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About SquattingDog

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  1. Cheers for your advice again Wev, I'll give it a shot. Yes, one stick seems to be "stronger" and one weaker, the weaker is in the furthest most orange slot, where it seems to perform better. I'll also give the yellow slots a whirl - but was under the impression that they weren't as good for UCCC...however, trial-and-error will tell . Also, no I haven't given those settings a shot, I'll try them out now. It certainly seems that the ram is burning itself in...but maybe burning itself out is more like it :/...they love low volts, and refuse to run above 2.5v. I will try a couple of other BIOSes out over the next couple of days too.
  2. Ok, about to tear my hair out here. The OCZ5002...ram that I bought was incompatible with this motherboard, so I got a refund on it, and got a set of G. Skill BHZ. So I just drop it in (after a CMOS clear), and crank up the G.Skill Tech's timings from the CheatSheet. First stick passes memtest with 250mhz 1:1 and x8 multi (2ghz - stock, with ram at 250mhz) no worries. Several loops, not a prob. So I slap the second stick in, try that. Fails on test 8. I change some settings, do it again, fails again on test 8. Now after 10hrs (yes, 10hrs) of changing various settings in the bios, the lowest error rate i have got on the second, single stick on its own is 2 errors, on the second pass of 3. Attempting to eliminate this, I have thrown all sorts of settings at it for the past 9.5hrs, with no joy. Finally feeling beaten, I put it back to the exact settings that I used before, with the 2errors over 3 passes, and what happens? 39 errors on test 8. I just don't get it. I'm going to try the sticks individually in my flatmate's PC tomorrow, when he's home, because this is not making me happy. I know very well about the "don't whine because you spent so much and you expected it to work, blah blah..."...but please...a little help. I've gone throught EVERY tRef value and everything...settings below, other tested ones that were worse are in brackets: BIOS: 704-2BTA FSB Bus Frequency - 200 LDT/FSB Frequency Ratio - x3 CPU/FSB Frequency Ratio - x8 PCI eXpress Frequency - 100Mhz CPU VID StartUp Value - 1.35v CPU VID Control – 1.35v CPU VID Special Control - Auto LDT Voltage Control - 1.20v (1.3, 1.4) Chip Set Voltage Control - 1.50v (1.6, 1.7) DRAM Voltage Control - 2.5v (everything up to 2.7) Dram + 0.03: disabled (tried with everything up to 2.7, enable or disable all the way up) DRAM Configuration Settings: DRAM Frequency Set - 200 (1/1) Command Per Clock (CPC) - Enable CAS Latency Control (Tcl) – 3 RAS# to CAS# delay (Trcd) - 4 Bus Clocks Min RAS# active time (Tras) - 8 Bus Clocks (6, 7) Row precharge time (Trp) - 4 Bus Clocks (3) Row Cycle time (Trc) - 7 Bus Clocks (8-15) Row refresh cyc time (Trfc) - 17 Bus Clocks (13-16, 18) Row to Row delay (Trrd) - 2 Bus Clocks (3, 4) Write recovery time (Twr) - 2 Bus Clocks (3) Write to Read delay (Twtr) - 2 Bus Clocks (1) Read to Write delay (Trwt) - 3 Bus Clocks (2, 4) Refresh Period (Tref) - 3684 (everything else, including auto) Write CAS Latency (Twcl) - 1 DRAM Bank Interleave - Enabled DQS Skew Control - Auto (increase, decrease) DQS Skew Value - 0 (255) DRAM Drive Strength - Weak 4 [Level 7] (everything else) DRAM Data Drive Strength - Level 1 (everything else) Max Async Latency - 7 (8, 9, 10) DRAM Response Time - Normal (fastest) Read Preamble Time – 5 (5.5-7.5) IdleCycle Limit - 256 Cycles Dynamic Counter - disable (enable) R/W Queue Bypass - 16 x (8x) Bypass Max - 07 x (4x) 32 Byte Granularity - Disable(4 Bursts)
  3. Yup, that's the bios i'm using too. Thanks for the reply Wev, most appreciated. Those settings let it get though the FIRST pass of memtest without errors, so I booted to windows, BSOD left-right and center. Played around with it a little more, trying memtest again, errors after the second pass and above. RMAing sticks for refund, going to see if I can get my hands on some G.Skill HZ.
  4. Yeah, well, I received the ram...first kit was DOA. RMA'd it back for another set, second set wasnt DOA as such, but no matter what settings in the BIOS, couldnt get it to play at 250mhz (its rated) - even when it managed to pass memtest86+, it BSOD'd in windows like a stray dog on acid. So I'm RMAing this kit back - retailer is going to test it - and I'm getting some G.Skill BHZ (one of the last kits of it available) Cheers for your recommendations though guys, appreciated - in NZ we don't quite have the range (at the right prices) of DDR500..and with most manufacturers not making it anymore..what can I say?
