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killerjay_47

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Everything posted by killerjay_47

  1. I will concur with the others in saying that Corsair Value Select is not the greatest in combination with these boards. I will say, however, that you shouldn't have trouble getting it stable with the most relaxed settings possible. Unless you killed it, it should work. My settings to get RAM stability are in my sig. The rest are on auto. If you are having problems with the memory, try using them. I haven't yet tried tweaking back into more aggressive settings, performance-wise. I would like them to run at 1T or maybe with bank interleave enabled... but this is the most stable I've been with this combination. I would check out the video card first though. Good luck. J
  2. DAGF is the lower-end NF4 motherboard made by DFI. Sounds like diamond flash image is pointing you in the wrong direction. I don't think you can use that BIOS on an Ultra-D. The boot disk saying starting Windows 98 is fine. Windows 98 is the last of the DOS based Windows. It's just booting the DOS part, which is what you want, I believe. I personally use the bootable CD available in the BIOS Factory (which is hidden in this forum somewhere, but I'm too lazy to find the link for ya. just search). J
  3. Personally, I would stay away from the 64-bit operating system until it's been out there for a while and there are enough drivers and programs that take advantage of it before jumping up. It is my personal opinion, based on my experience with the board, that you should be able to get it stable. It may take a fair bit of work, as mine did. I've had it for about 2 months now and I finally got it stable last weekend (mind you, I wasn't working on it every day). Of course, I also skimped on the RAM and that's what's at fault in my machine. EDIT: This was my first build from scratch. Before that, I had done some minor upgrades to a pre-built machine. /EDIT With enough time, you should have a stable computer capable of doing what you want. Question is, are you patient enough and do you have the time? Good luck either way. J
  4. There should be four power connections from the PSU to the motherboard. If you do not have all four connected, you are asking for trouble. They are: 24 pin, 4 pin 12V (square), 4 pin molex (hdd/cd-rom) and 4 pin floppy. 4 red lights means not detecting cpu... if I remember correctly. Can you verify the cpu in another motherboard or a friend's computer or something? G'luck. J
  5. Not to sour you to that memory... but there have been some reports of people having cold boot issues and/or memory death with it. You may want to find the thread about these issues. Having said that, there are other people out there who are running just fine with this memory and are enjoying it very much. I just thought you might like to know as much as you can before you click the "Confirm Order" button. J
  6. [OFF TOPIC] I'd be willing to bet that SATA will be going or gone in 20 years too... fairly good chance by then that things will be going optical for data transfer. How long has PATA been around in the mainstream now that it's being phased out? [/OFF TOPIC]
  7. 11 Years ahead of its time, here is the latest innovation from Microsoft: BEHOLD THE RED SCREEN OF DEATH! They originally said that it was going to be introduced in 2016 but it's in the Longhorn beta. Apparently it's not easy to make it do this but it's there to tell you you did something real bad. Cheers. J
  8. I have the same case as you. When I was doing the cable management, I tucked most of the excess power supply cable up behind the 5.25 drive frame. What was too awkward or too big to fit there, I coiled into the spare 5.25 drive bays. I also used tie-wraps to keep everything in line and tidy. My IDE cables got tucked away inside the 5.25 drive frame as well. Sata cable was kinda hanging there in the middle, but I arranged it so it was neat and it's so small that its effect on cooling is negligible. Far as the front panel is concerned, most of that I coiled behind the hard drive enclosure. Curious, what did they do with the duct on the side panel that is supposed to line up with your HSF? On these boards it obviously doesn't, because of the relocated CPU socket and RAM layout on the board. Mine is just kinda hanging there, close to the HSF but not right over top of it. J
  9. An update to my situation... I haven't had a cold boot issue in the recent past... probably been about 2 weeks since the last one. I don't remember doing anything special to fix it... My voltages are still the same and everything else is at auto still. The only problem now is that I can't get my memory stable. I still get a few errors in test 5 in memtest. 6 errors in 14 passes last time I did it with both sticks in. And as a result of my instability, I get the occasional BSOD in Windows. Something like 3 or 4 times a week. As soon as I have a chance, I'm gonna flash up to the 3-10 bios and see what we get.
  10. One's an exe... the other a zip. The exe creates a floppy that you flash with. The zip is just the .bin file that you would have to use the awardflash program to flash. Read the BIOS sticky for info on how to do that.
  11. I dunno exactly what you got (make a signature with your specs) but I can tell ya right now that Value Select is not working very nicely for me. I'm getting the cold boot issue mentioned in a couple of the active threads as well as the sticky. Recently, my memtest came back and told me that I had six errors on 14 passes of the whole loop, all in test 5, two each in passes 0, 7, and 12. Odd that 5 would cause problems but not 8. But I digress. Corsair Value Select is not that much fun for me so far. Too random as to what you're getting. J
  12. Funny, it shows up on the SLI-DR page but not the Ultra-D. I checked not two hours ago... made a daily habit of that since Rgone said it was coming soon. It's the same bios for both MBs though, right? Thanks, J
  13. True enough. Most people aren't aware that the static shock you get after rubbing your socks on the carpet and then grabbing the doorknob can be tens of thousands of volts. Which is why static discharge can be lethal to your computer, even at tiny currents (which is what a static discharge is, huge voltage and tiny current). (That's for the noobs, not you david.)
