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About Ji-Owon

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  1. Off topic but I just gotta say - Awesome posting AG!
  2. If you have an old 5 or 10, 20GB HDD around use that to install Windows on first - with mobo set to stock of course. Get all your drivers and must have apps installed - and maybe one game for testing provided it doesn't take up too much room. Once that is all going use something like ghost to burn an image of it to a DVD-R - make it a bootable ghost dvd image. Pop your new HDD in and test the DVD out by restoring the image from the dvd to the new hdd. If all is well with the image pop the old hdd back in and start OC'ing. If you get even one blue screen just reset back to stock (taking notes where your at of course) and then restore the image back to the old hdd. Start tweaking again. When you want to gice OC'ing a rest (uh huh) - pop you new hdd in and put more of those games back on or whatever it is you want to install. Don't do any OC'ing with that hdd unless you know it works 100%. Use the old hdd for the serious OC'ing. After time if you have downloaded and installed some new hardware drivers or even new hardware make a new dvd image. To answer the original post: I agree with the other guys , these are support forums and as such people are generally seeking support for problems. The fact that these forums are so active and hugely popular was one of the deciding factors for me when purchasing my new mainboard.
  3. This is probably old news here but just in case it isn't and since you asked OCZ had some issues here in Australia last month - http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=351309
  4. [email protected]&n? isn't that a block of cheese? I understand your pc is out of action which can be a real drag but when seeking help, information, advice etc. try not call the other people you have sought advice from names - even if they smell like cheese. The "puller" I got with my board is intended for use when reconfiguring the sli jumper blocks - it could be used for other things however. If your out of options (ie. RA not possible) and your comfortable pulling chips and installing them then under certain circumstances you may be able to buy pre-flashed bios chips in Australia for your board. go have a look on www.nintek.com.au
  5. I know - it was there but one of the mods moved it to here. oh well i tried.
  6. There are definately four power connectors for your board - all of them different 1x 24pin, 1x 4pin (p4 square type), 1x 4 pin molex(dvdrom drive type) and 1x 4pin floppy disk drive type. The 24pin and p4 square 4pin are next to the ata ide sockets not far from the ram slots closest to the cpu. The 4pin molex is right next to the chipset fan and it's power connector. The 4pin floppy type is right under the pcie 4x socket near the cpu - next to a small heatsink. This is probably the one you can't find
  7. EazTerence: 5V and 5VSB are two different things. Not sure about the power on by password - haven't tried that myself. I just use the crtl-f1 hotkey. blink182prj: Haven't got a usb keyboard - bummer about it not working for you tho. Have you tried just plugging in the adapter only in the keyboard's ps/2 port - just so something is plugged in there? It shouldn't work of course because none of the pins in the adapter would actually be connected to anything - but you never know
  8. The USB Power Select is split over two jumpers. One jumper for usb ports 1 - 6 and another jumper for ports 7 - 10. You'll want at least 2A on the +5VSB rail of your psu to be on the safe side when setting these jumpers.
  9. You need to set the PS/2 Power Select Jumper to "On" pins 2-3. The Ps/2 keyboard will then have power supplied to it even when the pc is switched off. ie. it will be using the +5VSB rail instead of the default +5V rail. Check the documention to find it's location - also make note of the fact you need greater than or equal to 720mA on the +5VSB. You should be fine with your psu but check it for the sake of it.