  5. Just like to drop in my ram exp with OCZ Performance (the low-end binned EL) - basically I had the same prob - no matter what timings, settings etc - even when it did memtest stable, wasnt stable in the slightest in windows..:/...BSOD left right and center... RMAing back to get some Corsair TWINX2048-4000PT ... but now i'm a little worried that maybe this wont work well on this motherboard either...
  6. Unfortunately, it sounds like that may be the case. One of my harddrives (my oldest - 80gb IDE) began doing that a couple of months ago - each time i rebooted, it was worse and worse. I tried to save some of the files, and some are intact, but many are still corrupted. Turn on SMART in the bios, just to make sure that neither disk is failing that. If they are, your disks are going on the blink (re: my WD Raptor), and once you get all your data off, try running a re-0ing program such as AutoNuke to reset your harddrives back to their "factory" status - as a plain and simple format does not do this to them (the data is still left there, and just overwritten as you install new programs/files - the difference is that the boot table gets wiped, and so it appears that there is nothing on there). Be aware that using such a program will systematically go through all your currently connected drives, and do its thing - so make sure you have ALL the data off them (corrupted or not) first. It seems to have saved my 80gb from its corruption-issues...the WD is long since dead though. Good luck getting those photos off there >.
  7. Well, if you're planning on running those 2 cards in an SLI-type setup, then no. That would leave you with only one output at max. If you are planning to use the two cards individually, then I really cant say - not even sure if the drivers would allow you to do that - I know that some people who want to run dual or tri-monitor setups have ended up using ATi Rage PCI cards along-side their nVidia SLI setups... If anything, an ATi-based board with onboard graphics (x200) and a seperate graphics card (eg your 7950) would give 4 outputs, HOWEVER, one would be a VGA, which you'd need to use an adaptor on, and thus a loss in signal quality and crispness on that particular projector, I'd imagine... On the other hand, possibly adding an ATi Card alongside your nVidia one would work? such as an x1300 (dual-dvi model) or above (without the need to go to ridiculous expense, solely for outputting). The Matrox cards are TRIPLE head, so they can run 3 outputs at once, but not 4. Getting one of those cards would be a mistake, as a single-card solution to your problem. As far as the other workstation cards are concerned, I'm not too sure about it, best bet would be to jump onto nVidia's forums and have an ask around there. Hopefully this helps somewhat...
  8. I recently purchased a kit of OCZ DDR500 OCZPF5002GK, and have spent some time trying to get the settings perfect. I have managed to get it to pass memtest happily for over 7 loops through all tests. However, the first time i booted into windows at those settings, I got the dreaded BSOD. Now as far as what ram chips this ram is using, its beyond me. 3 OCZ reps (Tony included) have told me various things...none gave a solid answer..."It's probably using CE-based chips..", "It could be UCCC that didn't pass the testing for the Gold stuff...eg binned differently" and "It could even be a mixture..." were the answers I was given...(almost thinking I should have spent another $30 to get some Corsair that definitely had UCCC chips...albeit EOL). Anyhows...I'm sticking with this OCZ stuff for now, and I'm sure it has potential...The following are my bios settings: FSB Bus Frequency - 270 LDT/FSB Frequency Ratio - x3.0 CPU/FSB Frequency Ratio - 10x PCI eXpress Frequency - 100Mhz CPU VID StartUp Value - 1.35v CPU VID Control - 1.45v CPU VID Special Control - Auto LDT Voltage Control - 1.30v Chip Set Voltage Control - 1.6v DRAM Voltage Control - 2.5v +0.3V if DRAM not 3.2v - Enabled (2.58v effective on the ram) DRAM Configuration Settings: DRAM Frequency Set - 180=RAM/FSB:09/10 Command Per Clock (CPC) - Enable CAS Latency Control (Tcl) - 3.0 RAS# to CAS# delay (Trcd) - 04 Bus Clocks Min RAS# active time (Tras) - 08 Bus Clocks Row precharge time (Trp) - 04 Bus Clocks Row Cycle time (Trc) - 7 Bus Clocks Row refresh cyc time (Trfc) - 16 Row to Row delay (Trrd) - 04 Bus Clocks Write recovery time (Twr) - 03 Bus Clocks Write to Read delay (Twtr) - 02 Bus Clocks Read to Write delay (Trwt) - 04 Bus Clocks Refresh Period (Tref) - 2560 Cycles DRAM Bank Interleave - Enabled DQS Skew Control - Decrease DQS Skew Value - 0 DRAM Drive Strength - Weak 4 (Level 7) DRAM Data Drive Strength - Level 3 Max Async Latency - 8.0ns DRAM Response Time - Normal Read Preamble Time - 6.5ns IdleCycle Limit - 256 Cycles Dynamic Counter - Disable R/W Queue Bypass - 08 x Bypass Max - 04 x 32 Byte Granularity - Disable(4 Bursts) My guess is that this ram is using slow-binned UCCC, as it's rated at 3-4-4-8, but still, not too sure on that. Any input would be appreciated. - as I still get the occasional BSOD in windows - not necessarily when gaming etc..Was playing F.E.A.R fine just before, then quit that, started browsing and playing music, and it had a blue screen.