  14. With my rig as in my sig, at everything stock except VDIMM at 2.9V for stability I got somewhere in 6400 range... I can't remember exactly. Not bad, I thought, for a workstation graphics card and cheap RAM. My Dad thought it looked choppy. J
  15. Your hardware will almost never cause your CPU usage to increase. It is almost certainly software in nature. What process is using the CPU? You can check in task manager in the processes tab by clicking on the CPU column header twice to order it from greatest to least. J
  16. If you stuck an ammeter (the DMM measuring current) across the poles of a 120V AC line in you house, you've created a direct short. As a result, there is infinitely small resistance and infinitely large current will want to flow. Ohm's law, simple relationship. I = V / R, where I is current (engineering standard symbol), V is voltage, and R is resistance. The internal resistance of your DMM on current setting is somewhere in the range of maybe 2 ohms, and the wires in the house maybe half an ohm, depending on their length. Therefore, to approximate, you have I = V/R = 120/2.5 = 48Amps. However, you'd likely burn the 10A fuse in most DMMs first, or pop the home fuse/circuit breaker. If neither of the above happen, you'd likely start a fire cause the wires in the wall and especially the wires in your DMM will heat up due to carrying so much current. I have no idea where you measured 11mA but if that's the case, how do you power your computer? If it has a 600W power supply, then it's probably running at an average of 500W or so, depending on your hardware. Power is equalled to current times voltage. So you have a maximum input of 120v*.011A = 1.32W. Definitely not enough to power a computer that consumes 500W. Accounting for inefficiency in the PSU, the wall plug is probably supplying about 4.5A for your computer at 500W. Go figure. Hope everyone enjoys a simple lesson in electricity. J
  17. Have you tested your memory for stability using memtest? That's where I would start. You may also want to flash up to the 3-10 bios because there is a minor bug or two in the 1-25 (the shipping bios). J
  18. I think it has been made fairly clear (and is a matter of common sense, in my mind, but there is nothing common about common sense) that it is going to take time to resolve these issues. As good as these guys are, it's going to take probably a few weeks or more for a solution to be offered. The engineers have to do a bunch of testing and reproduce the problem in the lab before they can even begin to work at a solution. It's only been a week or two since OzSnoal's brilliant piece of work to narrow the focus of the investigation, and as we can see above, the users' boards that are going to become test subjects haven't been sent to the lab in Taiwan yet. The guys on the front lines (AG and RG) can't do a whole lot right now, since they didn't design the board and (far as I'm aware) don't write BIOS code for it. The guys behind the scenes in Taiwan are doing their best (I'm sure) to find a solution. I urge patience to those who post every few days asking for a solution. I want it too, but you can't expect an overnight fix. If the fix is going to last, it has to be tested and it has to work. Otherwise you'll get a piece of crap that fixes the one problem only to introduce three others that are much worse. I want a solution as badly as anyone out there. My reputation is riding on it, in the eyes of my father. The rig I built is his. He very blatantly asked me why the $3000 rig I built for him is better than a $1500 HP from Future Shop (Canadian electronics retailer, FYI). I explained that he had some of the best parts on the market and that it was going to be more reliable and much faster than the generic junk (and yes, you can call me on the RAM, I know). I want nothing more than to make his computer what I told him it was going to be. However, I want a solution that is going to work. I want a solution that Oskar KNOWS is going to work. Therefore, I will wait for that solution to come. And I won't post every three days saying "Is it done yet? Is there a fix yet? Is anyone working on it?" Ok, I've ranted that on to death. Please people, have a little patience. And let the people who have relevant material to post fill these pages with enlightenment. So I'm done now. J P.S. Not meant to be a personal attack on anyone... I just want the irrelevant posts to be kept to a minimum.
