaking them to the timings I want, they're great. Need active cooling though, so you have to have a fan blowing air across them when they're running fast. They're at timings of 2-3-2-5 at 3.1 volts, and seem to be damned fast indeed. Now, if I could just get the timings to 2-2-2-5 it'd be good, but I can't seem to get that stable at any speed or voltage.... Of course, if you're wanting to play Battlefield 2 or similar games, 2x1GB would be better than the 2x512MB I have. And if you don't want to throw too much voltage at the memory, the Samsung TCCD and TCC5 chips seem to be pretty good. Keep on reading, I'm sure there'll be lots of people to throw some ideas your way on what they have working well. Muggie2
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