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Hymack

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About Hymack

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  1. Taking out the HD's was more of a shot in the dark. I'm going to strip down my rig leaving only 1 stick of ram, vidcard and cpu or course. Everything else will be unplugged and I'll start to figure things out. Is there a key sequence that bypasses the DFI splash screen?
  2. Yeah, I'm aware my BIOS is old. I've had that update on my to-do list for a while but I've been busy with school and labs and such. I will follow those bios instructions later this afternoon to see if it will help but leave it on clear for 10 minutes this time instead of 30 seconds like before. Earlier this morning before heading to school I unplugged both SATA cables from both my HD's to see if it would help anything but nothing changed. Without any HD's connected I should at least be able to get past the bios load and see all my hardware detecting shouldn't I? Thanks for the help
  3. So i've been running my rig [w/o overclocking yet] for a few months now without any issues. Two nights ago I noticed my computer was starting to get a little chuggy so I checked Task Manager and noticed VSMON.exe [ZoneAlarm process] taking up around 400MB or memory. I had Azureus running and had it going for about a week straight so I thought I would just restart and it would clear things up. Upon restarting my computer it stalls at the DFI logo screen and I can't even get far enough in the boot process to get into the BIOS. There is 1 red LED lit which I'm pretty sure corresponds to the VGA card. I have not been overclocking my vidcard either so far. I'm going to start going through the whole troubleshooting process tonight and my friend may bring over his 7800GT PCI-E card to see if its just that issue. Other than swapping the vidcard, what obvious thing am I missing? I'm basically going to strip my rig down to the bare minimum and start from there. I hope the MB isn't pooched, but its way too early to assume that. I tried clearing the BIOS by shutting down, pulling the plug, pulling the battery and moving the clear CMOS jumper for 30 seconds...then reversing all that and rebooted with it still freezing on the logo screen.
  4. [EDIT] woops, had too many threads open at the same time...
  5. Have you tried to get it running stable using only 2 sticks instead of 4? You really want to try to eliminate all possible causes. I don't doubt that the sticks may be OK, I just think it would be worth a shot. You may also want to change to a newer bios, I can't remember if the 3/10 supports Venice properly or not.
  6. The one floppy connector is also a problem I had. I would have also preferred the modular connections on the other side, but that is a preference I have to aid in hiding the cables. GREAT PSU though, would definitely recommend to anyone.
  7. My Maxtor 10 drive has not given me any problems yet. The Seagate I have is also great and quieter too.
  8. I stumbled upon this review for the Corsair Cool watercooling kit. The reviewer was using the Ultra-D motherboard. NOTE: They put their videocard in the lower slot! I think they could have just rotated the chipset cooler 90 degrees and then they probably could have used the upper videocard slot. Thoughts? Review...
  9. I love my drive :nod: Its the same one! Perhaps as another option you should check the price of a Maxtor10 250GB SATA drive? It's usually not much more expensive than the seagate, but has a 16 MB buffer instead of 8MB. Some people on this board have had problems with the Maxtor10/MaxlineIII line of drives, but mine is working fine since day 1.
  10. I'm pretty sure that you cannot get 16X on the bottom slot either way. You don't have to pencil mod it unless you want SLI. Even in that case, I think the bottom slot is maxed out at 8X, but I am not 100% certain. Your card would not saturate the 8X bus anyways.
  11. In this case it would not really affect your chipset temps since it would be exhausting the cooler air that your video cooler uses as its intake. It would by much more worth your $$ to buy a VGA cooler, like the arctic series.
  12. Well, perhaps you could find out or measure the height of the gap between the MB and the bottom of the video card, then decide. I think that i read somewhere that they used the Iceberq4 and just used a dremel to grind a bit out of the top plate above the fan blades and this gave them enough clearance. By the way, if it hasn't been mentioned in this thread yet, if your current video card fan blows toward the chipset (which i would guess does for the x800series) then you can try replacing the heatsink+fan on that as well to lower your temps.
  13. woops, i read the wrong part of the page...its not 6mm, the RAM heatsinks that are 6mm. Here are the specs for the Iceberq4 Model: CCB-A4P Voltage: DC 12V Fan Dimension: 45X45X10 mm Power: 1.98 W Fan Speed: 5500 R.P.M Airflow: 8.6 CFM Fan Bearing: Ball Bearing Weight: 87 gm Cooler Dimension: 88X65X15 mm Heat Sink Material: Copper Heat sink Dimension: 20X20X6 mm (4 pcs) Thermal Tape: 18X18 mm (4 pcs)
  14. the vantec is 6mm high...as per this webpage (the Vantec Iceberq and Iceberq4) NOTE: the Iceberq4 pushes more air than the regular one. ADPmods (canada) I've bought lots of stuff from this website, GREAT customer service!
  15. smids hit it right on the nose. They are designed to be compatible with older 20 pin motherboards, increasing sales (theoretically). I have the OCZ Modstream 520 which uses this type of connector and have had no problems with my board yet.
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