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About VideoFool

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  1. Yes, offtrack now. Apologies. I just had to file a small slot on the fan to take some pressure off the Karajan module. I agree, it wasn't critical and I probably could've gotten by without doing it. However, my Karajan module was pushing just a bit on a nearby capacitor, and wanted to minimize the chance of the module pusing any further on the cap over time due to fan vibration. It was just tight enough that I wanted to do something about it.
  2. I bought the Antec P160 recently. It's all aluminum. I saw it on sale advertised on ben's bargains in the last week for about $80 after rebate. Otherwise it's about $120. I had to mod the 120mm rear exhause fan slightly to fit the NF4 ulta board -- the nasty Karajan audio module sticks up a bit high. There's another thread somewhere that discusses this. I also had a faulty power panel -- the power button kept getting stuck, but Antec will replace it for free. If I had to start over again, I might try the Lian-Li 65b case that A_G suggested. The P160 wasn't quite as great as I'd hoped. VideoFool
  3. Rgone, OK. But officialness at least gives us the hope that our computers will crash with less frequency than what Windows causes them to do already I think we're all willing to be test pilots as long as we know our work will result in a more stable bios down the road and we have a way to see current problems with the beta. AG himself said he hates the (official) 310 bios. That is enough to make me strongly consider one of the betas. So, I guess what I'm saying is that it would be nice to see a list of any current issues with the betas so we can make an informed decision about installing it in our rigs while we wait in patience for Officialness. If we wanted complete stability, I guess we'd all buy a Dell or (gasp) a Mac. Hope I don't flamed for that Thx. Videofool.
  4. Thanks all. Great responses. For now, I just have my chipset fan and CPU fan plugged into the mb. The rest are powered directly from the psu. I'll give that a run for a while until I can get a fan controller to play with. However, I like the idea of the mb controlling the speed of the fan for the CPU based on core temps. That way I don't have to worry about kids using the computer for something when I'm not around. I can just see me telling them, "Don't forget to turn up the fan on the computer when you're playing games!" Oh well. Maybe time for two computers in the house Videofool
  5. I've been reading through some threads on powering cooling fans from the mb. It sounds like most are only using the MB for RPM monitoring. Am I stupid to try to run 2 or 3 low rpm fans from the mb? :confused: Right now I have a 120mm Vantec Stealth @ 1500 rpm, and a 92mm Vantec Stealth at about 1700rpm. There are so many fan connectors on the board, that I would think it would be designed to handle them. If they're all under, say 5w total draw, is this safe? Just wondering if ANYONE is using the onboard power connectors for their fans. If not, anyone have a good source for a bunch of cheap (hackable) molex connectors and/or a fan controller? Thanks. Videofool
  6. Pulse Width Modulation, maybe? http://www.netrino.com/Publications/Glossary/PWM.html
  7. I've received all the parts for a new build from NewEgg. Sig has the details. I've done my best to read through all the threads to pick out parts that would work well for me, but now I'm getting 2nd thoughts about the RAM I picked out. I picked up OCZ4001024ELDCGE-K from NewEgg. It's "OCZ EL DDR PC-3200 / 400MHz / Gold Edition / Dual Channel" -- 2 x 512MB. I found a thread where I thought AG recommended this, but a note on the OCZ site said the Gold OCZ was designed for Intel chips more than AMD. I don't have any great plans to overclock unless it turns out to be a lot of fun . Would just like to have decent memory that doesn't need active cooling at about a cost $160, which is what I paid. Did I miss the mark? Before I open the package, I thought I'd ask some advice. Can I get decent performance out of this RAM without active cooling? Any recommended voltage settings or BIOS settings on my NF4 board just to get started? I assume I install in the yellow slots because these like higher voltages? I'm not opposed to RMAing and getting different RAM, but don't particularly want to spend a bunch more. Would just like to have a successful build. Thanks. VideoFool
  8. Hi, all. I spent the a lot of the last weekend reading through the forum posts here to figure out the best parts to get for a new build. I was hoping I could get some comments on my proposed component list below. I'm trying to keep costs down without sacrificing stability or gobs of speed. I'm not an OC'er, but don't want to be stupid about getting flaky parts. The box will be used primarily for video and photo editing. Everything else is secondary (including games). Cost is an issue, but don't want to be cheap about getting things that won't last. Here's what I'm looking at: Board: DFI Lanparty NF4 UltraD RAM: (2x512) TwinMOS 512MB 184-Pin DDR 400 or (2x 512) OCZ Performance 512MB DDR 400 CPU: Retail AMD 64 3000 Venice with stock HSF (using Arctic Silver 5) Sound: onboard Power: Skyhawk 570W POWERONE SERIES ATX-GM570PC Case: Undecided. Want a non-flashy mid tower. Antec maybe? Advice welcome. cd/DVD: Either NEC 3520a oem (or my current HP DVD200i to cut costs) Video: GIGABYTE GV-NX66128DP Geforce 6600 128MB PCI-Express x16 LCD: Dell 1905 19" LCD Seagate ST380013AS 80GB drive (yes -- I'll need more storage later) Mostly I'm looking for comments like, "Stay away from that. It's flaky on the NF4." Suggestions for modest improvements also appreciated. I haven't bought anything yet except the Dell LCD. Thanks!!!!!! VideoFool
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