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About Berix

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  1. Um.. Can we go back to my topic please? Well, I'm not sure I'll have the time to tweak everything if it's going to take weeks to do it. Are all nForce4 boards like this?
  2. Thanks for the suggestion, Protagonist. Is it hard to get the Ultra-D stable? Can a beginner get the board stable? Is it possible in all circumstances to get it stable, and what level of skill is required to do so? Is the design of the nForce4 chipset and the Ultra-D just makes it unstable no matter what is done?
  3. After reading some posts on this forum, I'm not so sure about using the DFI LANParty anymore. Again, my most important priorities are that the system MUST be stable; I don't mind having to do some tweaking to achieve stability, but I really don't want stability and problems to drag out. I've spent nearly seven years with this old Compaq and don't want to have to deal with unstability and problems for the next seven years, you get tired of these things after a while. Since I don't plan to OC, and want things to be stable, would I be happier with an Intel board? But I do plan to do gaming about 40% of the time (40% websuring, 20% office work) and speed is still important would the nForce4 still be better? I WAS going to order all the parts tomarrow, so I wish I brought up this question sooner, I guess maybe I should postpone the build day until I know for sure which board I want.
  4. That's actually an Enermax Whisper II 2.0 535W. Sorry for the mistake, the model numbers for both of them consisted of EGxxxP-VE so I assumed that they were both Noisetakers. Anyway, how does this model look? I'll look into this one. Yup, this is my first time; been planning this build for several months. I'll be using the stock HS/F that comes with the retail version of the AMD Athlon 64. Some money may show up in my budget since I may pick a monitor that doesn't cost all $400, so some of the left-over money may go to an after-market HS/F since I do plan some mild overclocking. But I'm not going to skimp on the monitor, which I'll be seeing everyday. This motherboard will shut down by itself if it overheats, right? I've never built a computer before so what looks properly installed to me may not actually be. Just for clarification, this means NOT to reboot when the flashing utility prompts me to do so, and just shut it off with the power button? One more question: 1) I plan to install new drivers from a USB key before connecting the comp to the internet. All the motherboard needs are the nVidia nForce Drivers from the DFI website, right? I'm not going to install nTune, ActiveArmor or the Realtec drivers unless I find I need them int he future.
  5. I have a couple more questions. I keep forgetting to ask these; I finally decided to write them down as I remembered to ask them. 1) When securing components, should I use the screws that come with the component or the screws that come with the case? For example, when installing the hard drive, if the hard drive comes with screws to mount it but the case maker also includes screws to mount the HD, which screws should I use? Same question applies for FDD, optical drives, motherboard, and anything else that may apply. 2) When should I first start the computer? Should I do it after I install all the basic stuff (mobo, video card, CPU, and RAM); or should I install everything into the case before I first boot the system? I've found a lot of conflicting advise over when to first start it. I'm guessing that it doesn't matter and you can just do it when the basics are in, but does it matter? 3) When the system first boots, should the CPU and chipset fans immediately start spinning? If they don't start spinning immediately should I be alarmed and pull the plug as fast as I can? 4) How do you shut down the computer without Windows? I think it's the power button, but would that do any damage? 5) After flashing the BIOS, should I reboot the computer and then shut it off and clear the CMOS; or should I just shut it off without rebooting and clear the CMOS? Which way is better? Thanks for any answers. Also, I'll be changing the PSU to the Enermax Noisetaker 535W. It only costs a buck more over the 485W from my local computer store. Antec TriCool 120mm http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetai...ductCode=370030
  6. I'll change the RAM to OCZ Gold Series 1GB with BH-5 chips. I'm not, "looking to do high high overclocks," so I'll stay with the AMD Athlon 64 3000+. And should I still get a front case fan and is the Enermax Noisetaker VE 485W good? I'll be ordering these parts next Thursday (a week from today on June 23rd.) So one more question: how often do major problems occur during builds (so I know what to expect)?
  7. I'm about to build a new computer, and will probably be ordering the parts in 1.5 weeks. Below are the parts that I am currently planning to use and would appreciate any advice and suggestions on my parts. I have a budget of $1800 INCLUDING everything: monitor, keyboard, mouse, speakers, everything in the box; as well as California sales tax if applicable (8.75%) and shipping charges to San Francisco (ZIP code 94011). I plan to use this system mainly for gaming, office work, and web surfing. I'm probably not going to do any major overclocking, but may overclock a little. Right now, my priorities are a stable system that'll work; get the most for my money; and won't give my many problems long-term, I'm fine if problems appear during the first few weeks but I don't want to deal with problems (unless they're minor) over the four years I plan to be keeping this system. All the prices listed below for my parts include sales tax if any and shipping charges. Case: Antec SLK3000B -$64.71 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16811129152 ****Power Supply: Enermax Noisetaker VE 485W -$108.98 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16817103457 Motherboard: DFI LANParty uT nF4 Ultra-D -151.54 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product?item=13-136-152&depa=0 CPU: AMD Athlon 64 "Venice" 3000+ Retail -$173.00 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16819103537 *RAM: OCZ Value Winbondl DDR400 1GB (512MB x 2) -$120.70 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16820227213 **Graphics Card: eVGA.com nVidia GeForce 6600GT 128MB -$190.62 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16814130214 Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 7200.7 160GB NCQ SATA -$105.98 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16822148034 Optical Drive: Lite-On SOHW-1693S DVD+/-RW -$56.91 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16827106989 Floppy Drive: Sony MPF920 Black 1.44MB Floppy Drive -$13.31 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16821103116 Speakers: Creative SBS 330 2.1 Speakers -$35.38 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16836116161 ***Front Case Fan: Antec TriCool 120mm -$20.61 http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetai...ductCode=370030 OS: Microsoft Windows XP Pro OEM -$151.84 Office Suite: Microsoft Office Student & Teacher Ed. 2003 -$162.74 Keyboard: Undecided Mouse: Undecided LCD Monitor: Undecided - I've set aside $420 for the monitor. *For the memory I'll be using the OCZ Value Winbond Series (made from unbinned Winbond BH-5 UTT chips) of RAM, RyderOCZ tells me that this should work well with the DFI LANParty. But I may be able to get the OCZ Gold Series with BH-5 chips, I think they are the same chips as the Value Winbond except it has a heatspreader and the BH-5 modules are binned and tested. But I heard that with an AMD64 3000+/3200+ CPU, RAM with TCCD/TCC5 chips are better, so any comments on that or suggestions? **I've ordered from eVGA before and have been very satisfied with their products, but are there any brands that are better? ***Is a front case fan necessary? Will the PSU fan and rear 120mm fan be enough? ****How's the Enermax Noisetaker VE series? The two choices I've really been picking from was the Enermax Noisetaker VE 485W and the Fortron Source AX-500; I chose the Noisetaker because it has bigger 12v rails. I greatly appreciate any suggestions so that I can get the best build.
