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OceanSeasforMe

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Everything posted by OceanSeasforMe

  1. Activcate it now and in a worst case scenario (if your windows is legit) is that it will try to activate agaion and say "oh noes" and then you say "oh yeas" and it generates a number and you select your reigon and get a phone number and then you call the auto system and read the (40+code) and once its verified then you get an operator. I always (oops) tell them its an OEM disk and I just bought it and... (its true.) They give you a 20/30 digit code and you activate windows again and its all good. Unless you just want to, dont' bother to activate it. ________________________________________ Start with the sticky posts and read READ read. :EDIT: whoops, NM, uhm was not relevant. . As for the rest of it, the "step by step nf4 build " thread, follow it. http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread...15&page=1&pp=15 Check all your components for compatibility and do what the guides say. Best 0f luck
  2. Credit where credit is due ( I got out my manual and on page 15 it is listed.) http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread...ighlight=lights But I also didn't know it was there and depended on notes I took researching cause I spent a couple hours with the book and then tossed it aside after I was certain I had it all plugged in and jumperd correctly. Sorry to sidetrack your thread d3van. Get Zen with it and it will come to you in a moment of inspiration. Or As Ben franklin(?) said, invention is 95% perspiration and 5% inspiration. OR as I would put it. Anything worth suffering for has twice the sweet taste. Again, best of luck and I rebuilt in a full tower after a mid tower case pissed me off. Sounds like you are savvy, you might try the 27 (yes twenty seven) dollar case (FULL tower) as shown in the MODS threads. http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10860
  3. No beeps ? sys speaker is set to work onboard ? *(I hate them but they are usefull.) You didn't answer and so I will guess and I am a DFI newbie, but I know hardware fairly decent. It's not really pointing to the HD as the issue as I see it, but here are my HD tips. 1 Replace IDE cable. 40 pin 80 wire cables sometimes cause fits with "older" drives and a 40pin /40 wire IDE cable may make it work. (Then again it may not) 2 Set master slave jumpers to have the Master HD on the end & slave in the middle. 3 Download diagnostic software for your drive and test it in another PC ! This is what I use to test most everything and probably your drive is included. http://ubcd.sourceforge.net/ I ran the DVD on IDE 1 for installs and then switched it to IDE2 (master) and plugged an older IDE/ IBM deskstar in as IDE 1 master and it only hiccuped once before recognizing it. (actually another issue and I replaced the yellow SATA cables to fix that and I am on the DFI yellow rounded IDE cables on that HD) (Its an 80 wire) From the notes I took to make this build work. *(dont have the link but it came from this page.) If I had the beep codes handy I would post them also. 4 lights - system start up 3 lights - CPU detected 2 lights - DRAM detected 1 light - VGA detected 0 lights - system boot.... best of luck with it, I read it as its not seeing the vCard from what I read. Might try reseating it.
  4. Sweet, it survived 8 hours 1 minute 36 seconds running sp2004 with BLEND chosen an test option. *(have to edit pics n' post lata, just woke up.) Temps show at 35 41 40 under load, but I am suspicious that they are low by 5 or 10 degrees or so from my reading here. "monitoring" software is a "Guide" not a "definative" statistic. Cool and thanks for the reccomendation. Even though its a different processor (this is a northwood 478 and I wanted to match it so I had a Spare processor "just in case") I will end up with the nf3 250gb board as recommended when I pull the trigger on another build. This is Fun as hades, but more addictive than crack. I have the cash but I am trying to hold off till I see if the current setup likes the corsair Value Ram. So far it has memtested, Prime 95 and sp2004'd with flying colors at stock and I am optimistic. Somewhere late last night on the main amd/64 forum I saw a newbie post about a Venice core /Corsair Value ram combo and in one of the replies, I saw where Corsair used batches of controlers/chipsets and that a variety of combos were possible. So far,I think I got one of the good sets. Now I just have to figure out what the heck it is as far as UTT /bh5 etc. I initialy researched on it with no success but if Any of my (new) tools show it, Iwill find it once I get my Errands done and try to finalize its setup today. I have CPUZ,Everest,Sandra,Aquamrk3d,ITEsguard,Bench32,Sp200,Prime95 on it so hopefully one of them will offer some insight if I can slow down enough to read it thouroughly. Bios still only has just enough basic changes to achieve setup. (raid etc) No voltages /timeings or tweaks have been made and it is rock solid so far. I plan to install some games this afternoon and see if I can get it to crash under load. (And I will jack a bunch of crap into the usb ports for a real world scenario emulatio.) This is scary, I wired 4 USB's and 1 1394 to the front panel directly off the mobo also. This makes it have ten USB's three 1394's and 1 joystick port jumped to the sound card. Still debating if I want to install the custom nf4 version of the MBM5 program (in apost here) and set it up or just run with ITE/SG. I dont see a reason to as of now, but if I missed something overt, then throw me a bone, I put my time in researching and reading and its all a blurr atm. OF course I augment the blurr whenever possible like all good pirates do. Yo ho ho and a botle of rum. Arrr a shot of grog would be nice but I have to much stuff to do as of yet today. My sig is cheesetastic, and I am still debating as to whether to replace my text sig with it. (mental note to self, earn toaster sig and change some of the colors.)
