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Nate Finch

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About Nate Finch

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  1. I've already swapped out the video card with another one and had the exact same problem with both (and I know the other card worked just fine before, and wasn't in the computer when my watercooling leaked). It's a 24 pin connector. It's also one of the ones that is listed as "recommended" for the motherboard.... hmm... wait, looks like it's recommended for non-SLI non-expert... does that mean the expert needs a better PSU? I grabbed this one for my previous SLI-DR because it was recommended, I had seen a lot of positive reviews, and it wasn't outrageously expensive. The Enermax I have does only have the 4 pin extra motherboard power connector, as opposed to the 8 pin the board can support, but the manual indicated that's ok if you're not running SLI (which I'm not). -Nate
  2. So I got a new motherboard (the Expert), because I was pretty sure the old one was screwed, since it stopped working (with two LEDs) only after the leak incident. So, I install the new one (not a quick process), it boots into the bios, I turn off the logo so I can see what's going by, then save and reset, it boots into windows just fine. Awesome. Problem fixed, right? Except then it crashed to a black screen. Reset.... Same two LEDs! Arg! What the heck is going on? I've replaced the RAM and the motherboard.... maybe I should replace the PSU too? Or what? I don't understand... I'm so frustrated.... Any help would be much appreciated. Update - I switched the RAM from the orange slots to the yellow, that allowed it to at least get into the bios, but now it freezes right when it starts windows (and after the first time, say it failed to start, do you want to start in safe mode, blah blah). *sigh* Well, it's getting into the bios at least. I probably should have thought to try the other slots in the old board, maybe there was nothing wrong with it. Anyway... suggestions very much appreciated.
  3. it was a tiny leak, evidently just enough to put like a tablespoon of water on the bottom of my case and short out my old RAM. Motherboard is thoroughly dried. I tried clearing the CMOS using the jumper and got it to boot, went into BIOS, change some things, reboot.... back to where I started, won't post. Didn't have a lot of time to try a lot of stuff last night, but it's nice to see it getting into the bios finally. -Nate
  4. [Please note edit... it's actually 2 LEDs on boot] Watercooling leaked, wouldn't boot, stopped at 3 LEDs, book says that means can't detect RAM. Smell ram, yup, smells burnt (there was some water on the RAM). Replace RAM, down to 2 LEDs... book indicates means it can't detect VGA.... switch out VGA, same problem (couldn't have been any water on the video card since it was physically above anything with the pater Is it time to get a new motherboard, or is there something else I can do? -Nate
  5. Reinvented, not sure what you're talking about wit hthe Redlines... they're from May of last year... not sure what chips they have in them. Sounds like I should stick with what I have, though. Thanks for the recommendations -Nate
  6. I'm not 100% clear on the changes from the SLI-DR version of the mobo to the Expert version. Is it worth upgrading? My rig is in my sig. I'm having trouble pushing it any further, which makes me sad, given that I gained almost nothing from installing watercooling (lowered temps by about 10 degrees, but didn't gain much in MHz). Suggestions welcome. -Nate
  7. @#%#%@@!!! OK, wtf? I decided to try out 240x12 with the orange slots... no dice, won't even post! So I reload the saved 260x11, and it blue screens as soon as I get into windows. Ok, well that one wasn't that stable, load the 257x11 bank... that *also* blue screens... wtf, it'll run 32M Pi one time and blue screen with no load on the CPU another time? Something has to be flaky with this system... it's just not behaving consistantly. -Nate
  8. Looks like it was the slots that were the culprit. I had the memory in yellow.. tried moving to orange, and now I can almost (but not quite) pass 32M Pi at 260 x 11 (which is a lot better than blue screening 1 minute after booting into windows with no load). I'm going to double check your settings, 'cause I have a feeling I'm missing something. I can almost taste max overclock, but right now, 257x11 is the best I've gotten stable in 32M Pi (I know, I still need to run Prime 95.... but this setup has to be faster than this, it just has to be). -Nate
  9. Can't for the life of me get my CPU at all stable at 240x12, using 510-2 or 3/16. Even if I crank the volts on the CPU up to 1.67, I still get a blue screen within a minute or two of running super pi 32M. I don't know what's going on. I can get 255 x 11 going ok (2805), it passed 32M Pi at least. You would think that a mere 75 more MHz, with lower RAM speeds would be fine, but nooooo. Seeing what I can do about getting the x11 FSB up some more... I know 260 won't do it. Hell, I can't even get 260x10 to work... I think I have the worst performing Mushkin Redline 4000s in existance Anyway, going to step the FSB up slowly at x11 and see what happens. -Nate
  10. Yeah, I'm trying that... I had 240x12 1M Pi stable, but couldn't get 32M pi to go for more than a minute.... now I can't even get windows to stay running for more than a minute at those timings... sucky. However, the good news is that 250x11 ran prime 95 for 8 hours, so I have a nice starting place to work up from Of course, there's a 3700 in the database that is stable at those speeds, so I really hope I can get a decent increase over that (I did cough up the extra bucks for a faster CPU, right?). Tonight I'll see what differences I have from your setup... I know that for one, the BIOS is different, I'm using 510-2. Do you think I'd have a better chance on an older BIOS, 3/10 or 3/16 or something? -Nate
  11. Heh, I suppose I should look at what's on that CD. I just went to Smart Guardian's producer's website and grabbed a version off there. It's funny, I almost never install software/drivers off CD anymore, because they're almost always out of date. -Nate
  12. An odd thing happened... I installed a version of smartguardian (2.5), since I'd seen AG using it among others. Well, I had Speed Fan already installed, which is what I had been using to monitor temperatures, but I wanted to make sure that Speed Fan was getting the right temps, and Smart Guardian seemed to be the software of choice. Well, as soon as I started up SG, it displayed 71º C for my CPU temp, and Speed Fan immediately jumped to that temperature as well (from 40º... I was running prime 95). The weird thing is that even after I turned off Smart Guardian, Speed Fan continued to show 71º. 71º is a scary, scary number, so I shut down immediately, even though I was pretty sure it was just a software glitch. What version do you guys use to monitor your temps etc, and do you have a link? Also, is there any way that one of those software programs could jump my temps by 30º above prime 95 temps? -Nate
  13. After a lot of frustration, 250 x 11 (2750) is looking stable w/ 3.3v on RAM and 1.599 (1.3 x 123%) on CPU. I can't seem to get my Mushkin sticks to overclock well at all. At 260 x 10, I get blue screens even at 3.6V on the memory. That makes me sad. I know they're only rated at 250, but other people have been getting 270+ on these things. And yes, I have a fan pointed straight at them, so they're getting plenty of cool air over them. However, thanks to my 4000+ 12x multiplier, I can still get the most out of my CPU even with a piddling 250MHz FSB (250x12 is 3000... which I would be more than pleased with Waiting on 32M Pi to finish on 250x11, then I'm socking away these BIOS settings on Bank 1 and going to bed. (don't jinx it!) BTW, I LOVE the bios settings saving feature. Holy crap is that awesome. Whoever thought of that is a genius. -Nate
  14. Probably a BIOS problem. The BIOS that comes on these boards is butt. Like you, I couldn't even post if I went over 210. There's a bootable CD with all the BIOS revisions since the beginning of time, use it to get 510-3. Unfortunately I don't have a link to where it is, hopefully someone else will. It is recommended that you have at least a 480w power supply, though yours is probably just fine, since even two graphics cards and two hard drives are unlikely to come close to stressing 420w. That being said, the 600w you have coming will definitely be a good addition (assuming it's a decent brand). -Nate
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