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SnooP

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  1. PSU review sites such as xbitlabs and silentpcreview show that Antec PSU's are rated for the claimed 50degC temperature. For example extremeoverclocking psu test results: http://www.extremeoverclocking.com/article..._Testing_5.html That said Antec has made quite a few blunders, in particular the NEO HE saga.... Definately applies to generic psu's, but any decent brand is rated for continuous full wattage (ie 24/7). Again look at above extremeoverclocking link for examples, or even tomshardware psu stress test they did a while back. Back to topic: I've found that my system ran fully stable @ max overclock on a antec sp2 350w (24pin native, of course!) + extra load resisters, with stable voltages (12V was a little high, but well within atx spec). 12V rail specs, brand, and suitable cross load regulation are far more importent than wattage ratings, from a technical perspective. The ruling made sense when the board was released (most < 450w psu's had small 12V rails), however now that psu's with large 12V rails are the norm just about (eg enermax liberty 400w - 30A combined 12V rails), imo the practical value of the policy has diminished considerably. Of course DFI makes the rulings, not me....
  2. SnooP

    Backup PSU recommendation

    I'd go the antec sp2.0 500w due to higher 12V capacity. The skyhawk only has 300w or 25A combined 12V amps (about 90% of the load is on this rail, 10% on the rest), which is a bit poor considering the wattage rating. Not bad if you can get one for say $50, but not $78. http://www.gruntville.com/reviews/PSUs/sky...e_570/page2.php
  3. Slight corrections: Hard drives only draw 2A (peak) off the 12V rail when they spin up at startup, rapidly reducing to around 300-500mA once they have spun up even while being read/written. Since graphics card isn't doing much while hard drives spin up, 0.5A/500mA is a better value to use since thats roughly the 12V rail draw of a hard drive while gaming. Also psu's are rated (well a good brand anyway - generics aren't really rated to run anything ) based on dc output wattage (each rail/total - does not include psu heat losses), not input wattage (which would included heat losses in psu). That way inefficient psu's (ones that waste a lot of heat), don't look better 'on paper' specs wise (since if psu ratings included psu heat losses, the less efficient psu would have a higher wattage rating or rail spec etc than a similar, but more efficient psu). Also going off the extremeoverclocking site, voltage regulation of the antec sp2 500w is very good (within 3% even at full load). Otherwise good analysis Shogo Excellent to see people actually thinking about the current psu's issues about rather than the usual 'grab a 600w+ psu you'll need it' suggestions with no regard to brand/12V specs etc. IMO an antec sp2 500w is good enough (unlike vast majority of other sub $80 psu's) for the system, though if your not sure you can always spend a bit more on the A-LIST enermax 535w FMA ($80ish). Also davidhammock200 gives it a 'best bang for buck' and suggests its good enough for 'high end to limited SLI' http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/show...3&postcount=197
  4. the antec sp2 500w has easily enough power for one x1900xt, extremeoverclocking loaded both rails to 18A each and it holded steady . Besides unless your trying to draw more than 20A off one of them its effectively one 12V rail - I measured one up with a multimeter (temperarily in my hands while making a mates computer) and got a short between 12V2 (atx12v 4 pin) and 12V1 (random molex connector). Thats why you can (sort of) add the rails to together when checking if a psu is good enough (I say sort of, as the ratings don't always quite add up, and you've got the additional restriction of no more than 20A on either rail regardless of total 12V capacity) linky: http://www.extremeoverclocking.com/article..._Testing_5.html
  5. Thats what i meant, but i skipped a step Yes Its there to provide atx 12V 2.0 compliance, of which is there for UL safety certification. Going off the eps12V info (atx12V provides very little info), i'd doubt theres a seperate voltage regulator. Anyways no big deal http://ssiforum.org/Power%20Supplies/EPS12...Spec%202_91.pdf "System designs may require user access to energized areas of the system. In these cases the power supply may be required to meet regulatory 240VA energy limits for any power rail. Since the +12V rail combined power exceeds 240VA it must be divided into separate channels to meet this requirement. Each separate rail needs to be limited to less than 20A for each +12V rail. The separate +12V rails do not necessarily need to be independently regulated outputs. They can share a common power conversion stage."
  6. The difference would be as follows: 2 rail setup: common power conversion stage (voltage regulator / filters), then finally split into to two rails both current limited to 20A. In essense this gives 3 limitations, the total 12V amperage (35A afaik), 20A max on 12V1, and 20A max on 12V2. If either of the 20A current limiters is set off, psu shuts down intentionally (regardless of whether total 12V amperage of 35A is met or not). single rail setup: no 20A current limiters, just one 12V rail. Since your not getting near 20A with one 7800gt (need at least 7800gtx 512mb SLI to get close), either setting will work fine (dual rail switch is there for to satisfy EU/UL regulation). Other than that tagan make quality psu's, and are generally recommended. One of my mates had one of those, and there a POS. lasted a couple of months running a basic athlon xp 3200+ before it died, the replacement is holding up ok so far. Avoid MGE/XG altogether though. Also the main power connector is only 20pin, not 24pin like the xpert wants. Try an enermax FMA 535w instead, its cheaper and far more reliable.
  7. Quoted the wrong post?, i was referring to the thermaltake tr2 430w in that post, which only has an 18A 12V rail, and not > 480w.
  8. SnooP

    PSU Brands to Avoid!

    Excellent work as usual davidhammock200 :nod: :nod: I'll suggest a few more to add: Omni Youngyear Ritmo Shaw
  9. Yeah pretty much, the modstream has very poor cross load regulation, so won't work in heavy systems. Works fine in single videocard systems. see http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/other/dis...atx-psu_11.html compared to the near perfect cross load regulation of ocz powerstream, so no issues in having higher 12V loads but not much 5V/3.3V load (typical of SLI): http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/other/dis...ful-psu_11.html
  10. Got 3ghz on latest official (6/23), so works very well here, but theres no 'best' bios, but I'd generally recommend the official since it runs well and fast for most users, and no issues associated with beta bios's (damage cuased by beta bios not covered under warrenty etc)
  11. Definately the Hyper over the Aspire (Aspire is a generic brand of poor quality). With a 29A 12V rail, the hyper 480w will easily handle that system and future upgrades The motherboard! There's 5 headers to plug fans into, three are temperature controlled (adjustable in bios). From my own experience PSU makes little difference in overclockability (unless its a really bad unit) the motherboard has a far bigger impact (and good choice with DFI ). Any of the recommend PSU's on page 1 should easily handle that system. Antec smartpower 2.0 500w - modular and cheapish.
  12. SnooP

    Bios Update with Winflash

    That's strange. DFi.com.tw suggests using it as an option. Granted your winxp install should be 100% stable, but otherwise not sure where the problem is. http://www.dfi.com.tw/Support/Download/bio..._FLAG=A&SITE=US
  13. He's Back!! Hope i did an ok job helping manage the fort while you were gone
  14. All 3 will do fine, though the ocz powerstream 520w model is cheaper and will easily handle that system. Same deal with the enermax liberty (500w model more than capable).
  15. NO!!! despite 'claiming' to be a 500w unit, its been proven many times that generic brands, such as Aspire often have issues powering systems a light 300w Antec or Tagan can run without issue. Also they tend to be noisy, and often have short lifespans (personally I had an MGE psu die after only a years use, took out cpu with it to). So best to stick with the brand names for reliablity. See page 1 for suggested PSU's. Any of the enermax/Tagan/Antec units will do fine for your system, assuming they're all 24 pin native. However I'd only recommend the 480w Enermax since any PSU less than 480w is unsupported by DFI (regardless).
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