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JfRsQ

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  1. I thought this thread was a sticky before, but I could be wrong ?
  2. Water or air, it doesn't make much a difference that at the lower voltage and frequency, you won't see a huge increase in temp. Heating is occurring when you are trying to push your CPU past a certain frequency and voltage. aircooled result with the boxed cooler: 2500Mhz = 1.43V idle:32 load:49 2750Mhz = 1.43V idle:32 load:50 2950 = 1.55V idle: ~40 load: ~60
  3. Your Vcore is @1.16V :confused:
  4. Read: 7063MB/s Write: 2781MB/s Latency 35.7ns Everest v2.01.347 OCZ VXPC4000 @ 500Mhz 2-2-2-7-2-7-15-2-2-2-2-3120-2-Bank Interleave Enabled
  5. Did you drop your LDT multiplier to 3 ? Didn't look at everything, are you running your ram on a divider to take it out of the possible problem.
  6. First thing, you should put your system config in a sig so it will be easier for ppl to know what we are dealing with.
  7. I'm satisfied with my 1GB of OCZ ddr500 Mhz VX. Now if only they could work in synch with my HTT of 300Mhz instead of using the asynch 5/6 dividers. I do agree tho that for gaming today, you are better with 1GB of Value memory than 512MB of good mem. ^^And this statement is absolutely not logical. It must be a typo. CPU speed is more important than RAM speed, but if CPU speed is the same, there is no way it performs better with slower memory, unless he forgot to say about ram timings. But with the same timings... no way :shake:
  8. Your temp seems really fine with the heatsink you are currently using. You won't see huge increase in temp for a mild overclock or a small voltage increase. Temp will skyrocket and exponentially increase and it will become harder to overclock. somewhere in the 2750 to 3000Mhz, you will probably find that you will need a small or huge voltage boost to try to stabilize your overclock and the temp will begin to raise more. To give you an exemple of mine of what I need for stability 2850Mhz = 1.40V (default) idle:26C load:33C 2950 = 1.5V 2975 = 1.54V idle: 28C load 38C 3010 = 1.7V idle: 32C load: 42C
  9. hmmmmmmm, everything seems to read OK, except this 12V rail that is reading +0.30/+0.35V in MBM5. Any possible way to customize this easily? *update* nevermind, I got it working by changing by changing a line code in the voltage.ini file. I changed this : Both ITE and MBM are now reading the same 12V rail
  10. I had the same problem before while using a Logitech MX510 mouse + mouseware on my Abit NF7-S. I also had this problem using the same mouse on my DFI LP NF4 Ultra-D. Both time, it was happening each time I was using the mousewheel. USB or with a USB to PS2 adaptor. I don't remember much, but I think the mouse software was the cause of this problem. Anyway , now Im using a MX518 with the newer Setpoint s/w and this insane chirping sound is finally gone of my speakers and headphones
  11. MBM5NVdriver_3.zip working great for me MSI NX6600GT-TD128E with Forceware 77.72
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