  8. I asked (via email) an OCZ rep for his suggestions, and he says that he, "would recommend part number OCZ4001024WV3DC-K. This is our "Value" Product with Winbond BH based chips....they should run very well with your combo [...]." I believe that they're overclockable to 2-2-2-5 timings.
  9. So I see recommendations for the Crucial Ballistix and Mushkin XP3200. Are there any other recommendations. Thanks for any help.
  10. I guess that's a good point. I'll move some stuff around in my budget so that I can get some better RAM. I really don't want to be one of the people who have problems with RAM. I made a signature before I posted, but for some reason it isn't showing. Here it is: Planned Buld (in late June): Antec SLK3000-B Midtower Enermax Noisetaker VE 485W DFI LANParty uT nF4 Ultra-D AMD Athlon 64 3000+ "Venice" eVGA nVidia GeForce 6600GT 128MB Seagate Barracuda 7200.7 NCQ 160GB SATA Lite-On SOHW-1693S DVD+/-RW Drive MS Windows XP Pro - OEM Sony MPF920 Black 1.44in Floppy Creative SBS 330 2.1 Speakers MS Office Student & Teacher Ed. 2003 UNDECIDED on MEMORY UNDECIDED on MONITOR My budget is $1600 not including tax and shipping; but the $1600 does include everything else: monitor, keyboard, mice, speakers, OS, office suite, everything in the box, and any necessary wires or tools. So back to the subject of RAM, Crucial Ballistix the best one to use for my budget? I can modify and change stuff around in what I have to make the everything work.
  11. Crucial Ballistix is cheap? It's something like $200 for a gig. And it comes with 2-2-2-5 timings (which sound way over the top.) Is the expensive RAM necessary for a stable system in a LANParty nF4? So something in the middle won't do? I can't find a lot of RAM that's in the middle, anyway; not value but not performance. Any comment on the OCZ Value? There are two people on Newegg's reviews with nF4 Ultra-D boards that seem to be happy with the RAM, although I know that only two satisfied people doesn't mean that it'll necessarily work.
  12. I've been searching this forum for a while now and I cannot find the answer to this, so I will ask it here. What's the most inexpensive RAM that you can put into a nF4 Ultra-D that'll work, and run stable at stock settings? I've looked over many topics and it seems like that only the expensive RAMs (OCZ Gold, Platinum, etc.) will work. So I'm wondering that's the most inexpensive one that will bring stable performance (overclocking and all that other stuff aside)?
  13. I'm going to change the RAM. So should I change my process to: -Press key to reboot -Once it's finished booting and POSTing, press the POWER button or unplug the machine to turn it off -Clear CMOS And another question that comes up: DFI's intructions in their manual (which I downloaded off their website) don't say to remove the battery to clear CMOS. So is removing the battery necessary to clear the CMOS? I don't have a router right now. I'm going to install Trend Micro PC-Cillin and its software firewall before I connect.
  14. Can someone PLEASE answer my questions?
  15. Hi everyone, I have some questions about what to do after I've finished assembling the components. I plan to build with a DFI LANParty uT nF4 Ultra-D, AMD Athlon 64 3200+ "Venice," Corsair ValueSelect (2x512MB) Dual Channel Kit, and an Enermax Noisetaker 485W PSU. 1) When should I flash the BIOS? Should I do it after I install Windows, immediately after first booting the system; when's the best time to do the BIOS flash? 2) How am I suppose to shut down the system after flashing the BIOS? Should I press the power button, unplug it? 3) If my BIOS flash fails, what do I do? I've looked around for this answer and can't seem to find anything specific enough on what to do should the flash fail. 4) For getting an internet connection, can I just plug the computer into the DSL modem or do I need to install all the software that came with the SBC Yahoo CD-ROM? 5) Here's how I'm going to flash the BIOS, is this correct? -On my old (Windows 98) computer make a bootable floopy disk -Place awdflash.exe and the bios .bin into the floppy -Insert floppy into new build and boot -When in DOS type in awdflash and press "enter" to enter flashing utility -Backup current BIOS -Remove floppy, go back to old Windows 98 machine and copy the original BIOS onto Win98 machine -Go back to new build, insert floppy and boot -Again, enter awdflash -Flash BIOS -Turn off computer (However it's done) -Clear CMOS by removing battery and changing jumpers for 60 seconds -Return battery and jumper -Start system -Enter BIOS and select to load "Optimal Settings" 6) How long should the flash process be?
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