  9. I need to get a new CPU fan for my XP-120 - old one has got a strange "rattle" to it, and creates a lot of vibration, with a lot less airflow that it used to...Yes it is clean - this is not caused by some kinda dust on it... So what I would like to is what fans you guys recommend? I'm looking for whisper-quiet but also high airflow (when required). Current fan spins up at 2500rpm max, i think it pushes around 90~100cfm or something around there..not 100% though...its an Evercool one that came with my XP-120 last year. Ideally I want a UV reactive one (not an LED one) as I'm trying to get case fully UV - but that's not a biggy, as I have a large fan-grill that sits on it anyhow. Also looking for a 120mm UV reactive fan for one of the rear outflows on case...but the CPU fan is the main one . I have heard lots of good things about Panaflo fans, its just a matter of finding one...and it also needs to do 100cfm+ if poss...(yes, i'm asking the impossible, i know )
  10. Ah yes, that is precisely the problem I had when my RAM was unstable at high overclocks. Check that first. Yup, this has also given headaches in the past - check it out. Unlikely that it is a virus...but don't rule out any possibility until you have thoroughly tested to find out. Only other thing I can think of is Hard Drive corruption - which may be occurring if your harddrive is going on the blink...of course, this would probably only be the case if everything that was on that harddrive was getting corrupted too...in that case try out AutoNuke (make sure you unplug all other harddrives first) - as this does a "low level" format - writes full 0's to your harddrive. NOTE: ONLY DO THE ABOVE IF LOTS OF STUFF IS CORRUPTING, AND IF NONE OF THE OTHER ADVICE WORKS. ALL DATA LOST USING AUTONUKE IS IRRECOVERABLE! hope this helps
  11. Have you changed any settings at all? I find that if my rig is unstable (overclocks too high etc), then it does that. Try increasing CPU voltage by 0.025v...might fix it...still - strange that it just started doing it. You didn't feed 3.6v into that patriot ram at any stage, did you?
  12. MSI Abit Asus would be my picks - when I cant get a DFI board to suit (or the budget doesn't meet it), I go with MSIs...and they have all been good so far. Have had some trouble with Asus caps exploding and leaking around the 10-14mth point on several boards, so tend to be a little wary of them...but features-wise and plug-n-play wise they are good. Those boards that popped caps weren't OC'd either...:/... Abit had a very good run in the nf2 era...haven't seen a lot of them lately tho.. Gigabyte is ok...I just haven't had much luck with em. Sure they're stable..but 90% of them cant OC for ****, so I just steer clear of them. Stay away from ECS - they are all-round crap in my experience. Epox isnt too bad actually, not that I think about it... In the end it comes down to brand preference. DFI tops all, but yes, they're fiddly to get up and running
  13. Yup, my bad...sorry Happy... Hadn't been on the street in a while, its had a facelift and I plain out obviously wasnt paying attention in my haste for answers >< The deal has been sealed, and the ram should arrive tomorrow. According to Eric from OCZ, they should be using "Either Infineon CE-5 or CE-6" but the timings of 3-4-4-8 seem a little...how shall i say..HIGH for these ram chips at their rated speed? Meh, I'll find out when I get em...
  14. Hey guys, I cant seem to find any reviews or opinions on this ram, and I'm looking to get at least 2gb now, and maybe another 2gb in a month's time (when the cash rolls in from work). I have missed out on the BHZ stuff, and this is the best value-for-money, named brand PC4000 2gb 2x1024mb kit I can find. I'm wondering exactly what chips its running, if anyone knows? Timings are 3-4-4-8, so I'm hoping UCCC (as are most at this pricepoint) and i really don't have anymore to spend on this ram for the moment, but REALLY need new ram too (as i'm STILL using 512mb of generic, crap Legend(arily .) PC3200 that i'm borrowing atm). I saw some Corsair TwinX2048-4000PT for $60 less (brand new), but upon calling the store, they said their supplier that had it at that price had sold out, and it was $100 more... I'm still looking at a price of $495NZD for a kit...but to wire transfer my money from a NZ account to a US one, cost $80NZ last time, and the dollar was STRONG, so it will be around $100 now...all things in account - its easier and less hassle this way, while being around $50-80 more overall (if i get 4gb, or $20-30 less if i get 2gb at a time). This is the link for the ram. Info on chips it uses, overclockability and compatibility with a SLI-DR would be greatly appreciated. Please don't make comments such as "get AM2" because that is unreasonable and outside my current budget. In a year or so, yes, I'll do that (or when it's necessary). For now 2gb (and in a month's time) 4gb will do... Cheers guys
  15. I believe there is an SLI Patch, that will let you run SLI on a crossfire board - if you're interested. You should be able to get it HERE. Ups the potential of the crossfire boards, in my mind . Course its not QUITE as good, but the difference is pretty marginal . Dunno about quad-sli. Just thought I'd mention it. And to reinforce the answers to your question, X1900XTX/X1900 series work fine on nVidia based boards - just don't expect to run crossfire .
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