  19. One would think that there should be something that can be done to rework the BIOS to set the voltages correctly and early enough... I highly doubt that a hardware mod is the right answer in this case. Unfortunately I'm not yet into writing that kind of software/firmware yet so I'm over my head. Still got two and a half years of Engineering degree to go. Oscar seems to be the man of choice for this job. J
  20. Thanks babyelf. Those were the numbers I was looking for. Probably pick up a dual channel set fairly soon... gotta get out of the Corsair crap... bad decision that was. Anybody know a good Canadian retailer that carries this stuff? NCIX doesn't seem to have this particular stuff with the Winbond chips. Thanks, J
  21. I'm having similar issues to the ones other people are describing regarding the no post on cold boot and the black screen right after the startup routine is supposed to pass over to the OS. My VDIMM is set to 2.9V right now. Unfortunately I cannot test to see if the same problem exists with the voltages defaulting to 2.7V on my board, because it's halfway across the country. I can, however, offer the following: I attempted to boot with default settings using just one of my sticks, and got the black screen once and was able to get into the OS the second time. When I go into the BIOS and set the voltages to what I need in order to pass memtest, then I have the no-post issues where it just sits there telling me that my processor is an Athlon 64 3200+ and to press DEL to enter setup which it ignores. I do not know if any of this information is helpful but it sorta sounds to me like the same problems other people have been having and adds fuel to the fire. I also don't know if 0.2V is enough to cause problems, but I do know that it is enough to get my memory stable in memtest. My next move was to flash the BIOS up to 310 and see where that gets me... in the meantime, good luck in tracking this problem down and finding a solution. Many thanks to OzSnoal for his fine detective work, keep it up! Watching and waiting (sorry I can't be more helpful), J
  22. I'm curious if anyone besides anandtech has tried this memory yet: OCZ Dual Channel Value Series PC3200 1GB (2x512MB) 400MHz OCZ4001024WV3DC-K (Winbond) I read their review and they claim it is very nearly as good as the OCZ VX after testing on an SLI-DR board. They say the only real difference between it and the real VX is that it isn't binned and tested at DDR500 2-2-2 speed, so there's no guarantee of its performance. First off, what is meant by "binning" the RAM? Second, how reliable would this stuff be for a moderately overclocked system? Thirdly, is it true that it nearly measures up to the VX like anandtech raves about in this article? I know that anything VALUE is supposed to be avoided as a general rule... I'm just curious if this stuff measures up to the VX, which I understand to be a fairly reliable and decent memory for these mobos. Props to OzSnoal over in the other thread about the VDIMM issues and the cold boot problems. Hoping this brings about a resolution. I'd test my rig but I'm halfway across the country from it right now. Thanks, J
  23. Problem with flashing the bios is that I'm halfway across the country from my Dad right now and won't be back until probably Xmas. I could talk him through it over the phone... that's how we get everything else done. But flashing the bios is so much more delicate a procedure that I wouldn't like to do it that way if I didn't have to. He is sort of up and running again for now, so I'm a little bit off the hook for the time being, but I suspect that there will be problems in the future, since the settings are the same as they were when I initially set it up.
  24. UPDATE: Finished memtest on both sticks individually, 6+ passes on each, no errors. Put both back in together and now it seems to work just fine, boots normally, can shut down and restart without trouble. I'm still going to pursue some alternate memory. These are the three I've found that fit the price range: 1. OCZ EL GOLD PC3200 1GB 2X512MB DDR 184PIN CL2-2-2-5 DUAL CHANNEL MEMORY KIT W/ HEAT SPREADER 2. OCZ EL PC3200 400MHZ DDR 1024MB DUAL CHANNEL GOLD VX MEMORY KIT 2X512MB CL-2-3-3-8 184PIN 3. OCZ DUAL CHANNEL OPTIMIZED PLATINUM 2X512MB DDR PC3200 CL2-3-2-5 HEAT SPREADER I'm also wondering what people think of the Corsair TWINX series. I'd be getting one of the 2x512MB kits, of course. Thanks, J
  25. This is hte computer I built for my Dad a month ago. I would like to hear from someone who has had cold boot issues with value RAM of some sort who has replaced the RAM with something that works better. I want to be sure that it is the RAM that is at fault in my system before I go spending money to replace it. The issue: Whenever the computer is shut down, it refuses to post when restarted. It has been getting worse. Up until recently, I was able to get it back running by resetting the BIOS and then reloading the settings. What it does is when the computer is restarted, is comes up to the post screen, but before it does the memory test or anything, it displays the line Main Processor: AMD Athlon 3200+....... and then it just sits there. Resetting the BIOS lets me get into the BIOS settings to load my settings. The Value Select doesn't run at stock, but I was able to get it stable using 2.90V on the DRAM Voltage, and it was passing memtest with no problems. Got the whole system installed fine, no issues. That was a month ago. Two weeks ago, it began having the cold boot issues. So I was limping by, using the "reset the BIOS whenever it fails" approach, which would allow me to reload my settings and then it would be fine. But this last time, after reloading my settings several times, it still won't let me in. As soon as I put my settings in, it goes straight back into the frozen mode with the processor line and sits there. I can't get back into the OS, and I have to reset the BIOS in order to get into the BIOS settings. Could there be a setting that I'm screwing up or is there some other solution to this problem? -- Update: Right after I typed all this up but before I could hit the submit button my Dad called and we tried a few more things. We had it booting using defaults on one stick in DIMM2. Then we tried memtest86 on that and got tons of errors. Upped voltages back to what I had before, it was memtesting away with no errors when I last talked to Dad. Going to let it go for a while, then try the other stick. Long distance bills through the roof. -- Also... looking at other RAM. Could someone define UTT and TCCD and explain which is better and why? I was looking at OCZ EL Gold VX PC3200 Dual Channel Kit or OCZ Dual Channel Optimized Platinum PC3200. Both are around the same price. Which goes better? Further, since I think I'm locked into the Corsair thing unless they just refund me, I was wondering what people think of TWINX1024-3200C2? Thanks. I know it's kinda long. 'Preciate you reading this far. J
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