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crafty

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About crafty

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  1. I received my VX back from OCZ yesterday and I had a similar problem.. Both sticks would work alone @ 250mhz 2-2-2-5, but they would not boot in dual channel no matter what. The funny thing is that they would both boot in combination with ANY other stick of RAM in either 1+3, 3+1, 2+4, 4+2, but they would not boot together... Anyways, I got the RMA back and these boot in dual channel
  2. I don't think that your decision to take the FX-55 over a 4000+ San Diego is wise (You're wasting a lot of money for a very very marginal difference). 200mhz difference, not to mention they overclock nearly the same. It's your build though - have fun.
  3. 618 didn't help my general boot problem, but my memory sticks may have been damaged.
  4. Will it work? Yes Is it a good build for gaming? No. You're skimping a *lot* on your graphics card and PSU in favor of an obscenely expensive processor. You're bottleneck will be at the one place where you need the most power: Your graphics card. If you're on a budget, scrap the FX-55. A 3700+ or 4000+ San Diego will work nearly as well at less than half the price. Not to mention that they will probably overclock similarly and are on a more efficient process (hypothetically less heat & power consumption). I can't speak for that particular memory, but you shouldn't be worried about a specific users' problem. Worry more about trends of problems (like recent OCZ VX memory + Lanparty boot issues). Most memory problems can be resolved by tweaking settings. I will now analyze each of your components individually : Motherboard: Good choice. You may want to consider an NF4 Lanparty with PCI-e interface for upgradability. Up to you. Processor: See above, I recommend 3700+ or 4000+ San Diego Core. Memory: Up to you. I don't know these particular modules, but you can't go wrong with OCZ. In addition, if they don't overclock well (which I assume they will), you can run dividers on an A64 system which will barely hit your performance (I.e. overclock processor but not memory). Heatsink: Good choice Fan: Sure, why not Power Supply: BZZT! Get a name brand, man! Don't skimp on a generic PSU. Here is a decent PSU buying guide. I would suggest an OCZ model. If you're looking at price, the PSU I have is a great deal (Fortron Blue Storm 500w), but you won't have a lot of upgradability with it. Graphics Card: For a gaming system, you need something better performing than a vanilla 6800. For the price ranges off the top of my head: Just my 2 cents...
  5. Either would be sufficient, but one thing you obviously need to note is that the first comes with a PSU, while the second does not. With enough fans (in the correct places), both should run at the same temperature. A few things to note though: If you plan on running an SLI rig, you should get a case w/o a PSU and buy a high quality (OCZ!) PSU separately. This is also something to consider if you plan on upgrading to the new generation of graphics cards when they come out, and you have an already power-hungry rig (like a 3500+ or greater processor, and multiple HDDs). If you're not planning on upgrading soon and you aren't doing SLI, get the Antec - It's a decent PSU and a good price.
  6. Question: Why would they put a floppy power connecter as one of 4 that supposedly need to be plugged in? What if you have a floppy drive? My PSU has only one connector, and when I flash I have to pull that cable from the mobo. If it affects my stability it does it at the absolute worst time possible =/
  7. on my 3000+ Winnie the difference between the thermal pad and AS5 was about 5 deg under load. Make sure you apply the AS5 correctly though - use the instructions on their website.
  8. if it is a repeating long single beep, it's a DRAM error. Try putting one stick in the orange slot furthest from CPU. If that stick doesn't work, try your other stick in that same slot.
  9. I'm glad to hear your success story, but don't post it in this thread. I already have $270 worth of RAM. My goal is to get this set working, not throw it away and buy new. If I could trade my VX for Platinum EL4200 I would.
  10. Your windows problem sounds like a corrupt installation. If you have fooled around in Windows while experimenting with overclocking, that can happen. I would try to format and reinstall everything (at default clocks).
  11. Thanks I'll give those settings all a try when I get home from work. Unfortunately one or both of my sticks may be damaged. I have no idea how to pinpoint that though - they both run flawlessly by themselves =/
  12. pershoot, I know this is out of place but your PM inbox is full. Could you please put the 6/18 BIOSes on a bootable cd-rom for me? They are linked here: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showpost.p...250&postcount=4 If you could I would really appreciate it, as I am without a floppy drive right now. My e-mail is brent (at) woodle (dot) org. Thanks! P.S. You may not want to make the iso public because it is beta, but that's up to you.
  13. Edit: Wow my IE is being buggy, when I clicked the thread earlier I only saw up to the second reply... so I missed 5-6 including Oskar Wu's. ignore this.
  14. At the risk of angering those higher up... We need a thread to discuss updates to the cold boot issue. I'm not interested in getting in a . contest with a moderator, but closing a thread with an unresolved problem is irresponsible. Thick skin ftw. If you have the cold boot issue, e-mail [email protected] and describe your problem. IF/WHEN they respond, post here and let us know. To all those new to the cold boot issue: There is no definite solution, although at least one XS member said the 6/15 BIOS fixed their issue (It didn't work for me).
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