  5. Almost bought a lian li but opted for the CM stacker to replace a mid sized thermaltake tsunami case I was building in because it got crowded. (imho) I personally also like Thermaltakes as I have built in them before BUT the *(hardcano) fan control units are a pain to wire and unless you are just a glutton for punishment or super tech savy I would skip on a fan controller if its your first build. (just check the model of the thermaltake case for fan control units if thats your route.) The best instructions I found for hooking them up were on their support page faq as a result of user requests / confusion. *(yea sounds familiar, but its not me I swear the wireing diagram shipped with the XaserV case left much to be desired in the way of details.) A big plus for me was that the CM stacker has room to grow and can hold 2 Power supplies. *(Very cool and plan to toss a 200/300 watt PS in the bottom and make it an Aux Sys fan only PS if the systems power needs grow. Heck with another PS and a casefull of fans, it might make its own weather pattern.......
  6. Bumpo for progress, I trashed the (as shipped) yellow SATA cables and used a Heavy duty set I had gathering dust and my intermittent stuck at "detecting array" problems went away. I let windoze reinstall its USB 2.0 after removing ALL usb's in the control panel after the Nvida install snuck them by me. (user error Dooh !~) All device drivers now accounted for in device manager. The 120 gig HD is now plugged in on IDE 1 and only hung once on the first boot and now its booting Fine to the Raid with the IBM as a master on IDE1. *(thank heavens its one of those nasty HD's with 5 zillion dual Jumper combos and its not something I wanted to deduce through trial and error. ) No great screenies yet and forgot to snab a good digital from work today. It came out nice except my wires arent quite as tidy as they should be. (still scared to zip tie it alltogther just yet.) So far, all systems green. This PC in the sig goes to the boss and provided it stays semi stable I dont have to eat the MOBO. No biggie, I have priced out a couple competitors boards and worst case scenario, I get a better DFI board and slap another board in the system. *(Boss is actually very PC savvy and has a XP copy running continously for 2 years without crash and has a full screen of installed programs under all programs (75+ programs.)) I actually bought a legit copy of Acronis to try make sure and have some data preservation /backups in case the machine hiccups. Another month and I will have the cash for another DFI build. Thinking of an agp 8x cause I have a couple of 8x cards and an extra mid sized case. I also have a 2 decent 20 pin PS's at 400 + watts so a non 24 pin board would save me some loot also. This PC is socket 478 and I will match it so I have spares. The DFI 875 board series is what I am looking at for personal overclocking experiments, but I will research it better when that time comes. *(I want a toaster sig now....) ok, off to the other table and more testing. Yeee haaa... errrrrr, ARRRRRRRRRR ~!
  7. I use the old "If you need an adapter to plug it in" Dont hot swap it motto. Mice adaptors USB to ps2, ect, would be a good candidate to whammy a board when hot swapped. Other than that, I haven't personally ever killed anything hot swapping but I always try to keep it to a minimum.
  8. Floppy light stays on permanently ? Flip the cord at the floppy, its plugged in backwards. Bios is its own beast. Choose your method, read carefully the destructions, cross your fingers and go for it. *(see sticky posts for official methods)
  9. Wow this is like sharks with lazer beams ! (joke) I just took a few screenshots of the new Raid 0 setup and it looks about average. (but still fast as hades.) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/InK...TAchometer2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/InK...TAchometer1.jpg Just found a copy of ATTO and when reinstall is done, I should have more stuff to compare against the rest of the stats posted.
  10. Cool, your on the right track and its a small detail, but you will get it figured out. In your arsenal, you need a cheap electrical tester from an automotive/hardware store for about 20-30 bucks. You plug it into the PS ends and can check your stability /current off the feeds. (For instance on a Black and Red from a 4 pin molex (plugs into a CDrom ) you should read 5.0 volts or approximately close measure. If it swings wild 4.9 4.5 4.7 5.0 5.3 then its suspect. If one rail, say your 12 V is at 11.0 then longerm the sys is going to kill hardware or hard drives, etc with bad power. Same thing goes with your other wires, you just use the tester to find the circuts on a cheapo system *(first) and if you are not sure, then look it up in the maunfacturers Diagrams. It sounds more like your memory is suspect and getting stable memory is imperative to prevent the BSOD's when installing. Memtest will tell you if its stable enough to get an install.