  10. looks like you've tried almost everything. try this- - remove power completely - press power button a few times to discharge - remove all the ram - remove gfx card - remove HSF and cpu - remove all power cables - remove mainboard from case - clean case and check underside of mainboard for dust, wires or anything that shouldn't be there. - put it back in and reinsert power cables (all of them) - set vdimm jumper back to 3.3V default!! - set the cmos clear jumper - remove battery - go watch LOTR Fellowship extended dvd - wait for credits - do not skip chapters and play at standard 1x speed - put one stick of ram in from you NF2 system in slot 1 - place cmos clear back to default - test your battery with a DMM and make sure it is ok i.e 3V or bit over - if not ok try using the one from your other system - should be the same but check it. or go buy a new one. - insert battery - reinsert gfx card or try another one if you think that may help - reinstall CPU and HSF. reapply thermal grease if necessary - double check cpu HSF is seated correctly - did you remember to set vdimm jumper back to 3.3V default?? - reinsert power cable - power up system and try to go right into bios - if you make it that far load optimised defaults - save and exit I think the guy on the other thread meant to say flash to 510-2 That version seems to work well for me - I like to hang back from the bleeding edge bios's - provided it's all working "if it ain't broke don't fix it"
  11. What actually happens? Windows BSOD's before logon? If so try DRAM Drive Strength of 5 and DRAM Data Drive Strength of 1 with CPC Enabled(1T). That suggestion is based on your type of memory in your sig and the memory guide here in the forums. With my Value VX those two values in the bios had a HUGE impact on stability - ie. booting into windows or not. Your PSU just meets the power requirements of the mainboard - since your just using a 6600GT and it doesn't look like you have a huge amount of other hardware hanging off it so you should be safe in that department. Nice case btw
  12. Apparently a fairly decent PSU from what I've read - but according to offical recommendations it is under spec'd for your system. My personal experience with a Venice, OCZ memory and the Ultra-D proved this as well. Wihle I was procrastinating over which PSU to buy I borrowed a 24pin 450W CoolerMaster PSU. All worked fine no problems, had all the power cables plugged in. Out of curiosity I decided to find out what the max HTT and CPU speeds were using independant overclocking methods. I had no intention of overclocking the whole thing with this PSU as I new it was under spec'd (480W minimum) but I wanted know anyway. DMM at hand and following some of the excellent OC guides around here and the net I proceeded. The results - CoolerMaster 24pin 450W: Max stable HTT = 309Mhz Max stable CPU = 2568Mhz No noticable fluctuations on the 12V, 5V or 3.3V from idle to under load (testing with prime95). Oh stock voltages for cpu (1.375V) and 2.8v for memory. Yeah ok I thought. Set everything back to defaults (except memory cause that was rock solid 200Mhz 2-2-2-5 @2.8V). A week later I finally got around to getting my new PSU - Antec Truecontrol II 550W. Set that up using the DMM so I was happy with all the rails etc. Not changing anything but the PSU and the results - Antec Truecontrol II 24pin 550W: Max stable HTT = 315Mhz Max stable CPU = 2700Mhz *note: vcore still @ 1.375V for this test Not saying this will happen for you - it's just what happened for me. It could be that the coolermaster was a little iffy, didn't want to play nice on the day with the rest of my hardware. Or it could be that the TCII with it's voltage rails set around 3% over the standard 3.3, 5 and 12V each had something to do with it or it is just the right psu for the me. If you have the time and know someone with one of the recommended PSU's (found elsewhere in these forums) - ask nicely and try it out and see how it goes in your system. It may help or it might not - either way an interesting experiment.
  13. If I can add anything to the already good advice given here it's this - patience is a virtue If it only takes a few weeks to save up the cash for either of the recommended PSU's then take the time and save up. You'll forget all about the 2-4 weeks wait in a year or two from now. Also remember that ALL PSU manufacturers occasioanlly produce a bad PSU or two - it's what happens when things go bad that can save your PC. I've had an Antec Truepower 430W that went bang after 13 months of use - it was the only thing that went bang. Got the replacment sorted and that PC is running fine.
  14. I found an old 5.25" hdd cooler at the bottom of one of my junk draws, replaced the fans with something a little decent, used a little insulation tape, rubber bands and one of those molex to 3pin splitter you sometimes get with vga coolers. The splitter I'm using here lets me choose between 12V and 5V for the fans - I'm using just the 5V on these to keep the noise down. Most of the weight is supported by the fact I've tied the power cables above and away from the colling unit. Hope that helps someone. I've learned alot from these forums - hope I can soon add something useful to them. Big thanks to everyone who has posted here. I'll post my benchies, oc results soon if worthwhile. Ji
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