  11. The good news is that the final build is built and it has a new home in a stacker case. So far so good, I got it swapped from the other case yesterday and while I was at it I redid the NF4 and CPU seatings with Arctic Silver Ceramique. On the way I dremmeld the Video card and I have about 2 cm of clearance now. (Much more than I planned for.) Only took 2 mods to make the Stacker case comply. (one for PSU/fan bracket and one for the Kargen module and the rear fan. I guess I have another install for this evening to get it all right as I lost a Lan on the way in cause I didnt follow the exact load seqence on the chipset drivers. (impatiance costs me again.) Anyway, Bios is 100 % stock other than mandatory (raid / boot) settings and I pass memtest with no errors and I left it to cook at 100% cpu on prime 95 last night to set up the thermal compound. Paint thinner on a Q tip works wonders to pull the adhesive off the DFI chipset fan. (I washed it with Alcohol soaked Qtips to remove any residual thinner.) So here it is this morning when I woke up about 20 or so seconds after I shut Prime down. 24 34 38 on air in 64 cool degrees of AC with the case totally open. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/InK...ato/newTemp.jpg 6 hour torture test at 100% cpu time and 0 errors. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/InK...ato/newwall.jpg I am tempted to let it be and not break it. DO I really need to tweak any further ? I will read and find something that is "wrong" and fix it and break it probably. Well, all computers are fixable, just takes a better technician. guess I will grab the USB pen and get some BIOS screen shots and bring them to this PC and start compareing and (ugh) researching. One more day off (possibly ) then 2 weeks straight, but I wouldnt trade it for the world. Thanks again and my next board will be a DFI board. ARRRRRRRRRRRR, cause I am a pirate.
  12. Ok, I am new to DFI, but my first inclination would be to yank the Cmos and test it and see if it was 3.01 (at least) and be careful as you have about a 3 -5 sercnd window before you lose your current bios settings usually. (swap one out that you have pre tested then check the one thaty just came out of the machine. ) That is a longshot, but its a possibility. Also is that XP W / SP1 or SP2 ? if it was sp1, it would be the most likely culprit for causing the errors. Also have you run memtest & prime 95 and verified that your system/memory timings are ok as it could be memory errors causeing the install to fail. Was the HD ever part of an array or has it had a sucessfull install on it before ? Western Digital has pretty good diagnostics tools for their stuff and you can Dload. western - Ultra ATA Manager (Western Digital) - http://support.wdc.com/download/ - web page (html) - Western Digital's Data Lifeguard - http://support.wdc.com/download/ - web page (html) WD Programs I use culled from the disk I use. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/archiv...hp/t-31591.html OH also test your Power supply, it might be throwing bad juice and or a low amt of juice at a critical moment. (you can tell I have worked on too many crap machines in my life....)
  13. Depends on the server setup and the admin. For instance if you use the Krrios client, it looks like a speedkack (it is really) and the server software might be seeing your client as frameskipping and autobooting you. The AOS client was always showing on the server as a speedhack and generally sucks so dont use it either. (I was a counselor on a freeshard for about a year or so.) Anyway, Run uo forums have some serious UO players / programmers. A quick search has similar threads but no firm answer (just stuff to try.) http://www.runuo.com/forum/search.php?searchid=691863 Best of luck and PK a few for me. If you haven't already, ask at Runuo if you cant find it on a search.
  14. Novus opiate ? wtf man ? what shard ? I was on freeshards/ the WTF shard untill I finally broke myself of the addiction. Are you useing UOgateway or Razor or a UO client to access the shards ? What is the error message ? It may be that your ISP is dropping /resetting your connection and a Traceroute/(uoTrace) will tell you if you are getting timeouts/drops/disconnects from bad routeing. Send a copy of your traceroute to your ISP and tell them you want a better ping and a lot of times they will help you if you pester them.... So is the emu that is dropping a POL or Sphere or RunUO ? May be some known software issues within the EMU's dev page that may help you figure it out. We played when UO was new and Ronald McDonald was king of the PK's.
  15. Read, read, read the sticky posts and all you can find about what you want as a setup. built it right once, I am rebuilding the PC in sig with a full tower. You should have lotsa cables, otherwise, if ya like yellar, the mobo should have it included, but all stock cables are to be reguarded as fragile and treated with care. If not then 3 or 5 bucks will order your cable of preference for IDE/sarta. don't get in a hurry, I built a hundred or so PC's and it caught me paying attention. Again the sticky posts in each forum (and the how to build anb NF$ board on page 3 or 4 ) are exellent. Fix your sig to have your rig as in User CP and these DFI guys are great help. (just amongst the winds atm.))0
  16. Monty Python jokes for teh win ! srsly, it can't be true, but if it passes the snopes test then its legit. http://www.snopes.com/ http://www.snopes.com/humor/iftrue/lionmidget.asp Btw, Snopes says NO the story is tripe and a falsehood.
  17. Roger Roger...... Surf, divine, ascertain. Nothing shall ellude the willing mind. better than an allusion.
  18. The primary on any cable is the last plug in. Set that device to master and any other devices on the same stripe/IDE cable as secondary /slave.
  19. And the ghosts of those who inhabited Rome smile upon those who seek their fame. Wow, beat the heck out of Hemmingways bullfights.
  20. I wished I had botherd to take pics of some of the nasty computers I have opend up over time. Fully half the people here who own computers have no concept of dust and its usually critical before it ever becomes known the them. One PC I saw, I thought a Cat lived in, and the cat was snow white and so was the inside of the computer. I decided the thermaltake Tsunami case (MID) is too small so I just pulled the trigger on the CM stacker in order to get a full sized case. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16811119039 As opposed to getting this as this was the # 2 choice I made 0n a lian li case. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...-112-508&depa=0 In the mods section I found a 27 buck server casehttp://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10860, but I already plan to move my current board into the Tsunami in the sig and use my current server case for another DFI build so I dont really need it. This PC has an Intel D875pbz mobo with a 2.6 Intel processor and a gig of Kingston (value) and radeon9200se and its going to get put in the new Tsunami dream case.
  21. When SP2 came out and I was working at the computer shop (I do that about 6 months a year when my regular job is out of season) I saw plenty of machines go haywire and wacky with samsung CD/DVD's and SP2. I rolled back at least 20 or 30 machines to SP1 and it was back to normal operations. From what I have read sp2 seems mandatory for DFI boards and so I would switch to a plain CD rom and try.
  22. Well, I have recieved the AS/ceramique and I am unhappy with my Vcard/chipset fan clearance and so I plan to dremel/nibble the Vcard a bit and re do the chipset while I am at it. (paper drags as it passes between them and a buisness card wont pass at all.) I plan on temporarily building outside the case as I am modding the case also. (This will be the one board I have botherd to follow directions on ever.......) Currently, I have it set in raid 1 and I am going to go to Raid 0 and back it up with an IDE IBM deskstar 120 gig as a non booting drive. *(EDIT) Because my research has indicated that if a drive is lost the OS is not recoverable/bootable as a single drive so raid 1 is useless.) I just read (here) again about issues with drive overlays and I think I will go get the newest Nvida Raid drivers,*( and I used the ones in the mobo box, but hey it runs like a champ in raid 1 and it is rock solid stable with stock settings.) Overlays, blarg ! I think I will format the pair of drives in a fake install, then reboot and try to clear/break the array before dissasembly. (And of course, since i am following directions, I will use the setup guide on AG's page as well as what I find here.) Is this good approach or did I miss something overt ? If you want to reply, fine, no biggie, I will and do put time in here to figure it out if neccessary. (And hopefully you dont hear a lot from me tomorrow....) And thanks DFI and DFI street, you know I am ruined now and addicted to tech at an even deepr level than before. I have always leaned twords hardware stuffs, and this board is at spinal tap level. "it goes to eleven." In about four months, I am going to drop some serious coinage on another DFI mobo/setup and do it right this time.
  23. 804 is not taken according to the search this thread function. I lay claim to it.
  24. Its an Armadillo. http://tonova.typepad.com/thesuddencurve/armadillo.jpg The captioned version always gets a chuckle out of me also. So the one blonde see's another blonde rowing a boat in the middle of a cornfield and jams on the brakes and leans out the car and holllers. "Hey! If I could swim out there, I would kick your butt... You are giving us blondes a bad reputation."
  25. I have three or four On / off switches that i have saved from old cases and I have electrical tape on them to keep them from getting the wires bent /broken at the switch. If you have one you can salvage, grab it or check with a pc shop and the tech will have one. Check the mobo manual and logic out the on off pins and plug in and turn it on/off and bypass the case's on /off switch. As noted above, anything led is not power but always lights. (well, supposed to be anyway. I have seen bad/wrong labels and so I always use my salvaged switch to jump past the stock case wireing in the beginning.) EDIT : depending on the model, take the front off the case and you should still see a tiny switch (beige) with a black post. unless your whole swich went kabloey, then your case button broke and not the physical switch wired to the system. Alternatively you can reach inside the case and pinch the two prongs holding it and remove it. *( a lot easier with the front off)
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